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kruginmi

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  1. kruginmi
    What about working plumbing? Do we get that also? (Once you see such detail, you have to ask.....). Ho Ho Ho, Mark
  2. kruginmi
    Thanks for all the looks and likes! This evening success breads motivation. So....I continued on with the population of the main yard arm: cleats and boom irons. I had thought long and hard about the stunsl booms. Carrying on the theme of the main mast I decided to try using black paper and mini-dowels for the irons holding them onto the main yard. I don't think they turned out too bad. Taking a step back I am definitely ready for that topmast yard. Mark
  3. kruginmi
    Before the Christmas parties at the house wanted to be able to show the model in its basic form so I moved onto the main yard arm: I used the process outlined in TFFM and don't think I will go back to dowels ever again. A lot easier to get the center 8 sided portion and tapering / rounding the remainder really isn't that bad a process. I still have the cleats and some final shaping but this week I aim for the topyard and topgallant yard rough ins. You can probably guess I have 'pinned' the yard to the mast. This ship will use a truss so all will be hidden. Ho Ho Ho, Mark
  4. kruginmi
    This is a resounding YES - the admiral is the wife. (also the head of the procurement board)
  5. kruginmi
    Tom, a point to consider. With my Druid I faced the same dilemma in space. I ended up doing an admiralty model first which is still movable and did find a space in the house. I am now working on a cross section containing the main mast which could sit on a mantle. I still will handle 71 types of lines and require 142 blocks. I am scratching the itch for me and making consideration for the admiral. Mark
  6. kruginmi
    You have been busy! Very neat and clean. It is interesting how order emerges from the chaos. (and for my part usually descends into chaos again). Looks like you are truly understanding the runs of the rigging. The axiom I follow is to understand the why of the rigging. If you know the purpose of each line, your decisions on how to place will be correct. Keep it up, Mark
  7. kruginmi
    Sanity Check time..... I received my order of blocks for the Syren Ship Modeling Company and they were fantastic....but they stopped me in my tracks. (don't tell the kids, these are my Christmas presents from them) Accurate scaling is a big issue, especially with regards to rigging. Previously I have done kits and my base impressions in sizing are from those. Looking at the 6" blocks scaled down to 1/8" showed my brain had not wrapped itself around this correctly. There was NO way the rigging cord I had chosen would fit into that. I used a rigging sizing chart from Chuck and added some snips of line I had available that was sized and made the following rigging sizing tool (note: line not from Chuck). My goal is to have at least 3 if not 4 different line thicknesses. This showed that the rigging I had selected was more in the 5" scale sizing, not the 2" needed for those small blocks. Well now I know and can make some adjustments before rework is required. I did place the acquired blocks on some 1/48 scale pics in the TFFM and they fit great so my math isn't wrong. My purchasing requirements had been: I have decided that instead of combining the 5,6, and 7" blocks into the 1/8" scale, I am only going to use the 5 and 6". I do have enough 3/16" blocks to cover all the 7, 8 and 9" so that is good. The education of Krug, mark P.S THANK YOU CHUCK!
  8. kruginmi
    That is an awesome back story. The current view looks great and I will look forward to your pictures of progress! Mark
  9. kruginmi
    I guess the question hinges on whether you use slings or trusses. With trusses , pinning is fine. I do agree most would never know the difference, so do what you want! Mark
  10. kruginmi
    That is wonderful to hear about the craft store acrylics. That is what I have in house for my testing. Gives me hope! Mark
  11. kruginmi
    Good and timely topic. I am looking to do the same on my build. I have picked up water based sanding sealer and a water based top coat to protect all. I still need to create some samples and see how it turns out. Sometime over the next couple of weeks. Mark
  12. kruginmi
    Understand what you are saying, I think we have all been there. A note of caution: continually re-doing items does not a finished project make. You have to decide what is good enough. Your skills will improve and by the time you are coming close to being done you will look at the early stages and probably see how you could do much better. It was hard for me but I force myself to keep moving forward (most of the times). I call my finished ships the evolution of Krug. I can definitely pick the order but few others can. Looking great and my compliments on overcoming adversary. Keep the pics coming! Mark
  13. kruginmi
    It is hard to give a hard answer, but I would venture in the 8-10 age group (and plastic). I gave him flush clippers instead of a knife but still needed to be coaxed through how to use them. Also gluing is an ordeal. We spent some time talking about clamping and waiting for things to dry. He really enjoys the application of the decals and after showing him one or two times he took off. I think the hardest part is refraining from jumping in and taking over. There is definitely an ebb and flow (as this build shows) but he proudly shows his friends his completed models on his dresser. I have made a simple put the dowel into the boat shaped 2-D cut out for my five year old.... Anything to keep them off of digital stuff..... Mark
  14. kruginmi
    Congratulations on passing that milestone! I really like the color contrast between the shroud lines and the ratlines themselves. Starting to get a little busy in-board for those fingers, good luck on the next phase! Mark
  15. kruginmi
    Great stuff. I enjoy reading about such builds. Almost gives me the push to try one (I say 'almost' so far). Keep the pics coming Daniel! mark
  16. kruginmi
