druxey

I have adjusted the position of the sculpture on the right side of the stern, because there was an asymmetry and it did not look nice. Now the lions are at the same height as Pegasus on the left.

After patina and colour shading:



 




 

Dan,
 
Another tip for your ratlines. In order to maintain fairly even tension and avoid creating an hour glass shape in your shrouds, tie every fourth ratline first, then go back and do each one half between the first lot, then finish the remainder. I found that using a highlighter pen to colour code the template worked a treat (not shown in the photo on my log - I only worked it out a bit later).

That Pegasus figure was beautifully modelled, Doris. With a fully-round figure, would you make it in two halves, or model it completely in the round?

Part 9 -modeling the visible part of the second wing and improving details, the final adjustment of whole shape



Finished sculpture ready for baking:
 
Pegasus is ready for baking in the oven and after that I will paint it and place onto the base of one from my sailing ships

Here's photo of her prior to fairing the outside Maury. Lots of cast and shifted toptimbers!

Thanks for coming back, Doris. Your paper/card models are amazing.

The most reliable way is to taper a square stick, plane it octagonal ('eight-square') then round it with sandpaper strips pulled back and forth around the diameter.

1:60 HMS Naiad 1797
Part 75 –Some More Rework
Posted 5/10/11
 
The comments I have received since starting to write about the Naiad model have been very complimentary and often overly generous, so I thought I’d add a another dose of reality to help me from becoming too complacent in the face of all this positive reinforcement. You may recall much earlier in the story, in Part 17, the replacement of the bollard timbers which were poorly made. In this part I will discuss another replacement job. It is in the same area of the ship, which was done back at an earlier level on the learning curve. This has been scheduled to be done for some time. The first picture illustrates the main issue.
 

 
Three of the timbers between the bridle port and he first gun port are too short. This is due to some careless lofting on my part of the early cant frames and a mistake in trimming them back too early. The three of these marked ‘X’ need to extend up high enough to form timberheads.
 
Another issue is visible in the next picture.
 

 
In fairing the hull in this area the timber between the first and second ‘X’ marked frames has had its chock exposed due to inaccurate beveling of the joint faces and perhaps misalignment of this frame, so I decided to replace it as well. I could have replaced the other frame in this picture with the gap in the joint face, but where do you stop? All this framing will be visible in the finished model. It can also be seen in this picture that all the pieces to be replaced are fastened to the ribband with bolts and the joints with their lower parts are bolted with copper wire below and at the height of the ribband. This adds some complications..
 
The first step in the repair is shown below.
 

 
Here the small razor saw is being used to cut off the first timber above the ribband. It has already had the spacer attaching it on its forward face cut through.
 
The next picture shows the joint below the ribband after removal of the full upper piece, leaving the chock in place. This part of the demolition was done very carefully with small chisels.
 

 
Holes where the bolts were extracted are visible in this picture. The monofilament ribband bolts were cut off inside using a sharp knife. They are held in too firmly to be extracted from the ribband. The next picture shows all four timbers removed.
 

 
Some new pine spacers have been glued in for protection against breakage and to maintain alignment.
 
Replacement pieces were then cut out using some new printouts of the patterns, which were revised some time ago to correct their errors. All the Naiad drawings are being revised as the building progresses to fix errors and reflect other changes made during construction.
 
The next picture shows the first of the new timbers being glued in place, before the excess glue was brushed off.
 

 
Again, temporary soft pine spacers are being used to hold alignment and add strength needed for the fairing process to come.
 
The next picture shows all four new timbers in place.
 

 
Once the glue on these had set overnight they were given a rough fairing. The lower port sills were then installed to add some strength before the next fairing step.
 
The last two pictures show the reworked area after fairing and some sanding. Fairing was done with 100 grit paper on a rounded soft plastic foam sanding block mostly cross grain. The area was then sanded with 220 grit, with the grain of the timbers. Care was taken not to mar the polished ribband.
 

 
The three timberheads are roughly shaped in this picture. Everything needs to be re-bolted. Also, work on the next two ports and the cutting down of all the timbers has begun in this picture.
 
Finally, the last picture shows a closer view of the reworked area.
 

 
With this work done I believe everything on the model is at a consistent standard and I am hopeful that this will have been the last major rework job.
 
 
 
Ed

WELL HAD THE DAY-OFF TODAY TO DO A FEW THINGS, BUT ALSO MADE A LITTLE PROGRESS ON THE CROSS SECTION TO. THIS IS A REALLY FUN SCRATCH KIT THAT ADMIRALITY MODELS OFFERS. THANKS DAVID AND GREG... I AM LEARNING A LOT FROM IT....

















 

These are the words, that Maurice used when he got his little serving machine.
 
So here comes my interpretation of it.
 

 
Famous for my lifetime-supply of old Fischer-Technics (luckily my son never was interested in), it can be either turned by hand ...
 

 
... or the motor can be switched down. As it is works by friction and not by the gearwheel, the drive can be stopped easily while working just by holding the axis if any correction is needed
 

 
I did not use hooks but tubes, a wire is used to get the lines through ...
 

 
... and the other side is hold by a toothpic squeezed into the tube. Like this I can shift the serving area to the left or right if longer distances are needed.
 

 
First tests on the trials of the mainstay show a nice result, still showing the structure underneath.
 

 
But it not just works for the big ones, here are the tests for the thinner ropes, this one 0,5 mm thick.
 

 
Here some serving tests. Right the 3/0 fly fishing yarn with the charm of dental floss - very uncool. On the left my usual 8/0 yarn, much better :-) After serving a touch of CA on the ends, still some diluted white glue along the sausage. And juch-huui!
 
