druxey

Terrific. Those 'improved' crowns are outstanding.

You exceeded yourself with the improved crowns and other detail work, Doris. Terrific! Dobri.

Whoops: you are quite right, Russ! I apologize. It was rather late last night when I wrote that. Drop planks, i.e. reducing two strakes to one, or three to two will be required on a bluff-bowed hull form.

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 175– Head Continued
Posted 1/29/13

In the first picture the rail to support the grating bars on the starboard side is being glued into place with some improvised clamping. The carling and three grating bars are installed on the port side.



 
Since the last post, I had to revise the grating areas. The center cross piece that defines the forward end of these sections was too far aft and would have interfered with the gammoning – a little drafting glitch – now corrected.

The next picture shows all the gratings completed and the shafts for the two forward “seats of ease” installed through openings in the grating.


 
The next picture shows the starboard false rail pinned in place.


 
The seats have been added to the tops of the square shafts. The aft seat on the starboard side has been fitted and is just visible above the back of the false rail.

The next picture shows both false rails and all the seats installed.



 
The aft seats give some additional support to the fragile tops of the false rails. This can be seen more clearly in the next picture.

 

 
The figure is still loose in this picture. She makes appearances at various times in these pictures.

The next picture shows the hull inverted for work on the head timber facings and the wash cants.



 
In this picture the curved, molded facing pieces have been installed on the head timbers. The wash cants are also installed. I was very happy to have the bunker over the wheel for this upside down work.

The next picture shows the current state from dead ahead.



 
These pictures are quite useful for finding little errors of alignment or worse – much better than viewing while bent over at an angle. I was pretty satisfied with the symmetry.

The last picture shows the whole model at this stage on a freshly painted shipway - re surfaced with a new copy of the plan.



 
The work on the head is essentially finished at this stage except for a trailboard, some bolting and the small scrolls just behind the feet of the figure. What next? Gun doors? Deadeyes and chains? Finishing the unplanked port side? Haven’t decided yet.


Ed

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 176– Unplanked Port Side
Posted 2/4/13

I decided to work next on the unplanked port side of the model. The first picture shows an overall view of this side before starting this work.



 
The framing on this side had been faired and sanded smooth, but there is still quite a bit of detailing to be done to complete this side of the model.

The first task was to install fillers between the frames where the chain bolts would have passed through the side. The next picture shows the area of the main chains just aft of the waist.



 
 
There is not a lot of information about this feature and what I found is buried deep in Steel. These fillers were fir. I installed them between ports where chain plates for all three masts are located and some under the forward part of some ports, since the chains slant aft under these. I made them long enough to handle the chain bolts and preventer bolts at the bottom of the chain plates.

The next picture shows some blue masking tape being used to define the line of a ribband to be installed at the line of the top of the wale.



 
The ribbands on the lower hull were done some time ago. There will be two of these on the topside frames. One at the top of the line of the wale and another parallel to that at the location of the sheer rail.

The next picture shows the first section being glued into place.



 
The bolt holes were pre-drilled against a fence in the milling machine to keep them on the centerline of the ribband – a 6” x 6” member, joined along its length with hook scarphs. The wet area is from washing off the glue.

The next picture shows a somewhat closer view of this looking forward.



The horizontal line of bolts above this ribband are holding the knees of the upper deck and the large hole is one of the upper deck scuppers. The chain bolts were set at the height of the lower strake of spirketing (inside). The upper spirketing strake comes up to the port sills.

The next picture illustrates the value of taking these pictures – in addition, of course, to being able to post them.



 
The two arrows highlight a length of the ribband that is just slightly out of fairness. I did not actually see this upward bulge by eye. In the next picture the line has been corrected.



This section of ribband was pried up, re-glued, and pinned a bit lower, correcting the problem. The area below the ribband is darker because it has been finished.

The last picture shows the difference between finished and unfinished pear quite clearly.



 
The wax finish will lighten slightly. This picture also shows the fillings for the main mast chain bolts very clearly. The square openings just above the ribband are the vent scuttle They pass through the top of the upper deck clamp. The toptimbers astride the quarterdeck that go all the way up to the roughtree rail are those that would have supported this rail even without the berthing up. So, the arrangement of timbers is per the original draft, with some left short of the rail as shown on the draft. This picture also shows one of the new adjustable supports for the hull. There are four of these.


Ed

That was a mammoth effort to re-post all of that Ed. Thank you so much for doing so, it has been a real treat to re-read. Looking forward to the new stuff!

Thanks every one, hopfully many more in the future. At the moment life has sort of got in the way but hoping for some time to work on her in the near future. Thanks Ed, as soon as I get back to the cannon's I keep those sizes in mind. Daniel the carpenter´s walk did go around the orlop deck but not so much like the one you show above. There was a lot of places that was not walled in and one had a good view, of the outside wall. On 74's of Montagu time there wasn't a wall all the way around the orlop deck. Here is some photo's that show how Montagu looked. In the first picture it shows the stanchion's that separated the cable tier from the carpenter's walk, followed by the fwd store rooms and finally the aft store rooms with the carpenter's walk on the outside. Have also included the plan of her orlop deck so you can compare the two. Sort of wish I had added more of the detail on this deck,like metal work and maybe even some cables, in the tier. Of course it would have been even longer to finish this deck then the couple of years that it took. Gary

.....
 
              rekon54

hi advances work Fleuron
 
              following more photos   rekon54

18th century contemporary models usually show two shaped spare topmasts and a yard or two.

Contemporary models' channels (18th century, English) are either in natural wood or matt black.

