BLACK VIKING

Well I am laying down more future to the whole fuse today.I tried some Tamy Wash again down to the lacquer silver and stopped in one little spot again I am leaving it looks convincing but I want to control that effect.I can only figure the those areas did not have enough gloss and was eating the enamel's.I think also I am going to make a run with some burnt umber oils and thinner do not want any catastrophe's at this point of the build.So,I move on to the main gear and wheels I guess and some paint to the wings.The L/nacelle the rear engine mount was drilled for a tube that may hook up to Tamy electric motors then a set of Potentiometers one for each motor.If I feel so inclined to take this route then this puts a whole nother build into play a dio to which I found these today  https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Models-32001-1-32-B-25-Mitchell-Crew/383418840904?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D225086%26meid%3Dc9ddb42c2f0e4fc394f7c2b5a1eaf5e2%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D383418841324%26itm%3D383418840904%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A1573c3ed-599c-11ea-b52a-74dbd180a963|parentrq%3A883e4eea1700aadad8a1cf5cfff65036|iid%3A1   I don't know been a long build and aching to join a GB on another site just a 1/72 B-25 Airifx MKII Kevin

She gets even Bigger Kevin
 
and a better look at Miss Runyon

3D seaman takes a lot of time from drawing to production, and it's a huge project, which I will continue to increase, including officers, combat status, British, French... These themes are very many, but very fun
1: 64 or 72 percent will be gradually produced, which is very convenient,
I haven't started WW1 and WW2 themes yet, which should take a little time. Now the general themes are 1:350
 1/64 scale  warships, super huge👍

It is truly a hard area of the hobby to fill, as it seems everyone has a different desire and size wish. I personally wish you luck and success Tom, as I also enjoy having people on my models to help bring them alive.

I have decided to start this  along with my  Mossie kit,   as there will be times when I can not get the spraying done  outside  due to the weather, so it gives me things to get on with.
 
I won this  in ebay for a knock down price   - it is an open box  but all bags are sealed,    the ICM  version of the Spit  IX   is  renowned for being the most accurate  model of a Spit  in this scale,  I will build her more or less  straight out the box  as  I understand the cockpit  and parts are very very good.
 
So to start with  - here's the  top box art  and  quick look at the bag  contents.
 
I do apologize I put the complete wrong box pic up  - how I dont know  - This is the Right One.
 
OC.
 

Mike, you are right. I used a spliced eye out of ignorance. Thank you very much to inform me about the anchor bend; yesterday I rectified my poor seamanship and gave my anchor an anchor bend.

 

14.2 The anchor
The inventory contains also a small brass anchor.

 

 
Thank you for the likes
Thank you to follow
Thank you for the constructive comments.
 
Till next week!

Very nice. Just wondering if you will be producing these in 1-64 scale as I would be the first to bye 
Martyn

any time is a good time Thomas.  the book on KG 200 was very helpful with this subject.  at any given time,  the KG 200 had around twenty B 17's that were flyable...they also had an assortment of other planes,  as well as British Spitfires and who knows what else    B 24's and B 25's were also captured and studied.  this is a subject that really hasn't attracted too many modelers........an obscure subject to be sure.  but I stumbled onto it and it was so unique,  that I had to try it.  I think it worked out very well    the idea was so interesting to do,  that I made up my mind to do another project that is somewhat obscure......I read about it......I've even seen it,  but I have the perfect model for it,  and I decided to give it a go.  sadly....it's not a plane.  I may not go into this subject again.......but I have a habit of checking out ever link that's sent to me { I wouldn't be a modeler if I didn't}.
thanks for the head's up     hope to see you in one of my other projects....promise......... I'll give you a good laugh   
 
I was hoping you'd look in J...........yea....this plastic stuff grabbed me by the golden globes and won't let go.  kind of refreshing to work with wood again....and with you {not gett'in mushy or anything like that} "brothers don't shake hands.........Brother's hug!   leave it to me to pick the strangest projects.....aye!  glad you like the model.....just a tad more I want to do,  and then I'll have the finished photos.   thank you my friend!
 
