BLACK VIKING

I’ve made a start on hand painting the figures. Being civilians I wanted to mix up some colours. One I get my base coat down I’ll give it a clear coat before weathering 

Garnet Tackle work. 

Evening all,   work  has started on the  porch,  I  transferred  the paper  to  my  MDF  then using my sharp  knife  I cut them  out, then  after making  the Two  sides and front  and also  the  door  - I glued them together  using  Super Glue  for a  faster stronger bond  -  this  is  where  I am  with it.
 
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So next  off I will  make a couple  of roof trusses  before  I  make some  mock roof tile panels  (probably wont be  individual  tiles)
 
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Forgot to mention: I've also reshaped the counter. As far as I can tell, something like this should work. Although now I should probably fair the aft edge of the H frame a bit more....

 

Hi all,
here I would like to start and share with you my new build of the wooden wonder De Havilland Mosquito 1:48 scale. The kit is the old, but still very nice Tamiya of the FB Mk VI (Fighter-Bomber).

Since long time, I wanted to build a model of this aircraft because of its fame and because of its remarkable design. For me, this is the first Mosquito build as a grown up modeler if I exclude the ancient Revell 1/32 kit that I built when I was a kid. 
 
To start my build, I followed to the letter the Tamiya instructions which called the engine nacelles as a first step:

For added 3-D effects, I just thickened the frames of the nacelles and added few interior details. The white panel shown on the inside walls is an artistic license of mine having used a piece of thin styrene to hide annoying ejection pin marks which I didn't want to fill and sand. In the following, the nacelles are shown completed:

They are test fitted with the wings and with the main undercarriage struts to check that no interferences with the new added parts are present:

I was a bit puzzled by the way the main undercarriage is supposed to be assembled. If I follow the Tamiya steps, I am going to get the large wheels in the way when I will have to finish off and paint the truss structure. Actually, it is desirable to be able to install the wheels only after everything is assembled and painted. To resolve this issue, I removed altogether the molded plastic wheel axles and replaced them with a brass tube 1.6 mm dia. that can slid in and out as shown in the picture.

Once trimmed in length, the new axles could be slid in place to install the wheels at the most convenient moment. Without the wheels in the way, I could assemble and finish the undercarriage structure properly and fit the brake lines made of lead wires. I also drilled lightening holes in the supports of the mud fenders to add a little, but nice detail. Here the completed undercarriages are posed within their locations on the lower wing halves which have been painted interior green.

I read that to improve commonality of parts, the real undercarriages were not handed, but I left them as they are intended in the kit because their modification it would have been a complication for me. Finally, the nacelles were glued in place and the half wings were completed. The undercarriages are now ready to be painted.

Not much, but that's all for now, thanks for having you following,
best regards,
Dan
 

Arggg, Marc... I continue to debate about changing the middle wale sheer! I finally was able to settle on a pleasing curve (to my eye) for the bottom wales. Note the ruler below.. the gap between middle and bottom wales is a very consistent 15mm. The longest bottom wale that I carved is 130mm in length, and it gradually curves upward to 3mm closer to the middle wales at the very aft of the ship - but I cut away those ends as they were hidden by the QG! (so the gap decreased from 15mm to 12mm over 130mm in length).
 

 
I told myself that moving the middle wales was just too much, so I went ahead and got the QG gun ports and decorations ready (the decorations are not glued on and need some finishing)... and told myself "no one will notice or care"... but I do!
 

 
The QG hides the bulk of the wales anyway, BUT... the picture below shows the visual effect of raising the middle wale by 1mm where it intersects the QG... it is a scrap piece so it doesn't have a pleasing curve. What I am leaning towards is to make "new" middle wales that are actually short in length and stop when they hit the leading edge of the QG... and raise them by 1mm where they hit the QG. Having that upward curve in the middle wales I am hoping would fool the eye that the upward sweep continues through the QG and they would seem to parallel the bottom wales.... but I wouldn't have to rework the middle wales that are mostly hidden in the QG. The QG will hide that transition. And then I am not sure that I would do anything with the upper wales. There - I think I have convinced myself to go that route and it won't require major surgery!
 

