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Everything posted by glbarlow
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Not sure how I missed the finished model post nearly a year ago. Try belated congratulations on a job so well done. So many fine points about your build, the one I find especially impressive are the splices and seizings in your rope work. Well done!
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I believe it’s the same called limewood in Europe and basswood in the US, certainly similar if nothing else. It’s suitable for interior parts, but not of quality for planking in my opinion. I’d thin mahogany would be difficult to work with, walnut is very common and what most basic kit builders provide. Not the best look for our model. Maybe it’s worth the cost to have Alaskan Cedar shipped to you. From Chuck’s mill partner
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I had the same gap, I imagine we all did. This will be the alignment of your forward planks, best not to let it go. I simply, and very carefully, sanded the curve of the stem until it matched the frame and rabbet. Think it out where and where not to sand, and it doesn’t take much to get it right. I went slow, repeatedly test fitting. So I guess conflicting advice from prior builders, all who were successful with their solution. Have fun😁
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You may need to bevel, even up, and/or reduce the scrap wood pieces or the gap might grow wider as you plank further. You might also be able the replacement the bottom (currently top) counter plank. While replacing the planks is a lot, there are still ways to fiddle about to close the gap. The moulding strip and frieze have to have some to adhere to. (I hadn’t notice the size of the gap in my earlier comment, sorry).
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This is a challenging area to get a good clean, tight flow of planks. It’s also a time to look ahead in the instructions, something I always do,to see the final look. The lower counter will be covered with a frieze and moulding over that along the line of planks. The curve, tight and solid fit is the important part.
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Vanguard MDF
glbarlow replied to hornet's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Never had a problem. It’s much easier to work with than the old fashion easily splintered ply material. So I’m thinking you’re a klutz:-) There are many posts on this topicin years past, mostly it seemed to me people resisting change had a bigger problem than anything related to the material. Some cheaper models may use a lower grade quality of MDF, that’s certainly not the case with any Vanguard model. More significantly the is no way Chris could create his modern interlocking designs with ply, there would be shattering and splinters everywhere. -
Winchelsea is a tremendous model that took me 3 years of working almost daily the entire time. It took skills I learned over the 12 models I built before it and new skills I learned along the way. Personally I’d recommend doing any of the Vanguard naval ships first and if you’re ready to test yourself further I’d start with Chuck’s Cheerful, a model I fully enjoyed building and led me directly to Winchelsea. I doubt Trussben or others that have built it would say it was easy, the fun is in the challenge. That’s not to say anyone couldn’t start with Winchelsea, in my case it was more fun because I’d built the others first. Chuck’s designs are well thought out, the parts are detailed, and his instructions clear. His support along the way is unparalleled. Undoubtedly it’s my best model. All that said, I’d read through multiple logs, get some experience under your belt, and decide then.
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Brings back memories. Seems like you have it well in hand, it is essential that all the framing is accurate. This is especially true of the stern and gallery framing, there are some tight tolerances ahead in future chapters, this framing is what makes it work. I noted you use cut outs of the plans on the bow, I encourage you to do so on the stern, both the transom and in particular the galleries. You’ll see this done in other build logs. So many times I was thankful I’d worked and reworked this infrastructure, the cutouts were infinitely helpful.
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