BLACK VIKING

Evening all,   more progress  today  I put a few more paint layers down  - the  farm side of the  farmhouse is now just about painted just needs a wee bit of weathering and some clear plastic  put  behind to represent the windows.
 
OC.

Hi All
 
I got a bit more done this weekend and have now finished shaping the transom pieces.  I think the advice that Adrian Sorolla gives in his excellent book is spot on with these parts.  He recommends just taking your time and getting them right and I agree with this.  I'm hoping that they are as they should be but I guess I'll find out when I make the fashion pieces which is my next task.  They look particularly tricky but I'll give it my best shot.  A few pictures of the progress below
 
Cheers Mark
 

The base plate ( with the name of ship)
 
Tis plate is made of oak.  Leftovers of course (what else 😉)
The bottom is made from 3 planks glued together. With plastic 4 supports at the bottom.

Determining the shape of the 2 support plates was some fitting and measuring.

The support plates are ready and attached.

The nameplate : Pelican or Golden Hind?
Because the figure head has already been chosen, It will be the Pelican. As she hopefully looked when she sailed out in 1577.
 
The text is first printed in Word (Old English) And glued on plastic sheet.
Drilling and cutting 


Name and year glued on a 2nd plastic sheet

Current status

Thanks for following, comments and likes

Thanks to everyone for the kind comments and likes.
Small update
 
Fuse split replaced by a fuse wedge, as per drawing.
 
Karl
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you Chuck and Glenn, there is a small number of excellent   builds that I have gratefully made full use of as reference works. Having followed your Cheerful build Glenn I can envisage what a great job you will make of the Barge.
 
Post Forty-four
 
 Tholes and oars
 
The thole pins are two part pre-cut tiny pieces where the laser char is fiddly to remove, but something that is necessary if a natural finish is required rather than a painted one.
I haven’t decided on this yet so more attention has to be paid to char removal.

2751
I used the shaft of a partly made oar to set the distance between the pins.
The paint on the capping rail was carefully removed where the tholes sat to provide a better bond for the pva.

2809(2)
A days work to fit the Thole Pins, I may yet paint them Red.
 
The Oars or Sweeps
The square section of the oar (the Loom) has slots each end; a long slot to take the short handle, and a short slot to take the long shank.
 I started rounding the shank by paring the corners to create an octagon and then rounding by turning it between my fingers using sand paper.
Once I was almost there I glued the shank into the loom for final finishing.
 
I was curious to see how the oar scale measurements  compared with those given by Steel for a boat with the same breadth.
Seven feet is the given breadth of the Barge, and for this size a Twenty-foot sweep is given.
 
Chuck has indicated that the shaft is left a little long to give purchase whist rounding. This equates to 6mm excess and once removed results in an overall 19’ length of oar.
 
I decided to leave the shaft length as provided which results in a scale length of 248mm equating to a 19.5’ oar length.
I taped the square end over during the rounding process, which left a good tight fit into the blade, the final finish being applied once blade and shaft are glued together.
 
I rounded the handle to a scale diameter of 1.9mm. which equates to a 1¾” diameter.
The trickiest part is forming the blade which must be tapered and also have a slight curve to it.

2758(2)
To get a consistent taper I made a simple jig from the oar blade fret.

2786
The tapered blade; down to 0.9mm at the outer end.
 
A slight curve is then formed by wetting, followed by the hairdryer treatment to the blade held around a shallow curve.
The inner end still need a little fairing into the shaft.

2782(2)

2804(2)
The final test is how does the oar fit with the boat in its working position.
 
For this I borrow my oarsman from the Pinnace.

2798(2)

2803

2797(3)

2796(2)

2791
 
I will now continue with the time-consuming business of completing the oars.
 
B.E.
04/07/21
 
 
 
 

Evening all,  a wee bit more progress  this evening  -  I started by making and attaching some window ledges, then I had at go at gouging out some of the mortar lines  as the laser cut ones are too neat and uniform, then I applied a few water washes of  a sand/buff colour brushed into the gaps, this will be left to dry then a light sand over.
I have discovered an idea  - I need to brush over the MDF wood a few watered down coats of PVA  to  prime the wood as it will help the paintwork I think.
 
