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Sonofagun reacted to Jeronimo in NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
Hello bitao.
You are doing a great job, very nice photos of the construction progress.
Compliement.
Karl
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Sonofagun reacted to mtaylor in NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
One of our members whom I haven't seen posting of late has this for his signature: "Do each piece as a model and at the end of the day, you have created more models than many do in a lifetime.". I may not have it correct but it has the thought.
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Sonofagun reacted to Bitao in NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
The biggest lesson that this forum has taught me is that each of us, regardless of level, is working hard at every detail. Even if we don’t see it in the end, taking things seriously is something we have to stick with. So I slowed down the shooting and tried to make the details as perfect as possible. Thank you for your support and attention to my friends!
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Sonofagun reacted to Bitao in NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
Because I’ve been so busy with my friends’custom tools lately, it’s obviously been a lot slower. Thank you all for your attention and affection. Before I made these parts, I modified the sampler to change the standard width from 15 cm to 10 cm so that it would be able to detect the interior of the hull for accurate sampling.
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Sonofagun reacted to Bitao in NAIAD 1797 by Bitao - 1:60
I like model making because my work is very easy and I have something to do in my spare time, which satisfies the pleasure of making things by hand. The reason why I like MSW, it not only let me learn more things, but also let me see the gap with the master and have the goal of effort; at least here many people work seriously, honest attitude is very worthy of my admiration! At the same time, I also showed my ability to more friends in the world. I never take part in any big games in China. It doesn't mean anything to me. I just want to have a good time!
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Sonofagun reacted to Ryland Craze in Speedwell 752 by Greg Herbert - 1:48 scale - the saga continues
Beautiful model. Greg, Please post some pictures of the carvings.
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Sonofagun got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Rattlesnake 1780 by captgino - 1/4" scale (1/48) - Harold Hahn Method
On my Hahn RATTLESNAKE, I placed the first and last whole frame the first thing. Supported them to make certain they are 90 degrees from the frame jig. Then you can place the keel,WITHOUT GLUING IT, To help keep the frame spacing from top to bottom. I don't know if you are already doing this. Just thought I would throw the suggestion out there.
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Sonofagun got a reaction from Pogy647 in Sanding off laser burn from bulkheads?
When faced with this problem previously, someone mentioned that scraping the char away with a single edge razor works well and removes very little wood.
Tried it. It is a very good and efficient method. May seem a little daunting at first, but really, it is easy and takes almost no time at all. I did not, however, try gluing the charred parts together. I will be interested to hear the results of the tests.
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Sonofagun got a reaction from mtaylor in Rattlesnake 1780 by captgino - 1/4" scale (1/48) - Harold Hahn Method
Yes, I did assemble the entire keel, stem and aft deadwood and used it to help keep the frame spacing. I think the trickiest part of the hull was assembling the hawse pieces. Hahn’s drawings do a very decent job of preparing the individual pieces.
i got very lucky and only had to redo them once! The model is a great deal of fun and will keep you occupied for hours. There were a few times when I would get frustrated and need to take a break. But you get hooked by the bug...
If you haven’t purchased THE FULLY FRAMED SHIP MODEL series of books by David Antscherl and Greg Herbert, I would highly recommend it! At least to start with the first book of the series. It has an unbelievable amount of information that is useful for any ship modeler. Very well written. Just a suggestion. I wish I had purchased and read them much sooner than I did!
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Sonofagun got a reaction from JpR62 in HMS Enterprise by AlexBaranov - 1:36
What a wonderful model! It makes me believe I am looking at a model made when the ship was being built! Love the colors you are using. The carvings are beautiful!
Very clean lines. Attractive ship. I can see why someone of your talent would be drawn to modeling her. Great job!
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Sonofagun got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Enterprise by AlexBaranov - 1:36
What a wonderful model! It makes me believe I am looking at a model made when the ship was being built! Love the colors you are using. The carvings are beautiful!
Very clean lines. Attractive ship. I can see why someone of your talent would be drawn to modeling her. Great job!