    I like roughing in as much as possible to make sure everything lines up and is accounted for - avoid the uh-oh moments when you can't do anything about it. So before continuing on with the planking I wanted to verify the run of the mast and pumps foremost. The plans show the rake of the mast and the pump locations at the gundeck level, so first is to figure that out. The pumps foremost, and mast are on an angle so just duplicating the gundeck position would not work. This is not 'true' build practice, but is very worthwhile. I get model 1:1 templates and insure everything is good to go. My inclination is to replicate the look of true practice on top of the templates made and I would be the only one wise. The pumps are not the final ones, but are smaller diameter ones just for this exercise. The final ones will be octagonal. Next up is defining all the carlings to lock in deck beam spacings so the knees can be started. The hope is to build the decks removable until I decide to lock them in. I also might be 'forced' to rough in the main yard..... I beg forgiveness on yet another status overview: Mark
  17. kruginmi
    Actually pulled the hull out of mouthballs for the next step, main section of the mast step. A thicker piece of wood with several distinct angles and cuts. I first templated it out with an index card before cutting. Truth be told, it took three attempts to get everything right. I didn't waste too much wood since I had only cut the mating edge, so resetting was simply cutting a new mating edge slightly above the failed attempt. The square cut was achieved as shown above for the mast top shroud cut outs. At the end it was very satisfying to almost click this piece into place - no glue necessary at least for now. I also cut the tenon into the mast bottom and likewise a nice tight fit, allowing it to stand without other assistance. This weekend I will add the positional wedges and the fixed bar. This is different from what I used on the the full Druid but I consider it much more realistic. I need to figure out the well and if I am going to keep anything open to view. It would be a shame to keep all of this hidden. Mark
  18. kruginmi
    Love to see the creative process. I can only think of what the sausages I call my fingers would do on a similar project. A whole different set of problems and solutions. Keep the pics coming! Mark
  19. kruginmi
    And the saga continues.... Next up is to cut the 'square' holes for the top mast shrouds to come through the top. Cutting a square hole in basswood is not straight forward. The wood is softer so keeping crisp edges is harder. It is possible though with a little 'trickery.' Instead of drilling out and then hacking away praying for a good result, I outline where the squares need to be and use my sled on the table saw to cut out three sides of the square. I then cut out a replacement piece for the missing side and slide into place. I have the wire that will be used for the shrouds so used this as a spacer. Then with a little sanding everything ends up ship shape and perfect. Square internal holes in basswood. You might also noticed I added some trunnels through the top into the trestle trees to accurately locate the top each time I put it on. It is also important before drilling the holes for the blocks under the top that you make sure you know where the supports are! A little progress when possible. Mark
  20. kruginmi
    Great job Mike. You are finding your Zen and working each port as its own project and it shows. A full hull certainly gives you lots of practice on most jobs. At least the Cromwell (like Druid) is 1/48th and this detail as achievable (at least for me - hah, hah). Keep it up, Mark
  21. kruginmi
    Thanks everyone, with the snow falling outside I had a bit of time in the workshop to add the railing: I used bamboo skewers for the upright posts and a piece of boxwood available for the railing itself. The belaying pins were from my spares box. Just need to drill some holes for the shrouds and necessary blocks (also for the stay - crows feet - that will remain empty). As a side note, the cheek blocks didn't quite look right to me so I removed them, put them higher and thinned them out. Mark
  22. kruginmi
    Great Job! I love the look. And it only took four build pages to do! (hah hah) mark
  23. kruginmi
    On to another mini-project all in itself, the fighting top. Lots of techniques here but I was leery of warping so I opted for using a 1/32" piece of basswood for my basic form, then glued the surrounding thicker rim before applying the second layer of planking. - again 1/32". I did keep the curved front piece free to make shaping the inner planks much easier. This whole assembly will be painted black but I still added some pencil caulking to give it the look prior to that painting. next up was figuring out where all the radiating outward supports should go. I copied the top to a piece of paper and figured out where I think they should be. My proportional divider was used a LOT. Once figured out I transferred to the top itself. Then a lot of cutting. I used a piece of walnut because I found a strip already cut that was perfect. I ended up mortising the pieces that intersect the front curved piece into the curved piece to make the fit snug with no visible gaps. I thought at first the strip I used was way more than enough, a third of the way through I wasn't so sure, sweating it until the last three pieces showed I was good. Still have the rear railing and quite a few holes to cut but visually I am happy with it: Stay building my friends, Mark
  24. kruginmi
    Thanks Grant and Mark, here is to a better sleep tonight.....(as I get older, that broadside is usually something entirely different!) So what are cheek blocks? Only item left (beside the fighting top) are cleats around 4 feet above the deck around the mast. I will wait until the mast fits into the deck to insure I do this right. mark
  25. kruginmi
    Well of course I woke up at 3 in the morning with the realization I had skipped over the cheek blocks on the top mast. Hanging on too tight? (completed at 7:30 this morning).

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