druxey

I am so sorry to hear of your, and your family's, tragic loss, Alan. May building this model be a healing process for you and a good memorial.

Each of the parts shown here were cast in RTV molds
Kurt
 
 

Hello Albert and thank you very much for your compliment, I am pleased.
 
Yesterday I completed remaining cannons. The ropes have a strong impregnation - I use for this a glue (thinned by water). This will allow to change the shape of ropes (after gentle re-soaking) and after drying the shape is already fixed.
 







 
I am going to create other crew members who will perform some action with a cannon....
 
Best regards
Doris

Several hours later I've made all the swivel gun mounts to this stage. Next comes some rather tricky ironwork.
 

 
  Danny

Hello, I have placed some coasts yet to be finished, on a provisional basis
 
 

 

 

 

Dear Michael,

Thank you very much for your kind words, I appreciate them a lot. And also thanks for possibility to learn new English words; I would like to improve my language skills. I feel good when I am able to understand foreign language.

In our country we say - how many languages ​​you know, so many times you are a human.
 
All cannons are ready to place on deck, now I am working on the tackle.







 


 





 
Enjoy the pics.
 
Kind regards
Doris

And thank you shihawk, Geoff, Christian, Rafael, Spyglass and John .
 
Swivel Gun Mounts
 
There are six Swivel Gun Mounts on the Forecastle and ten on the Quarterdeck. They are octagon shaped on the upper portion, and square on the lower. I used a jig with a "V" cut into it to sand the octagon shapes in :
 

 
A small decorative shoulder was cut into the transitions using an Xacto blade :
 

 
The bottom is quarter-rounded. I used the Byrnes Disc Sander for this :
 

 
The forecastle mounts are all the same length, so I've made all six. The quarterdeck ones are of varying lengths, so I'll make up two at a time.
 

 

 
At this stage I have left the tops of the mounts a little bit long, as they will need to be trimmed to follow the Sheer line longitudinally and are horizontal athwartships.
 
  Danny

It's always nice to see something different on this site, and this stern post arrangement is different. Beautiful joinery - can't wait to see the metalwork!

some pics of the last few days work - 
 

 

 

 

 

 

I have loads of different types of thickness of card at my disposal.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

takes some time with the time I have but thats ok...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
more to come...still some areas in need of cleaning up.

This is my diary of HMS Dreadnought made from CARD, something I picked up to stop the boredom during my tea break (15mins) and lunch (30mins) at work, and belive me the people I work with a boring!!!!  
   
 
So this cost me all of £6, took some tools in and while stuffin' me face I build this.  
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
more in the next post....  

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 45 –Inboard members continued, Stern fairing and half-frame bolting continued.
 
American Clipper Historical Note: In 19th Century America, forest resources were plentiful, in fact they seemed limitless.  For these reasons, and due to the immaturity of the American iron industry, ships with wood structures continued to be built throughout the century and into the 20th.  Several domestic species found their way into American-built ships.  White oak, very similar in species to English oak was the primary material used for structural components.  However, the less plentiful but superior species, live oak from forests in the southeastern states, was often specified for critical components.  It was almost 50% stronger than white oak and the shape of the growth lent itself to knees and curved members.  Joshua Humphreys specified live oak for the original American 44-gun frigates and crews from the northern shipyards went south to harvest the requirements.  Another southern species that was widely used in American ships was hard pine, also known as longleaf pine.  This plentiful timber had 90% of the strength of white oak and was roughly the same weight.  Hard pine was used for beams, planking and knees.  White pine, the species most associated with the term “pine,” was lighter, softer and less strong – only about 50% in strength compared to white oak.  It was often used in planking weather decks.  Other species of pine – pitch pine, yellow pine, red pine – were also used.  Another important species was black locust.  Its hardness, straightness and strength – 35% stronger than white oak  - found wide use for treenails and often for pillars.  Various other structural woods were used, but these were the primary species.
 
Young America’s structure was largely white oak – most frames, central sections of the keel and keelson, stem, stern posts, hanging knees.  But it is very probable that a significant number of important members were of live oak – parts of keel and keelson, keelson riders, hooks, some frame timbers.  Hard pine was used for beams, inboard and outboard planking, waterways, deck clamps, binding strakes, lower deck  planking and deadwood.  Lodging knees would have been pitch pine.  Exposed decks were white pine.  Pillars and treenails were locust.  Other decorative works were of other species and will be described later.
 
