Jeronimo

Finish the top deck beam machining. Using waterproof latex bonding, interface to do a black line treatment to increase the effect. Use for at least 48 hours after the hot bending treatment. I can have a rest these days. 
 

Due to my very limited knowledge, and may not have a good understanding of ED drawings and design concepts and instructions, resulting in the previous completed with the chain pump connected to the“Axis tree” manufacturing error. I may have“Simplified” it for a lot of people. Thanks to Greg for correcting this in time and providing me with detailed drawings that gave me an intuitive understanding of their basic structure. His rigorous attitude and the spirit of unremitting pursuit again let me admire unceasingly! This made me decide that I had to scrap the original result and re-make this part, even though it was considered perfect by many and liked it. Maybe the improvements you see now are still not perfect, but I have done my best. In my opinion, every outstanding person is trying to achieve every detail, it is this forum for everyone the biggest harvest. It's also a reality I have to face in order to make progress. Here, I have to thank each and every one of them for providing me with the information and correcting my mistakes. Thank you!
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 

Hello Doris.
Pictures of Ivan Trtanj and Royal Caroline.
Regards Karl

Thank you for many comments.
 
Hi Mark P,
In fact, I have already prepared a step-by-step manual that explains the steps from learning software to actual creation work. It seems to be the best for learning this method. Please wait until I finish writing this topic on how to make it open.
 
Hi jaager,
This is an easy and much faster drawing method as you say to create accurate shapes at scaled size, correction drawings according to various processing machines, etc.
 
The number of lines for inside shape is as good as 10 when creating the outer shape. Actually, the lines drawn with the outer shape are copied and shifted the control point inward by the thickness according to the height.
 
In case the laser machine I am using in rental shop, the data machine recognize can still be used in Illustrator format. Therefore, there is no malfunction due to conversion. As far as I know, laser cutters seem to be able to use 2D graphics data such as Illustrator, CorelDraw, etc. as they are.
 
If this can be said to be a development product, I want to have ownership. However, the purpose of my posting on this topic is because I want anyone to use this technology openly. I think there are some things that need to be addressed for that. I'm old enough.
 
At first, I was skeptical about the use of lasers, especially for scratch builds, but since the advantages are much greater than the disadvantages, I put them to practical use after considering how to avoid the disadvantages.
Workarounds will be described soon in this topic.
 
I actually designed a part equivalent to one structural model kit, processed it with laser cut, and am currently in building for verification. I have cut over 1,500pcs of parts within 8 hours. This picture is hull made parts by laser cut (just lightly sanded to remove burn mark). Also the cross section that took out some of it is my thumbnail.

 
To evaluate this method, please read this topic until it is over. I hope it will meet your expectations.
 
Hi PietFriet,
I have no knowledge of Delftship at all, but I think it can be used if it is software with similar functionality to the 3D graphics software I use. It is a free-form surface creation function by Bezier curve and numerical control function for dimensions and coordinates.
 
Thanks again,
Kiyoo
 
 

Hello everyone,
 I am posting for the first time. Please forgive me for my uncertain English.
 With regard to creating the precise 3D graphics images,　I am far from Denis's amazing graphics in Swan class 3D modeling. However, using a similar 3D graphics software, my attempt here is to create line data, i.e. frame drawings, from that 3D curved surface.
 Many 3D graphics software output formats are raster data, i.e. gathering of the small dots, but drawings such as CAD we use for part machining are consisting of vector data, i.e. line shapes represented by mathematical formulas. They are not compatible because they are completely different data.
 
 But looking at the graphics image like below, wouldn't you wish to make each shape of this frame to an accurate drawings? It is the software that I am using that enables it. In other topics such as “JPG to CAD” are also being discussed this kinds of matter, but I think this method introducing here is also one of the way to do it.
 
 If such an indefinite shape can be made into an accurate drawings, it is expected that drawings making and parts processing in scratch build will become much easier.
 I would like to introduce the outline of this method by continuous posting. I wish you will be interested in this approach.
 
Because it is difficult for me to provide instant English sentence according to the situation, I am preparing outline description as a document. To identify the document part and the daily conversation, I use document text with green color so that you can easily pick up only the document part.
 

Scale is the first factor to consider. Which part with what level of details is the second one and finally what wood to use?
 
Roughly, we can divide the carvings in 2 parts: human with fine details like the hands and face, decorations like flowers.
 
There are still many experiments to be made with different woods than boxwood. Pernambuco, ivory wood could be good examples of dense wood with fine grains which could be good. The safe way to use a wood that can take small details is to use boxwood.
Boxwood takes details of a figurehead as good as  at 1 /192 and 1/24 scale. But all the carvings do not need extreme fine details. Cherry is perfectly suitable for general carvings
 
One last point, Color, for this build, up to now, is made 100% from cherry wood. Ideally, I would like to use cherry for all the carvings, but unfortunately this wood will not take the fine details. The same thing is true for apple wood, I tried it for another figure head.
Ideally, I would prefer the figurehead  would be, also from the same wood, as the ret of the build: cherry wood, so that int this specific build, every part could be the same color.
 
