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About hwe

  • Birthday 12/20/1962

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Munich, Bavaria, Germany
  • Interests
    Building model ships, digital photography, sailing (Coastal), riding motorbikes, and more

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  1. AWESOME! How large will she be, when finished? - The one from Caldercraft (in 1/72) is already quite huge for a living room... Best regards, Herbert
  2. Derek and Vane have already put the bar quite high. I hope I can come close to their models... I'm also happy to hear that there are some more fans of "Lucky Jack" around. This makes me feel quite comfortable here. And the more I'm thinking about what I could perhaps do with my lower deck, the more I get excited to make it happen! Of course, the downside will be, that it will take virtually 'forever' to finish the lower deck, before putting the lid on it. But for me, it is true: ' The way is the goal.' - I also told my wife that, what she paid for, when making me this present, was not a 'finished model' (she expected me to have it done until December...), but hours of building fun for me! For a long, long time...
  3. Please tell me, if you find Brown stuff... - I only got Black and White. But I got even 20 DEN(ier). --- 20 DEN means '20 Gramms for 9 Kilometers', if I understand this correct. It is produced by UNI Productions Inc. and is called UNI-Caenis. It is made in Italy and I have it in Black and White. Have you tried Ebay? Best regards, Herbert
  4. Hi Derek, thank you for your warm welcome to the Speedy club! I'm proud to be a member! And I can only recommend this kit! - It really *is* great! I really have quite some modifications on my mind. Some of them are not for those who have cardiac issues... But one step after the other. Also a big "Thank you!" to you Oliver. I'm pretty sure that there is much to enjoy in it for me. But not as much as in a true POF build, like yours! Best regards, Herbert
  5. Dear modeller colleages, first of all, I'd like to say a HUUUUUGE T H A N K Y O U ! to Chris Watton, for creating this wonderful kit! I've seen quite a lot other kits over the years and most of them are quite bad. Chris' kit is of exceptionally good quality! I have seldom seen such a complete kit, together with such high quality materials. - Even though the ship itself is only small in size (and so will the finished model be), the kit consists of many, many parts and thus is quite worth the money! Also the building manual is very nice and complete. Many coloured pictures make life easier, as well as the many printed plan pages. They have a reasonable size and are printed only on one side, which is very good, because you don't have to turn them over and over again - which is expected to happen quite often during building phase and surely stresses the plans. Many very nicely details are included, like the etched copper plates or the lasered parts. So, from my point of view, if I would build a model straight OOB, then this should be almost a 'walk in the park', thanks to Chris' good work! But, those few, who know me well enough, know that I'm unable to build something OOB. I always find details, which I want to have a bit different. Mostly I want to show even more detail. So I already have a list of things, that I hope, I can improve for my kit. I'm already convinced, that in the end, it will look quite different from an OOB version. I don't want to spoil the fun and tell you all that I plan to do different. If you are going to accompany me on my trip with this kit, you are welcome and will get to know, soon enough. One example I'll give: I'm planning to replace the plastic gun barrels with brass ones, which I plan to turn on my lathe. Some other things I would like to tell you, are: First of all another huuuuuge THANK YOU!!! goes to my wife! - She just ordered the kit for me, after I told her, I would like to have it. OK, that is as a birthday and Xmas present in one go, but since my birthday is in December, it is very generous of her, to allow me, to start with it already now! Another thing is: Why do I wanted this kit? First of all, I'm a big fan of "Lucky Jack Aubrey" from Patrick O'Brians books. After I got to know, that Sir Thomas Cochrane was the blueprint for this character and what he achieved in real life, I started to admire him. And since the day I understood, that in this case fact and fiction is very close and that the facts came first, I wanted to build HMS Speedy. At that time, there was no kit available. - So I ordered myself a copy of the original plans from the NMM. For a long, long time I thought about building it POF in 1/48. - Which is nice in size, but not really fully compatible with the space I can afford in my living room. Or building it POF, without rigging and spars in the scale of the NMM plans. In the end I understood, it would be better to build it POB in 1/64, for now. - And then there was Chris with this great kit, so I couldn't stand it. Most of my modifications will be based on the plans from the NMM. There is even some more information behind all this, but I think I'll tell everything, once I'm at that point in the building log. Otherwise this intro would become even more lengthy. My first steps will be: - Clean up the workshop and make room for the new project - (still) have to check if all parts of the kit are complete and arrived in good condition (I'm sure they are, but I only want to be sure not to miss a part at a Saturday Afternoon, when I want