glbarlow
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Everything posted by glbarlow
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Very impressive paint work, even more impressive is the research and finding of clever techniques to make it happen. -
I’m never sure what’s better, the quality of your build or the depth of your logs. I do agree they are of benefit to us all. Well done as always BE!
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You may need to bevel, even up, and/or reduce the scrap wood pieces or the gap might grow wider as you plank further. You might also be able the replacement the bottom (currently top) counter plank. While replacing the planks is a lot, there are still ways to fiddle about to close the gap. The moulding strip and frieze have to have some to adhere to. (I hadn’t notice the size of the gap in my earlier comment, sorry).
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I think your’re on the right track, no need to change
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The pear is complimentary. I wouldn’t paint it.
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This is a challenging area to get a good clean, tight flow of planks. It’s also a time to look ahead in the instructions, something I always do,to see the final look. The lower counter will be covered with a frieze and moulding over that along the line of planks. The curve, tight and solid fit is the important part.
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Nice work, a big task to have the cannon behind you. Fun stuff ahead!
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Well done!
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Nice planking, those gun ports are a challenge to frame.
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An ambitious beginning, looking forward to your progress.
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Glad to hear I’ll still have a future option on Speedwell, the only of your models I haven’t built. The high demand for fittings will no doubt keep you busy for years to come. I’m a big fan of both models and fittings but I appreciate we all want a little more time as we settled into retirement.
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Looking forward to watching your progress. Looks like a great project.
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Vanguard MDF
glbarlow replied to hornet's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Never had a problem. It’s much easier to work with than the old fashion easily splintered ply material. So I’m thinking you’re a klutz:-) There are many posts on this topicin years past, mostly it seemed to me people resisting change had a bigger problem than anything related to the material. Some cheaper models may use a lower grade quality of MDF, that’s certainly not the case with any Vanguard model. More significantly the is no way Chris could create his modern interlocking designs with ply, there would be shattering and splinters everywhere. -
Just look at build logs for Cheerful, Medway Longboat, and Winchelsea. Almost all built with AYC.
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Winchelsea is a tremendous model that took me 3 years of working almost daily the entire time. It took skills I learned over the 12 models I built before it and new skills I learned along the way. Personally I’d recommend doing any of the Vanguard naval ships first and if you’re ready to test yourself further I’d start with Chuck’s Cheerful, a model I fully enjoyed building and led me directly to Winchelsea. I doubt Trussben or others that have built it would say it was easy, the fun is in the challenge. That’s not to say anyone couldn’t start with Winchelsea, in my case it was more fun because I’d built the others first. Chuck’s designs are well thought out, the parts are detailed, and his instructions clear. His support along the way is unparalleled. Undoubtedly it’s my best model. All that said, I’d read through multiple logs, get some experience under your belt, and decide then.
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Nicely done!
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Well done, the tribute to your father is especially nice.
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Brings back memories. Seems like you have it well in hand, it is essential that all the framing is accurate. This is especially true of the stern and gallery framing, there are some tight tolerances ahead in future chapters, this framing is what makes it work. I noted you use cut outs of the plans on the bow, I encourage you to do so on the stern, both the transom and in particular the galleries. You’ll see this done in other build logs. So many times I was thankful I’d worked and reworked this infrastructure, the cutouts were infinitely helpful.
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I should have mentioned the ones from Model Expo often seem like they come out of the discarded bin. Brass takes me back to my military days, the slightest tarnish wasn’t tolerated. I used Brasso and a soft cloth to quickly and easily bring back the bright color that’s always there somewhere. Nice work with the turning and filing, the model and stand integrate perfectly. I've used that wood base on all my models other than Winchelsea, I never had one arrived stained, glad it’s a color you like. Now I recommend adding a small engraved brass plate, I include model name, my name and the month/year I completed it (so when I’m old I’ll remember it was me that built it😂🤣 You’ve build a great version of Cheerful, really excellent work.
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I agree with Ronald, fun to see the design process as it develops. So much thought required for every step.
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Can’t wait. Beefing up the bow is a great idea, it will save me fittings balsa there.
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The included rigging are very simplistic and underdone. I found this book very useful, and specifics to fore and aft craft including cutters. It isn’t overly difficult and does help spice up the model. Plus good learning exercise. Rigging: Fore and Aft Craft. Lennarth Petersson. I found it on Amazon.
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You’re doing quite well with your first model. The breaching lines are enough for such a small model, the effect is there. I’d encourage you to make your own eyelets and ring bolts using the 24 gauge wire (what you have is correct). The result is such an improvement over commercial versions. I made hundreds for Cheerful and Winchelsea, in one way it’s tedious and another therapeutic and in all ways a skill worth learning. I attempt to describe the process in my logs. Give it a try, you’ll start by making 10 to keep 5, but production improves with practice.
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Definitely wouldn’t leave it as is, it would always bother you. I’d either up removing it and repairing any damage, something I’ve done more than I like. The sanding, heavily taping above and below the wale, seems like a good option as well.
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