glbarlow

It’s your first model, cut all that junk line off and re-rig it with better line and blocks from Syren or Ropes of scale. The practice and second run through will be good experience. There’s no hope for what’s on there now. 

It’s your first model, cut all that junk line off and re-rig it with better line and blocks from Syren or Ropes of scale. The practice and second run through will be good experience. There’s no hope for what’s on there now. 

Day and night opinions (which is what they are) on this topic, and likely a hundred or so different posts on the topic as a search would show.
 
I ALWAYS use CA for hull planking. Over a dozen models now, some 20+ years old and never had and still don't have any issue with the quality of my planking or its durability. Higher quality CA like Bob Smith Industries, (they aren't all the same) does not have excessive fumes or strong smell. In fact Bob Smith Industries has a version of CA that is odorless entirely. 
 
Bottom line is use what works for you, as it seems everyone replying to this post has.  It annoys me when instead of telling you their preference and reasons for it they denigrate someone else's.  Why not just share why your method works for you.
 
CA works great, it's the right choice for me. I guess other glues must too, but I've never seen reason to try them.

Channels and Gangways
 
An update as I near the end of chapter 11:

My friend is making a stand for me. He’s an artist, he selected this particular wood piece of Wenge because the model will appear it’s  ‘breaking the water.’  This is not something I’d ever thought of, but pretty cool. The color of the Wenge with its  elm inlay, especially once finish is applied, is a nice accent to the model. Good to have artist friends with big tools.


The channels are complete port and starboard. The stress of cutting away mounting and cutting into friezes to fit the curved ends of the channels is behind me. 
 
I’m happy with the ebony wood dye used on the deadeyes with its result of the boxwood texture showing through. They stand out in their own right and are a nice compliment to the rest of the model.

I have completed the gangways, as did Chuck I elected to position the knees after attaching the long gang board. I was concerned about midshipmen falling overboard but having just received the latest Sea Watch Rodgers collection of 5th rates (given my Not vast nautical knowledge). I saw ropes and posts were mounted along the rail. Not something I’d want seen on our Admiralty board model, but I feel better about the midshipmen now. 

The newel posts and their fancy rail are yet another signature element of the model. For a level fit to match up to the newel post my lower rail is mounted to the breast rail post rather than its rail, plus I like the look. As Chuck notes, getting the post level on multiple planes, especially given the platform follows the sheer and camber of the deck, took some patience and a jig or two.

A major milestone: With the addition of the ladders and installing the elm tree pumps I completed more than a year ago my Winchelsea is complete between the bulwarks (short of my gluing on the remainder of the guns).
 
Work continues. Thanks for stopping by.

If only we could outsource char removal. Hope you’re doing ok. 

If only we could outsource char removal. Hope you’re doing ok. 

That company would be very very rich! And I would a steady customer. 🤣

Thank you Glenn and Chuck. Also, thanks for the likes!
 
Sorry for the delay getting back but like a lot of us as we age, we start falling apart and have to be put back together. On the mend and all is good, but work will be slow for the next few weeks. Before I went down for repairs, I completed the deadwood and wedges as well as added all the simulated bolts on the keel.
 
Over time I will have a lot of sanding and cleaning char in my future.

Call or email Donna to see what she has left in inventory. 

Call or email Donna to see what she has left in inventory. 

Channels and Gangways
 
An update as I near the end of chapter 11:

My friend is making a stand for me. He’s an artist, he selected this particular wood piece of Wenge because the model will appear it’s  ‘breaking the water.’  This is not something I’d ever thought of, but pretty cool. The color of the Wenge with its  elm inlay, especially once finish is applied, is a nice accent to the model. Good to have artist friends with big tools.


The channels are complete port and starboard. The stress of cutting away mounting and cutting into friezes to fit the curved ends of the channels is behind me. 
 
I’m happy with the ebony wood dye used on the deadeyes with its result of the boxwood texture showing through. They stand out in their own right and are a nice compliment to the rest of the model.

