glbarlow

Thank you for the kind words. Glad my log will be of some help. Both Cheerful and now Winchelsea are great build, lots of challenges and lots of fun - with a little frustration here and there. 

Quarterdeck Cannon
 
No lengthy explanations, the quarterdeck cannon were made just as the main deck guns detailed in an earlier post.

The carriages were freed of char and air brushed.
 
One difference from the main guns are the cannon; before being air brushed with Ironwood Black I elected to replace the thin resin trunnions with 19 gauge wire by drilling through the guns using my mill. Or perhaps I should say the decision was made for me with at least three of the guns already having the plastic ones broken off while still in the bag. No doubt carelessness on my part.
 
The production line is ready.


The completed guns sitting (not glued, that comes later) on the q-deck. I always build one extra … just in case. 
 
On to Chapter 11.

Who would send hate mail. You made the right and best decision. We love our dogs, taking our previous 17 year old beagle for that last trip is heartbreaking, no matter how right it is to do. 

Well done B.E.  Congratulations on another superb model. Always a pleasure following your logs. What’s next up?  

Who would send hate mail. You made the right and best decision. We love our dogs, taking our previous 17 year old beagle for that last trip is heartbreaking, no matter how right it is to do. 

Nice metal work, my least favorite thing. But then it looks so good on the model. Consider weathering powder, these look good, blackened and weathered. 

Who would send hate mail. You made the right and best decision. We love our dogs, taking our previous 17 year old beagle for that last trip is heartbreaking, no matter how right it is to do. 

Thanks for the nice comments.
 
The weathering powder rally does make a big difference, especially on metal and wood meant to be metal, like my stove. Air brushing too makes for a nicer look on things like cannon carriages.  I had no idea how to use one, but with guidance from here on the forum I sorted it out.  Amazon has some nice, reasonably priced setups.  My advice, don’t go too cheap.  A good brush and an actual compressor is worth the extra money. The only down side is the brush takes about as long to clean as it does to paint, for me anyway.  

Thanks for the likes folks.  And thanks for the comment Glenn.  I do plan on using weathering powders on the painted brass parts.
 
Erik

Don’t go cheap on brushes, but you don’t need high end artist level either. Buy good ones, take care of them with proper cleaning and they will last a long time.  Hobby Lobby has Princeton Velvet Touch and Master’s Touch brands both of which I like. I prefer shaders and spotters, I rarely, (never really) use a round brush. I also prefer a range of sizes in both types,  20/0, 18/0, 10/0, 5/0, 3/0, 2, 4, 6, 8, even ¾ for hull paint jobs. I don’t care for spray painting, I like the look of a well applied brush and use the size/type brush I want for the job.
 
Brushes are important, so is, and maybe more so, the quality of the acrylic (no oils on wood for me) paint.  There are lots of good brands and most have their favorite.  Buy small tubes/bottles of several to test and see what you like.

This is my preliminary test of colors and four different brands for my upcoming Winchelsea build as example. I may be a little over the top on this topic I admit. 

Nice metal work, my least favorite thing. But then it looks so good on the model. Consider weathering powder, these look good, blackened and weathered. 

I’m an active pro NPS photographer, I think you may be a bit out of touch. I know lots of very capable and experienced hobbyists. Just like any hobby, including modeling, there are those that express as fact expertise they don’t necessarily have. These are the ones I often see in Facebook camera groups and warrant a good laugh. There  are far more who are curious, seek to learn, and produce some amazing images. It’s a mistake to generalize and assume you are the expert where others aren’t or that every “amateur” is devoid of the technical knowledge of photography and the artistic creativity necessary to produce good work. 
 
But I am far afield of the topic of White Balance, I doubt you’ll change your views so I’ll just let it go and move on. It just bothers me that someone that was once in the field doesn’t respect the wide range of talent out there today. 

Interesting discussion and a lot of good points. For once in this post there aren't a bunch of so called experts trying to out-expert one another but instead shared ideas and perspectives based on experience and background and nature of photographic work.
 
I shoot creatively, nothing like Justin describes is a part of my detailed, and creative or not, technical process in capturing an image. Digital photography eliminates the need for gray and Color X-rite cards (I had both back in the day) unless you're held to the rules Justin must comply with. I shoot only RAW, with that White Balance is what I want it to be to create a pleasing landscape scene (www.glennbarlow.com if your interested) in post processing. I spend as much time in Lightroom and Photoshop as I do taking the image. Of course all the post processing work and camera white balance setting done won't help if you can't technically take a proper image, you have to know how to manage the camera first and the creative composition second. My only point here is photography is a broad ranging field. Landscape isn't portraits, portraits aren't forensic, forensic isn't scientific, even if the same camera and lens (All Nikon for me) is used. I just converted from DSLRs to Mirrorless, Nikon's Z7ii, Sony, and Canon mirrorless are opening new technical and subsequently creative possibilities for photographers. I did it mostly because it reduced the weight of my backpack by 12 pounds including the lenses I carry, but still.  Bottom line, everyone's opinion and perspective of technical and creative photography stems from the perspective of their photographic experience and work purpose and everyone is right.
 
Back to the topic of White Balance; shooting RAW I can change white balance to whatever works for me in post, including that of a 18% gray card should I choose. I can't be random about it when photographing my grandchildren, those images must be technically correct, more of that is done in camera based and driven by the Profoto B10 flash I normally use or skin tone if no flash is involved. Even with the sophistication and processing power of today's camera it's worth noting that Auto White Balance (my camera has multiple Auto options) is turning over the color decision over to the camera. Since I shoot in RAW it doesn't matter, I can adjust it in post, however if shooting .jpegs there are less capability to correct it.  Auto can result in different white balance results shooting the same image minutes apart or by moving the camera a few degrees since the processor in the camera is judging different things to determine what it deems to be an optimal white balance. And while you can set your own white balance (e.g. 5500) the Daylight, Flash, and Cloudy settings are also fixed settings that don't allow the camera to decide and generally all you need. I used to leave my camera on Cloudy for landscape work on my old cameras (its warmer) but Auto 1 on my newer Nikons is right more than its wrong, so that's what I use now.
 
