glbarlow

Beautiful work Glenn.

Boarding Ladder
 
I have a friend making me a display stand, he’s an artist with “big wood.” I can’t wait to set Winchelsea on her final home.

I had to turn her over to get the final fitting on the three cradles she’ll sit on - something I should have done much sooner. So of course something broke. Fun it was clearing, cleaning, repainting, 18/0 and 10/0 spotter and shader brushes, and reinstalling this piece, or pieces as they became, (especially the tiny metal braces on the inner edges) with everything around it complete and completely in the way. A lot of patience and slow going, In the end all is ok again.

I made some decisions installing the boarding ladder. First was to remove the complete molding rather than try and cut into it.
 

I also elected to scrape a pattern similar to the moulding. Then by sanding a 67.5 angle on each side and a reverse 67.5 on the re-cut to fit separated molding I could create an integrated look for the anchor step. Anchor step because I would space the rest based on the fit of this step within the moulding.  I used a round file and 400 grit to round the pattern into the side of each step after scraping them from a length of boxwood strip. I kinda like the result.

I printed the frieze pattern on tissue paper, a first for me. I just didn’t like the outcome of wrapping the top step, partially because I couldn’t get a clean look on the sides, admittedly I didn’t try very hard. While the wrapped step looks great I preferred a natural look atop the frieze. I split the distance between the top and second step for spacing. I lined all the steps up with the right edge of the port, it being perpendicular to the actual water line (the photo isn’t straight on so the perspective is off).

Mini-me had a new view of the ship standing here on the ladder. He's to scale so I like the perspective he provides to size and space. The plans show 6 steps with the last one on the black strake. I measured out how that would work on my particular hull, the spacing would have looked awkward with the top two steps fitted as they needed to be. So I reduced the spacing for the remaining four steps for a consistent look.

But I worked it out.  After measuring, cutting and re-cutting multiple test spacers (2.23mm wound up to be the right gap) to allow a seventh step sitting in the middle of the black strake. 

Ahh symmetry … and some drama. Determining the jigs by measuring and remeasuring and making the steps was fun. Removing the moulding without taking the frieze with it, and with  a #11 blade scratching into the multiple coats of WOP to create a bondable surface for the glue provided a few deep breath moments. I used CA, applied with a straight pin onto the step with just enough to adhere without spillover onto the hull.
 
It all turned out ok. Thanks for stopping by.

Boarding Ladder
 
I have a friend making me a display stand, he’s an artist with “big wood.” I can’t wait to set Winchelsea on her final home.

I had to turn her over to get the final fitting on the three cradles she’ll sit on - something I should have done much sooner. So of course something broke. Fun it was clearing, cleaning, repainting, 18/0 and 10/0 spotter and shader brushes, and reinstalling this piece, or pieces as they became, (especially the tiny metal braces on the inner edges) with everything around it complete and completely in the way. A lot of patience and slow going, In the end all is ok again.

I made some decisions installing the boarding ladder. First was to remove the complete molding rather than try and cut into it.
 

I also elected to scrape a pattern similar to the moulding. Then by sanding a 67.5 angle on each side and a reverse 67.5 on the re-cut to fit separated molding I could create an integrated look for the anchor step. Anchor step because I would space the rest based on the fit of this step within the moulding.  I used a round file and 400 grit to round the pattern into the side of each step after scraping them from a length of boxwood strip. I kinda like the result.

I printed the frieze pattern on tissue paper, a first for me. I just didn’t like the outcome of wrapping the top step, partially because I couldn’t get a clean look on the sides, admittedly I didn’t try very hard. While the wrapped step looks great I preferred a natural look atop the frieze. I split the distance between the top and second step for spacing. I lined all the steps up with the right edge of the port, it being perpendicular to the actual water line (the photo isn’t straight on so the perspective is off).

Mini-me had a new view of the ship standing here on the ladder. He's to scale so I like the perspective he provides to size and space. The plans show 6 steps with the last one on the black strake. I measured out how that would work on my particular hull, the spacing would have looked awkward with the top two steps fitted as they needed to be. So I reduced the spacing for the remaining four steps for a consistent look.

But I worked it out.  After measuring, cutting and re-cutting multiple test spacers (2.23mm wound up to be the right gap) to allow a seventh step sitting in the middle of the black strake. 

