BLACK VIKING

I took a break today from making blocks and rope to test rig one of my guns.  I think it all worked out well enough.  It had been many many years since I rigged any guns.  I think Cheerful was the last time I did this.
 
Anyway...I went with a 5" single block (5/32") for the tackles with .018 tan rigging.   For the Breach line I went with .055 tan rope.   I also used my acrylic rigging hooks for the tackle but I did make the ring bolts from 24 gauge black wire.  I really wanted to establish the length for the breach line in this test so you guys would know how long to make them.   The Breech line was 6" long end-to-end.   I rigged it just like I did on Cheerful and Confederacy.  These details will be spelled out in a step by step once I rig the other seven.  This was just the first test run.  My goal was to make the guns look like they have some very natural and properly hanging ropes.  I am not sure if I pulled it off but I am happy with the results.   The next 7 guns should get better...as I get used to rigging and rope-work again.
 
And yes...rigging the guns is optional but this time I decided to take the plunge.
 
Chuck
 

While I wait for the internal aftermarket kits to arrive I’ve begun on the engines.
they are not to bad out of the kit. But they are pretty much all hidden under the cowls, otherwise I’d have enjoyed adding details to them. 



painted them silver and gun metal to give some variety and then a black oil wash. Here are two with the wash and two about to have theirs and it makes a big difference.



I don’t have any blue paints apart from my sky blue so decided to try add some dark blue from my acrylic paint set that I use for bits and pieces. I’ve a set of oil paints for all my oil washes and a set of acrylics for all the colours I want to add but don’t need to buy a Tamiya paint for.
so used sky blue and nato black with some of my dark blue paint and thinned it all down and tried it through my airbrush. And it worked pretty well! I was expecting the cheaper paint to splatter or something but maybe had it thin enough and mixed with tamiya hopefully gives it some strength.
 
once dry I’ll clean up and give a slight grime to stop it all looking brand new. After all it’s meant to be a plane that’s done many missions, but I’m sure the engines were well looked after so will be just a slight grime up.
 
 
 

Vacillating on which blocks to use again! I went through my inventory of blocks, and I have two different lines of wooden blocks that include ones small enough for this model. I'd still LIKE to rig the gun tackles, and that calls for 2mm blocks, though it looks like I could get away with 2.5mm blocks.
 
I have some old Warner Woods blocks, quite a few actually, and fair supply of Master Korabel blocks. Neither of these includes shoulder blocks or long tackle blocks, which the instructions call for, and which are readily available in cardboard form. So, I'm giving the cardboard blocks another chance, seeing if I can assemble ones that don't fall apart when I start to work with them.
 
Meanwhile, I ended up making a couple spars today. Oh My God are these tiny, even at 1/72 scale. I started with the kit dowels, but I ended using some 1/16" diameter birch dowels I have a supply of, as they were smaller diameter to start with. I just used these to make the main gaff and the fore t'gallant yard. 

 
I tapered the dowel accordingly and sanded them down closer to 2.3mm in diameter. That was okay for the main gaff, but the t'gallant yard has a nice laser-etched piece that wraps around the middle to represent the octagonal section or battening. In order to get it to fit, I had to shave down the middle section of the dowel to 1.7mm, creating a slightly recessed section in the center of the yard. Even then, the battening piece doesn't quite wrap all the way around, but it's close enough. The seam will be located on the underside of the yard, and if I mount sails, they will completely cover it up as well.
 

This was more of an effort than I was expecting. But, it's done – 1 yard down, 7 yards to go. Fortunately, this is one of the smallest. The others should all be larger and easier to deal with. At least, that's what I keep telling myself...
 

Hammock cranes done, now for thread and wish me luck for the netting. I got mosquito net in the end soaked in tea. The tulle didn't look that good. 

My riveting tool arrived today, and after some research and practice on spare parts I begun! I read up online that a lot of people recommended 0.55mm tool for 1/72 scale so jumped in with that and made some good progress. Roughly followed my plans and got the upper surfaces of both wings competed.
i think that blade may be abit blunt now! Might have to use the 0.50 for the rest, will see tomorrow.
 

I don’t know how much will be visible after painting a dark colour on it but I’m hoping it’s not too strong nor totally invisible.