Matt missed you on the last post sorry about that.
 
Daniel, John, Russ, and Druxey, thanks for all you kind words, at the rate I'm going I sometimes wonder when it will get to the lake.
 
Today I managed to get enough time in to make a double block with a Becket. The sheaves are .375 diameter and the axle is .062, the brass is .125 x .031
I remembered a quote that one should treat every part as model in itself and this seems to work well for me.
 

 
Machined up a block of Degame (lemon-wood)
 

 

 

 
Did a lot of sanding and finishing with some fine steel wool. Made a pin for the Becket. the ring is .011 music wire.
 

 

 
Set it up on the mast with the other double block to see how it looks for the Gaff up-haul, I just used the weight from the ropewalk to give some body to the rope. I must finish those seizings on the shrouds.
 

 
The blocks work well together, this is a lot of fun, I need to get on and finish the gaff now, and of course there will be a few more blocks but the next few will be singles.
 
Michael

To combat 'hourglassing' of shrouds when rigging ratlines, tie every fifth one to begin with. Then add a ratline half-way between those installed, and finally one between each to complete the job. As you go with the first and second round, check that you aren't pulling the shrouds out of line.

I got in an entire hour in the shop. I made and installed the cleats on the bulwarks.
 
Here is a photo of what they actually looked like on a schooner. This is a small part of a larger photo, but I am pretty sure this is the deck of the Julia Delacruz, built in 1924.
 
Questions and comments welcomed.
 
Russ

Love the thimble! She will be the cynosure of all eyes when you sail her.

I put some beams of the second deck

The model was built at the level of beams. On margin planks, small pieces of wood were placed, giving the view of components of frames. By building the gunwale and the counter at the prow, the hull took its proper shape. Some wooden supporting constructions, were also made in prow and stern.  





 
Thanks
 

I followed the plans of the hull of a real boat , and the method of planking on bulkheads. Plywood was used for the keel and frames and beechwood for all the external wooden parts. I also followed the traditional way of planking.  

Good ventilation is a must, of course, as with any volatile solvent.

Love the thimble! She will be the cynosure of all eyes when you sail her.

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 168– Channels
Posted 12/12/12

The next leap forward was the installation of the channels – but first a small carving chore – the scroll just forward of the gallery windows.



The next picture shows the mizzen channel with its supporting iron T-plates installed.




The T-plates were fabricated from two pieces of copper. A slot was milled on the bottom of the horizontal piece to fit the end of the lower arm. The slot was milled before ripping off the individual pieces on the circular saw. These were then silver soldered. As the next picture shows there are backing plates for these brackets on the tops of the channels. Also, the outer bolts are eyebolts. The slots for the deadeye bindings were cut before installing the T-plates.



The T-plates were attached with copper through bolts, peened to hold everything in place. The next picture shows the main channel. The tops of the eyebolts were clamped in a vise to allow the bottoms to be peened over.

The T-plates ate generally located so they can be bolted into the second frame from the gun port. I say generally because these also need to avoid the slots for the deadeye bindings that were located from the original sheer plan. They also need to avoid the long horizontal bolts through the channels.



Neither of these channels are permanently installed yet. Note the bracket for the main stunsail boom at the forward end of the main channel.

The next picture shows the aft channels and stools installed.



The ironwork was blackened first. The channels were then washed clean, dried then glued to the side, aligned and secured with bolts at the bottom ends of the T-plate arms. They are very secure.

The next picture shows the main channel.


The copper was blackened as usual with liver of sulfur after the parts were attached. To solder these parts I used a new product – a silver solder paste with copper in the composition. It fluxes around 1250 degrees like other silver solder, but unlike ordinary silver solder it can be blackened with LOS. There is not much solder showing on these parts but I did some tests before making these to be sure it would blacken.

The next picture is a closer view.



The bolts at the ends of the lower arms were installed like those on the iron knees on the deck beams. A under-sized hole drilled into the frame under the planking, a sharpened bit of copper wire forced in then clipped off just above the surface of the arm, then peened over by hammering – following by a touch of LOS on the bolt heads.

The last picture shows the fore channel from above.




Ed

Love the thimble! She will be the cynosure of all eyes when you sail her.

Bob, I am really looking forward to getting her wet.
 
I did manage to do a little work yesterday and today, I worked on the Jib stay, I might just sew this into the sail and have it fly and not hank it to a stay
 

 
I made a thimble for the 1/16th cable first I filed a couple of grooves at each end I annealed the centre part only and shaped the thimble using the same tools and methods as before
 

 

 
At the moment it is attached to the bowsprit end cap but it will be attached to a traveler on the bowsprit, so that it can be hauled it to change sheets.
 

 
Started working on the Gaff, by planing down a square of spruce to a tapered round section
 

 
This evening I spent a couple of hours making one of the blocks for the gaff up-haul
 

 
Michael

Yes, the dye will 'wick' along the grain of the wood. No tape will prevent this. The only method to stop migration of dye that I know of is to score the wood with a sharp scalpel blade. This breaks the flow of dye and makes for a clean line. I cut quite deeply: the cut is not apparent in the finished piece.
 
The only other option is to make the part in pieces, dye one part and then join the pieces afterwards.

Yes, the dye will 'wick' along the grain of the wood. No tape will prevent this. The only method to stop migration of dye that I know of is to score the wood with a sharp scalpel blade. This breaks the flow of dye and makes for a clean line. I cut quite deeply: the cut is not apparent in the finished piece.
 
The only other option is to make the part in pieces, dye one part and then join the pieces afterwards.