Ahh symmetry … and some drama. Determining the jigs by measuring and remeasuring and making the steps was fun. Removing the moulding without taking the frieze with it, and with  a #11 blade scratching into the multiple coats of WOP to create a bondable surface for the glue provided a few deep breath moments. I used CA, applied with a straight pin onto the step with just enough to adhere without spillover onto the hull.
 
It all turned out ok. Thanks for stopping by.

Boarding Ladder
 
I have a friend making me a display stand, he’s an artist with “big wood.” I can’t wait to set Winchelsea on her final home.

I had to turn her over to get the final fitting on the three cradles she’ll sit on - something I should have done much sooner. So of course something broke. Fun it was clearing, cleaning, repainting, 18/0 and 10/0 spotter and shader brushes, and reinstalling this piece, or pieces as they became, (especially the tiny metal braces on the inner edges) with everything around it complete and completely in the way. A lot of patience and slow going, In the end all is ok again.

I made some decisions installing the boarding ladder. First was to remove the complete molding rather than try and cut into it.
 

I also elected to scrape a pattern similar to the moulding. Then by sanding a 67.5 angle on each side and a reverse 67.5 on the re-cut to fit separated molding I could create an integrated look for the anchor step. Anchor step because I would space the rest based on the fit of this step within the moulding.  I used a round file and 400 grit to round the pattern into the side of each step after scraping them from a length of boxwood strip. I kinda like the result.

I printed the frieze pattern on tissue paper, a first for me. I just didn’t like the outcome of wrapping the top step, partially because I couldn’t get a clean look on the sides, admittedly I didn’t try very hard. While the wrapped step looks great I preferred a natural look atop the frieze. I split the distance between the top and second step for spacing. I lined all the steps up with the right edge of the port, it being perpendicular to the actual water line (the photo isn’t straight on so the perspective is off).

Mini-me had a new view of the ship standing here on the ladder. He's to scale so I like the perspective he provides to size and space. The plans show 6 steps with the last one on the black strake. I measured out how that would work on my particular hull, the spacing would have looked awkward with the top two steps fitted as they needed to be. So I reduced the spacing for the remaining four steps for a consistent look.

But I worked it out.  After measuring, cutting and re-cutting multiple test spacers (2.23mm wound up to be the right gap) to allow a seventh step sitting in the middle of the black strake. 

Ahh symmetry … and some drama. Determining the jigs by measuring and remeasuring and making the steps was fun. Removing the moulding without taking the frieze with it, and with  a #11 blade scratching into the multiple coats of WOP to create a bondable surface for the glue provided a few deep breath moments. I used CA, applied with a straight pin onto the step with just enough to adhere without spillover onto the hull.
 
It all turned out ok. Thanks for stopping by.

Thanks for the nice comments.
 
The weathering powder rally does make a big difference, especially on metal and wood meant to be metal, like my stove. Air brushing too makes for a nicer look on things like cannon carriages.  I had no idea how to use one, but with guidance from here on the forum I sorted it out.  Amazon has some nice, reasonably priced setups.  My advice, don’t go too cheap.  A good brush and an actual compressor is worth the extra money. The only down side is the brush takes about as long to clean as it does to paint, for me anyway.  

Boarding Ladder
 
I have a friend making me a display stand, he’s an artist with “big wood.” I can’t wait to set Winchelsea on her final home.

I had to turn her over to get the final fitting on the three cradles she’ll sit on - something I should have done much sooner. So of course something broke. Fun it was clearing, cleaning, repainting, 18/0 and 10/0 spotter and shader brushes, and reinstalling this piece, or pieces as they became, (especially the tiny metal braces on the inner edges) with everything around it complete and completely in the way. A lot of patience and slow going, In the end all is ok again.

I made some decisions installing the boarding ladder. First was to remove the complete molding rather than try and cut into it.
 

I also elected to scrape a pattern similar to the moulding. Then by sanding a 67.5 angle on each side and a reverse 67.5 on the re-cut to fit separated molding I could create an integrated look for the anchor step. Anchor step because I would space the rest based on the fit of this step within the moulding.  I used a round file and 400 grit to round the pattern into the side of each step after scraping them from a length of boxwood strip. I kinda like the result.

