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channell

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Posts posted by channell

  1. you carry on and offer any remarks after all we are all here to learn, otherwise we would not post our stuff

    but wrt to your comment, do you mean all the vertical pipes or the lift assembly on the left, that caused me the most grief, as i don't have anything that looked suitable for the job, unless i was to order some plastic strut (other makes are available)

    i did notice that on the underside of the top platform there are two hatches, but not on the detailed side, im not going to slate the manufacturer, as it is not on the PE kit

     

    I guess it would be the lift pipe on the left.

     

    It was quite a bit smaller and less conspicuous on the original:

     

    https://bundesarchiv.de/cross-search/search/_1384793220/?search[view]=detail&search[focus]=218

     

    Evergreen styrene strip comes in various small round diameters and is only a couple bucks... it might be a good way to recreate it.

     

    BTW... not sure if you already know but this site (the German archives) has almost 400 really great pictures of the Bismarck coverin almost all of the exterior superstructure in great detail... it is an awesome (and free!) resource. Just type in "schlachtschiff bismarck" in the search...

  2. Well, you're getting a lot more done on the beast than me lately... I've been sadly short of free time for my (now 2) Bismarcks. :unsure:

     

    Just my $.02 but it may help to change strategies... instead of taking the "shotgun approach", divide the ship up into sub-assemblies that you complete entirely 1 by one before going on to the next section... think of them as little complete models of the Bismarck's turret Cesar, funnel or admiral's staff quarters, ect.  that go together as a diorama which happens to be the complete ship. Luckily, Trumpeter's kit engineering makes this fairly easy. When one section is done, celebrate... call it finished and put it up on a display shelf or somewhere safe and move on to the next section.

     

    I say that because you WILL get overwhelmed eventually... a fully detailed 1/200  battleship isn't that far below a full-rigged wooden man o' war in difficulty or frustration potential. Don't forget to give yourself some victories along the way to keep the flame alive! :piratebo5:

  3. Hello my friend

     

    I have another ?

     

    the square windows on the bridge, have you seen a PE kit fro them, reason for asking is i have seen a photo, on one of the build sites. where he/she had high-lighted all the glazed area in a different shade, but appeared to have a screen/frame around all the squared windows

     

    Hi Kevin!

     

    If it's the build I'm thinking of, they came from here: http://www.modellschlachtschiffe.de/shop/product.asp?numRecordPosition=5&P_ID=480

     

    But I wouldn't order from this company as there have been multiple complaints on MW about them taking money but never deilvering their product.

  4. I regard Bismarck as the most slender and elegant battleship ever built. The Germans certainly built the best ships in my opinion.

     

     I wonder how she would have faired against the U.S.S Missouri in combat  ?

     

    That would all depend on whether Indiana Jones was on the Missouri or not. :D

     

    BTW, still looking good Kevin! I really like the display case idea!

  5. hello my friend

     

    where did you obtain the mesh for the engine inlets on the sea chest, i have been unable to find it in the aber website ( as per the flory) build

     

    or is in the deluxe fitting package?

     

    Hi Kevin! It's just brass mesh screen that I had laying around my "model dungeon" and cut to fit the intakes. I bought it at a hobby shop years ago... I think it was in the model railroading section.

     

    It's not actually accurate and KA didn't provide them; but White Ensign is going to offer some for a fairly reasonable price:

     

    https://www.whiteensignmodels.com/p/WEM+1200+Bismarck+Sea+Chest+Intake+Grilles+PE+2017/20033/

  6. Hi Kevin

     

    Can I side-track slightly and ask a quick question? Why is the 'Lower' bow section missing/separate from the hull build?

    Love the detail on this kit, a much much smaller version of this boat was amongst my very first builds ever!

     

    Eamonn

     

    My best guess is so the hull can be molded cheaper/more efficently; otherwise the bulgy lower bow would cause problems. It doesn't end up that way in the end anyway ; there is a seperate lower bow section.  

     

    The other theory is so Trumpeter can more easily do a  rumored Tirptiz in the future, though the entire bow would would be wrong for the Tirpitz, not just the bottom.

  7. i saw a photo yesterday with the hanger doors open, i have mine slid over but would now like it in the fully open position, ill look at it tonight, 

    i will be following a lot of the recommendations you have discussed in the other forums, but at this time - i am not redoing all the port holes,

     

    i am enjoying it so far

    i was looking at the different paint makes today and had wondered about the Lifecolor’s Kreigsmarine color set

     

    I haven't tried it but I was thinking about getting the Lifecolor set for Bissy #2. 

     

    Redoing all the portholes is a giant pain; can't say I blame anyone for not wanting to do it! B)

  8. It looks like a great effort so far! The KA MK1 detail set really takes the kit to the next level!

     

    Don't know if you know already but I'll add a couple of tips that may help your build...

     

     

    Liquid plastic cement melts and "welds" the plastic; there is no good way to clean it up other than old fashioned sanding (and putty if neccessary) after everything is dry.

     

    The KA set included porthole rings; it's the easiest way to improve the warped kit portholes.

     

    Plain old Elmer's white glue is the best stuff I've found to do tiny PE parts; it makes a surprisingly good bond and shrinks as it dries, leaving no residue... provided you use it sparingly. CA (superglue) works best for larger PE parts that require some strength to them.

     

    You can build an authentic Bismarck without the giant Swazticas on the deck; she didn't get them painted on until the early part of 1941. During Operation Rhineburg itself, the Swazticas were painted out with grey paint... so in reality, they weren't there for the majority of Bismarck's service life.

     

    When it's time to paint, remember Bismarck's hull was painted a slightly darker shade of grey than the superstructure. Doing likewise on the model really improves the look of it.

     

    Tamiya's Fine Surface Primer is expensive stuff but it is fairly close to the light grey color of Bismarck's superstructure and works well for spray-painting without obliterating detail.

     

    I'm getting close to starting my second 1/200 Bismarck; I'll be happy to help if you need it, just let me know!

  9. I thought I'd add another update; I am getting close to finishing this monster finally after almost a year...

     

    EvdVQLg.jpg

     

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    97IDDSw.jpg

     

    6tm0NQj.jpg

     

    uG2CWlD.jpg

     

    I am now in the process of addind the last details around the ship that I have missed . Gotta say I'm a bit scared of the rigging but this isn't the HMS Victory so I do feel lucky about that! :D

  10. Hi Channell,

     

    Superb build just about to embark on my journey, Can I ask how did you come by the up scaled drawings I see on the wall behind the Bismarck.

     

    Bozzy

     

    They came with the Kagero Bismarck book ( http://www.amazon.com/The-Battleship-Bismarck-Super-Drawings/dp/8361220755/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1379609757&sr=8-2&keywords=kagero+battleship+bismarck )... they are mostly in 1/350 scale except for a couple illustrations. If you are about to "build the beast" this book is a "must have"!

  11. just read your log, im impressed, it's a shame that with all the extras that can be added,  they cannot get the basics right - like portholes, - well done,

     

    Yea, Trumpeter is a bit infamous for stuff like that. Luckily (with a little bit of patience) the porthole problem can be fixed. At this point in the build I am glad I took the extra time to do it... I think it really makes a difference on the (almost) finished product.

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