to start to build the next step of the kit) - Remove all required parts for the first step from the wood and then my first modification will start to happen! My idea is, to highly detail the lower deck of Speedy. I know, it's almost nonsensical, because nobody will be able to have a look at those details later, but ... we will see that later. In order to show more detail in the lower deck, I have to replace the bulkheads partially with some other wood. Deck spars also have to be replaced. And even more. Fortunately, I'm in the position to throw in some (I can choose, which...) Pear, Boxwood or Service Tree and I can "deliver" my own stuff to me. No need to buy something, somewhere. I already own the required machinery and bought the wood years ago. So, my first steps will be, to mark and cut off the parts of the bulkheads, which I will modify. Pictures will follow, as soon as I have started. Hope you all will enjoy this building log! Best regards, Herbert
  6. Dear Hans, I would strongly recommend to buy the book, written by Henri Louis Duhamel de Monceau, the "Beginning of the art of shipbuilding" or "practical treatise about shipbuilding". - I must admit, I currently don't even know if there is an english translation available. So the title in english may be a bit different than what I wrote. It was originally written in french in 1752 or so. - So it is not too much older than the Belle, but you will have a hard time, to find something useful, before that time, about french shipbuilding. If you know German better than French, then you might try to find the German translation. it was translated to German in 1791 and there exist facsimilie books, reprinted in 1973 by Horst Hamecher in Kassel. It includes several illustrations (alone 18 big plan sheets) and many tables, too and has close to 600 pages. It is clearly the best book you can buy for the Belle! Best regards, Herbert
  7. Hi Oliver, absolutely "Top Notch" work so far! I'll follow your build. Yours, Herbert
  8. Dear Russ, I've just stumbled across your nice restoration of the Biloxi Schooner Model. What puzzles me, is that the deck seems to be flat (from side to side). As far as I know, it is quite common, that ships have a so called "crown", so that the deck is curved not only in one direction, but in two directions. Is this common to american Schooners, that they have only one curve? Can you tell so for all (especially old) Schooners, for all, East- and Westcoast, North and South? Or are there regional differences you know of? That would help me a lot for a current project of mine. Best regards, Herbert
  9. Hello Chuck, hello Jan, some introductionary words: I love deeply such small Cutters and similar ships! - And I also admire Chuck's work in general. I love his Syren and I love this little ship, too! It looks great and if my list of models I want to build wouldn't be so long, it would surely have a very high ranking on my list. - Which makes it noch fully impossible that I will build her, some day... (Can anyone spare one or two more lives for me? ) Back to the windlass: I was looking at postings #64 and #71 (of this thread) at first. #71 shows a real "fail" in my opinion (sorry to say so!). The handlebars would surely break the windlass in real live, just because there is so extremely little material that could hold the bars. - And then let a heavy anchor work on that... Chucks first images (#64) show a different version, but not far away from that. But in posting #75 you can see what I mean. - This windlass is rock solid and would surely work, even with heavy weights! Chuck's current version is much better than the one in posting #64 and may work, but I still like the one in posting #75 better. - But that's my personal taste! I'm not claiming that I know everything (especially better... ), but I say that this is what I saw while scanning through the thread and I believed, was a mistake. - I guess, the first pictures were only of a testing version? Chuck does it right, by letting me (and everybody else) do as I wish. And that is why I really love your work in general, Chuck! Excellent craftmanship combined with a brilliant brain and well mannered. You let others do what they think is right and you are doing really outstanding work! Keep it all up! Sincerely yours, Herbert BTW: Jan, the windlass on the picture in #183 differs obviously from the plan on which it lays...
  10. Dear Chuck, I'm sorry to say so, but I have the strong feeling that you have a bug in your windlass construction. If I see it right, then you have made a hole in each board, one below the other. A nice circle around it. I believe that this is wrong. - If you imagine all the material that would be missing, then the windlass would surely break when used. The correct way can be seen on the photo of a contemporary model that some other guy posted in the context. The holes in the windlass should be only in every second board, giving a chessboard pattern. Best regards, Herbert
  11. Hello Tom, I have some contact to Alex (every now and then) and I believe I do not pass any secrets when I tell you that he has been very busy in the past few months in helping the website of the German 'Arbeitskreis historischer Schifbau e.V' (Where we both, and not only the two of us, are members) in doing a major technical refresh. I guess that, as soon as that is in calmer waters, he will have more time again for his model and this building report. Yours, Herbert BTW: I also bought his Plans in 1:64... :-)
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