BLACK VIKING

Ratlines are done
 
I have made guides for each side. It helped me to maintain parallel lines while rigging.
 

 

 

 
 

Well, I think this project is complete, although I will build a permanent display stand and clear case to display Orca eventually. 

I think this could be the first ‘public’ Orca model to be built true to the traditional method for Novi lobster boat construction using frames; ribbands; ribs and planks, with a keel close to the original, and modelling the engine, and other below decks parts; pilot house as well as the lower trunk deck details, and all the film props. If I was to do this again there are still a few mistakes I would correct, as some dimensions and proportions had to be ‘guestimated’.

It’s been an interesting project, and I have learnt a lot, with help from many members, of course. Including the research and plan drawing there are hundreds of hours in the build. If there had to be a pandemic lockdown, it was not a bad way to pass the time.
 
Thanks for the 14K+ views and many thumbs up and comments, and the helpful information and advice - it is appreciated and has significantly improved the final model.

So, here’s some final pictures of the complete boat including one showing the decks removed to reveal the interior. 
 
 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I have an idea for a fun follow-up build, which may appear in 2022. Watch this space.
Until then, I’ve taken the actors back to their barge, filming is wrapped, and I’d better take this old girl back to Amity before she sinks.
Farewell and adieu!
 

 

They do make really fine kits.
 
OC.

The engine compartment is finished and sealed!The little transmission that I had to assemble while easy to build was a PIA to install not much of a locating pin for something hanging.I would advise anyone that does this kit brill/pin the part save some time.The back plate aligns perfectly exhaust wise to the engine and outside can't say enough about the engineering that RFM did!!Some pics ....

Ch. 14 Rudder
 
The rudder has been added. The Spitfire had only a single actuator for its rudder, mounted on the port side. On the starboard side is an actuator for the rudder trim tab. Also, the rudder should have a small navigation light; the kit has locator marks for it printed on the rudder, but provides no part for it. It is also shown on the diagrams, but without any part number.
 

 
Next up will be the horizontal stabilizers and elevators -- parts galore!
 

 
For anyone who is curious, the early marks of Spitfire differed primarily in their power plants, with newer marks of the Merlin providing increased horsepower resulting in greater aircraft performance. The three main variants of the Mk V were in turn based in the differences in their armament. The Mk Va kept the eight .303 Brownings of the earlier marks, the Mk Vb replaced four of the Brownings with a pair of 20 mm cannon whose size and ammunition drums necessitated some changes to the wing, and the Mk Vc introduced what was called the "universal wing", which could carry either combination of weapons. Both the Mk Vb and Mk Vc were produced in tropicalized versions, each characterized by having a prominent chin-mounted duct for the necessary dust filtration system.
 
Cheers!

More cabin progress has been made. Wall paneling is well underway and the LED's for two of the lamps have been installed. I finished designing the floor pattern and have begun building it. Very time consuming, but fun! A different sort of challenge than those normally faced with model ships.
 
I also took some time and milled down a pile of lumber for the outer planking. When I finish the cabin flooring I will switch back to planking to put the finish planks on.
 
To help with all of this, I got a new band saw for Christmas. Been needing one for a long time so when my tool store announced a sale, I quickly hopped in the truck and drove down to get one.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi All,
 
Part 8 is up on YouTube covering the initial assembly, painting and weathering of the cab.  To keep the videos to a reasonable time, although at 50 minutes it is still too long, I will need to cover the cab in 2 or so parts.
 
The first picture shows a partially assembled cab with pedals and assemblies fixed to the firewall, the rear bulkhead, levers and seating all cleaned up ready for prime.
 

 
 
The cab and rear firewall primed ready for paint and chipping.  The wood floor was done by first painting with Tamiya Deck Tan and then treated with artist oils to try and replicate the grain. (The photo has blown out the wood, as much darker to the eye).
 
Where I wanted to apply chipping to the ‘metal work’ I used Ammo by Mig acrylic ‘old rust’
 

 
 
After reading the label on Ammo’s chipping fluid I thought I had better try it on my ‘test cube’ first as the label said “after applying the fluid paint with acrylics” or words to that affect. My top colour coats are lacquer.
 
3 light coats of chipping fluid were applied and once dried which only took as long as flushing it out the airbrush I applied 2 coats of lacquer.
I waited just 5 minutes after spraying the lacquer and scrubbing pretty hard with a toothbrush had no effect on the paint! (lacquers are very tough!)  I had to scratch the top coat with a needle, which then allowed the water to get to the underlying chipping fluid to activate it. Once it started chipping it was okay and pretty controllable.
 

 
 
So with an idea of coats and timings it was on to the cab.
 
The finished result as covered in the video.  The thoughts were to wear and chip the paint where most foot traffic occurred such as the door entries but not under seats and where feet have rubbed and chipped the paint off the metal surfaces and polished in places with constant boot contact.
The ‘metal’ areas such as edges and corners were polished using Ammo’s Polished Metal pigment.  After the video I gave the cab a quick wash with black artist oils and still need to work it a bit.
 