It does add a nice effect to it though and looks much nicer than just smooth. It just gives it a bit of life. Over the next few days I’d like to get the fuselage riveted before the it gets glued together. The tail, horizontal stabiliser and under the wings to go. It’s a slow process but hope to get a bit complete over the next few days. By then maybe the internal parts are here and I can begin on the cockpit.

The wing halves are glued together, filled, sanded and panel lines re scribed.
 

 
I have never used a scribing tool before so decided I should get one and was able to give it a go. Seems the days of sanding away panel lines are forever over!
 

 
So next step is preparing for adding rivets, which will take some time!
I ordered a tool so will be here in a week or 2 so plenty of time to get things going.
 

The Tamiya tape is ok but a bit too soft for a nice unmoving edge so some experiments will be needed. A good test of patience!
 
 

Post 27 
Installing the Risers.
This is always a tricky area; getting the risers at the correct height and ensuring that the thwarts sit level and square across the boat.

0173
Careful measuring is required and as with my Queen Anne Barge build I used a simple depth gauge to mark the positions at each frame along the hull.
There is a degree of sheer to the risers and the position does vary slightly along the hull.
Before I commit to glue I do a lot of dry fitting.

0177

0171

0169
This extends to making up dummy thwarts to check the alignment.
 
At near midships the thwart sits 32mm above the footwaling.
This equates to 30” at full scale.
The thwart above the aft platform is 20mm equating to 19”
 In modern parlance this is about the difference between a desktop and a chair.
 
 The dummy thwarts  allow me to use my ½” scale rower to check relative heights.
The 1:24 scale figure at 70mm represents a figure of 5’6” height.

0153

0158
Something looks a little awry here, there seems a very long drop to the footwaling.

0151

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Except that is for the stern sheet section, where the fit is spot on.
The thwarts can’t be any lower because that would throw out the angle for the rowing action.
 
The conundrum is that the same figure used on the 1/2” scale Royal barge model fits well for a realistic rowing position.

01712(2)

01713
Note the stretchers sitting above the bottom boards.

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Royal Barge seating.
 
Unlike the Royal Barge, there are no stretchers fitted to brace the rower’s feet. I don’t recall seeing stretchers or cleats on the bottom boards of 18thc boats.

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Even so he does look somewhat incongruous sitting there.
 
 
Fortunately, I’m not thinking of crewing this model so the disparity will not be apparent.
 
On with the show.
 
 
B.E. 
16/07/2024
 

The keel looks much better now that it is square.
 

 
Planking started.  It is pretty straight forward being a cross section.  I narrowed one plank (so far) to keep everything aligned.
 

 

 

 
Beveling the edges is a bit tricky with the thin strips of wood.  I found it easiest to only bevel one edge.  Beveling may not be needed along the sides of the hull.

Greetings,
We had a great break away for a few days in the Town of 1770 and Agnes Waters. Look them up and you'll see how lucky we are. So much so, that my good wife even allowed me to make shrouds and ratlines on my special jig!

 
Since I've been back, I have done heaps of work on the decks. Most rewarding!

 
From here on, there are a few things to finish 'down below' and on the deck, and then I go UP!!!
 
Thanks for continuing to follow and encourage me on this build. It is always appreciated, especially when I hit the hard bits. 😁
Cheers,

I’ve ordered the cockpit and front internal upgrade sets from Eduard so they will take a few weeks to arrive. I thought most of the other internal areas won’t be visible so just focusing on the parts that can be seen. So I’ve made a start on the wings. 
 

The wheel wells will not be really visible either so will paint them up but won’t add any extra details, but they don’t seem to bad and have a good amount of detail so will be all good.
I am usually abit scared to use putty as Tamiya basic putty always seems too thick and sanding it back removes so much detail. So I looked into it and found out I can thin it with tamiya cement but to be careful as it will shrink lots. To try save loosing details I tried masking the area and only filling in the desired place. I’m yet to sand it but so far I’m happy with how it’s looking.
 

Wheel wells painted with a mix of Tamiya cockpit green, gold and black green. I thought straight cockpit green didn’t seem right and from reading around it sound be a bronze green to represent zinc chromate.
 

 
Brushed oils over the paints with a dry brush to dirty it up and try give it some life. Maybe I’ll do an oil wash also if it still needs something more.
 