I have completed the gangways, as did Chuck I elected to position the knees after attaching the long gang board. I was concerned about midshipmen falling overboard but having just received the latest Sea Watch Rodgers collection of 5th rates (given my Not vast nautical knowledge). I saw ropes and posts were mounted along the rail. Not something I’d want seen on our Admiralty board model, but I feel better about the midshipmen now. 

The newel posts and their fancy rail are yet another signature element of the model. For a level fit to match up to the newel post my lower rail is mounted to the breast rail post rather than its rail, plus I like the look. As Chuck notes, getting the post level on multiple planes, especially given the platform follows the sheer and camber of the deck, took some patience and a jig or two.

A major milestone: With the addition of the ladders and installing the elm tree pumps I completed more than a year ago my Winchelsea is complete between the bulwarks (short of my gluing on the remainder of the guns).
 
Work continues. Thanks for stopping by.

Channels
 
Initial progress on channels, a really fun opportunity to cut away some of that moulding I so lovingly added a long time ago.

But before starting that I decided to bite the bullet to remove and replace the port lids. As I’ve mentioned a few times I have broken and glued back these lids too many times to count, all of course due to carelessness. It took some delicate work to remove them and the hinges without damaging the hull, especially the friezes.
 
This time I used the wider, thicker hinges @Chuck offers. Unlike I failed to do before I kept these movable rather than fixed.  I can now display these more like the right most port. My lesson learned is to install the port with both ends of the hinge on the lid, not one part on the hull and the other on the lid then threading the wire to connect them. This time I was able to keep the hinge tight enough to hold position. My first effort ended up with ‘floppy’ lids so I had to glue them into a fixed position, and by consequence made them vulnerable to my careless movements.
 
Though it took several days it was a good call to take this step back and get a better result. I’m happy to report the friezes all survived as did my sanity.

Well the friezes survived around the ports anyway.  Cutting away moulding the exact width and shape needed for the channels was pucker time, go slow, measure once, twice, three times before cutting, did I mention go slow. @FrankWouts was wise to factor this in at the time he installed his moulding, wish I’d thought of that.
 
I did remove and replace the frieze below the fore channel, it didn't prove necessary for the main and mizzen.

The beauty of this forum is the willingness to share means and methods. Something I always try to do and certainly take advantage of myself. This surgical tool, for podiatry I think, is absolutely perfect. My thanks to @Blue Ensign for sharing it. Two choices for replaceable blades: The wider chisel blade is thin, sharp and the perfect width for pushing through the moulding, keeping a clean edge on the remaining moulding either side. The smaller blade that opens up the slot for the strap perfectly. I have used this tool repeatedly for many varied purposes when my even my mini-Veritas chisels (@DelF) prove to large. A multi purpose sharp, light tool for model work. I have not yet tried them on my feet.
 
I have a wood chisel set for my lathe that until now were a bit too large to be useful. However one of those with a tight, sharp curved edge was perfect to notch and shape the moulding to match the channel. You can see the wood handle in the background, I failed to include it in the photo.
 
The tall height gauge, courtesy of @Stuntflyer, was very helpful in keeping the channels level with the waterline, I added the bubble level to make sure it was first level itself.  I need a better platform for it than a bowl, but it does the job. The tumblehome of the hull distorts what level seems just looking at it, the gauge brings it to actual level.

Long ago I acquired ebony deadeyes I wanted to use, however the center diameter of these proved too large for Chuck’s nice acrylic strops. So after splitting a few to learn that I went to Chuck’s make your own 5mm and 6mm versions. I still had a desire to go with ebony, but didn’t like my result just painting them black so I went with this ebony wood dye. With the thickness of water it takes 4 coats (and maybe still one more) to get them there, I like the  resulting look. It’s hard to tell in the photos but the boxwood grain still shows through and they look more “natural,” not perfectly black. The little paint stand is a strip of wood with the mill cutting a groove its length.
 
I didn’t take any photos of constructing the actual channels. Not much to it, just removing char, minimal shaping, and gluing together the three layers, and of course multiple coats of WOP.



So here where it stands. I’m going to wait until I have all the 5 and 6 mm deadeyes finished and both port and starboard channels installed before finishing these (including straightening the smiling faces) to ensure uniformity. Not too much to go on chapter 11 after that, I’ve been working on the gangways, posts and ladders in parallel to the channels so it's fitting and mounting them. I’m of mixed thoughts on the swivel guns - so decision deferred for now.
 
