druxey

Thanks for the reply. Since this thing was staring at me while waiting for the parts I went back and started beveling the other planks. Ran some dry fits and ended up increasing the garboard plank bevel as well. I'm feeling better about the bevels than I was before, I'll just need to make sure I pay as much time and attention to the port side when I get there.
 
Believe it or not, I still don't have the replacement sheet. Based on tracking, I'm expecting it to show up either today or tomorrow. Not all bad; the waiting has given me time to pick up a few extra tools, put together a more organized workspace, and read up on tips, historical accuracies, etc. I also caved last night from the Model Expo sales and ordered the next two boats in the shipwright series (the pram and lobster smack). The kit also came with the dory I'm currently working on so it may be interesting to revisit after founding these skills. I also picked up a non-beginner ship for a pretty good price.
 
Up until now I've been rummaging through a plastic bin to grab tools, leaving them in random spots on the table, on a nearby box, chair or floor. This will help keep me focused on the build, rather than searching for a tool I just set down.

Superb work, as ever!

Interesting discussion! BTW, 3DSW, I think you meant 'pinnace', not 'pinnacle'. Worn paintwork looks great.

Interesting discussion! BTW, 3DSW, I think you meant 'pinnace', not 'pinnacle'. Worn paintwork looks great.

Valeriy. I assume you spray painted the hull. The waterline (white) band seems very wide. I assume it is to scale so is there a reason for it being so wide? The pedestals are of an interesting design. 

And now some paint on top.  

Perfect, Valeriy. 

I welcome everyone!
  The painting process took some time.
The photo shows the hull of the model after covering it with primer.

Thanks Gary!  
Wood is an unusual material for me, so I spend more time on it than on brass.

I see that you are not only a master in brass, but in wood also.  The wheelhouse is very clean, crisp and precisely made. So too is the hatch and decking. Excellent!
 
Gary

Wooden bulwarks on the bridges of a steamship.

Thank you all for your kind reviews and likes!  
 
I continue making wooden parts for the model.
The photo shows the cargo hatch cover.

Interesting discussion! BTW, 3DSW, I think you meant 'pinnace', not 'pinnacle'. Worn paintwork looks great.

Interesting discussion! BTW, 3DSW, I think you meant 'pinnace', not 'pinnacle'. Worn paintwork looks great.

I used 0.6 x 0.6 mm brass wire for nailing the frames.

Thanks guys....Had a lot of fun and will be back this evening...
 


 
One Note
 
I was contacted while away with an issue about frame 2F.   Its really weird because I cant replicate this.  My laser files for this 3/16" thick top timber shows the correct part for the top timber.   No worries though.  This is an easy fix.  I have not been contacted by any others so it may even be a one off thing.  But if you have the same issue.  Just send me a PM or an email and I will send you a new set of top timbers for 2F right away.  
 
Dont reply here .....send me an email or PM!!!!  Include your name and address info as well.   I will ship immediately.   I will cut a whole bunch when I return and have them ready to ship just in case anybody else has this same issue.
 

Do you have any illustration of what you mean by this?
 
It's basically a matter  of dividing the space available by the number of planks.
Have you looked at the planking videos by Chuck?   They show how to get a better fit of the planks by 'edge bending'.
 
 
Sometimes a " drop plank " at the bow will help you avoid planks that become too narrow at the stem.

A drop plank reduces two planks to one.  The problem with doing this with a kit is that it requires wider stock than the basic planking stock, so it may not be practical with the kit you are building.
You should be able to work around this by just making the ends of the planking more narrow than the drop plank would provide.
I assume we are talking bout the Sherbourne you are building, so I think you could get some ideas by looking at Chuck's Cheerful. The lines are very similar.
It is a single plank model, but the run of the planking will be much the same as your 2nd planking on the Sherbourne.
Chuck has the instructions for Cheerful at his Syren Ship Model Co. Here is a link to Chapter 4 which covers the planking below the wales.
 
 

Isaiah, that's what I meant to say in one of these messages. I am aware of Vanguard's good design, but that can't be replicated in a home shop without some kind of ludicrously expensive and massive CNC machine. 
Fun fact: paper is, in fact, a 3-dimensional object. 

If this isn't the worst mock up you've ever seen, stop lying to yourself. 
My main goal in doing this was to determine whether any of the frames were too wide, and they aren't. My precise measurements earlier in the build paid off. Now, I just have to disassemble this thing without ripping the paper. 

Superb work, as ever!

Never regret time lofting and drawing; if you did it correctly, the actual construction and fairing will be (comparatively) easy!

Never regret time lofting and drawing; if you did it correctly, the actual construction and fairing will be (comparatively) easy!

Superb work, as ever!

Superb work, as ever!

@Thukydides
Thank you for your nice comment, and everyone else for the many LIKES.
 
 
Equipment of the main royal yard – Vergue de grand cacatois
The royal yards are on the 4th floor of the rigging. Since these yards on the La Créole were obviously equipped with lifts and braces, it can be assumed that they were already an integral part of the ship's rigging. In contrast, until the end of the 18th century, the royal sails were often hoisted together with the yards and flown as fair-weather sails only when necessary, i.e. without braces and lifts.
To carry out the tyes for the royal yards of La Créole, I have photos of the original model at my disposal, which a restorer from the Musée de la Marine in Paris kindly photographed in the depot especially for me.
You can't see much in the following picture of a royal yard of the Paris model, except that the tye is somehow knotted and doesn't have a hook like that of the togallant yards.
 

Source: Musée national de la Marine de Paris – La Créole
 
Source: Atlas du Génie Maritime

In conjunction with the depiction of a royal yard from the Atlas du Génie Maritime and various other examples, the tyes may have looked like this.
 

 
My model implementation or interpretation of the tye ø 17 mm (ø 0.35 mm in model scale) for the main royal yard looks like this:


Next I made the parral. The royal yards receive a slightly simpler version of a parral, only served with ropes, without leather covering.


This was followed by the production of the single blocks for the royal yards. These were used to guide the clew lines - The clew lines for the main royal sail had a diameter of 11 mm (in the model scale ø 0.23 mm), accordingly the blocks were around 13.5 cm long (in the model scale approx. 2.8 mm) according to the table in the monograph .



After attaching the grommets as abrasion protection, the equipment of the main royal yard was completed by attaching the braces and lifts.

We then continue with the fore royal yard.
Sequel follows …

Thing is, it's dusty as hell, obscured by a bunch of bubble wrap and unused lengths of baseboard and cardboard floor covers for painting and sheetrock and even more baseboards. I'm not even sure it's been used in my lifetime. It'll be interesting to try out, though. Assuming it even works, it's the only power tool I'll need, save for a drill.