 

No updates as I am on vacation with the family. 
 
But! Since we are visiting Stockholm, we went to see the Vasa museum, and that was really incredible! The wow felling you first get when you step into the hall is really rare.
 
I know many people on this forum will have visited the museum at some point, but I will just share a few phone photos with you all here. The exhibit is so well done and you can view the ship from almost all angles.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
If you ever get the chance to go there, this is definitely a must-see kind of thing 😃.
 

With the basic colors brushed on, a clear coat seals it all in. Next, I'll do some more details, then a wash. 
If some of the experienced figure painters here have some tips and tricks to share with me, I'm all ears and will value your advice.
 
PS: the first photo I took at a normal setting (auto), the second was done on macro setting. I wanted to see the difference. Looks like the macro captures the light a bit better. I have no clue why.

Build Log Index
 
Hull Construction Part 1
Date: 11/07/2024
Time worked: 50 minutes
 
After looking over all the plan sheets and then returning home from my afternoon run I had a little bit of spare time so I decided to make a start on the hull construction. So far everything has fitted together perfectly which comes as no great surprise.
 
The first task was to glue 7 off inner keel supports into the inner keel jig base slots. Once that was done the main keel was carefully removed from the 2mm MDF sheet and deburred before it was added, but not glued, into the slots provided on the inner keel support jig. I also assembled the temporary cradle.

 
The next task was to remove bulkheads 1 to 15 from the 3mm MDF sheet and to then slot them into their respective positions on the main keel. These are not glued at this stage of the build process. Before each bulkhead was pushed home I did debur the top edge. It is important to ensure / check they are all fully engaged in the main keel slots.

 
The next parts fitted (but not glued) were the two keel doubler patterns which fit either side the main keel. As with the bulkheads it is important to ensure both these patterns are fully engaged.
 
There are 5 locking pegs which are to ensure the keel doublers are correctly aligned with the main keel. These were pushed in place place without any problems. Wood glue was used to secure the locking key pegs as each one was inserted.
 
Moving swiftly on the lower deck (part 32), which is incorrectly listed as part 12 in the build manual, was slotted in position on the hull frame. Once in place 8 off locking pegs were used to lock the lower deck in place, 4 pegs per side.
 
The 2 off longitudinal supports were fitted next. These can be glued in place. There is a note on Dan’s build log from Chris regarding these supports which I have include below which reads as follows:
 
Regarding the rear most bulkhead, I decided to remove the tab at the end of the longitudinal brace, as it would have been too difficult to slot into place. I should have deleted the holes in the pear stern, but forgot – but they are not at all important to the overall assembly, just surplus.
 
The hull is now starting to take shape.

 
The Brig Adder is quite small when compared with the Indy.

 
According to the build manual the next part to be fitted is the stern transom bulkhead. When reading through Dan’s Adder build log he fitted the sub deck before stern transom bulkhead and then noted there was a small overhang of the sub deck which needed trimming. This is quite normal as Chris noted that he does usually make these type of parts over long to cover all eventualities, better to have too much than too little. I will check the sub deck fitting before I decide if I need to trim it  before it is fitted.

Thanks for your input during my build Egilman, there is a special for you.























Cheers Rob

Well, Bill, I was thinking today about how much I enjoyed scratch-building the structural and ornamental aspects of the build.  At this stage, though, the rigging looks like a steep, uphill climb.
 
The trouble is that I’ve established a standard for the model, and I can’t just do what I’ve done on earlier builds for the rigging.  I won’t be happy with that.  In this scale, it is not really possible to construct ALL aspects of the rig to full scale practice, but I want it to look like that.
 
Right now, I’m figuring out how best to strap single and double blocks with hooks for my carriage tackles.  As you know, the available space to do so is impossibly small.  I’m reading through Dafi’s Victory log because he has so many ingenious jigs and work-arounds for creating scale rigging effects.
 
Because I’m so relatively un-skilled at this aspect of model-making, the going is very slow, and I really have to try not to get overwhelmed by the enormity of the task.  I know, as with anything else, that I will acquire skill and confidence, and the process will pick up momentum.  I find it somewhat helpful to think of each rigging element as a structure, in itself: what is its geometry? what are its component parts? what was it designed to do?
 