As always thanks for stopping by - I appreciate your taking the time with your likes and comments.

Fenders and Chesstrees
 
Keeping with shorter posts: Added the fenders and chesstrees to the hull.

Each consist of a center and two outer layers glued together providing a nice dimensional look. After removing char the center piece is tapered from top to bottom and the outer edge slightly rounded before the two very thin are added (amazing to have layered wood on this thin a sheet of wood). With great trepidation I removed the center moulding. Then came a lot of careful shaping to conform these to my particular hull - both patience and time are required following the firm rule of  while you can remove wood, you can’t put it back.

I tried printing the frieze on tissue paper, really I tried. While successful the color and texture just weren’t a good match for me, probably the wrong tissue paper or I need more practice doing it. I was however successful using the original paper printed frieze. Ample use of the same glue stick used for the hull softens the paper and allowed me to get a match. With Chuck’s suggested tooth pick approach I was able to guide the paper into the groove created by the three pieces.
 
I also rounded out the sheave on the chess tree before applying the outer pieces along with a little 7mm lead pencil.

I’ve still not mounted the waist cannon, but set them for the photo. The addition of the fenders, chess tree, and ladder really bring the hull alive.  My one regret is while the boxwood for the ladder match, the AYC for the fenders are way whiter than the hull despited several coats of WOP. I kinda wish they had been boxwood as well to match the moulding.
 
I note however, at this point the hull planking is near three years old. I am confident in time the fenders and chess tree, like the hull, will mellow and blend in.
 
I’m moving onto the waists platforms and will finish chapter 11 with the channels. Thanks for stopping by.

Channels and Gangways
 
An update as I near the end of chapter 11:

My friend is making a stand for me. He’s an artist, he selected this particular wood piece of Wenge because the model will appear it’s  ‘breaking the water.’  This is not something I’d ever thought of, but pretty cool. The color of the Wenge with its  elm inlay, especially once finish is applied, is a nice accent to the model. Good to have artist friends with big tools.


The channels are complete port and starboard. The stress of cutting away mounting and cutting into friezes to fit the curved ends of the channels is behind me. 
 
I’m happy with the ebony wood dye used on the deadeyes with its result of the boxwood texture showing through. They stand out in their own right and are a nice compliment to the rest of the model.

I have completed the gangways, as did Chuck I elected to position the knees after attaching the long gang board. I was concerned about midshipmen falling overboard but having just received the latest Sea Watch Rodgers collection of 5th rates (given my Not vast nautical knowledge). I saw ropes and posts were mounted along the rail. Not something I’d want seen on our Admiralty board model, but I feel better about the midshipmen now. 

The newel posts and their fancy rail are yet another signature element of the model. For a level fit to match up to the newel post my lower rail is mounted to the breast rail post rather than its rail, plus I like the look. As Chuck notes, getting the post level on multiple planes, especially given the platform follows the sheer and camber of the deck, took some patience and a jig or two.

A major milestone: With the addition of the ladders and installing the elm tree pumps I completed more than a year ago my Winchelsea is complete between the bulwarks (short of my gluing on the remainder of the guns).
 
Work continues. Thanks for stopping by.

Thanks Rusty, much appreciated from someone’s who’s work I’ve admired for a very long time. 

Quarterdeck Cannon
 
No lengthy explanations, the quarterdeck cannon were made just as the main deck guns detailed in an earlier post.

The carriages were freed of char and air brushed.
 
One difference from the main guns are the cannon; before being air brushed with Ironwood Black I elected to replace the thin resin trunnions with 19 gauge wire by drilling through the guns using my mill. Or perhaps I should say the decision was made for me with at least three of the guns already having the plastic ones broken off while still in the bag. No doubt carelessness on my part.
 
The production line is ready.


The completed guns sitting (not glued, that comes later) on the q-deck. I always build one extra … just in case. 
 
On to Chapter 11.

As always your craftsmanship is first rate and that base will be fabulous. 