hey......and thank you all for the likes!    I appreciate the interest during my insane episode........I hope I can come up with another ............soon

Good day all,
 
Firstly  a Big thank you  for all the likes and comments,
 
Right,   another good day  -  I had a go  at  hiding the difference between the nose glazing unit and the  fuselage,  I cut  a  narrow strip of paper about 2mm  wide then using watery pva I  stuck it down following the nose glazing, then I joined it underneath and trimmed it.    I sealed it using a bit of top coat,  next  I  painted  the cockpit canopy frame  with a couple of coats of top coat,   then put it aside to dry.
I then packed inside the bomb bay  and entrance hatch  with tissue paper  - and  covered the  rear wheel  with tape.
 
When the main canopy  was dry  I glued it  in place.
 
So the fuselage is now ready  for its first spray of Tamiya surface primer  - just need to wait for a  dry day  as all  spraying  has to be done out doors.
 
OC.

sounds good.......glad there is some light at the end of the tunnel.   for all the pain and aggravation that it's worth.........welcome to the rabbit hole   
 
you see the mad hatter, give 'em a hail
he'll call you over and join you in an ale
{no tea.....that's the kid's version  } 

I did think about aftermarket stuff but then found the main UK distributor for Hasegawa and dropped them an email,  the upshot being they are posting replacement parts to me😆 should arrive sometime next month as they are awaiting new edition of the Dauntless. So I'm just poking my head down the rabbit hole for nowUntil then I'll get some painting done or a bit more planking on Triton. 
Thanks for dropping by and all the likes. 
Cheers 😃👍

Thank you very much,
I have a good time these days. These sailors will bring more fun to the model, make the model more vivid and energetic
Tom
 

I was in the spare room most of the day today........Wulfie is sitting on the table that we do puzzles on {I've taken it over at the moment}

still waiting for her finishing touches  

https://cafmodel.com/captain-1-48-p0055.html
Products are increasing


 

Finished installing the dead eyes on the port side hull, permanently attached the main mast today and started the static rigging.

 

Good day all,   more work today  -  I decided to  glue the front fuselage  in one go  as my original idea would have bottle necked me,   it glued quite well  secured with tape  - all the seams closed ok,    while this was setting  I had a go at the wheels  - these needed  joining  together  then I worked on  creating a flat on each bottom  them  opening up the treads.
 
OC.

I have shaped the profiles that have to run from the cat-head supports to the upper rail.  It wasn't easy, I had to heat the profile to bend sideways.

 
Continued work on the upper gundeck lids. Fixed hinges.

 
Fixed eyelets, the 3mm once supplied with the kit and added rings to them I made from copper wire as I couldn't find small enough for the job. 



 
Adding thread to the gun-port lids.  In the instructions manual it tells you to drill 5mm holes in the hull and insert the other end of the thread in it.  I wanted to make something more realistic to the real once.

 
 
I had some very small brass tubing, 1mm x .225mm thin wall, cut very small pieces, about 4mm/5mm in length and blackened them.  I will drill a hole in the hull were the tubing will be inserted and glued leaving just a small part protruding out.  The thread will be inserted inside the tube.

 
This is one of the lids fitted in place.  There are a few of the lids which are just under the channels and it would be very difficult to fit with the channels in place so I fitted them before the channels.

 
I fitted the chain plates to the dead eyes before I glued the channels in place.  I blackened the chain plates.  When I dry fitted the channels I realised that for some reason the base of the chain plates that is pinned to the hull was not really in the right place, they were lower.  Good thing the channels were still just dry fitted because I had to reopen some of the chains and shorten them by cutting off part of them  and reshaping them again. 