On the other hand, if I spend too much time thinking about the finish line, I get an awfully strong desire to box the whole thing up and start a new project.  I have too much time invested to not see it through, though.  I keep the fire alive thinking about these fantastically billowing topsails that I will eventually try to re-create:

This Puget portrait of the Royal Louis is the original inspiration for this diorama, and this version of the RL, circa 1692, is strongly analogous to what SR 1689 would have looked like.
 
One foot in front of the other.  Just keep on going, as I am telling my kids all of the time.  As ever, I am grateful for the help and support of the community.

Many thanks to everyone who has followed, commented and liked my posts for this build log. I have really enjoyed building the Indy. It is an awesome kit.

My next project will be the HM Brig Adder which I am really looking forward to start building once the kit arrives, hopefully later this week!
 
I have taken a selection of some good photo's and some not so good photo's of my completed model.

10
 
 
The cannon is now in its final place in the medieval Burgundy tower.



With these pictures I close this topic.
Thank you so much for all the thumbs-up!
 
Sincerely,
Constant
 
 

Got the seats installed. I think it looks pretty good, except the bare wood of the seat and backrest bases can be seen between some of the cushions where spacing had to be adjusted. If I were to do over, I'd paint stripes before gluing on the cushions. I don't think this will be real noticeable after the cabin is completed, and the view inside will be only from the sides.
 

Anchor cable Rigging – Pegasus
 
I have been contacted a couple of times recently about the rigging of the anchor cables along the deck of Pegasus.
It seems I missed the inclusion of this element when I reconstituted my Pegasus log after the great crash.
So, for the benefit of any who may be interested this is a summary of my approach.
 
Anchor Cable.
The given size is 13" circ which scales to 1.64mm dia. I have gone for a slightly larger dia.  preferring the look of Moropes 1.75mm stuff.

1983
As a nod to authenticity this is left hand cable laid rope, as it should be.
 
I considered how to pass entry down the Main Hatch;
Was the grating removed during the cable stowage process, or were there cut outs in the hatch grating to take the cables?
Something I missed from the early stages of construction tffm shows the Main hatch grating in three sections, so the forward one could be removed to allow passage of the hawser.

2010
The grating was modified to reflect this.

2091
One of the drawbacks of using non-natural Morope is the springiness of the line, which is a big disadvantage when it comes to things like anchor cables where an appearance of weightiness is desirable.
To counter this I immersed the line in diluted pva, followed by stretching to take the spring out of the cable before fitting.

2019
In reality the cables would be stored in the hold but of course there is no hatch on the lower deck. When I fit the cables they will be weighted and coiled neatly out of sight on the Lower deck.
If you are considering adding the anchor cables to the model, beyond simply stuffing the rope ends into the hawse holes, early consideration should be given to the Main hatch gratings.
 
Stoppers
While the Riding Bitts took the majority of the stresses on the cable of a ship at anchor, additional security was provided by use of stoppers attached to ring bolts in the deck and seized to the cable inboard of the Bitts.
 
According to Steel these are the proportions of the stoppers.
Cabled 7" ( 0.88mm ø ) Finished length of short stopper before fitting 8' 3" (39mm at scale);seizing with 1" (0.1mm ø) line. attached to cable with a 2" (0.25mm ø)lanyard
 
There are six stopper ringbolts each side of the deck.
These were made from brass rings and eye bolts clenched together and blackened. These ringbolts also doubled up for the relieving tackles of the Upper deck guns.
 
This is what Steel has to say about stoppers.+
STOPPERS. Short ropes, used to check the cable, suspend weighty bodies, and retain the shrouds, &c. in a fixed position, after being damaged, or otherwise. ANCHOR-STOPPERS are used to suspend the anchor, when catted: BITT-STOPPERS are those stoppers used to check the cable: DECK-STOPPERS are used to retain the cable when the ship is riding at anchor: DOG-STOPPERS are used as additional securities when the ship is riding in heavy gales, or bringing up a ship with much sternway, to prevent the cable from snapping at the bitts, and to ease the deck-stoppers: WING-STOPPERS are used for the same purposes as dog-stoppers: SHROUD-STOPPERS are used to confine a shroud together, when damaged, or shot. FORE-TACK, and SHEET, STOPPERS, are for securing the tacks and sheets, till belayed.