Well done JJ, amazing design work! I can't imagine a hike to the Himalayas parking lot let along any further.  Be careful and enjoy the trip. Having just "located" the channels your design element marking them and making them easier to install is a excellent feature.

Thank you Chuck, for your support along the way and for this fine model.

Channels and Gangways
 
An update as I near the end of chapter 11:

My friend is making a stand for me. He’s an artist, he selected this particular wood piece of Wenge because the model will appear it’s  ‘breaking the water.’  This is not something I’d ever thought of, but pretty cool. The color of the Wenge with its  elm inlay, especially once finish is applied, is a nice accent to the model. Good to have artist friends with big tools.


The channels are complete port and starboard. The stress of cutting away mounting and cutting into friezes to fit the curved ends of the channels is behind me. 
 
I’m happy with the ebony wood dye used on the deadeyes with its result of the boxwood texture showing through. They stand out in their own right and are a nice compliment to the rest of the model.

I have completed the gangways, as did Chuck I elected to position the knees after attaching the long gang board. I was concerned about midshipmen falling overboard but having just received the latest Sea Watch Rodgers collection of 5th rates (given my Not vast nautical knowledge). I saw ropes and posts were mounted along the rail. Not something I’d want seen on our Admiralty board model, but I feel better about the midshipmen now. 

The newel posts and their fancy rail are yet another signature element of the model. For a level fit to match up to the newel post my lower rail is mounted to the breast rail post rather than its rail, plus I like the look. As Chuck notes, getting the post level on multiple planes, especially given the platform follows the sheer and camber of the deck, took some patience and a jig or two.

A major milestone: With the addition of the ladders and installing the elm tree pumps I completed more than a year ago my Winchelsea is complete between the bulwarks (short of my gluing on the remainder of the guns).
 
Work continues. Thanks for stopping by.

Channels and Gangways
 
An update as I near the end of chapter 11:

My friend is making a stand for me. He’s an artist, he selected this particular wood piece of Wenge because the model will appear it’s  ‘breaking the water.’  This is not something I’d ever thought of, but pretty cool. The color of the Wenge with its  elm inlay, especially once finish is applied, is a nice accent to the model. Good to have artist friends with big tools.


The channels are complete port and starboard. The stress of cutting away mounting and cutting into friezes to fit the curved ends of the channels is behind me. 
 
I’m happy with the ebony wood dye used on the deadeyes with its result of the boxwood texture showing through. They stand out in their own right and are a nice compliment to the rest of the model.

I have completed the gangways, as did Chuck I elected to position the knees after attaching the long gang board. I was concerned about midshipmen falling overboard but having just received the latest Sea Watch Rodgers collection of 5th rates (given my Not vast nautical knowledge). I saw ropes and posts were mounted along the rail. Not something I’d want seen on our Admiralty board model, but I feel better about the midshipmen now. 

The newel posts and their fancy rail are yet another signature element of the model. For a level fit to match up to the newel post my lower rail is mounted to the breast rail post rather than its rail, plus I like the look. As Chuck notes, getting the post level on multiple planes, especially given the platform follows the sheer and camber of the deck, took some patience and a jig or two.

A major milestone: With the addition of the ladders and installing the elm tree pumps I completed more than a year ago my Winchelsea is complete between the bulwarks (short of my gluing on the remainder of the guns).
 
Work continues. Thanks for stopping by.

Channels and Gangways
 
An update as I near the end of chapter 11:

My friend is making a stand for me. He’s an artist, he selected this particular wood piece of Wenge because the model will appear it’s  ‘breaking the water.’  This is not something I’d ever thought of, but pretty cool. The color of the Wenge with its  elm inlay, especially once finish is applied, is a nice accent to the model. Good to have artist friends with big tools.


The channels are complete port and starboard. The stress of cutting away mounting and cutting into friezes to fit the curved ends of the channels is behind me. 
 
I’m happy with the ebony wood dye used on the deadeyes with its result of the boxwood texture showing through. They stand out in their own right and are a nice compliment to the rest of the model.

