popeye the sailor

Thanks my friend.
First the fore mast and then the horizontal things….a couple of a few hundred
 

nice job, my friend.......you on a roll now!

nice job, my friend.......you on a roll now!

I want to get these skis done so I can do just that Augie.   tired to get barbie to drop by......but she's too busy......I gotta get someone to help me size up these bindings.   I grabbed Chester from the wharf....he was kinda reluctant to do it.........but he dropped what he was doing and helped me.
 

you caught me Sherry!.........yes...it's true that when I snore.....I AM  sawing wood!   yup.......I get up in the morning,   I just grab the wood and throw it on 
 
I should put a disclaimer at the bottom Adam............beware in following the ravings of a madman....least you be sucked into the delusion as well
 
I wish that was so John.......then I could get back all the wood Gibbs chewed to splinters,  andI can stop watching all the smaller diameter dowels...the admiral would stop using them for plant stalk stakes!

I want to get these skis done so I can do just that Augie.   tired to get barbie to drop by......but she's too busy......I gotta get someone to help me size up these bindings.   I grabbed Chester from the wharf....he was kinda reluctant to do it.........but he dropped what he was doing and helped me.
 

I want to get these skis done so I can do just that Augie.   tired to get barbie to drop by......but she's too busy......I gotta get someone to help me size up these bindings.   I grabbed Chester from the wharf....he was kinda reluctant to do it.........but he dropped what he was doing and helped me.
 

nice..........buzzing right along,  I see.  I would tie a line on that gaff though......I can see that breaking from the weight

More on the pilot house. I'm working on the interior, although I've also cast the windows. They won't go in until I've put the" skin" in place, and I'll do that after I've installed the pieces that go on the flat parts of the pilot house, namely the doors.
 
On the left, in the picture, is the form I used for making the doors. I'm using the sandwich method that Danny uses to build his doors. So between two door panels will be a window and 3 wooden panels. The picture also shows the beginnings of the door from the pilot house into the captains cabin. Then there's the pilot house floor and chart table. There will be a seat on the other side of the door.
 
Tom

Good morning all,
 
Some more progress pictures, related with the work on the admiral's bridge.
 

 

 
Should be able to finish off the window frame riveting by tomorrow. During the weekend I shall be investing some time to carry out some work on the five in number searchlights required for the ship.
 
Below are a couple of rare pictures of the signal lamp as installed on the Scharnhorst. There were two of these, one on each side of the admiral's bridge. I shall be working on these as soon as I have finished off with the search light platforms.
   

 
 

Rigging tool.
 
At some point in the rigging process I guess all modellers wonder if there is a better way than poking around with a couple of pairs of long nose tweezers of threading cord around belaying pins, particularly the bit of the pin below the rack. I found the tweezer approach very frustrating so had a think about the problem and realized what was needed was a gadget to push the cord into place and control where it went.
 
I use cut off sewing needles on a dowel to place CA where I want it, 2 different needle sizes for different amounts of glue. I cut off the eye of the needle leaving only a small "V". I find this works very well.
 
I'm sure many of you use similar methods but maybe this little bit of info may help someone who, like me, is still learning some basic techniques.
 
The Bounty is the first bit of serious rigging that I have done so I am learning a lot and still have lots to find out.
 
So the rigging tool. Almost the same as the CA tool but with the eye of a largish needle cut off leaving a bit longer of a "V". Fixed into the end of a bit of 4mm dowel about 200mm long it works a treat. Hold the end of the thread somewhere near where the tying is to occur, catch the thread in the tool and push it around the belaying pin. I wish I thought of this one many pins ago! Better late than never.
 
Cheers.
 

Rigging tool.
 

Makes tying these much easier.

Popeye,
 
I have only good sides………. ( at least that is what Anja says….)
 

Hi Sjors,
 
Nice even spacing on the deadeyes - the jig works well .
 
A couple of things to make it easier and neater for you :
 
 
My technique for tying the upper deadeyes to the shrouds works like this :
 
(One thing I'd do differently with your jig is to cut the top part lower to give you more room to wrap the siezing (lashing) around the shroud without the jig getting in the way.)
 
The siezing rope should be VERY thin - yours looks too thick. Fine cotton or linen thread works the best - don't use nylon, it doesn't hold it's shape very well and keeps coming undone. I actually use a very thin fishing line for this, but that's another story.
 
First I loop the shroud around the deadeye and tie the bottom siezing with a double overhand knot and pull it tight to hold it in place. Sometimes I need to use tweezers around the shroud to slide the knot hard against the deadeye. Then I use some diluted PVA glue around the deadeye and the knot and let it dry.
 
