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About hwe

  • Birthday 12/20/1962

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Munich, Bavaria, Germany
  • Interests
    Building model ships, digital photography, sailing (Coastal), riding motorbikes, and more

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  1. AWESOME! How large will she be, when finished? - The one from Caldercraft (in 1/72) is already quite huge for a living room... Best regards, Herbert
  2. Derek and Vane have already put the bar quite high. I hope I can come close to their models... I'm also happy to hear that there are some more fans of "Lucky Jack" around. This makes me feel quite comfortable here. And the more I'm thinking about what I could perhaps do with my lower deck, the more I get excited to make it happen! Of course, the downside will be, that it will take virtually 'forever' to finish the lower deck, before putting the lid on it. But for me, it is true: ' The way is the goal.' - I also told my wife that, what she paid fo
  3. Please tell me, if you find Brown stuff... - I only got Black and White. But I got even 20 DEN(ier). --- 20 DEN means '20 Gramms for 9 Kilometers', if I understand this correct. It is produced by UNI Productions Inc. and is called UNI-Caenis. It is made in Italy and I have it in Black and White. Have you tried Ebay? Best regards, Herbert
  4. Hi Derek, thank you for your warm welcome to the Speedy club! I'm proud to be a member! And I can only recommend this kit! - It really *is* great! I really have quite some modifications on my mind. Some of them are not for those who have cardiac issues... But one step after the other. Also a big "Thank you!" to you Oliver. I'm pretty sure that there is much to enjoy in it for me. But not as much as in a true POF build, like yours! Best regards, Herbert
  5. Dear modeller colleages, first of all, I'd like to say a HUUUUUGE T H A N K Y O U ! to Chris Watton, for creating this wonderful kit! I've seen quite a lot other kits over the years and most of them are quite bad. Chris' kit is of exceptionally good quality! I have seldom seen such a complete kit, together with such high quality materials. - Even though the ship itself is only small in size (and so will the finished model be), the kit consists of many, many parts and thus is quite worth the money! Also the building manual is very nice and c
  6. Dear Hans, I would strongly recommend to buy the book, written by Henri Louis Duhamel de Monceau, the "Beginning of the art of shipbuilding" or "practical treatise about shipbuilding". - I must admit, I currently don't even know if there is an english translation available. So the title in english may be a bit different than what I wrote. It was originally written in french in 1752 or so. - So it is not too much older than the Belle, but you will have a hard time, to find something useful, before that time, about french shipbuilding. If you know German better than
  7. Hi Oliver, absolutely "Top Notch" work so far! I'll follow your build. Yours, Herbert
  8. Dear Russ, I've just stumbled across your nice restoration of the Biloxi Schooner Model. What puzzles me, is that the deck seems to be flat (from side to side). As far as I know, it is quite common, that ships have a so called "crown", so that the deck is curved not only in one direction, but in two directions. Is this common to american Schooners, that they have only one curve? Can you tell so for all (especially old) Schooners, for all, East- and Westcoast, North and South? Or are there regional differences you know of? That would help me a lot for a current project of mine.
  9. Hello Chuck, hello Jan, some introductionary words: I love deeply such small Cutters and similar ships! - And I also admire Chuck's work in general. I love his Syren and I love this little ship, too! It looks great and if my list of models I want to build wouldn't be so long, it would surely have a very high ranking on my list. - Which makes it noch fully impossible that I will build her, some day... (Can anyone spare one or two more lives for me? ) Back to the windlass: I was looking at postings #64 and #71 (of this thread) at first. #71 shows a real "fail" in my opinion (sorry
  10. Dear Chuck, I'm sorry to say so, but I have the strong feeling that you have a bug in your windlass construction. If I see it right, then you have made a hole in each board, one below the other. A nice circle around it. I believe that this is wrong. - If you imagine all the material that would be missing, then the windlass would surely break when used. The correct way can be seen on the photo of a contemporary model that some other guy posted in the context. The holes in the windlass should be only in every second board, giving a chessboard pattern. Best regards, He
  11. Hello Tom, I have some contact to Alex (every now and then) and I believe I do not pass any secrets when I tell you that he has been very busy in the past few months in helping the website of the German 'Arbeitskreis historischer Schifbau e.V' (Where we both, and not only the two of us, are members) in doing a major technical refresh. I guess that, as soon as that is in calmer waters, he will have more time again for his model and this building report. Yours, Herbert BTW: I also bought his Plans in 1:64... :-)
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