I have completed the gangways, as did Chuck I elected to position the knees after attaching the long gang board. I was concerned about midshipmen falling overboard but having just received the latest Sea Watch Rodgers collection of 5th rates (given my Not vast nautical knowledge). I saw ropes and posts were mounted along the rail. Not something I’d want seen on our Admiralty board model, but I feel better about the midshipmen now. 

The newel posts and their fancy rail are yet another signature element of the model. For a level fit to match up to the newel post my lower rail is mounted to the breast rail post rather than its rail, plus I like the look. As Chuck notes, getting the post level on multiple planes, especially given the platform follows the sheer and camber of the deck, took some patience and a jig or two.

A major milestone: With the addition of the ladders and installing the elm tree pumps I completed more than a year ago my Winchelsea is complete between the bulwarks (short of my gluing on the remainder of the guns).
 
Work continues. Thanks for stopping by.

Boarding Ladder
 
I have a friend making me a display stand, he’s an artist with “big wood.” I can’t wait to set Winchelsea on her final home.

I had to turn her over to get the final fitting on the three cradles she’ll sit on - something I should have done much sooner. So of course something broke. Fun it was clearing, cleaning, repainting, 18/0 and 10/0 spotter and shader brushes, and reinstalling this piece, or pieces as they became, (especially the tiny metal braces on the inner edges) with everything around it complete and completely in the way. A lot of patience and slow going, In the end all is ok again.

I made some decisions installing the boarding ladder. First was to remove the complete molding rather than try and cut into it.
 

I also elected to scrape a pattern similar to the moulding. Then by sanding a 67.5 angle on each side and a reverse 67.5 on the re-cut to fit separated molding I could create an integrated look for the anchor step. Anchor step because I would space the rest based on the fit of this step within the moulding.  I used a round file and 400 grit to round the pattern into the side of each step after scraping them from a length of boxwood strip. I kinda like the result.

I printed the frieze pattern on tissue paper, a first for me. I just didn’t like the outcome of wrapping the top step, partially because I couldn’t get a clean look on the sides, admittedly I didn’t try very hard. While the wrapped step looks great I preferred a natural look atop the frieze. I split the distance between the top and second step for spacing. I lined all the steps up with the right edge of the port, it being perpendicular to the actual water line (the photo isn’t straight on so the perspective is off).

Mini-me had a new view of the ship standing here on the ladder. He's to scale so I like the perspective he provides to size and space. The plans show 6 steps with the last one on the black strake. I measured out how that would work on my particular hull, the spacing would have looked awkward with the top two steps fitted as they needed to be. So I reduced the spacing for the remaining four steps for a consistent look.

But I worked it out.  After measuring, cutting and re-cutting multiple test spacers (2.23mm wound up to be the right gap) to allow a seventh step sitting in the middle of the black strake. 

Ahh symmetry … and some drama. Determining the jigs by measuring and remeasuring and making the steps was fun. Removing the moulding without taking the frieze with it, and with  a #11 blade scratching into the multiple coats of WOP to create a bondable surface for the glue provided a few deep breath moments. I used CA, applied with a straight pin onto the step with just enough to adhere without spillover onto the hull.
 
It all turned out ok. Thanks for stopping by.

Fenders and Chesstrees
 
Keeping with shorter posts: Added the fenders and chesstrees to the hull.

Each consist of a center and two outer layers glued together providing a nice dimensional look. After removing char the center piece is tapered from top to bottom and the outer edge slightly rounded before the two very thin are added (amazing to have layered wood on this thin a sheet of wood). With great trepidation I removed the center moulding. Then came a lot of careful shaping to conform these to my particular hull - both patience and time are required following the firm rule of  while you can remove wood, you can’t put it back.

I tried printing the frieze on tissue paper, really I tried. While successful the color and texture just weren’t a good match for me, probably the wrong tissue paper or I need more practice doing it. I was however successful using the original paper printed frieze. Ample use of the same glue stick used for the hull softens the paper and allowed me to get a match. With Chuck’s suggested tooth pick approach I was able to guide the paper into the groove created by the three pieces.
 
I also rounded out the sheave on the chess tree before applying the outer pieces along with a little 7mm lead pencil.