I printed the frieze pattern on tissue paper, a first for me. I just didn’t like the outcome of wrapping the top step, partially because I couldn’t get a clean look on the sides, admittedly I didn’t try very hard. While the wrapped step looks great I preferred a natural look atop the frieze. I split the distance between the top and second step for spacing. I lined all the steps up with the right edge of the port, it being perpendicular to the actual water line (the photo isn’t straight on so the perspective is off).

Mini-me had a new view of the ship standing here on the ladder. He's to scale so I like the perspective he provides to size and space. The plans show 6 steps with the last one on the black strake. I measured out how that would work on my particular hull, the spacing would have looked awkward with the top two steps fitted as they needed to be. So I reduced the spacing for the remaining four steps for a consistent look.

But I worked it out.  After measuring, cutting and re-cutting multiple test spacers (2.23mm wound up to be the right gap) to allow a seventh step sitting in the middle of the black strake. 

Ahh symmetry … and some drama. Determining the jigs by measuring and remeasuring and making the steps was fun. Removing the moulding without taking the frieze with it, and with  a #11 blade scratching into the multiple coats of WOP to create a bondable surface for the glue provided a few deep breath moments. I used CA, applied with a straight pin onto the step with just enough to adhere without spillover onto the hull.
 
It all turned out ok. Thanks for stopping by.

Quarterdeck Cannon
 
No lengthy explanations, the quarterdeck cannon were made just as the main deck guns detailed in an earlier post.

The carriages were freed of char and air brushed.
 
One difference from the main guns are the cannon; before being air brushed with Ironwood Black I elected to replace the thin resin trunnions with 19 gauge wire by drilling through the guns using my mill. Or perhaps I should say the decision was made for me with at least three of the guns already having the plastic ones broken off while still in the bag. No doubt carelessness on my part.
 
The production line is ready.


The completed guns sitting (not glued, that comes later) on the q-deck. I always build one extra … just in case. 
 
On to Chapter 11.

Boarding Ladder
 
I have a friend making me a display stand, he’s an artist with “big wood.” I can’t wait to set Winchelsea on her final home.

I had to turn her over to get the final fitting on the three cradles she’ll sit on - something I should have done much sooner. So of course something broke. Fun it was clearing, cleaning, repainting, 18/0 and 10/0 spotter and shader brushes, and reinstalling this piece, or pieces as they became, (especially the tiny metal braces on the inner edges) with everything around it complete and completely in the way. A lot of patience and slow going, In the end all is ok again.

I made some decisions installing the boarding ladder. First was to remove the complete molding rather than try and cut into it.
 

I also elected to scrape a pattern similar to the moulding. Then by sanding a 67.5 angle on each side and a reverse 67.5 on the re-cut to fit separated molding I could create an integrated look for the anchor step. Anchor step because I would space the rest based on the fit of this step within the moulding.  I used a round file and 400 grit to round the pattern into the side of each step after scraping them from a length of boxwood strip. I kinda like the result.

I printed the frieze pattern on tissue paper, a first for me. I just didn’t like the outcome of wrapping the top step, partially because I couldn’t get a clean look on the sides, admittedly I didn’t try very hard. While the wrapped step looks great I preferred a natural look atop the frieze. I split the distance between the top and second step for spacing. I lined all the steps up with the right edge of the port, it being perpendicular to the actual water line (the photo isn’t straight on so the perspective is off).

Mini-me had a new view of the ship standing here on the ladder. He's to scale so I like the perspective he provides to size and space. The plans show 6 steps with the last one on the black strake. I measured out how that would work on my particular hull, the spacing would have looked awkward with the top two steps fitted as they needed to be. So I reduced the spacing for the remaining four steps for a consistent look.

But I worked it out.  After measuring, cutting and re-cutting multiple test spacers (2.23mm wound up to be the right gap) to allow a seventh step sitting in the middle of the black strake. 

Ahh symmetry … and some drama. Determining the jigs by measuring and remeasuring and making the steps was fun. Removing the moulding without taking the frieze with it, and with  a #11 blade scratching into the multiple coats of WOP to create a bondable surface for the glue provided a few deep breath moments. I used CA, applied with a straight pin onto the step with just enough to adhere without spillover onto the hull.
 