OC.

Today I painted the last details, the shovel and the axe and touched up a few areas that needed attention. Then the weathering!
I used the Steel paint from the Bare Metal Oilbrusher set I used very small amounts where I thought there might be significant wear. and then washed it to thin the effect.
I used the AV Vallejo Rust, Stain and Streaking set for rust. I kept it to limited areas, mostly the corners of the track guards that might have got beaten up in training. I used the darker colours to get a deep, paint chipping effect and surrounded it with the light rust colour which I washed out with a wet brush. I added a light rust wash to the wheel centres and also brushed a small amount over the bare steel effects which produced a result that I like.
I'm not sure if the decal on the hatches was necessary, the information is limited
I think this is finished. I hope you like it.
Thanks for looking and responding
Alan

 

 

 

 
 

Now that was difficult!!!
 
I don't know if these bulkwards are, on every model, so difficult to place. Anyway i've put them into water for an hour and then i've realized that i could handle only one at the time. So if someone reads this do not wet both of them. Do one at a time because if you leave them a lot in water, let them dry and wet them again, the wood will become very weak and will be easy to break.
 
So after one hour inside water i was trying to figure out how could these huge pieces of wood could be placed correctly. It was obvious that, even wet, glue couldn't hold them in place. So i've tried to use the electric plank bender. And that worked well for the first one. I manage to give the shape needed and was trying to press the whole think with both hands in order glue to do its job. I didn't manage to place it correctly. But the worst was still to come.
 

 
Today it was the day for the next one to be placed. It was dry so i ve put it again into water for an hour. Did again the electric planking thing, but i was in hurry to finish it and start planking. Been in a hurry made whole process more difficult.
 
I couldn't make the plank parallel to the deck and i saw the plank to start breaking, so i did hurry uu more. The outcome is below average and that's a lesson I took. Do not hurry. Do one at a time. Take your time. I'll write that 100 times...Ok 1000 times then...
 

 
The final build is here, not happy, many many mistakes that will alter the hull's shape, but life goes on and surely learning comes from mistakes.
 

 
 
 

... And one hour later, with sunset light :
 

 

Hi Mike from another member from Suffolk.  Welcome to MSW

Hi Mike from another member from Suffolk.  Welcome to MSW

....as I said to Lou yesterday.........it's just one of my habits I wish I could break     my love for older kits will be the demise of me yet!    I wracked my brain trying to find decals for this model.........the biggest hurdle is the scale.  the major problem in domesticating an older kit is just that.......early model kits produced,  were in such odd scales,  that it makes it nearly impossible to bash them in this way.   even in the after market dept.,  mods {unless scratch built} are hard to do.   I have some pictures from the 17th on the progress of this model.......painting for the most part.   after painting the underbelly gray, I got the feeling that I had made a mistake.........most of the captured planes had their under bellies painted yellow.  I did find out however,  that a few of them retained the gray........so that put me at ease for the time being.   I rode a little high on the fuselage,  but I think it won't matter too much.

the top and bottom of one wing was done........the wheel well is done in chromate green.

I still need to do the engine paint,  as well as the deicing trim and touch ups.   the pilots were molded to the seats......I would have cut them out, if not the fact that I want to show the plane in flight.  painted in chromate green too.

the stabilizer and rudders were done in the Army green and gray.  the malformation of one of the rudders doesn't show too badly,  now that it's disguised in paint  

 

I also painted the buckets for the turrets......I need to do the glass frames and guns......later to assemble them.   our discussion over the phone yesterday actually uncovered another aspect of the B 24,  that I had not seen previously........there was such a thing as an assembly plane.  this was the lead plane that the others would assemble behind and follow to the mission location.   the paint {camo} on these bombers is very reminiscent to planes of WWI
there were a few that were even more striking !
here is an idea of what one would look under another banner...............

we kinda joked about scale...........I'm sure I'm not alone,  but I believe that from one manufacturer to another,  there are subtle differences in their production of scale.  it may be slight......but it is noticeable.........and once the molds are tooled,  there is no going back.  just for a laugh,  we looked up anyone who made a model in 1:32 scale.  think of it.......the model would be HUGE!  well......we found one...........Hobby Boss!  I found these decals for them.......these are masks to paint the markings on {something I've never done before}.
Captured B-24 Liberators Luftwaffe Insignia Paint Mask Set 1/32
un....%#&# believable!   but wait!...........there's more!