I will at some stage hit it with dust and dirt pigments but need to finish the other parts first.
 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Cheers
Slog

I thought go ahead and create a new thread one things are moving along well on this build two though not make you guys look through an old thread.The Mg-42 bags added,engine and radiators I got to say the engine fit was perfect!!The instructions have you install the upper hose before going into the bay the hose fit the cutout on the r/wall and landed at the rad!!RFM does some Nice engineering their has been a couple of quirks but blame that on me and were easy to overcome.I have already test fitted the lower deck of the gun turret to the deck of the transmission area all looks good to go.I go back to work tomorrow so progress will be slower.I have got to help the son find a truck to move his stuff to New Mexico on Wednesday but do have another holiday coming the week after use it or loose it.

A lovely little model. Apart from the maker's name, I think that there is perhaps an unconscious joke in there. There is a sect who believe in a literal 'translation' of the living to heaven at the Second Coming . They would be hoisted up by a (fictitious) hook-like bone at the base of their spines called 'the bone of Luz'.

Chapman&Willans Newcastle. 'DEMETERTON'
Sunk By gunfire From Scharnhorst 16/03/41 300nm East of Newfoundland
watercolour 16" X11"

I may have posted this before, but the picture above , brought it all back. This was my eye view of what I used to do. I was an Aircraft Handler in the Royal Navy.(1958/1968) The Branch was responsible for Air Traffic Control, Firefighting ( Crash Rescue ashore and at sea) Aircraft movements .My last seagoing post was HMS Victorious as a Flight Deck director. The painting is of HMS Hermes, with a Sea Vixen taxiing and a Gannet 'going round again' The director on the left has just handed the a/c over to the viewer. Exactly as we did it hundreds of times on 'the Vic' (Best Job In The World)

This painting reminds me of another one - a large mural in the Air Museum in Palm Springs, California... Different ships, different planes though, but...
Thanks!   🙂

Thanks as always for sharing your fantastic art. I always look forward to seeing it.
 
Hope Christmas is pleasant for you and finds you and yours in good health.

Greetings fellow modelers.
 
The last item to finish on this diorama is the exterior (through the windows) lighting and the wiring. 

A styrene bracket overhangs the end of the building and LEDs are glued to the underside.
 

 
 
There are four warm white 5050 diodes and a single 0805.  The 0805 fills in the area above the door.
 

 
 
This model is a lot like real estate – it looks OK until you walk around back.
 
The black smeared all over the seams is a PVA and acrylic paint mixture and keeps the light from shining through the cracks.  In fact, I've painted the back side of the thin plastic door with the goo to prevent it from glowing as the bright light makes it almost translucent.
 

 
 
Originally I had intended on using an industrial/commercial scene, but decided instead on an image with colors that would feel more like a sunny day and contrast with the drab interior.  The scene also needed to be a subject that could be wrapped 90 degrees through the corner which would be difficult to do with close up buildings.  The line-of-sight created by the window positioning necessitates this continuous scene because it allows for viewing positions where the side wall and the back wall can be seen at the same time through a single window.  So two separate scenes (one out the rear window and one out the side) can't be used.

 
The trimmed-to-fit image is attached to the side wall and the back gets folded in after the dio module is inserted.  The flare of the lower portion of the photo keeps the viewer from seeing the inside bottom of the shadowbox.  The red wire along with an identical one on the bottom holds the dio in place up tight within the face frame inset.
 

 
 
Two latching push buttons are recessed into the bottom - one for the interior and one for the exterior. This recess gives me the option to set the shadowbox down on a horizontal surface if I chose not to wall hang it. 
 

 
 
The lighting is controlled in 3 main groups with each group having its own PWM (Pulse Width Modulator), so I can adjust their light levels up or down if need be.  The groups are the 5  exterior lights, four pendant lights and two mezzanine lights.  The bench light and pit light are separate with a fixed output.

Here is the final result.  None of the images are focus stacked and the star-like rays coming from the lights are due to the use of a wide angle lens, a very small aperture and long exposure times in attempt to gain the greatest depth of field.  Also, they are not HDR composites although I did open up the shadows in software on some of the images which gives them an HDRish look.
 
 
All lights on.
 

 
 
Interior lights only.

 
 
Exterior only.

 
All

 
Interior only.

 
 
Exterior only.

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Thanks to all for stopping to take a look and for the likes.  And I especially want to thank everyone who left comments.  Your encouragement, suggestions and input made this a better model than it otherwise would have been – and much more enjoyable as well.   Thank you so much.
   
Be safe and stay well.
 
Gary

@max142 I've made some adjustments and printing a new version of it this evening. Once I've dialled in the design and worked out the quirks, I'll share the files.