One last point, inside fluorescent lighting messes with white balance more than anything nature can do, that's where shooting RAW can really come in handy if you're not subjected to rigorous rules for image capture, or you want to be technically correct to capture a creative image of your model.
 
Last, last point. Color is color, it's what our eyes and brain interpret it to be. Arguing over who's method for achieving the best color is like arguing over who has the best looking grandchild, what's the point. Clearly mine are. (again Justin's record rules notwithstanding).

Thank you Glenn, I'm going to finish off the Indy boats; doing well so far, I've already snapped the stern post of the Launch twice in fitting the Transom.🫤
 
After that it's back to Syren, to finish Chuck's wonderful Medway Longboat.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.
 

Well done B.E.  Congratulations on another superb model. Always a pleasure following your logs. What’s next up?  

Post One Hundred and Sixty-six
My version of Indy is effectively completed now and with some serious moving about of models within my workroom/office, I have found room to house Indy in the prominent position she deserves, and without encroaching on other areas of the house.
4223
She has displaced Norske Love which now has a new position vacated by Alert which also has a new location.

e2008a
Had I completed the masting on Indy it would be in the order of that of Norske Love which is of a slightly smaller scale of 1:70.

e2012a
Norske Love has received a well overdue clean, having endured all the dust created during the construction of ‘Indy’.

4022
Not quite ready for the glass cover to be on yet, but at least the issue of ‘where are you going to put that’ is now resolved.
As a bonus the lower profile of Indy compared to Norske love will allow me to re-arrange the wall Pictures and perhaps get one of Indy.
 
I have decided to have a further dabble with the boats, and have started assembly of the 26’ Launch, pity not to make them up as they are provided with the kit.
 
B.E.
06/04/2024
 

Thanks for the nice comments.
 
The weathering powder rally does make a big difference, especially on metal and wood meant to be metal, like my stove. Air brushing too makes for a nicer look on things like cannon carriages.  I had no idea how to use one, but with guidance from here on the forum I sorted it out.  Amazon has some nice, reasonably priced setups.  My advice, don’t go too cheap.  A good brush and an actual compressor is worth the extra money. The only down side is the brush takes about as long to clean as it does to paint, for me anyway.  

Quarterdeck Cannon
 
No lengthy explanations, the quarterdeck cannon were made just as the main deck guns detailed in an earlier post.

The carriages were freed of char and air brushed.
 
One difference from the main guns are the cannon; before being air brushed with Ironwood Black I elected to replace the thin resin trunnions with 19 gauge wire by drilling through the guns using my mill. Or perhaps I should say the decision was made for me with at least three of the guns already having the plastic ones broken off while still in the bag. No doubt carelessness on my part.
 
The production line is ready.


The completed guns sitting (not glued, that comes later) on the q-deck. I always build one extra … just in case. 
 
On to Chapter 11.

Quarterdeck Cannon
 
No lengthy explanations, the quarterdeck cannon were made just as the main deck guns detailed in an earlier post.

The carriages were freed of char and air brushed.
 
One difference from the main guns are the cannon; before being air brushed with Ironwood Black I elected to replace the thin resin trunnions with 19 gauge wire by drilling through the guns using my mill. Or perhaps I should say the decision was made for me with at least three of the guns already having the plastic ones broken off while still in the bag. No doubt carelessness on my part.
 
The production line is ready.


The completed guns sitting (not glued, that comes later) on the q-deck. I always build one extra … just in case. 
 
On to Chapter 11.

It looks so nice, really well done. Your patience and effort to learn the new skills to make this is quite impressive.  

It looks so nice, really well done. Your patience and effort to learn the new skills to make this is quite impressive.  

Thanks for the nice comments.
 
The weathering powder rally does make a big difference, especially on metal and wood meant to be metal, like my stove. Air brushing too makes for a nicer look on things like cannon carriages.  I had no idea how to use one, but with guidance from here on the forum I sorted it out.  Amazon has some nice, reasonably priced setups.  My advice, don’t go too cheap.  A good brush and an actual compressor is worth the extra money. The only down side is the brush takes about as long to clean as it does to paint, for me anyway.  

It looks so nice, really well done. Your patience and effort to learn the new skills to make this is quite impressive.  

Thanks for the nice comments.
 
The weathering powder rally does make a big difference, especially on metal and wood meant to be metal, like my stove. Air brushing too makes for a nicer look on things like cannon carriages.  I had no idea how to use one, but with guidance from here on the forum I sorted it out.  Amazon has some nice, reasonably priced setups.  My advice, don’t go too cheap.  A good brush and an actual compressor is worth the extra money. The only down side is the brush takes about as long to clean as it does to paint, for me anyway.  

Hello everyone:
This seems to be the day to start Speedwell logs.  
I received my first 2 chapters about a week ago.  I don't think I will be buildings as fast as some others but I have started and we are off & running.

My only thought so far is when attaching the two curved pieces together make sure they are as exact as possible.  Mine were off a little, and then you have to sand them to get a good fit with the stem assembly.  And trust me - you don't want to sand any mating surfaces you don't have to...

I think I finally got a decent fit.  It took a lot of extra time but worth it. Now a little extra sanding for the figurehead and the fancy piece on the top.  Then it will be time to get the plans out and lay the keel.  
I also hope we can start a group build.  It might encourage a few others to join us. 
All for now
Steve