There are many choices that a model ship builder has to deal with and the main rule should always be: it has to look harmonious. Tree nailing is a good example. It should be visible from close but not from far. If the contrat is too big, the eye will only see the nails, not the ship.
 
 
 
What is the last photo? Lighting in the working area is done by 8 LED lights mainly. Lat week, Our electricity company installed new thermostats, switches and electrical outlets. Every device is controllable via an app. I used the 4 electrical outlets to control the lighting with an Ipad, near the desk

Where you been Alex? The rest of us have been mesmerized by this log for months!

simply wonderful and perfect work!
Great!!

Wonderful detail and quality
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hello Bitao, 
 
Your work is impressive.  I have not seen anything like this on this forum.
 
What kind of tools / power tools you are using?
 
 
PS. I have bought also Naiad Frigate book previous week since I was trying to start my scratch build  but now seeing your result I started to be demotivated 🙂
 
 
 
 

Hi, Greg. I'm sorry to disappoint you. Usually when I'm in the process of machining, I rarely shoot to ensure concentration and safety. But there are a lot of people here who would rather see the process than the end result, and I'll try to do more in the future. In addition, some video software in China is restricted and can not be uploaded, limiting our communication. Some of the software in the country can't be uploaded. No one stays in my studio while I'm making it, and my wife is no exception. I prefer to do things alone and in peace.

Your work puts a smile on my face. I would love to see detailed photos of every step in the machining process. A YouTube video would be ideal but I'm sure very time consuming.

That's an excellent work!

This build is a joy to follow!   I am watching your setups on the mill as I am in the very beginnings of learning how to make the most of using one.  In  addition your setups on the building board are well thought out.  Lots of gizmos that should be on my Christmas list!!!! 
Allan

The schedule was suspended due to heavy work for more than a week. I spent a day installing these components today. These may not seem like much, but with fixed pins and rivets, precise positioning can be time-consuming.
 

 
 
 

Many thanks to Alan Cabrera for his detailed answers and for providing me with the location of the book. Perhaps I didn't make myself clear in the previous post: The image of the“L” formation was borrowed from Edward Tosti's process rather than my own. Because my knowledge of English is limited, mainly with the help of the Internet translator and we have limited communication, for drawings and books, I usually more directly use data and pictures to distinguish, so a lot of things aren't really understood; for me, reading and understanding is my biggest obstacle, and it takes me a lot more time and it's a lot harder than building parts, and it's a major factor in my progress. The following results were completed in two days according to my personal understanding. In fact, they were also made by the integral milling method after I scrapped two plans and six parts, to first ensure that the installation after the connection is stable and reliable (I rarely use glue to join metal parts of the method) . The finished product will be different from Edward Tosti's, but for me, with limited reading comprehension, it's safer to use the plan in the drawing, so I didn't use an“L” but instead a vertical pillar that looks like a pyramid. I'm sorry to disappoint you.
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 

Good morning.

The only plan is to have fun with its construction.
At first he will stay at my house.
Thank you.

Good morning.

Thank you for your love and praise. In order to show more detail, I spent some time taking photos and slowing down the process. Also in order to enjoy the process in their own production rather than make themselves very tired. The goal that was supposed to be accomplished by the end of this month will certainly not be met, so let's just go with the flow. .
 

 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 

Today, I did nothing but spend a whole day in the studio wondering about the true shape and size of a component! I have been faithful to the original design, but the following picture of the drive rod support in the complete set of books and drawings do not see the detailed description. I've been going over the EdT process again and again, and I still can't find the exact answer except for the following photo, which seems to me to be different from the drawing, as if it's a column instead of an“L” in the process picture. So I can't take the next step. Maybe this part isn't important? But I still hope that who knows friends can provide specific shape for my reference. Also to maximize the restoration of the model's true shape. Thanks for your help!
 

 

 

 
 

Hello,
we are back at the yard and I'm busy with the stanchions for the head rails. 😰

Hello,
it is done, the rails are ready. That was more work then expected and not so easy to do. The next things at my list, are the supporter knees for the cathead 

Good morning.

@jdbondy
@Gahm
Thank you for the interest and the nice comments.

Also thanks to all for the many LIKES.
 
Continuation: Catharpins - Trélingage 
As already explained some time ago in my construction report LINK, the shrouds of the topmasts and topgallant masts of the La Créole were also equipped with catharpins.
The following picture shows that the catharpin for the topallant shrouds is much smaller compared to the catharpin of the lower shrouds of the mainmast.
  
The next picture compares catharpin for the lower shrouds, the topmast shrouds and topgallant shrouds.

With a length of about 10 mm from a 0.25 mm served rope, the catharpin of the fore topgallant shrouds was then lashed in place.


    
The last pictures show the already lashed catharpins (0.35 mm served ropes) of the topmast shrouds. The comparison shows what happens if the length of the catharpins is not made accurately. When the shrouds are tightened, they give way and move outward. Therefore new catharpins had to be made again. 
      

 
To be continued ...