BLACK VIKING

A little side diversion.  From the Post-apocalyptic series by Master Box, Raider Reaper in 1:24 scale. A really simple figure kit to assemble, it’s more about painting figures. I used Vallejo paints. After assembly I sprayed the figure with Tamiya's rattle can Fine Light Grey primer, then after drying I airbrushed it with Vallejo black primer. After that cured overnight, I airbrushed it again with Vallejo white primer, except this time I held the figure so I was spraying straight down with the top of his head pointed straight at the airbrush, leaving a white over black misty finish. (Sorry, no pictures, I was following a YouTube video on the technique). 
 
Results follow:
 
 

Schooner

HM Ships Princess Royal and Tiger at Scapa Flow. V/W Destroyer with Observation Balloon and Drifter full of Libertymen off to sample the delights of Kirkwall 
w/c 16" X 11" 

Battleships

 

One from the other side 
'Scooter'
Douglas A-4B Skyhawk Groupo5 Argentinian Air Force San Carlos Falkland Islands.

Yes thank you,!!! I was going to ask how to do that,  I have figured it out.  The next model I will,read it again, then line off the hull, make four section, then get my grandson  to do the math for me,  How to make 29 planks whittle down to 18 how much to take off , he  will figure it out for me , wait for it, Next ship lol  😆 
   So I made my doors, and of course  I  had to see what they look like what's you think
   Hinges and Handel's tomorrow. 
  Thanks for all the likes and help, scene  this is the only Amati  Mayflower log I better do a good job lol 

Work on modifying the main top continues to somewhat resemble the original as much as possible. I had already opened up the space between the ribs, next I removed half of the top rail and filed down the ribs and reattached it then I used thread to simulate an additional rail on the aft end of the top.
The dead eyes measure out to around 2mm and are stropped with 28g brass wire that is hooked to flattened 24g copper wire to create the chain for the futtock shrouds to hook to and will be fun when the time comes to rig.
 
Michael D.
 

 
 

Good day!! It's-39 c - 40f. Yep another model day brrrrr!!!🥶.
 I did not get finished with  my Mainrail and capping. Life and a hockey game got on the way. But today I will finish it. I pre cut all the 2x2  according to the plan, most went on ok but 25% needed to be re-done to fit as small discrepancy  are showing up A twist here and there nothing serious . 
 I made this little spacer and went to town..I feel  that it going OK starting  to take shape, Once the rails are done I will be starting  to make the doors and ladders,  got a pretty good ideal how I will make them. But I  going to paint them differently from the plan,  All right stay Warm my friend's 
 
  Bob M.
 
 
 

I believe this solution is one proceeded by "Buba, hold my beer, and watch this!"
 

Remember your digital footprint...

Seems it would be a napalm like mix.  The question is... do you ignite it like a flame thrower or after it's sprayed?   The article doesn't say so it may not be lit off at all.   Just asking for scientific purposes....

I stared at the article a minute to be sure I had understood it. If there is a difference between spraying this stuff and using a flamethrower I can't see it.

So make 1 gallon (just enough to kill a few bugs or burn down an house) and spray it indiscriminately, you don’t need to aim it at your victim, the fallout will kill them! I think napalm is more surgical.
 
Gary

Popular Mechanics August 1934. Sounds like a napalm substitute.
 

The Big Reveal!
 
Yes, three weeks to the day and she's finished - another fantastic model from Kartonowa Kolekcja. I can't say enough good things about Pawel's designs -- they very nearly fall together by themselves. Anyways, on to the pictures!
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I noticed as I was posting this next shot that the entry step got knocked askew -- gonna have to fix that.
 

 

 

 

 
Thanks to everyone who has followed along, liked, and commented. I hope you have enjoyed this quick build, and we'll see you on whatever is next!

I made and added, for lack of a better term, "anchor chain rollers" to the pulpit. They are of wood and painted aluminum to match the pulpit. I saw online that most of these boats had these installed, maybe by the owners?
 

 

 
Added the grab rails to the cabin roof:
 

Painted the cabin companion door and added framing. I don't know that my attempt to make the door look like wood grain is all that convincing. . .
 

thanks...was a bit scary, but i'm happy with the results....here's some better shots.....

Day 3
 
Forgot to take pictures on Day 2 🤨

Modern Mechanix, August 1934.  I'm surprised it hasn't become an Olympic sport.

The swivels are placed on the model.

It is easier to drill these holes before applying the rigging. 
But without installing the rigging first I don't know where there will be room left for the swivels. 

Test swivel 1

Swivel guns in place

Thanks for following.
 

good evening everyone
 
thank you for comments and likes
 
like all kits, they are not always suited for conversion, and a lot of artistic licence is required to make it work, its not magic, just a lot of worrying, of what people might think of my pathetic attempt to show a build in progress
i have two sets of gantries in place, but the spacing between them is slightly different as there is not enough space to put everything in, also the superstructure islands are different between the two hulls
however they are are now in place and hopefully staying there, im still thoroughly enjoying this, but so looking forward to getting back into wood
 
some walkway supports are raised a bit, will be sorted
Some of the extra detail, ladders and fixing points


 

Happy Thanksgiving everybody. No matter  if this is a holiday from the USA, no matter where we are from, we all have things to be thankful for. I am thankful for all the fine folks at MSW and this wonderful forum for this super hobby of ours.
 
My daughter dressed Topaz in a turkey suit today. Gobble-gobble.

 
 

There are "ammo" 2 chests (speculative own design) one for the fore castle and one for the rear castle.

Painting the swivels.
First a mat black base with a wash with thinned metal color.

then the swivels are "colored" with pencil and polished with a soft paper tisseu.

result

 

Thanks Jeff! I have the spritsail mast mounted and completed the shrouds, I ended up having to make the deadeyes and they measure out to be under 2mm to give it a somewhat proper scale, the shrouds I used .20mm line and 100wt thread for the ratlines and lanyards, I think overall the scale looks pretty good for this surgical procedure at this scale, also I modified the top by cutting out the lower sections and adding some banding for a little more detail. I still have much more to do in this area but thanks for looking and Happy Thanksgiving.
 
Michael D.

Thanks Mike, I used the hairspray technique several times now and like the effect a lot. Using the flat brush for abrasion was the key this time, helping emphasize the panel borders.
In this case the base coat is AK's Extreme Metal matte aluminum. The hairspray is normal stock and smells horrible, used directly from it's can. It's only one liberal coat, which dries very fast and the slight tendency to pool evaporates soon, in the words meaning .
The second layer is AK's Real Color interior green, an enamel color, I guess.
I have used acrylic colors as well on other projects and never had any issues. There are producers of dedicated chipping fluids around, but I started with hairspray and liked working with it, except for the smell. 

The second color dries onto a transparent film, which is water soluble. The dampening passes through the second layer and reacts with said film of hairspray and loosens it's adherence. After a short soaking period, the top color lifts easily and you have to try out the appropriate tools to chip. Tooth picks, tweezers, brushes of all sizes and states of stiffness, cotton swabs, whatever comes in handy. Try these tools carefully for the desired effect. Areas with a better hairspray coverage, peel easier, so poco a poco, step by step is the way. 
After finishing the chipping, I dry the area with a sheet of kitchen paper and let it thoroughly dry for some more hours. The area then will be sealed with a clear coat, as I don't want to have paint liftings in later stages, while masking or applying of other weathering effects.
 
With the Corsair, this is double important, as I will apply pre shading onto the chipped and sealed areas, followed by hairspray and the top color coat, again from AK's Real colors.
 
I hope that helps
 
Cheers Rob