Still tried the 6/0 one, the black one on the right, that is a tad thicker and goes therefore faster in serving, that it will be.
 

 
Also tried the direction of serving. Going with the cuntlines - here serving rightwards - results in the serving line getting stuck in the groove and running of, like seen on the right side of the orange one. So always against the cuntlines, that it means :-)
 
And the result? The modelling ropes have the bad habit to flatten if taken around sharp turns. Totally uncool. Not with Dr. dafis non-patented serving machine! Here a rope of 0,5 mm wraps itself gently around a 0,5 mm drill and nicely keeps its form.
 

 
And smaller parts? No prob, if well planned, some of these can be ...
 

 
... nicely placed on the same line like Münchhausens duck hunting :-)
 

 
So have a nice day until it will be shouted again: "Mom, he did it again!!!"
 
Sincereily, dafi
 
PS: This kind of machines can be found in many variations on the net, either to buy or DIY. But this was a great opportunity to proove dear darling wife that it was a wise decision to keep all these items in the cellar, and not to sell, swoop, give as present - or even through away - already many years ago ... XXXDAN

Hello Ian, it may be that swivels were not fitted in that location, do you have a particular class of Frigate in mind. The usual  indication of a swivel gun is the stock into which it fitted. there were usually more stocks than swivel guns carried.
 
The only contemporary model with a beakhead bulkhead I have seen with swivel stocks is of a sixth rate 24 gun ship cica 1740.
this had stocks for swivels on the foc'sle (two each side) the foremost one aft of the cathead.
 
B.E.

Well here she goes......
 

Here's most of the framing work, the dreaded hawse timbers as most of you will remember and the reinstallement of the port stills

Adding the filler pieces. In hindsight it would have been easier to do this during the framing.

Adding the keel, limber board and the first foot walling

Having a bit of fun with the pasta machine and an old rat

Working the aft platform

Getting the magazine in and the other rooms on the aft platform.
 
I still haven't lost the key to the magazine 

The shot locker was rebuild

The upper well

The cisterns

The stem and the ribbands

August 5, 2012.  I have installed the inner strakes.  The inner edge has a rebate for the limber boards and the outer edge is cambered to meet the thinner outer limber strake.  I make the rebate by lowering the blade on the Preac saw to 1.5 scale inches.  The cut-outs are for the well pumps.  The treenails did not stand out well in the photo so I wetted the wood to bive an indication of how they will look after a finish is eventually applied.  The apparent gap between the aft strake and the hull is shadowing.   You can see the difference in appearance between the keelson bolts and the scarf joint treenails as well.
 
Inner Limber Strake




 
August 5, 2012.  I will be using Watco’s Danish Wood Oil for my finish.  It is very forgiving and gives a matte finish if one coat is used and a low luster finish if multiple coats are applied.  I have not seen any change in color over the years .
 
Author: EdT.  Watco Oil is linseed and soya.  It will make the wood yellowish and will darken over time.  If you want no yellow use an acrylic.
 
Author: dvm27.  The Swan cross section was finished with Watco’s.  It does impart a tone to the wood, expecially holly which yellow a bit.  The finish is indeed flat after rubbing out.  The Echo cross section was finished with General Finishes water based sanding sealer (slightly thinned).  The box has not changed color at all, nor has my Pegasus after a couple of years.  I would use the Watco’s if you wish a richer color to the wood or the General Finishes sealer if you want to maintain the rough hewn appearance of a new ship on the stocks.  Greg.  The pictures Greg provided in the original build log were not preserved in the MSW crash. 
 
August 6, 2012.  The outer limber strakes have been added.  Thses taper down from a thickness of 3” to 2” at the fore and aft extremes. As this strake is only 10” wide, the treenails are in a single/double pattern.  The inner strake was 12” wide
and so had a double treenail pattern.

Outer Limber Strake





 
August 13, 2012.  The next stiffeners to tackle are the thick stuff at the floor heads.  There is an internal planking expansion drawing in TFFM. I enlarged it to full size and know it will be a tremendous asset in determining approx plank shapes.  The distances from the outer limber plank to the lower floor head  plank are copied from the expansion drawing.  I transferred the measurement to the hull and ran my masking tape “ribband” to fair the line.  This run of planking is 12” wide and comprised of four planks which taper fore and aft.  The foremost plank is cut out  to accept the fore end of the middle floor head plank.  All of the planks were bent by microwaving them in water, bending them to shape and allowing them to dry overnight.  Before installing them, the treenail locations were varked, pierced and drilled.  Pins hold the plank in place until the glue
dries.  These are blunt 22g pins used for beading.  The holes are 24g so the pins were thinned down with a grinding wheel on the Dremel.    The lower edge of the planks are cambered since the footwaling is thinner.  I have decided to omit the footwaling on the model so as not to completely cover up the internal frames.
 
The middle plank is thicker (14”) and narrows sufficiently in the bow to be dropped.  I made a template of the foremost plank with adhesive backed paper and transferred to to the wood.  The shadowing in the pictures illustrates the difference in the thickness between the lower and middle runs of planking.  The white color in the holes is sawdust.  Two bamboo treenails (tan in color) have been fitted in the fore end of the middle plank.

Floor Thickstuff






August 19, 2012.  I have finally finished the thick stuff at the floor heads.  The planks are drilled for treenails but they have not been inserted yet.  The middle plank is 1” thicker than the outer planks.

Floor Thickstuff



 

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