 
Profile from cat-head support to rail in place, black paint needs retouching.  Channels fitted in place and chain plates pinned in place.  This is the port side.  Still have to pin the chain plates on the starboard side as I ran out of round headed pins and I am waiting for some more from CBM.  When pinning the lower parts of the chain plates I suggest you temporarily block the gunports below, I used masking tape,  as it is quite easy to drop the lower part of the chain plate inside one of them and there is no way you can get it back and you have no extra once.  Don't remember how many times I dropped them on the floor and had to look for them until I find them knowing I have no extras.




 
Robert

Still unsure how to go about fitting the deadeye strops I sent an email to Caldercraft and by the following day I received a pdf file with the attached details and told me that the nubs are pressed into place on the channel which compresses this section of the strop and this compression helps to hold the strop while the shrouds/chainplates etc are fitted.  

 
To make sure the strops won't prise open or move from place while fitting the shrouds and chainplates I decided to make some adjustments.
I soldered the nubs together to make sure the strop does not prise open.


 
 
With a round nosed pliers I pressed together the middle of the lower part of the strop.

 
Drilled a hole on the side of the slots on the channel to take the nubs, always on the same side.  I reinforced the the wood around the holes by applying a drop of superglue.

 
Fitted the strop in the slots on the channel at the same time inserting the nubs in the drilled hole.  You might need to trim a bit of the slot edges to allow the strops to move just a bit sideways.  Do not glue the strops with the channel, at least for now, as they have to be aligned in line with the shrouds.

 
The soldered area will be covered when fitting the walnut strip across the edge of the channel.

 
The images above show the 5mm deadeyes.  The 7mm deadeyes will look something like this.

I will upload more images of the finished channels later on as I have only tried the strops on one of the channels.
I hope this upload will be of some help to anyone who encounters the same problem.
 
Robert

I've been pulling all nights this week so not alot to show.The fuse was married some days ago and sanded when I had ambition and time to which I broke out 3Xbombs,busted the mount for the upper ball turret and broke the 50cal out of the nose piece.Good thing all are easy repairs and the only one left to fix is the bombs going to wait till the paint is laid.I took the advantage of the nose gun coming loose to retread with the appropriate color thread of grey and most of the masking is just about done.The plane is huge the bottle of paint was to show the size but it really does not work but I can tell you the tail is about 7/8" across the wingspan of a 1/48 fighter.I am going to finish the wings before I move on to the engines.Thks for looking in Kevin

Well I haven’t thrown it in the wood stove yet 😂. There are a lot of these frames...onward.
 

with what I've read,  it depended on what time of service the craft was used.  take the B 17.........depending on the segment of service {and what squadron},  the call letters and numbers can be a certain color......early seemed to be yellow.......mid war was black,  and towards the end was white.  some were even white outlined in black or red.  I found that out when I ordered that sheet of letters and numbers........I found out that they had their limitations.......I would have to order additional sheets to widen the scope.  it's the same with the insignias...........JEEEEEE....stick with one banner people.....pleeeeeze! { my rant with the military}  they make it soooo hard on us modelers!  
 
look'in good Mark

Thanks mark,      I will  post the link when its Live.
 
OC.

Also  with  the Mosquito  society  I am involved with  - I was asked if I would do a write up  about my late farthers involvement  with Mosquitos  and other aircraft during the Second world War.
 
This is what I have come up with  and submited  for them to publish in there  publication.
 
OC.
 