For the model, I an using Swiss pear wherever oak – white or live – was used.  Hard and pitch pine members will be Castelo.  Weather decks may be holly – not decided.  Most of the work covered so far has been in pear, but Castelo has been evident in the last few posts in the bilge ceiling and deck clamp construction.
 
 
Work described in the last part continued.  In the first picture the deadwood near the sternpost is being smoothed with a #0 cut Grobet riffler after paring with gouges. 
 

 
When the fairing of the aft part of the lower hull was finished, the bolts securing the aft half and cant frames were installed.  The next picture shows this in progress.
 

 
Holes were drilled deep into the keelson/deadwood.  Copper wire dipped in epoxy was then inserted and moved in and out to distribute the glue internally.  The wire was then clipped off as shown.  The stains on the wood in the picture are  from isopropanol used to wash off excess epoxy and has not yet dried.  The heads of the bolts will be sanded off flush and blackened just before the final wood finish is applied.  They were iron.
 
The next picture shows the lower hull after this bolting.  Bolts will be much more visible when black.
 

 
Finish sanding and polishing of these areas will be done later.  The next picture shows the stern framing from directly aft.
 

 
Work inside the hull on the strapping, deck clamps and bilge ceiling continued.  In the next picture a strake is being glued on the upper side of the band.  Strapping below the bilge ceiling has been added.
 

 
One of the lower strakes is being glued in the next picture. 
 

 
After the glue has dried, all of these strakes are bolted through every frame with epoxy at both ends of each bolt.  These bolts, also iron, will be blackened later.
 
This internal work is going to take some time.  I switch between iron strapping and ceiling planks when I can - to battle the tedium of repetitive work – not my strong suit.
 
 
 Ed

Hi,
 
here is a dry test for checking how it look and fit. I think to show the doors half open, as seen in second image.
 

 

 
next to do are handles and hinges.
 
Alex

Hello folks. today I will teach you how to make gun barrels.
 
You first need a $1600 lathe and then.... no, no, no, just take some paper and... 
 
Thank you for your lesson, MASTER Doris!  

Finished:







Best regards,
Doris

And also there are finished all guns/barrels - made of paper, wood and clay. Here you can see pics from the process step by step.
 
I followed this photo of real English cannons from 18th century:
 

 
How I made them?
 

OLIVER LANG’S STERN
 
In February 1845, Oliver Lang, Master Shipwright at Woolwich, faced a daunting challenge. The Admiralty, under pressure from Parry, had decided to outfit HMS Erebus and Terror for auxiliary screw propulsion, powered by small passenger locomotives.
 
Screw propulsion was in its infancy and contemporary designs, based on patents filed by Francis Pettit Smith and others, called for the placement of the propeller opening in the deadwood of a steam powered vessel (Bourne 1855:28). However, applying such a modification to polar vessels would critically weaken the stern, and Lang knew from the Terror’s first arctic expedition that even the most robust sternpost was severely vulnerable when overwintering in sea ice. How could he protect the ship’s stern from the pack when a gaping hole had to be cut in the deadwood for the propeller?
 
His solution appears in a plan dated March 17th, 1845, which was subsequently transcribed onto the 1836/37 profile plan for HMS Terror. Instead of altering the ship’s existing stern, Lang simply extended the stern of the ship aft by adding a new keel section, onto which a new rudderpost and aperture for the propeller were attached. The 1836/37 plans seem to show that Terror’s original sternpost had been modified for Back’s voyage,  but the 1845 annotations clearly indicate that Lang reconstructed it to the same configuration used in Terror’s original design (alternately, it is possible that Terror’s stern was not modified in 1836 as planned).
 
Lang’s 1845 design called for a triangular piece of wood to be bolted to the original sternpost, creating a vertical face for the propeller aperture. The new rudderpost and the angled fitting were both tenoned into the keel extension, as indicated by the presence of horizontal bolts on a contemporary model of the design. The entire structure was then bolted to a massive u-shaped “staple knee”, made from 3.5 inch thick iron, which was the same length as the propeller opening.
 