It all turned out ok. Thanks for stopping by.

Boarding Ladder
 
I have a friend making me a display stand, he’s an artist with “big wood.” I can’t wait to set Winchelsea on her final home.

I had to turn her over to get the final fitting on the three cradles she’ll sit on - something I should have done much sooner. So of course something broke. Fun it was clearing, cleaning, repainting, 18/0 and 10/0 spotter and shader brushes, and reinstalling this piece, or pieces as they became, (especially the tiny metal braces on the inner edges) with everything around it complete and completely in the way. A lot of patience and slow going, In the end all is ok again.

I made some decisions installing the boarding ladder. First was to remove the complete molding rather than try and cut into it.
 

I also elected to scrape a pattern similar to the moulding. Then by sanding a 67.5 angle on each side and a reverse 67.5 on the re-cut to fit separated molding I could create an integrated look for the anchor step. Anchor step because I would space the rest based on the fit of this step within the moulding.  I used a round file and 400 grit to round the pattern into the side of each step after scraping them from a length of boxwood strip. I kinda like the result.

I printed the frieze pattern on tissue paper, a first for me. I just didn’t like the outcome of wrapping the top step, partially because I couldn’t get a clean look on the sides, admittedly I didn’t try very hard. While the wrapped step looks great I preferred a natural look atop the frieze. I split the distance between the top and second step for spacing. I lined all the steps up with the right edge of the port, it being perpendicular to the actual water line (the photo isn’t straight on so the perspective is off).

Mini-me had a new view of the ship standing here on the ladder. He's to scale so I like the perspective he provides to size and space. The plans show 6 steps with the last one on the black strake. I measured out how that would work on my particular hull, the spacing would have looked awkward with the top two steps fitted as they needed to be. So I reduced the spacing for the remaining four steps for a consistent look.

But I worked it out.  After measuring, cutting and re-cutting multiple test spacers (2.23mm wound up to be the right gap) to allow a seventh step sitting in the middle of the black strake. 

Ahh symmetry … and some drama. Determining the jigs by measuring and remeasuring and making the steps was fun. Removing the moulding without taking the frieze with it, and with  a #11 blade scratching into the multiple coats of WOP to create a bondable surface for the glue provided a few deep breath moments. I used CA, applied with a straight pin onto the step with just enough to adhere without spillover onto the hull.
 
It all turned out ok. Thanks for stopping by.

Nice metal work, my least favorite thing. But then it looks so good on the model. Consider weathering powder, these look good, blackened and weathered. 

Post One Hundred and Sixty-seven
 
The 26 ft Launch - The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly.
Altho’ the main work on Indy has been completed, the overall display requires further work.
Building the Launch continues my work on the boats. I like the Launch because it offers opportunity to add detail such as the windlass.
I have been here before as I made up the 24’ Launch for Sphinx. This didn’t however guard me against breaking the stern post (twice) during the fitting of the transom.

4227
Again, I thought it prudent to add little support pieces to the build board to reduce any flexing during the fairing business. These small boats are delicate and require gentle handling particularly in the early stages.

4232
The fairing went ok.

4235
Regrettably, the stem broke in two places along the planking slot during the testing of the first planking strip, hardly touched it Gov’ner, and the repairs didn’t hold.

4236
I suspect it was a combination of the inherent weakness related to the planking slot, plus possible grain run of the stem.

4239
I did think about replacing the stem element, but removing the frames from the base resulted in what our American friends may describe as FUBAR.
 
Sadly, Indy will be without her Launch, but stuff happens – right.
 
B.E.
07/04/2024
 

Thanks for the nice comments.
 
The weathering powder rally does make a big difference, especially on metal and wood meant to be metal, like my stove. Air brushing too makes for a nicer look on things like cannon carriages.  I had no idea how to use one, but with guidance from here on the forum I sorted it out.  Amazon has some nice, reasonably priced setups.  My advice, don’t go too cheap.  A good brush and an actual compressor is worth the extra money. The only down side is the brush takes about as long to clean as it does to paint, for me anyway.  