Sides and Gunports:
 
I've finished attaching the side fake planking pieces and cutting the gunports. I spent so much time double and triple checking the height of the top piece to make the cannons hit the center of the gunport and even with all that when I put the cannon in place it's a bit too low. I did my measurements with the gunport cut and the height of the center of the cannon that I measured was right at the center of the gunport but when you set it in place it's a bit different. It's not so much that I won't be able to make some minor adjustments on the cannons and get it correct but it's weird to have the measurement and actual cannon not exactly line up. I think it's due to the angle of the cannon so every bit of the barrel is lower than the tip and when it sticks through then the lower part is what you see at the port. Lesson learned I hope.
 
After getting all the side pieces on I needed to cut all the gunports, the only real challenging part was with the ones that had the covering for the inside decks that was visible. Cutting the port without damaging the inner planking was tricky, I covered the inside planking with 4 layers of painters tape to try and keep splintering to a minimum and cut slowly and carefully on those and for the most part was successful but a couple spots still splintered and I'll need to do some minor repairs to that planking.
 
I decided early on that I wasn't going to paint the hull so instead of the painted black strip below the bottom row of gunports I stained the walnut planking dark to simulate that. I also stained the strips between the side pieces the same dark walnut stain so it's has three rows of the dark wood. I'll be staining the lower planks a lighter color. I still have  the wales to put in place on the dark strips and I'll probably stain that the same color.
 
It's starting to come together and I'll finish the hull planking next so I can get the ship on the cradle for stability and then work on the upper areas.
 
 

Welcome aboard all!
 
I do plan on carving the decorations again. With the larger scale I am hopeful that I can get better results. I also plan on using a mixture of mediums to carve from. I have been getting nice results from polystyrene on Royal Louis as it is more forgiving than wood. I will likely use wood though for the large carvings such as the figure head as the larger surface is easier to handle and work with. I am thinking about giving modeling clay a try on this one as well. After seeing Doris' masterpieces and watching her videos of how she made many of her decorations, I feel that may be a good route to try. I was always better at carving in clay than wood and am always in favor of using the materials that work best for the modeler.
 
I have a ways to go and time to think on that however. I'm working steadily through the frame modifications and will begin fairing the hull next. This is what I call the "dirty work" of ship building as it flings saw dust everywhere, but once it is done and the hull is ready for planking, I intend to go back to Royal Louis for a while to continue working on her. She is about ready for another series of decorations to be carved and added on the bow and deck railings.

Chapter 7 laser cut parts are now available.  Please remember that if you are far from needing these parts, please refrain from buying them.  I will always have more made when these are gone.  Your fellow Winnie group builders that are up to this chapter in the process will thank you.  They have been eagerly awaiting its release.  As soon as I return which is on Wednesday,  I will start making the cherry version of chapter 7.  
 
Currently having fun somewhere in Virginia......either on a mountain or under it.....next stop Alexandria.
 

 
Chuck

The keel had a slight bow in it - hence the balsa blocks between the bulkheads to straighten it up. Thanks to other Supply builders logs for this idea.
 
The first planking was a real problem. The limewood broke at the slightest bend so I went online and bought a planking tool but couldn't get on with it and threw it into the bottom of the toolbox. Applying a hot iron was little better. I found a piece of plastic plumbing pipe a bit longer than the planks, stopped up one end and stood it up in a bucket of pebbles, poured in near boiling water and capped it with a mineral water cap. After a few minutes in the hot water the planks bent much easier provided I bent them slowly didn't try to rush it. The only problem I found with this was that the planks shrunk a bit when they dried out.
 