In the meantime, i continued with the fore castle basis.
 
This time I checked in time whether any problems will arise with the schrouds.

So yes, my cardboard structure was much too wide at the top. Error corrected just in time.

The base starts at an angle of 45° following the (few) remains of the fore castle. And then with a curve upwards. As always too high or too long, shortening later is easier than lengthening.

Applying the second was a little more challenging.

Additional temporary supports were then installed. And i continued with finishing the waist. 

Gluing done on starboard side, now on to port side. Sanding is for later.

Morning all,   so  after doing some  reading  up  on the  interweb,  it  looks  like  I will  be  doing some  landscaping  in the  farmhouse garden,  as it appears  to  gradually  slope  upwards  from a  retaining wall close  to  the  house, I will  need  to  research  how  I am  going to  construct  my wall  and  build  the  gradient  that  my  grass mat  and  sprinkles  will  go  over  to  make  a  kind of kitchen garden  -  grass  and  beds  kind of thing.
 
Here  is  a  view  off the  net  from  about Ten years  ago  and  also  a drawing  from the  1900s.
 
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Cavalry   "Charge........"
 
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I've been working on dressing out the bowsprit, fore stay collar with 5-hole dead eye and misc blocks for the bowlines. I ended up scratch building the sprit topmast, usually I stay true to the medium I'm working with but in this case, I used toothpicks to hold up to the additional stress from the top gallant and royal stay crowsfeet  attached to the shrouds , while still in the rough in stage it's looking pretty good, also the main mast wooldings are completed. Thanks for looking as always.
 
Michael D.
 

Hello,
my finger is so far useable again and so I finished today the bulwark.



 

Dear fellow modellers,
 
We are honoured to join this community and share our joy of creation with you.
First of all, let us introduce ourselves. We are a family company from the Czech Republic engaged in the production and sale of models and accessories, specialising in historical sailing ships.
 
Our main products are accessories for both plastic and wooden ship models. These include: laser-cut wooden decks for plastic models, brass cannons, CNC wooden blocks, photo-etched parts, cloth sails sewn on a CNC machine, double-sided printed cloth flags and much more.
 
We always try to achieve as much authenticity as possible in our products and base them on the most authentic documents, preferably original plans or specialist publications.
 
In addition to individual accessories, we also offer complete sets of accessories, e.g. blocks or photo-etched parts for specific models in a given scale. For blocks, we also provide customized plans for rigging. However, if you do not find a suitable sets or sails in a given scale, we also offer custom production.

Last year we also released our first complete 1:72 scale Statenjacht Utrecht plastic kit, which not only contains plastic parts but many parts such as blocks, sails, and fittings are made of more authentic materials.

In the future we plan to expand our range of products and kits and also create another kit. For example, we have recently expanded our range of wooden walnut blocks to include more types.

You can also take a look at some examples of our products.
PS: The last photo is a Soleil Royal 1:100 model built from a Heller kit by modeler from Vietnam, which we share with his permission and on which he used all our accessories. In the photo you can see mainly flags, sails, blocks, ropes and small part of wooden deck.

16 x 32-Pounder carronades and 2 x 6-Pounder long guns - typical armament for all the 18-gun brigs of this period (1796-1815). Harpy was built for such – and don’t forget, carronades are much lighter than long guns.
 
ETA - Although the larger Dasher and Bermuda Class of flush decked ship sloops, which had a main deck length of 107 foot, 12 foot longer than Harpy, only had (officially) 16 x 24-Pounder carronades..

The struts are on now -- no doors yet. Each strut and wheel consists of fifteen parts. The end of this build is coming slowly into view!
 

Looks very nice. Much 'sleeker' hull than before. What length hull is this roughly? Around 700mm? Thanks

I think I have another 2-3 months on designs and building hull to check everything, maybe longer. Those pics are literally the very first cut of the very first designs, and much needs amending. The end result will be a kit of an 18-gun brig with great history in real life, and with partial lower deck detail, including stove, scale spaced deck beams (all pre-cut in pear, and with the correct curves/camber, as usual) - and always trying to make it as painless to assemble as I can, but keeping the detail.