Thanks for the comment Eric. My cannons are a two step process. First airbrushing with Admiralty Paints Ironworks Black (I love the stuff, a rich matte black), airbrushing both the carriages and the guns produces a much more even finish, especially on the barrels. Then a four different brush application of Doc OBrien’s Rusty Brown weathering powder (which I also more lightly apply to the cap squares to bring it all together. Don't know why but the combination turns the cannons into a nice gun metal gray, credit goes to Chuck for the Rusty Brown, not an obvious choice.
 
Enjoying your work on Cheerful as well. 

Thank you for the kind words. Glad my log will be of some help. Both Cheerful and now Winchelsea are great build, lots of challenges and lots of fun - with a little frustration here and there. 

Quarterdeck Cannon
 
No lengthy explanations, the quarterdeck cannon were made just as the main deck guns detailed in an earlier post.

The carriages were freed of char and air brushed.
 
One difference from the main guns are the cannon; before being air brushed with Ironwood Black I elected to replace the thin resin trunnions with 19 gauge wire by drilling through the guns using my mill. Or perhaps I should say the decision was made for me with at least three of the guns already having the plastic ones broken off while still in the bag. No doubt carelessness on my part.
 
The production line is ready.


The completed guns sitting (not glued, that comes later) on the q-deck. I always build one extra … just in case. 
 
On to Chapter 11.

Who would send hate mail. You made the right and best decision. We love our dogs, taking our previous 17 year old beagle for that last trip is heartbreaking, no matter how right it is to do. 

Well done B.E.  Congratulations on another superb model. Always a pleasure following your logs. What’s next up?  

Who would send hate mail. You made the right and best decision. We love our dogs, taking our previous 17 year old beagle for that last trip is heartbreaking, no matter how right it is to do. 

Nice metal work, my least favorite thing. But then it looks so good on the model. Consider weathering powder, these look good, blackened and weathered. 

Who would send hate mail. You made the right and best decision. We love our dogs, taking our previous 17 year old beagle for that last trip is heartbreaking, no matter how right it is to do. 

Thanks for the nice comments.
 
The weathering powder rally does make a big difference, especially on metal and wood meant to be metal, like my stove. Air brushing too makes for a nicer look on things like cannon carriages.  I had no idea how to use one, but with guidance from here on the forum I sorted it out.  Amazon has some nice, reasonably priced setups.  My advice, don’t go too cheap.  A good brush and an actual compressor is worth the extra money. The only down side is the brush takes about as long to clean as it does to paint, for me anyway.  

Thanks for the likes folks.  And thanks for the comment Glenn.  I do plan on using weathering powders on the painted brass parts.
 
Erik

Don’t go cheap on brushes, but you don’t need high end artist level either. Buy good ones, take care of them with proper cleaning and they will last a long time.  Hobby Lobby has Princeton Velvet Touch and Master’s Touch brands both of which I like. I prefer shaders and spotters, I rarely, (never really) use a round brush. I also prefer a range of sizes in both types,  20/0, 18/0, 10/0, 5/0, 3/0, 2, 4, 6, 8, even ¾ for hull paint jobs. I don’t care for spray painting, I like the look of a well applied brush and use the size/type brush I want for the job.
 
Brushes are important, so is, and maybe more so, the quality of the acrylic (no oils on wood for me) paint.  There are lots of good brands and most have their favorite.  Buy small tubes/bottles of several to test and see what you like.

This is my preliminary test of colors and four different brands for my upcoming Winchelsea build as example. I may be a little over the top on this topic I admit. 

Nice metal work, my least favorite thing. But then it looks so good on the model. Consider weathering powder, these look good, blackened and weathered. 

I’m an active pro NPS photographer, I think you may be a bit out of touch. I know lots of very capable and experienced hobbyists. Just like any hobby, including modeling, there are those that express as fact expertise they don’t necessarily have. These are the ones I often see in Facebook camera groups and warrant a good laugh. There  are far more who are curious, seek to learn, and produce some amazing images. It’s a mistake to generalize and assume you are the expert where others aren’t or that every “amateur” is devoid of the technical knowledge of photography and the artistic creativity necessary to produce good work. 
 
But I am far afield of the topic of White Balance, I doubt you’ll change your views so I’ll just let it go and move on. It just bothers me that someone that was once in the field doesn’t respect the wide range of talent out there today.