STOPPERS, DECK and BITT, are divided into ten short and two long stoppers. The two long stoppers, from a first rate ship to a sloop, are cut sixteen feet; and, when knotted, to be twelve feet six inches. The short stoppers are each cut twelve feet six inches; to be, when knotted, eight feet three inches long. One end of each stopper has a double wall-knot, and the ends led up through the middle, and whipt with spunyarn: the other end is only whipt with spunyarn.
PREPARATIONS NECESSARY TO BE MADE FOR ANCHORING.
On approaching an anchorage, the anchor and buoy are got clear, and a range of cable stretched along the deck suitable to the depth of water. Care should be taken, that nothing is in the way to check the cable, or stop its running out: then, at a proper distance, a turn is taken round the bits with the cable, thus: First pass the cable from the anchor underneath the cross-piece, then take up a bight of the cable abaft the bits, and throw it over the bit-head. The end of the cable is clinched round the orlop beams in the royal navy, and round the main-mast in the merchant service.
It is necessary to have water near the bits to prevent its firing by the friction. Stoppers and ring ropes of all kinds should be ready for use. The stock lashing being cast off, and nothing but the anchor stopper and shank painter retaining the anchor, men are stationed to stand by them, and let go at the moment ordered.

To secure the cable when out, DECK STOPPERS are thus previously prepared: they are turned into the ring bolts on the deck, round a large iron thimble, and fastened with a throat and end seizing. Each stopper has a laniard spliced round the head, under the knot, by which several turns are taken round the cable, and the end stopt.
BESIDES the deck stoppers, others are used as an additional security to the cable; such are the BIT STOPPERS, &c.
BIT STOPPERS. Each stopper is reeved through a hole in the standard knee, against the fore part of the riding-bits, and is turned in or spliced. It has a laniard spliced round the head, under the knot. When used, several turns are taken with the laniard round the cable, and the end stopt. It is to check the cable in bringing up the ship. Another bit stopper much approved of, is about four fathoms long, and tailed out like a nipper at one end, and knotted at the other. Let this stopper be rove through the hole in the standard knee. To pass it, let it be held aft, inside, over the cable, and under the bits, outside the cable; then worm it round the cable before the bits. Then, as the cable runs out and it is required to check the ship, haul tight the worming; and, by the cables drawing forward, it will tighten the stopper, and bend the cable so close to the bits as effectually to bring the ship up. This stopper is not likely to jamb, Therefore is extremely well calculated for bringing a ship up with ease; as, by slacking, and hauling tight the worming, the cable may be suffered to run out, or be checked at pleasure.
In heaving up in a heavy sea, when, by a sudden pitch of the ship, the messenger or nippers give way, this kind of stopper will be found extremely serviceable; for, upon these occasions, this stopper may be always passed ready, and the bight triced up abaft the bits, with a rope-yarn clear of the cable.
 
Another bit stopper, made with a large eye, that it may be thrown over the bit head, and shifted over from side to side, is also much approved of.
 
DOG STOPPERS. One end is clenched round the main-mast, and the other end wormed in the cuntlines of the cable, and stopt in several places; then brought back with several turns over its own part, and the end stopt. It is of little service, unless it be long enough to clap on above the coamings.
WING STOPPERS. One end is clenched round the orlop beams in the wings, and the other end is clapt on as the dog stopper.
RING ROPES are occasionally made fast to the ring bolts in the deck and to the cable, by passing the ends through the ring of the bolt, and through the bight, then clapt on the cable with cross turns, and the ends stopt. Ring ropes may be better single than double; they are passed with less confusion of turns. To pass a single ring rope, and have it in readiness to check upon veering away the cable, take also three slack turns through the ring bolt and round the cable, one before the other, and hold up the parts fair; then take as many slack turns of worming round the cable, before the ring, and they held up fair, leaving sufficient room for the cable to pass through. When the cable is to be checked, haul tight the worming; and by the cables running out, it will readily draw the turns tight through the ring, and bind the cable so close to the ring, as to prove an excellent stopper. Ring ropes are similar to the laniards of stoppers, to check the cable when freshening the hawse, or to add security to the stoppers in a heavy sea.
 