                                                                                       My Farther and his Aircraft Work
 
This is a story about my farther and his involvement with military aircraft during his time-serving through the Second World War.
He was Called J.J and his service life started by enrolling in the FAA (Fleet Air Arm) he was allocated his posting to HMS Daedalus (Lee - On - Solent) to do his basic training in Airframes and Engines, during his time here, he was shown most aspects of maintenance and stripping down of the aircraft that started with the Fairey Swordfish and went on to the Seafire and also the Corsair.
Around this time the RAF was suffering with a shortage of front line workers, so this led to my farther being sent RAF West Mailing to undergo Deep maintenance training on Spitfires and Hurricanes, after a successful time here he then got his posting to Norfolk where he would spend the rest of his service life.
RAF Downham Market and Marham are the two bases where he undertook maintenance on the RAF bomber fleet, he was thrown in at the deep end due to a serious shortage of staff, I remember my farther telling me he was delighted to get his hands on the larger aircraft. He was given some short training on the types in service there - Lancasters, Wellingtons, Short Stirlings and my fathers favorite the Mosquito.
He told me a few stories at Downham one in particular involved a landing Lancaster that had been quite badly shot up during a raid over to Germany, the rear tail gunner had been hit - during the landing when the aircraft came to a halt on the runway, my farther ran over to the plane risked his own life as the plane was in flames as it had to land with no undercarriage, he ran to the rear of the plane and pulled the tail gunner out - getting burns him self in the process.
With his time on the Mosquito he used to tell me of the repairs he used to do - one minute doing wood repairs to parts of the aircraft, then the next mechanical repairs to the Merlin engines, he found the Mosquito a lot easier going than the Lancaster due to the hight (lack off) with the Mosquito (suited him as he was not all that tall). He used to say to me that the Merlin engines were so powerful, that they were always needing to have there mounting bolts and screws checked to make sure they had not worked loose. Also how during taxi under power men would have to sit on the tail to keep it from lifting and spinning the tail due to the power from the engines. It was amazing to hear stories from my dad of faster and faster speeds being recorded in the Mosquito - out pacing the Spitfire no doubt not best pleased for the Spitfire pilots, I think he recalls one particular Mosquito nearing 450mph in a dive (how true that is im not sure).
My farther was frequently servicing the RADS (Radiators) from the Mosquitos normally on the bench in the hangars as they tended to collect a lot of stuff from the speed they flew, this was time-consuming work but after doing one or two the rest were just like a production line.
My farther would sometimes find him self posted over to RAF Marham about 4 miles away, this was only for short periods no doubt because of his skills and experience, again the same kind of work went on here I understand they had two operational Mosquito squadrons running up to D Day, he said "you have never seen so many black and white bands being painted on aircraft".
He also mentioned the work done with the Bouncing Bomb - my farther told me about the trials done using a Mosquito to test the Bomb, as the trials were carried out in Scotland I am not sure if there was ever a visit to either Downham or Marham by that Bouncing Bomb conversion Mosquito.
My farther ended his Aircraft work just after the war and ended in Europe, as he was shipped over to Australia by boat to undertake the role of stripping down "Lend Lease" aircraft that were used during the Pacific wars, these aircraft (Fighters) were dismantled down to a crate size for shipping back over to Britain. He spent a couple of years in Australia before returning back to Britain to be Demobbed.
 
He loved the whole experience.
 

Hello All, 
As mentioned in post#11 some of the frames were a loose fit on the false keel, both fore and aft and athwart ships. To rectify this problem spacers made from 0.5mm timber were glued to either side of slot in the frame and to the fore or aft side of the slot in the false keel, a centre line was also marked onto the frames and the spine of the keel for alignment purposes while they were sanded.
               
     
After they dried they were sanded until they were a snug fit on the false keel, being careful to take a small amount off each side of the slot to ensure the marks lined up. They were then dry fitted to the keel again.
    
    
I decided I wanted to mount the model on pedestals, as suggested in the manual, so the next job was to drill mounting holes through the keel and into the false keel. There are two mounting holes one positioned between frames three and four and the second between frames five and six aft of the slot for the mainmast, also as mentioned in post#11 I intend to not to attach the keel and stem post until after the fairing of the frames is completed, so I also drilled some dowel holes in the keel, stem and sternpost to help align them squarely to the false keel and to strengthen the joint.
   
   
   
The size of the mounting holes is 3mm and the dowel holes are 1 mm and will be fitted with bamboo dowels when the keel and stem are fitted.
thanks for looking and the likes.