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Sonofagun got a reaction from mtaylor in Rattlesnake 1780 by captgino - 1/4" scale (1/48) - Harold Hahn Method
On my Hahn RATTLESNAKE, I placed the first and last whole frame the first thing. Supported them to make certain they are 90 degrees from the frame jig. Then you can place the keel,WITHOUT GLUING IT, To help keep the frame spacing from top to bottom. I don't know if you are already doing this. Just thought I would throw the suggestion out there.
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Sonofagun got a reaction from JesseLee in Working Comfortably on Upper Rigging
This is the picture. Kind of self evident on construction. The support boards , supporting the building board, are 1/2 inch oak. The slotted boards for tilting purposes are 1/8th inch plywood. I put a little bar soap on the
upright guides to help them slide better ( the uprights coming up from the base) The base is wide and more substantial with weight to be stable.
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Sonofagun got a reaction from mtaylor in Hi from the north
Welcome Torstein!
I am sure you are finding there is much to learn in ship modeling. You can learn a great deal by reading the building logs on this site. The members here are terrific and are very willing to help. Do not hesitate to ask any questions you may have.
Bryan
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Sonofagun got a reaction from geoff in Hi from the north
Welcome Torstein!
I am sure you are finding there is much to learn in ship modeling. You can learn a great deal by reading the building logs on this site. The members here are terrific and are very willing to help. Do not hesitate to ask any questions you may have.
Bryan
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Sonofagun got a reaction from thibaultron in Gun Port Lids
This may be a REAL STRETCH but, any chance the bulwarks were painted red to cut down on night blindness? On modern day boats, the gauges are backlit in red light because a typical white light is a little more difficult for the eyes to accommodate when going back to the darkness of night. Any reflected light from the bulwarks would reflect in red, being easier to then peer into the night. Kinda out there, but, who knows?
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Sonofagun got a reaction from Canute in Gun Port Lids
This may be a REAL STRETCH but, any chance the bulwarks were painted red to cut down on night blindness? On modern day boats, the gauges are backlit in red light because a typical white light is a little more difficult for the eyes to accommodate when going back to the darkness of night. Any reflected light from the bulwarks would reflect in red, being easier to then peer into the night. Kinda out there, but, who knows?
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Sonofagun got a reaction from BANYAN in Gun Port Lids
This may be a REAL STRETCH but, any chance the bulwarks were painted red to cut down on night blindness? On modern day boats, the gauges are backlit in red light because a typical white light is a little more difficult for the eyes to accommodate when going back to the darkness of night. Any reflected light from the bulwarks would reflect in red, being easier to then peer into the night. Kinda out there, but, who knows?
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Sonofagun reacted to tlevine in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
I can't believe it has been over a month since I posted to the buildlog. Unfortunately, I have not had much time to work on Atalanta.
The chesstree and the fenders are relatively simple structures, being essentially a straight piece of wood with a taper towards the water. Make this taper first on an overly thick piece of wood and then sand the inside of the piece to match the curvature of the hull. There is a groove scored on the outboard side. Since the width of the piece decreases inferiorly, each groove must be cut in separately rather than together with a scraper. I used a single tooth scraper to make the groove and then turned the piece around to cut the other side. The chesstree had a sheave built into it. I simulated the sheave by drilling holes at the top and bottom of the sheave opening and then used a chisel to carve the sheave.
The next step (no pun intended) was to make the six steps. These were made up by scraping a molding for the mid-portion and then laminating three strips of wood, two on top and one on the bottom to the molding. The sides of the steps were shaped with needle files and an 11 blade.
The steps fixed to the wale were painted black. The frieze was carried over the outer surface of the top step. I left the top of the step solid blue.
The main and mizzen channels were added next. These are pinned and epoxied to the hull since, in my past experience, they are easily knocked off. The ironwork for the channels is next.
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Sonofagun reacted to tlevine in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
The rest of the cannon have been rigged and mounted!
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Sonofagun reacted to tlevine in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
Sharp eyes, Elijah. Thank you Johann.
I was able to finish up one of the cannon today. Only seven more to go!