For the stoppers I am using Chuck's tan rigging line .035" which conveniently scales to 0.88mm ø spot on for 7" circ. cable.

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The first job is to attach the stopper to the deck bolt. It should be turned into the ring of the bolt using an iron thimble and finished with a throat and an end seizing.
I use a needle to work the seizings of 0.1mm line.
Good job I hadn't glued the ring bolts in place.
 
At the scale involved for me at least, I don't think it viable to represent the thimble  as it would be very small and thin inside the bight of the stopper line, the throat and end seizings present no difficulties.
 
I  decided to fit three stoppers each side, partly to demonstrate the purpose but mainly to secure the anchor cable and keep it taut from the Bitts to the hatch.
To determine the length of the stopper I did a temporary fit against the anchor cable and marked off the length.
The next real tricky problem is how to represent a Matthew Walker knot at the end of the stopper.
 
Having looked at how you form one of these, I dismissed trying it in a nano second, there are far simpler ways of driving yourself mad.
So, this is my approach:
Take some of the stopper cable and soak it in diluted pva. Form a very tight ring and slice it where the two ends cross. Immediately seal the cut ends with ca.
Using ca apply the ring to the stopper and use more ca to glue the two end of the knot together.
This is the result.

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At scale I think the knot looks ok, the overall length of the stopper is only 15mm.

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The anchor cable is secured along the deck for fitting of the bitts.

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Constant minor adjustment to the cable and the stopper is required as it is seized to the cable, to keep things looking reasonably taut.

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8992

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The anchor cables are coiled and secured between the frames below decks. Note they are crossed as they enter the hatch, this was an accepted practice to make handling easier, and in  modelling terms it also allows a better lay of the cable.
 
So, if you're thinking of attaching the cables to the anchor this job needs to be done at a no later stage than this to avoid access problems on the model.
Note:
This arrangement is stylised in the sense that the anchors are at the cathead but I'm showing the cables around the riding bitts and secured along the deck with stoppers. Securing the anchors like this would normally be when the ship is at anchor, and the stoppers are to relieve the strain on the bitts.
 
My intention was simply to add interest to the deck details whilst showing how anchor cables were secured.
 
B.E.
 
08/07/2024
 
 

An amasing achievement. Excellent work! 

Well done, gentlemen!

9
 
After the photo shoot at the contractor’s workshop. The cannon is now dismantled again and in parts it goes to the medieval tower where it will be constructed on its final place. This will probably happen tomorrow.
I'm very happy with the result!
 

I decided some more fiddling was necessary. I wasn't happy with the red stripes on the turban and sashes; they just looked painted on. So I went back and added a darker shade of red at the interface with the yellow and I think it improves things. Still some room for improvement; maybe I should have added something to define the line properly - next time. Unfortunately I see a bit of yellow to tidy up now

I also used a tiny bit of putty to build up the wrist which was a bit distorted after the multiple falls and rebuilds. Its a little better.
I cut the white metal guidon off the lance and replaced it with a piece of foil which is much better. I added the top of the lance to the figure and, again, due to the shifts in the pose of the figure it doesn't line up too well. It will have to be displayed showing the side view which isn't too bad.




Possibly drilling through the hand and using a single piece of brass with the bamboo nodes added would be a better option. There is a second chance. I like this figure and I learnt a lot painting it so I bought a second figure and would like to try again and hopefully do a better job.
I will touch up the turban and I think I will call these figures done. I want to complete the Flowers before attempting anything else. I get sidetracked too easily
Thanks to everyone for looking in and for the likes and all the helpful comments.
Alan
 
 
 
 
 

My beautiful Lady is not without her traits, but they make her unique.  I've collected a lot of ideas for the next project 
 

OK, over this weekend, I shall have three scales for the new 3-d printed 24 foot cutter in stock. 1:72nd, 1:64th (of course..) and 1:48th. Each will come with a fully detailed 3-d printed hull with nice clinker planking and a sheet of 0.8mm pear for the laser cut fore and aft floor, seats, knees and oars.
 
24′ Cutter (full kit – various scales) – VANGUARD MODELS
 
This is not an enlarged file of the 18 foot cutter, but completely new and based off original plans.