Richard
 

Post Forty-0ne
 
Acanthus whittling
 
I have previously had a dabble at this which ended in a broken strip, and I put the process into abeyance whilst I got on with other stuff.
Round two
Having carefully attached the blanks to backing boards this time using a Pritt stick I hope for better results.

2545(2)
I start by marking the stop cut lines and attend to these first.
Micro chisels are used, and the direction of the grain is carefully noted.

2546(2)
It is then a case of carefully paring a round onto the detail using a scalpel, fine sandpaper, and the edge of the chisel where required.

2542(2)
I keep a copy of the Chuck’s examples in front of me as a reference.

2549(2)
To ensure uniformity I prepared all three each side before I attempt to remove them from the backing.

2553

2552(2)

2551
Nearly ready for release, a little more smoothing and polishing.

Portside decoration
The same procedure for the Port side, but to ease interpretation of the carving lines I flipped the photo of the finished work provided by Chuck.

2611
As I write this post the first of the Acanthus carvings has been immersed in Isopropanol for some thirty hours and is still stubbornly hanging on in part to its backing.
 
At this rate with another five to go I think I’ll probably lose the will to live!
 
B.E.
 
26/06/21
 

Post Forty
 
The Royal Watermen
Back from a break in Dorset and not yet ready to tackle the hull carving I decided to play around with a Waterman model.
 
The doner piece is a 1:24 scale figure of an American Vietnam era soldier by Dean’s Marine.
0920
I used the same (modified) figure to represent a rower for my 1:24 scale Pinnace build.
This time the dress would be different and I wanted to model the figure holding the oars in the vertical position.

2472
Early stage modification; the first action is to remove unwanted clothing and turn trousers into knee breeches.
The figure is made of hard plastic and the Dremel was necessary to achieve this.

2479
The arms with this model are separate so it was not too problematic to position them correctly.
It is then down to using modelling paste to create the uniform of the Royal Company of Watermen.
 
A little research revealed that The Company of Watermen dates back to the 16thc and details of the uniform are available.
It is from the ranks of this company that the Royal Watermen were chosen.

A skirted scarlet tunic, coupled with breeches, and a navy/black cap.
 
A prototype Royal Waterman is completed.

2533(2)
 

2521
I have reduced the Queen Ann monogram from the Barge kit to provide the plastrum on the back of the tunic.
 

2528
With the proper oars the arm/hand positions may need to be adjusted.
 

2526
I’m far from satisfied with the result but it does give me an idea of what is involved.

2519
Despite the antiquity of the uniform style, I’m not sure it looks right on the model, but at least he sits ok on the thwart.
 
Time to stop messing about with this and get back to completing the model.
 
B.E.
21/06/2021
 
 
 
 

WOW, this is turning out beautifully. The carvings are exceptional

From build booket to references on large folding sheets.
 

Well, that's given me a lesson in German - I'd been thinking gestalt meant "the whole" of something (like holistic).
 
But of course, "whole" is ganze, isn't it? (as in the famous Richard Tauber song "Dein ist mein ganzen Herz" (Yours is my whole heart) or the even more famous "Diesem Kuss der ganzen Welt" (This kiss to the whole world) from Beethoven's 9th Symphony.
 
Druxey, this way of doing the robands is much easier and quicker than doing it properly, and I have the excuse that I did it that way before. Here you can see it from the back. The "joining thread isn't really all that obvious unless you look at it close up.
 

 
 

 
Steven

Excellent work on the press.    It looks like the real beast.

Thanks to all for stopping by and for the "likes".
 
 
 
Seems a bit scary to me also Mark.  Check this photo out.  This seems like a false sense of security to me.  The rear wheel doesn't even appear to be chocked to keep it from rolling backwards (or forwards.)  I wouldn't want to be under that thing if the chainfall let go and the weight shifted.  I wonder if this little house of cards arrangement has ever been tested?     
 

 
 
It works pretty well.  The most difficult part is keeping the drill straight and true when going through the rails. Thanks for the comment O.C.
 