I remember doing Snake/Cruiser 25 years ago, that was the last time I did an 18-gun brig. To me, the Diligence Class has more pleasing aesthetics, with a sleeker hull and rake - like a much larger Speedy, but with a much bigger bite* - you can see the natural progression from the Childers and Speedy Class to the Dilligence Class almost 2 decades later, followed by the 'less curvy' Cruiser Class.
 
*Childers/Flirt/Speedy had a single broadside weight of 28 pounds, whereas the later 18 gun brigs like Harpy had a single broadside weight of 262 pounds

Hi all sorry for the long delay but life has got in the way.  I've been working on the yards and sails. These have been made from a old shirt that has been cut and distressed by rubbing them with rough sandpaper and then painted with different greens and browns. 
Next job more sails 
Thanks for looking 
Martyn 

The sails are all hung. Now it time to take them off and shape them. Plus I will get a chance to apply all the blocks for rigging  that go on the masts. Some 2 hole blocks go right on the rigging  and some on the mast. I will have to go over the plan carefully  so I don't miss any.  Plus the bitts need to go on as well.
 Have to go pick up the First Mate at the airport, her flight was delayed twice today all ready. So she will be a bit tired and Cranky but she will be home finally. 
 A few pictures of the Mayflower, as she sits tonight.  Strom coming  supposed to be windy for a couple of days lol Hopefully I can get the sails back on in a couple of days , we will see.    The flags are just around the corner, I can see them lol
  


I decided to add the wind today. Iapplied a good coat of GAC 400 to both sides of the sails, rolled them  up and went to the airport while they dried  😀. 




Now it is a matter of putting  on some blocks, running some lines to the sails  and then the flags. But lots to do yet on the old ship but  like they say" after all tomorrow is another day".  And can't wait to wake up tomorrow and go " rigging"   Take care my friends  thanks for looking 
Thinking about the next build  all ready lol. 
 
 
 
 

And a bit  of dry brushing  catching some of the  rocks.
 
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SOLEIL ROYAL 1669 update...
Hull construction work has now finished.
Stern is finished along with all architectural features including the lanterns and some added ones. Boats and cradle are finished as well as the channels and rigging eyepins for the start of the rigging.
I am pretty pleased they way she has turned out, considering I didn't really have a vision of how it would go.
Next up will be working the wood to make the masts and yards so it will stand up to the rigging tension.

Almost finished, just in time for an exhibition by the modelling club I'm in.
 
It's a little rough and ready because it's a prototype, but that's OK. When I come to do the finalised one I'll put the lessons I've leaned doing this one into practice.



 
In the meantime, a bit more paintwork, (adding the vessel's registration number and name) and I really need to re-do those little red gates amidships - a bit *too* rough and ready!
 
And here's the real thing.

Steven

Hi all sorry for the long delay but life has got in the way.  I've been working on the yards and sails. These have been made from a old shirt that has been cut and distressed by rubbing them with rough sandpaper and then painted with different greens and browns. 
Next job more sails 
Thanks for looking 
Martyn 

The spray job with the flat white primer did not go well.
 
You could virtually see almost every seam between the planks in spite of they being undetectable by sight or touch before the paint. Maybe the liquid in the paint caused the grain in the wood to raise up or something.
This is what it looked like after a brief sanding with 320 grit paper.

You can see where the seam showed in the upper center which was not sanded.
 
Next pass I will use the automotive gray primer with embedded filler as I have had some success with this on previous projects. It may take more coats of the flat white to cover but I think that is a price I am will to pay to get the hull closer to smooth.
 
Anyway, back to the drawing board and another layer of diluted filler. In the meantime I will work on the yards.
 
This time I will bore you with the picture.

I think Im calling these  Two done  -   I had a  hick up  I  knocked the  LGs  plume  off  but  I have  found it and  glued  it back in place,  right  so these  are now put a side  ready  for  my  wall  work.
 
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