Jeronimo

Hi Alexandru.
 
Impeccable work, just outstanding!!!!!!
Congratulations
Sehr gute Arbeit.
Karl

@dvm27
Hi Greg,
I totally misunderstood that, sorry.
For these eye splices, I outlined the process in connection with the production of the stays in my analogue notebook a long time ago.
I hope this makes the process clear to you.

 
@jdbondy
Hi JD,
at least I was able to fully answer your original question with the sketch.
 
And here's a little update:
Continuation: Equipment of the lower yards - truss pendants and jackstags - Drosse d´une basse vergue et filière d`envergure
According to the announcement I made the truss pendants for the lower yards, especially for the main yard. The two-part truss pendant for the main yard consisted of two ropes, each with a diameter of 37 mm. Thimbles were spliced into the ends of the served ropes.
As can be seen in the following picture, these ropes were placed around the main yard and secured with a lashing.

The respective counterparts are then pulled through the thimbles later when assembling the yards on the model and further guided through the sheaves in the trestle trees in the direction of the mast cap and lashed there with a tackle.
In order to pull in the jackstays, the eyebolts that had been made some time ago had to be attached in advance. To ensure correct alignment of the holes for these bolts on the yard, I stretched a thread.

As with the Paris model, I also used served ropes for the jackstays. These were placed on the yard arm with the eye on grommet strop as abrasion protection.
With the thimbles integrated into the inner ends of the jackstay, the two halves can be connected in the middle of the yard with a lanyard and stiffened
Presently I am preparing making the footropes. Here, too, a few points of detail need to be clarified.
To be continued soon...

Continued: Fore yard- Studding sail boom irons - Cercle de bout-dehors de vergue
In the meantime, I also made the studding sail boom irons for the fore yard. In this context, I would like to go into a little more detail about the method of making the hinges for the two-piece mast clamps. In the studding sail boom irons for the fore yard, the hinge lugs were still bent. In the meantime, I have refined the method, as can be seen in the following photo collage. I think the pictures speak for themselves:

 
To finish this part, here's a picture with the studding sail boom irons for the fore yard already blackened.

 
Finally, only the studding sail boom irons for the main yard remain to be made. 
More about that soon ...
 

Continuation: Main topsail yard - studding sail boom iron - Cercle de bout-dehors de vergue
I continued with the studding sail boom irons for the main topsail yard. Since I had thoughtlessly started to make the rings, I forgot to make the bulge for the rollers. Since these rings were already soldered, I tried to solder on this bulge, which then also worked quite well and the even result became more precise.
As they say: the proof of the pudding is in the eating ...😁
 
The following picture shows the rings with the parts to be soldered on.

Here on this picture you can see my " soldering station ".


On the ceramic hole plate you can fix the parts to be soldered quite well.


The jeweler's saw is then used to remove the segments of the rings that are not necessary.


The next picture shows the drilling of the roller bearings with a 0.5 mm drill.


In the picture, all studding sail boom iron for the main topsail yard are united before blacking. The inside diameters of the spar hangers for the fore topsail yard are 2.7 mm, while those for the main topsail yard are 3.2 mm.


For blackening, I still use Brass Black, as I have had very good experiences with this agent. I coat the parts with a brush until they get the desired coloration. This proven method of working allows me to use the agent very sparingly.


The last two pictures show the studding sail boom irons already mounted to the main topsail yard.


Next, I make the irons for the fore yard. At the same time, I'm researching other equipment for the yards, such as attachment of the footropes, jackstays - yes or no, and so on.
See you soon ...
 

You bet! Rob Napier once referred to its bow as having the "Mother of all figureheads"!
 
If anyone can duplicate this, it would be Johann!

@shipman
This steady rest I have built with simple means.
With this I can position small ball bearings for round logs with diameters of 1 - 10 mm for support. The simple tool has already proven itself very well. 

Continuation: Equipment of the lower yards - Quarter blocks / Slings - Poulies d'ecoute et de cargue-point / suspentes
In the meantime, the quarter blocks of the main yard have been fastened at the appropriate positions by means of rose lashing. I continued with the slings. These strong ropes with ø 43 mm (0,9 mm in 1:48 ) are completely served. There are two of these slings per yard, each with a spliced eye at the end.
In preparation for serving these ropes, they were wormed in advance. As described some time ago, the pre-wormed model ropes simply look more realistic.