 
I believe you're right Keith.  That's a great understanding of the times and one that I never stopped to consider.  All the years I worked in manufacturing the company always supplied uniforms and laundry service.  So yes, what would you do with oil soaked clothes on a modest salary?  Leave them hung over the fence at night? 
 
 
Yes those jacks would add some nice atmosphere and I particularly like the high lift bumper jack.  I don't know of anyone who casts or molds anything like them at this scale, so I'm going to try and scratch some.  Emphasis on try as the high lift would be right at 1/2" tall.  Thanks for the suggestion and photos Egilman.
 
 
Everyone would run for cover when OSHA would step out onto our manufacturing floor.  But when you see the dangerous work places of the "good old days", OSHA starts looking pretty good.  Thanks for the comment and nice words Ken.
 
 
Hello Allen, thanks for looking in.  I agree, especially the oil can as it would be easily identifiable - but crazy small.  I may just give it a try.
 
 
Some Pit Work

Everyday life choirs and activities has kept me from the workbench and little has gotten done.  So this update will be a short one.
 
I added back some electrical piping along the back wall that was pulled off to accommodate the pit installation.  Instead of running the conduit to the right as it was originally, it now runs to the left and up the corner and covers a nasty little gap where the two walls meet.
 
I then replaced some of the “angle iron” around the perimeter of the pit because it was out of square.  Looking at the photo below I can see the angle needs some attention as it doesn't look like iron (too silvery.)
  
Steps are added leading down into the pit.  They are 2' wide with a 8” rise and 10” run (like you really wanted to know that) and are made of stacked basswood pieces.  The hand rail is .022” brass which scales to just under 2” diameter.
 
The pit and steps were dirtied up with some blackish pigment powders and a wash of India ink mixed with water.  The wash brought forward the texture of the pit walls (which I now realize I failed to mention in the last post.)  The texture is straight white PVA dabbed on with a cosmetic sponge.  At first the glue keeps leveling itself out, but as it dries it starts to hold peaks.
 

 
 
I also added some oil stains to the lower center pit and a step down to it.
 


Arbor Press  
 
A break from working on the pit.
 
In the last post I showed a photo of four men in greasy coveralls.  Below is a crop of that photo and just behind the gentleman in the center is a mechanical arbor press.  It appears to be a 20 ton Weaver Hi-Speed Press or one very similar.
 

 
 
The Weaver 28 and 60 ton models have an extra leverage arm high up that the press shown above does not.
 

 
 
These presses had three levels of power vs speed.  The hand wheel could be turned for gentle precise work with little power.  The upper lever was a rack/pinion sort of affair that offered more speed and considerable power.  If that wasn't enough you could choose the nuclear option by using the lever on the left which provides the greatest force.  The photo below is a 20 ton press so it doesn't have the upper lever, but it's a good look at its simplicity and how it works.  Note that the arm (with the Weaver branding) has a choice of pivot points at its left end – three of them, where you can select how much leverage is required.  There are three holes in the pivot plate and the arm is currently occupying the center hole so the the other two holes are not visible.     
 

 
 
I made one of these Weaver presses for the dio, but much of the mechanical detail is not there - just too small.  Anyway, I began with a drawing based on photo scaling.

 
I gathered up some stuff.  The wheel is an injection molded HO scale boxcar brake wheel.  I pulled the styrene rod and tubing over heat to get the right diameters needed.  The brown sprue is nut/bolt heads.
     

 
 
Cut, glue and drill.
 

 
 
Enamel paint and powders.
 

 
The left side power mechanism is just two pieces of bent wire inserted into a styrene bit.  The angle iron that bolts to the floor is out of scale for sure but. . .
 
 
Now back to the pit.  Thanks for looking.
 
Gary
  
   

Sorry for the delay in updates. I was working on getting the sails installed and rigged but then had to take break when the weather got really hot here for a few days, then my son got married weekend before last and we had guests staying with us last week. Now I am back at it with the lower sails and fore topsail all rigged and the main topsail in progress.