druxey

Twelve steps, Jax? Are those library steps? Stop talking and take my money!

Darn. So I, too, must be a bibliophile. Must add that to the ever-growing list of perjoratives that describe me....

During my build on the Victory there is always some need to talk or to explore deeper, and one realizes, that many details are not properly defined and are much more judged merely by kind of mental cinema than researched facts.
 

 
It started with a discussion in our german forum about the orientation of the free end of the shroud: Always left, always right or different depending on the side of the ship?!?
 
Here we had a research in the common literature and the results were quite similar with:
- for the cable-laid shrouds - Starboard side the free end pointing foreward, larboard aft  - for plain- or hawser-laid shrouds - Starboard side the free end pointing aft, larboard foreward    Background technically wise is that the rope always tends to curl in one direction and the free end should be crossing on the inner side, this leads automatically to the above mentioned orientations. If one simply flips the deadeye the free end would end up outside.   And please do not refer to the shrouds star- and larboard having different twists: Forget it, that is a marine myth created by Mr. Monfeld and is already revoked by himself - not without some gnashing of teeth on his side ;-)    Here some literature with the above mentioned orientation in green  
 
Schrage Rundhölzer ... page 81 Fig. 224/226 "Von außen gesehen wurden die Kabelweis geschlagenen Wanttaue von rechts nach links um die Jungfer gelegt, so dass an jeder Schiffsseite der Tamp hinter dem Want an der rechten Seite des Wanttaus zu liegen kam. Dort wo sich beide Parten über der Jungfer kreuzen, wurde die erste Bindselung angelegt und der rechts liegende Tamp mit zwei Plattbindselungen am Wanttau befestigt."   Marquardt, Schoner in Nord und Süd page 128 Fig 41 "Bei kabelgeschlagenen war das Ende oberhalb der Juffer links beigebunden (an Backbordseite nach hinten weisend), während trossengeschlagene entgegengesetzt beigebunden wurden."   Lee Masting and Rigging ... Drawing pages 40 and 42 as mentioned above (only one side shown)   Petersson Rigging period Fore-and-Aft Craft Drawing page 16  as mentioned above (only one side shown)   Petersson Rigging period shipmodels Drawing page 2 bis 4  as mentioned above (only one side shown)   Harland Seamanship Drawing page 22  as mentioned above (only one side shown)   Darcy Lever Sheet Anchor "The Lanyard has a ... Knot ... cast on the end ; which is placed the reversed way to what the end of the Shroud is: thus in Cable laid Shrouds, the ends on the larbord side lies aft; on the starboard side forewards; ..."  Drawing page 24  as mentioned above (only one side shown)   Boudriot shows the same orientation for the frensh (thanks to pollux for the information)   The Victory in Portsmouth was shown the same way (at least until the actual rerigging)   Nares, Brady und Biddlecombe only describe Cutter Stay fashion    The only one telling the other direction is Marquardt in Eighteenth Century Rigs and Rigging, which contradicts his own Book Schooner Nord und Süd   On this occasion I found some other useful information: - Max. distance of the big deadeyes twice diameter
- Tackle about half the diameter of the shroud
- Shroud not too tight around the deadeye
- free end of the tackle passes through the gap of deadeye and shroud
- free end not too long   But it left me with some further questions: - The top-mast shrouds were plain laid or cable laid (cablets)? Plain laid would mean that the ends would be pointing the other way than on the lower shrouds. - The same for backstays?  - The distance of twice diameter of the deadeye looks good on the lower shrouds lanyards. Is this applicable too for the topmast shrouds? There the distance usually looks much longer in comparison?
- When was the batten on top of shrouds introduced to maintain their orientation? Marquardt only makes a small remark in the picture section telling "about 1800".
- Was this also introduced for the topmast shrouds?
 
popeye2sea already replied one hint:
Steels, Art of Rigging simply states "Dead-eyes are turned into the lower end of the top mast shrouds, as the lower ones are into to lower shrouds.
(Thank you mate!!!)
  Cheers, Daniel

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 61 – Lower deck framing
 
The first picture shows the first four beams of the lower deck installed.
 

 
The beams, lodging knees, pillars and pillar knees are Castelo – representing hard pine.  The hanging knees are pear – representing oak.  Beams 2 and 3 have their bolts installed – down into the hanging knees, pillar knees and deck clamps. The off-center staggering of the pillars can be seen in this picture.  Wax finish has been applied to surfaces under the first three beams.  Two forward ledges are installed.  Beams 3 and 4 have been scored for carlings. 
 
The next pictures show the cutting of the scores.
 

 
First, centerlines were marked on each beam and the carling locations marked out from those lines.  The depths of the scores were then marked with a compass.  In the above picture a cross-grain plunge-cut is being made in the beam.  In the next picture the score is being pared out after the three plunge-cuts.
 

 
The depth is set by eye.  In the next picture a piece of carling stock is being used to check the fit.
 

 
After the beams are set and glued into position, the hanging and lodging knees are fit.  Dummy bolts in these knees are then installed using black monofilament as shown below.
 

 
A razor blade is being used to slice off the monofilament after gluing with CA.  The knees are then sanded smooth before installing. 
 
The next picture shows a pillar and its top knees being prefabricated.
 

 
These knees also receive bolts as above.  The knees at the bottom are installed on the keelson after the pillar is set.  The next picture shows beams 2,3 and 4 installed and the next one (beam S) positioned.
 