I’ve still not mounted the waist cannon, but set them for the photo. The addition of the fenders, chess tree, and ladder really bring the hull alive.  My one regret is while the boxwood for the ladder match, the AYC for the fenders are way whiter than the hull despited several coats of WOP. I kinda wish they had been boxwood as well to match the moulding.
 
I note however, at this point the hull planking is near three years old. I am confident in time the fenders and chess tree, like the hull, will mellow and blend in.
 
I’m moving onto the waists platforms and will finish chapter 11 with the channels. Thanks for stopping by.

Channels
 
Initial progress on channels, a really fun opportunity to cut away some of that moulding I so lovingly added a long time ago.

But before starting that I decided to bite the bullet to remove and replace the port lids. As I’ve mentioned a few times I have broken and glued back these lids too many times to count, all of course due to carelessness. It took some delicate work to remove them and the hinges without damaging the hull, especially the friezes.
 
This time I used the wider, thicker hinges @Chuck offers. Unlike I failed to do before I kept these movable rather than fixed.  I can now display these more like the right most port. My lesson learned is to install the port with both ends of the hinge on the lid, not one part on the hull and the other on the lid then threading the wire to connect them. This time I was able to keep the hinge tight enough to hold position. My first effort ended up with ‘floppy’ lids so I had to glue them into a fixed position, and by consequence made them vulnerable to my careless movements.
 
Though it took several days it was a good call to take this step back and get a better result. I’m happy to report the friezes all survived as did my sanity.

Well the friezes survived around the ports anyway.  Cutting away moulding the exact width and shape needed for the channels was pucker time, go slow, measure once, twice, three times before cutting, did I mention go slow. @FrankWouts was wise to factor this in at the time he installed his moulding, wish I’d thought of that.
 
I did remove and replace the frieze below the fore channel, it didn't prove necessary for the main and mizzen.

The beauty of this forum is the willingness to share means and methods. Something I always try to do and certainly take advantage of myself. This surgical tool, for podiatry I think, is absolutely perfect. My thanks to @Blue Ensign for sharing it. Two choices for replaceable blades: The wider chisel blade is thin, sharp and the perfect width for pushing through the moulding, keeping a clean edge on the remaining moulding either side. The smaller blade that opens up the slot for the strap perfectly. I have used this tool repeatedly for many varied purposes when my even my mini-Veritas chisels (@DelF) prove to large. A multi purpose sharp, light tool for model work. I have not yet tried them on my feet.
 
I have a wood chisel set for my lathe that until now were a bit too large to be useful. However one of those with a tight, sharp curved edge was perfect to notch and shape the moulding to match the channel. You can see the wood handle in the background, I failed to include it in the photo.
 
The tall height gauge, courtesy of @Stuntflyer, was very helpful in keeping the channels level with the waterline, I added the bubble level to make sure it was first level itself.  I need a better platform for it than a bowl, but it does the job. The tumblehome of the hull distorts what level seems just looking at it, the gauge brings it to actual level.

Long ago I acquired ebony deadeyes I wanted to use, however the center diameter of these proved too large for Chuck’s nice acrylic strops. So after splitting a few to learn that I went to Chuck’s make your own 5mm and 6mm versions. I still had a desire to go with ebony, but didn’t like my result just painting them black so I went with this ebony wood dye. With the thickness of water it takes 4 coats (and maybe still one more) to get them there, I like the  resulting look. It’s hard to tell in the photos but the boxwood grain still shows through and they look more “natural,” not perfectly black. The little paint stand is a strip of wood with the mill cutting a groove its length.
 
I didn’t take any photos of constructing the actual channels. Not much to it, just removing char, minimal shaping, and gluing together the three layers, and of course multiple coats of WOP.



So here where it stands. I’m going to wait until I have all the 5 and 6 mm deadeyes finished and both port and starboard channels installed before finishing these (including straightening the smiling faces) to ensure uniformity. Not too much to go on chapter 11 after that, I’ve been working on the gangways, posts and ladders in parallel to the channels so it's fitting and mounting them. I’m of mixed thoughts on the swivel guns - so decision deferred for now.
 
As always thanks for stopping by - I appreciate your taking the time with your likes and comments.