druxey

If you go to the Royal Museums Greenwich site, there are many open boat plans showing davits and windlasses. An example:
 

Well, Chris, you are mastering a number of basic techniques that you can apply to more complex models later. As for the thwarts, it's much easier to trim them down to fit than to stretch them! You did a particularly nice job at the bow transitioning from clinker to flush at the stem. Well done.

See: Atlas 6-inch Lathe (lathes.co.uk) :
 
"Styled to closely resemble its larger brother, the "10-inch", the Atlas 'Model 618'  6" x 18" (3.5" centre height) backgeared and screwcutting lathe was in production from 1936 until 1974 and then, in Mk. 2 form, until 1980. Enormously popular in America - it was affordable and with a specification that allowed it to undertake the majority of jobs likely to be encountered in a home workshop - its likely that the lathe made its first appearance not as an Atlas but badged for the mail-order company Sears, Roebuck under their Craftsman identification tab as the 101.07300. This initial Craftsman model, which carried an inadequate 3/4" x 16 t.p.i. spindle thread, a headstock that lacked backgearing and a countershaft unit and belt-tensioning arrangements of a very elementary, lightweight design, was sold at the very competitive price of $42. However, it was made for one year only before being replaced by the much better specified 101.07301--as listed in the post 1938 catalogs shown here :
 

Craftsman 6-inch Lathe Catalog Extracts (lathes.co.uk)
 
Note advertisement text in left-hand column: "Ground steel spindle runs in auto-lubricating bronze bearings that are adjustable."
That may simply be a belt issue. I've heard several reports of surprisingly smoother and quieter running of the very similar Atlas/Craftsman 12" lathes when old standard drive belts were replaced with correctly-sized new Accu-link adjustable link "V" belts or the equivalent. The Accu-link belts are a boon for lathe owners because they permit belt changes without the need to disassemble the headstock and back-gearing assemblies to get a non-opening belt around the belt wheels. 
 
There's no problem at all turning wood on a metal lathe other than the need to keep the lathe clean. Wood chips and shavings and sawdust easily finds its was into motor armatures and gearing, quickly absorbs oil, and creates a nasty gunk that isn't particularly healthy for high-tolerance machine tools. Sheilding from sawdust and careful vacuuming up after wood working is required for proper maintenance. That said, if one has any great amount of wood turning to do, it's probably easier to buy a wood lathe, which are relatively inexpensive, especially on the used market, than to keep a machinist's lathe clean if it's being regularly used to turn wood.
 

Good move Chris,

The one in the centre is apparently Nelson's sword found in his cabin after Trafalgar.
The ones right and left are the surrendered French and Spanish swords.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.
 

For some parts yes, for most parts not.
The first models appeared just after the wreck was recovered. Based on information at that time.
This model, and the caldercraft model, are based on this early info.
in fact they have turned a carrack into a kind of a galeon. 🤢
 
buy and read.😉
 
 

A pleasure to watch your thread Patrick.
Ab

With the port side also ready, the standards are made to height. A simple way to measure, is to use a wooden plank as a template.

 
A mold for the semi-circular gun ports. This is slightly conical, so up to the arrow and no further, otherwise the hole is too big.

Ready.

This is how far we have come, next is the last piece of planking on the bow.

Thanks for following

I've been pondering that length problem, Alan. As 168' 0" was never crossed out on the contract and replaced with 175' 0" and the 'as launched' draught states 168' 0", I'd say the longer measurement is a red herring. Fergeddabahtitt!

Well, if you are a fool (and I don't think that you are), you are a consistent one at least! That hull does look very sleek now.

I realize that after a long day's work one's focus may not be the best, Alan. But we are cheering you on, nevertheless!

I've no idea what the Newtonian ring effect is telling me, but it looks interesting!
 
Going back to your earlier post showing the extract from the contract, I was amused at the notation: '0 feet and 13 inches'!

Well, Chris, you are mastering a number of basic techniques that you can apply to more complex models later. As for the thwarts, it's much easier to trim them down to fit than to stretch them! You did a particularly nice job at the bow transitioning from clinker to flush at the stem. Well done.

Well, if you are a fool (and I don't think that you are), you are a consistent one at least! That hull does look very sleek now.

A pleasure to be-hold, is it not? (Sorry, couldn't resist that.)

And... the magic begins to show! Lovely work, as ever, Gary.
 
Off topic, the eclipse: If one believes that it is all a coincidence in size and distance.... BTW, in Niagara we were almost totally cloud covered that day. Sigh.

Impressive photo!

Likewise. A little late to the party, but... A lovely model of an unusual subject. Well done, Geert!

That is such a pity. I do understand why you would want to re-make the spar. At least a topgallant has fewer parts attached than a lower yard!

Lovely neat joinery as usual!

Just catching up with you, Alan. You'll be glad you corrected the orlop, as it would otherwise affect the line and clearance of the deck above and....
 
Drilling hawse holes is a very iffy thing, as you've discovered. Years ago I figured out a new strategy: I filed half-round grooves in the hawse pieces before assembling them on the model. The diameter was just slightly undersize and just required touch-up filing to final size. No chance of tear out or breaking off a hawse piece, plus the upward angle and parallelism to the keel of the hole was established and controlled.

That looks really nice, Mark. Those small brass nails were called panel pins in England, I believe. I have a stash of them that used to be my father's. 

Nice to see a more unusual subject, Colin. Your 'good enough' certainly is!

I mentioned this project quite a while ago on a page dedicated to the building of a Victorian racing yacht so I thought it might be worth updating it as a separate topic now I am back modelling after quite a while restoring a 1930 Singer Six car, a 1937 Singer Coupe and a 1952 MG TD imported from Texas!  This is a typical smack of about 40' LOD which I'm modelling at 1/2":1'.  The plans are non-scale so I have been using proportional dividers to scale up, plus I am constantly scouting the net for details that the plans do not show.   I am using lime for most of the boat as sheets in various thicknesses are readily available and it works really well with hand tools and my small bandsaw.  It will be apparent that I am not a precise modeler, being very much of the 'good enough' school, and I have used filler to fair the hull as I plan to paint her in traditional colours and hopefully evoke a working boat.  I'm currently making templates for the covering boards and cutting deck planking to scale, but i will paint the hull before planking as I will leave the deck unpainted even though most surviving boats have their decks sheathed and painted.      

What a difference some paint makes.   Bulwarks are painted however as usual, I will be applying many more thin coats over the next few weeks as I progress.   
 
Before and after...
 

 

Interesting collection of accessories. The wiring looks a but dodgy, though! Caveat emptor.