Here is a picture of the current condition of the rigging elements on the main yard:

Next I will make the truss pendants and jackstays and mount them to the yard.
The following picture from the Atlas du Génie maritime shows, among other things, the truss pendants as it was most certainly used on the La Créole, which is also the case on the original model. Accordingly, I have provided the necessary sheaves when making the longitudinal salings. The slings shown in this picture do not correspond to those of the La Créole.

Source: Extract from Atlas du Génie maritime, annexe No. 1, Pl. 23
 
To be continued ...
 

Thanks for the illustration Johann but actually I was referring tp these beautiful eye splices )on the two larger trusses segments)

How about the secret to those beautiful served truss eye splices? I assume you angle cut the served end to form the eye then seize over it? Mine look a lot clumpier.

@jdbondy
Hello,
for the double strop I use a rope that has already been served, which is formed into a loop. The place where the loop is glued together comes under the round seizing.

If I didn't explain it clearly, just ask again.

Bow part with the first twelve frames attached to the keel.
tracted inside and sanded.
Binnen-Vorsteven provisionally installed.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

52 Frames provisionally aligned on the keel, not yet straightened.
I will build the remaining frames including the transom separately
and only then place them on the keel.
After all this fixed on the keel, I will first straighten ans sand the inside.
Karl
 
(Google Translator)
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi ☺️
 
March 2013
 
 

I'm opening this topic dedicated to the Frégate de 24 l'Egyptienne, designed by François Caro and built in Toulon in 1799.
The documentation (based on the English and French archives) was established by Gerard Delacroix in a monograph published by Ancre in 2019.
This exceptional monograph includes a history, then very many 3D sketches that run through the entire ship. Many photos also of two models of the Egyptian exhibited at the Musée de la Marine in Paris, then 39 plates complete the work.
I chose to build my model ( poirier, buis,ébène érable ) at 1/48 which will make a model of almost one meter thirty. 24 frigates were called "heavy frigates".
 
I post some photos of the beginning of construction:
 
 

Continuation: Equipment of the yards - Quarter blocks of the lower yards - Poulies d'ecoute et de cargue-point
The quarter blocks of the lower yards were equipped with double strops and lashed at the appropriate positions with rose lashings.
Other model building colleagues have successfully demonstrated that it is even possible to depict a rose lashing on a scale of 1:75 and smaller. It should be all the easier to do on a scale of 1:48.
In this context, I remembered Frank's contribution "Making rose lashings" (LINK). In it he explained very clearly and comprehensibly with text and pictures the step-by-step process of how to make a rose lashing. The tool he made from toothpicks makes the process a whole lot easier.
Thanks to these excellent instructions, I was able to try a rose lashing on a test yard relatively quickly in advance, after I had modified Frank's tool a bit. In this respect, I can simply pull it apart through the sockets and don't have to snap through the toothpicks later.

 
By temporarily gluing the aid to the yard, the required cross lays can be easily produced.

 
I like the result. So I will then do it at the appropriate positions.

 
I still have to think about the execution of the knot.
Sequel follows …

Hello Thomas,
where is the problem?
Karl

Beautiful work. W O W !!!!!
Karl 

Hello,
the carpenters fished mostly the cabins and the painter painted them. They will get now some free days till Eastern, but the shipwright has to think about the galley. Some bricks are ordered, but there are some more questions to solve. 
 
If you want to find the dust, make a picture 😄 

Hello Thomas,
where is the problem?
Karl

Hello Thomas,
where is the problem?
Karl

Hello Thomas,
where is the problem?
Karl

Bow part with the first twelve frames attached to the keel.
tracted inside and sanded.
Binnen-Vorsteven provisionally installed.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello Thomas,
where is the problem?
Karl

Das ist bedauerlich.  Ich freue mich, dass Sie an Ihren Bemühungen festhalten.

Randsom wood, transom and frames 62 to 53 mounted.
Frames lined on the inside.
Schlempholz with its step fitted provisionally.
The images / drawings show the 74 GunShip by Jean Boudriot, Volume 1, as an example.
 
(Google Translator)
 
Randsomholz, Heckbalken sowie Spanten 62 bis 53 montiert.
Spanten innenseitig gestrakt.
Schlempholz mit seinen Stufen provisorisch eingepasst.
Die Bilder / Zeichnungen zeigen das 74 Kanonenschiff von Jean Boudriot, Volume 1, als Beispiel.
 
Karl