 
Note that the lodging knees are set slightly below the top face of the beams.  This allowed air circulation under the decking and the massive waterways that will cover the beam ends.  The tops of the ledges are also slightly higher than the tops of the knees – to match the beams so the decking will lie fair.  Two carlings have been installed.  Ledges will be installed between all these beams.  The staggering of the pillars is more evident in this picture.  Note that no hanging knees are installed at the frames - marked X on the port side.  Those will be removed for the view port on that side - later.
 
In the next picture pieces of bilge ceiling have been glued to the frames that will not be removed for the view port.
 

 
After bolting, these will be trimmed off flush with the fore and aft faces of the frames.  These are needed to allow hanging knees to be installed under these beams.  The three frames between these beams will be removed later between the top of the lower futtock heads and the middle deck clamp..
 
Ed

No matter whether you use ply or solid wood, the panels have to be balanced; that is to say, an odd number of layers, preferably with grain in each layer at right angles to the adjacent one.

Darn. So I, too, must be a bibliophile. Must add that to the ever-growing list of perjoratives that describe me....

Darn. So I, too, must be a bibliophile. Must add that to the ever-growing list of perjoratives that describe me....

Darn. So I, too, must be a bibliophile. Must add that to the ever-growing list of perjoratives that describe me....

Hello,

now here is the correct version.
 

 

 
I hope you enjoy it.

Johann,
 
It is somehow re-assuring to know that even a master craftsman like yourself makes an occasional mistake! Thanks for sharing this with us.

Hello model builders,
the manufacture and assembly of the gunports lid is nearing completion.
The last two lids must still be mounted.

 

 
 

Hello,

thanks for the positive comments.
That makes me happy.
Here is a little update:

Thanks all!
Meanwhile, all gunports lids were fitted into the ports.
Only the last pair is still to be finished. They are for the gun port in the bow on the port side.
This gun port is a special case, because of the rounding of the bow.
The fit of this cover halves at this place requires special attention.
This couple also receives a dropfront as a protection against the armature.

 

 

 
To be continued ...
 

It is amazing what we can learn from other model-makers, as well as what one invents for oneself, when one has to! I appreciate all the model makers on this site who are willing to share their knowledge.

A little progress on the whales, but first tool time.
I should have bought the rip taper jig from Jim when I ordered my table saw. Unsure why I didn't at the time. I made my own version. A few brass bars, aluminum plate & bolts assembled in the right way makes a very useful tool.
 

 

 

 
The whales are made from pear tinted with Fieblings (mahogany and black 6:1) The edges are pre painted as if fear for the paint running into places it shouldn't the sides will first be sanded flush before I can paint it. All planks are pre bend using a steam iron and the admiral's hair dryer
 
All looks a bit messy at this point
 

 

 
Remco

It is amazing what we can learn from other model-makers, as well as what one invents for oneself, when one has to! I appreciate all the model makers on this site who are willing to share their knowledge.

In the area where I stay, there are no expositions are model ship only.
The kind of exposition we have are for what I would call Mixed hobby!

Hi, Sal - good question!  I have also posted a response to your build log.
 
In this case, it appears that the ship sat lower at the stern than the bow - not at all uncommon for these types.  Increased speed, supposedly, as well as providing the rudder more bite and increased stability.
 
The launch ways are angled to allow the ship to slide into the water - think of them in relation to the ground and the keel is parallel to the ways. 2.5 to 3.5 degrees was very common for launching ways - about the ideal slant to let the vessel slide in a controlled manner into the water, but not so much that she would start to move before the blocks were removed.
 
The waterline is in reference to the way the ship will set in the water and will not match the slant of the ways.  In the water, the stern would be lower, hence that 4.5 degree angle as opposed to the ways.  They are really two totally different and unrelated sets of angles.
 
the masts also showed different amounts of "rake" - in general, the fore mast had slightly less rake or angle than the aft (main) mast.  This was very common across nearly all ship types.

Well put, Jason, and there is the essence of the issue - at the time in question (177x), there was no true American "Admiralty" to make those decisions - they issued general requirements to purchase "Sloops" or "Schooners", then for some "Frigates".  Individual colonies then also had vessels built, but to no set mold or designs.  The first effort at a standard design criteria wasn't until the first 6 frigates were ordered in the 1790's - and even those, whilst built based on the model and preliminary draughts by Humphreys, varied dramatically in final product, influenced by the builders personal vision and the Naval Captain (assigned to each as superintendent during construction).  Add to that the subscription built vessels (such as the Essex) which were totally designed and built based on the local contract - then sold to the Federal government when completed. 
 
The concept of a standardized naval construction program - plans, materials, methods and so on - was much slower to take root in America, partly a result of our desire for "States Rights" during the earliest days of the Republic, and also a general mistrust of central government. 

Today I finished them all and will next start planking. Here are some photos how it does look like.
 
Controlling the line with slightly adjusting the nails appeared to be an efficient technique.
 
Dražen
 
 

... and finally it looks like that.
 
Dražen

Last year I built a pair of loudspeakers. Now, I can use the wood I cut out for the speakers and can bring the sandpaper on it – practical for 90°grinding. Good I didn’t throw it away... 
 
Dražen

Hi All. Well the infamous "set up"   has been completed and I finally got my lazy
butt in gear and took some pictures of the finished bomb vessel.  
 
It has been a great "little" project that I had a lot of fun with. I hope you enjoyed it too.
 
Thank you for all your comments and likes. It means more than I can express.  
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

Thanks Augie, Ben and Paddy.
 
Well I'm barreling down the home stretch and speaking of barreling I have mounted the barrels
to their carriages and will be putting them in place once I'm back in town.
 

 

 
Thanks for stopping by.