AO 75 Saugatuck, Fleet oiler during a Kamikaze attack. NOT an actual event, created in my imagination
Watercolour 16" X 11" 

First layer of planking has been largely completed. I now have a shaped hull to begin cleaning up for the second planking layer of a yet to be determined wood species. The kit came with walnut for the hull, and while I will use it for accent colors, I want the field to be a lighter coloring. I’m leaning towards a cherry wood at the moment… we shall see. 
 
The upper works still need to be cut and shaped as right now they are left long and high to be cut to correct shape later. I’m also having some issues with the forecastle elevation. To me, it seems awfully tall so I am looking back through drawings and the Anatomy of a Ship book for Royal Caroline to see what makes sense. 
 
On the interior, I have begun to locate and plan for the cabin builds. Not much beyond some measurements and markings thus far, but it all starts somewhere. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Indeed, rubbing some graphite (soft pencil) over black give iron-work a sort of metallic feeling without looking too metallic.
 
You could also rub some white and/or grey pastel onto the bottom of the hearth to simulate ash from wood/charcoal ...

We’re literally coming down the home-stretch with Dad.  We moved his furniture and belongings, this past weekend, and we will move him this coming weekend - HUZZAH!
 
Naturally, work on the ship is fairly meager, but I did get the deck sheathing and stove painted, and I did manage to make-up and fit the forecastle beam that will be visible at the break of the forecastle deck.  A montage that shows my paint processes, particularly for my natural “oak” finish:
 

 
For some reason, I can’t load the other two pics of the sheathing because of an “unknown server error”.  Anyway, the process is pretty straightforward; flat black spray primer, followed by Citadel silver (allowing some black to peak through), finished with grey enamel wash.  The enamel wash picks up all the nail heads and sheet seams nicely, while giving an oxidized metal finish.  The white stripes are masks for where the stove glues down.
 
The stove begins with Modelmaster Random Tan as my base coat over white enamel primer:
 

 
Although it will never be seen, I chose to represent the brick work that is sandwiched between iron and wood.
 
Next, I slather the whole thing in Windsor and Newton medium grey oil, and allow it to sit for five minutes, or so, before wiping most of it away.  This paint gives the wood a pleasing silver-ish cast, like newly oxidizing oak, and it gets into all the plank seams and grain structure:
 


 
Next, after allowing it to cure for a few days, I do the same thing again with W&N Van Dyke Brown.  This is what restores a sense of woody warmth to the surface, while enhancing texture and depth:
 

 
The plate mounted to the deck:
 

 
The iron blacked-in:
 

 
I decided to rub some powdered graphite over the black, so that the lattice would pop a little.  Again, this will never be seen, but I wanted to play around with powder effects. It is subtle, but effective:
 

 

 
Lastly, the stove on-board:
 

 

 
The stove gives me a central glue connection for that beam, which will lend some rigidity to the whole deck structure.
 
In other news, I have 2 of 3, aft bulwark gussets fitted and installed.  All the prep work on the last bulwark is done, so I will resume painting soon.
 
I hope all are well, as the holiday approaches.  Thank you all for stopping by.  More to follow!

Alan,
 
If the historical interludes are boring please let me know and I will desist. I find this area hugely interesting and can get a bit out of hand.
 
Personally, I find the historical pictures and background stories very interesting indeed. But I can't speak for everyone.
 
Richard

Alan, without the history, what's the point? Although we can sometimes bury ourselves into research, and forget the model, understanding what is being represented is key to representing the model...
 
Keep it going brother... Yep there are a lot more WWII references to the SDF than prewar... especially imagery...
 
Looking great to me....

Looking Splendid Alan.
 
OC.

Slow progress while I have been thinking out the background to the model. 
I airbrushed the sand colour onto the assemblies and loose parts. I am beginning to realise that last year I had started out with limited / poor advice for using the airbrush and the maxim that you should use a fixed dilution for a given paint is not correct. I am starting to work with more dilute mixes and thin coats to allow shadowing from the primer to come through. Thank you to the masters here that have given me the insight. I really like how this is coming out as I attempt it.

I am horrible at hand painting the tyres on a rim so this time I tried masking the rims with blue tack and air brushed the tyres with German Gray. Tyres would be dusty and sun damaged and not a glossy black. I will wash the treads to bring them up a little

They came out better than I could manage by hand.
The lights have been painted with Mig Bright metal and will be filled with window maker.

The main assemblies have been fitted together ready for a gloss coat and washes and detail. The fit looks good. It looked okay at teh time but now the Scarff ring looks out of scale. I will see if a wire version will work

 
Thank you for looking in
Alan
 
 
 

Hi all.   just thought I would take a few moody pics this evening  - saw my torch  and thought  "why not".
 
OC.

Love how those batts  turned out  Kevin   spot on for detail/colour etc.
 
OC.