Next I wrap the siezing around the shroud 6 or 7 times and pull the last turn back under itself, glue the siezing and let it dry again. There are actually three siezings to be done on each deadeye/shroud, but you can just use one if you want to (it's a bit easier, and most of it will be hidden by the lanyard anyway - see below). Keep wrapping the siezing until you get to the end of the shroud "tail". Make sure you have cut all the shroud "tails" the same length.
 


 
Now is the time to remove the deadeyes/shrouds from the jig so each one can be tightened. The Lanyard rope should be half as thick as the shroud.
 
The ends of the Lanyards should wrap around the shroud tail about 3 or 4 times and finish with a small siezing :
 

 
 
A better order would be to do the Shrouds (including those under the bowsprit - yes, fit it NOW), Forestays, Ratlines (before too much other rigging gets in the way) and Backstays - finish ALL the Standing Rigging before you even think of hoisting the Yards and start on the Running Rigging. You need to have all your Masts and Bowsprit correctly aligned BEFORE you start any Running Rigging.
 
Another tip : Don't "finish" any of the Lanyards on the Shrouds yet - they may (WILL) need some "fine tuning" as you progress with the Standing Rigging. A simple single knot will hold them for now. If you have used PVA to hold the Lanyards you have already fitted and find you need to adjust them, just brush some water on them to soften the glue and you will be able to undo them again.
 
  Danny

you caught me Sherry!.........yes...it's true that when I snore.....I AM  sawing wood!   yup.......I get up in the morning,   I just grab the wood and throw it on 
 
I should put a disclaimer at the bottom Adam............beware in following the ravings of a madman....least you be sucked into the delusion as well
 
I wish that was so John.......then I could get back all the wood Gibbs chewed to splinters,  andI can stop watching all the smaller diameter dowels...the admiral would stop using them for plant stalk stakes!

he'd be too busy adjusting the lights to show his good side  :0

Popeye,
 
Very nicely done.  The coils look great as does everything else.  Looks like in another day or two, this build will be ready for the display shelf.

Better be careful there Popeye, after catching up may be adding rope coils to that popeye signal as well!!  

did a bit more in the last couple of days.  they show the transom and counter planked in the next step.  I had already cemented on the brackets for it,  so I figured I'd do it before the planking.....it makes sense.
 
this bit of planking requires three different widths of wood .....4mm  5mm  and 6mm for the bottom.
 

 
the 6mm is done in a diagonal pattern than the upper planks.....kind of a cool arrangement.  the mid counter is the 5mm.......the upper part of the transom is the 4mm.
 

 

 

 
now that the planking is on there,  it needs to be trimmed and sanded.  I'll do some of it now,  and the rest of it will be done when the frame is fared.
 

 

Pass the popcorn please!!! Very, very nice!

did a bit more in the last couple of days.  they show the transom and counter planked in the next step.  I had already cemented on the brackets for it,  so I figured I'd do it before the planking.....it makes sense.
 
this bit of planking requires three different widths of wood .....4mm  5mm  and 6mm for the bottom.
 

 
the 6mm is done in a diagonal pattern than the upper planks.....kind of a cool arrangement.  the mid counter is the 5mm.......the upper part of the transom is the 4mm.
 

 

 

 
now that the planking is on there,  it needs to be trimmed and sanded.  I'll do some of it now,  and the rest of it will be done when the frame is fared.
 

 

I knew I had this build in my watch list...........just an echo to the fine job your doing with her.   don't know if you saw my offer........you want sails,  I'd be happy to make them for you.    no fee.........just a smile will do! 

looking forward in seeing you get back in the saddle....so to speak      the admiral would like to get another camera.......I'm going to try and put in my two cents......for a few more bells and whistles. 

yepper!  your doing quite well..........now that the shrouds are done........now let's see how fast you can do the rungs 

the finish of the AmericA is going along........kinda slow,  but when it comes......it just slaps you in the face.
 
 
the light boxes are cementd on the shrouds and allowed to dry.
 

 

 

 
now that they are dry,  I'm sure that they can take the weight of the lights.
 

 

 

I tried my hand at making flemish coils.........this'll make the flemish folks roll on the floor......that's for sure!
 
using clear cello and push pin,  the set up began.   a piece of pine board covered with plastic wrap was the recieving end of the jig.
 

 

 
the only problem with this is the glue used won't be able to breathe......as shown above.  the outside was dry,  but the inside was still a bit wet.  I did get a few good ones out of it though.  if they don't look too bad.....I'll use them.  I'll save the others for something else.
 

 
the anchors were coming along........the thickness was sanded down and then rounded.   the holes were drilled in the upper part,  where the iron bar {not included} and the chain will be located.
 

 
some of the coils were set in place .
 

 

 

 
other rope coils were made as well,  and set in place.   the anchors were given a coat of paint.
 

 
some more coils were laid down........not as good as the first ones..........but they'll do,  I guess