Lang next turned to the problem of protecting the new rudderpost and propeller aperture from ice damage. He settled on a well system which could be used to ship and unship the propeller, similar to a design patented by Joseph Taylor in 1838 (Bourne 1855:32). However, Lang’s system included a new innovation; when the propeller was unshipped, the well would be filled with a series of stacking wooden and steel chocks. The chocks were shaped to match the dimensions of the new rudder post and deadwood and would completely fill the well, thus reinforcing the rudderpost against forces exerted by the ice.
 
Taylor’s patent described that the propeller could be shipped via “vertical grooves cut in the true and false stern posts … in which frame the propeller is placed” (Bourne 1855:32). However, the use of reinforcing chocks required that this system be modified. Lang replaced the grooves in the stern and false stern with robust iron rails which themselves had a vertical slot running much of their length. The protruding rails were necessary to secure the chocks in the propeller well and needed to be very strong to endure the pressures of pack ice (I’ll present more on the configuration of this rail system and the propeller in a subsequent post).
 
While we may never know how Lang’s chock system faired after two years in the grinding pack off King William Island, we can surmise that it must have worked relatively well because the Terror survived its first winter at Beechey Island in sailing condition. Further, we know that the same chock system was installed on the Intrepid and Pioneer (Anonymous 1850:8), steam tenders used in the Franklin search effort, and that both ships survived multiple winters in sea ice before being abandoned in relatively seaworthy condition.
 
Scantlings for Terror’s Sternpost and Rudderpost
 
Sternpost
Sided              
            At Head = 13 and ½ inches
            At Heel = 10 and ¾ inches
 
Moulded depth = 17 and ½ inches
 
Rudderpost
Sided
At Head = 13 and ½ inches
            At Heel = 10 and ¾ inches
 
Moulded depth = 13 and ½ inches
 
 
References:
Anonymous
1850       Naval Intelligence — The Arctic Expedition. The Times.  Monday , 6th May, pg 8.
 
Bourne, John
1855       A Treatise on the Screw Propeller with Various Suggestions for Improvement. Longman, Brown, Green, and Longmans, London. 
 
 

Cut stern pieces prior to assembly.
 

Assembled stern architecture (significant iron work has yet to be installed, and  
the temporary basswood piece is to provide rigidity until the propeller well is completed).
 

Detail of keel piece and opening for the staple knee. 
 

Aft view of the unique rudderpost joint with the keel. 
 

Another view of Lang's design.
 

Sanding two of the sternpost bolsters to match the aft station
(the bolsters provide width needed for the propeller well).
 

Detail after sanding. 
 

Comparing the bolster to the body plan.
 

Completed rudderpost and sternpost bolsters.
 

Two of the bolsters in place, showing how they add width to the stern to accommodate
the propeller well (these aren't glued and cannot be until the bulkhead is attached). 
 
 

Current progress on the stern, keel, and stem. 

Personal preference. I use Fiebing's leather dye. I use a small plastic cup and apply the dye to the blocks using a Q-tip. A few minutes' soaking does the trick. I then take off any dried surface excess with a paper towel, then polish each block with a little wax.

Today's progress....
Managed to get from -O- to Y Foward Section Lines done.
I measured these off the Body Plan and compared to the Half Breadth Plan.
They are not too far off and blend nicely .. but it took some manipulation of a few sections to look right.
 
So far I am happy with the out come .
Next are the Aft Section Lines.
But not tonight     
 
Alan

Thanks for the nice compliments.
 
 
 
Sure, if I can hire you to do the drafting of the furniture, as I love your drawings. So just send your idea's and we'll make it a joint effort.
 
The upper half of the cupboard as two features, one shelf for pots and one to hold plates, I got the idea of some pictures I found of galleys.
 

 
 
 
Remco

Personal preference. I use Fiebing's leather dye. I use a small plastic cup and apply the dye to the blocks using a Q-tip. A few minutes' soaking does the trick. I then take off any dried surface excess with a paper towel, then polish each block with a little wax.

As for comparison, this is the same thing  with french ship

Cont...
 

 

 

 

 

Work on the sternpost has begun, complicated lining up with aft deadwood but moving along slowly is fine by me.
 
Ben