JesseLee

It's looking really good Jesse!

Wow, that deck is looking good! I might copy your rudder coat if you don't mind.
 
Jesse

Thanks John, Joe and Thomas.
 
Joseph, have a safe trip and a happy Thanksgiving, Merry Christmas and a happy New Years. See you next year.
 
Thomas, As for all the extra details I need to give credit to all the people like yourself and Dirk who have taken the time to post your builds where I can learn the more intricate aspects of ship building.
 
and thanks for all the likes. 

man this gives me high hopes for my models some day, 

Here are my finished chainplates, triangular deadeyes, and shrouds.
 
The real ship picture shows a shot from one of the two (very different from each other) full scale replicas of the Golden Hind.  This is  what I decided to model my chainplates from.  You can see that it is just an iron strap with one bolt head securing it to the hull. 
 
The first picture shows the flat brass bar from Detail Associates and Amati fine nails that I used.  For the chainplates on the smaller deadeyes on the rear, I had to file down the diameter of the heads of the nails somewhat, so they wouldn't be wider than the smaller brass bar used there.  For attaching the chainplate straps to the channels, I originally planned to solder them to the soldered ends of the brass wire deadeye wraps that protruded through the holes in the channels, but I used CA instead.  I had to do some filing on the wire ends to get them the right angles to the chainplate straps.
 
The second picture shows shows an example of the deadeyes and chainplate assembly that came with the kit, in contrast to what I did for my model.  As you can see, the kit parts look very oversize and bulky, plus the single strap I used is more appropriate for the time period of the Golden Hind.
 
In  my last post, I showed the predrilled holes I made for the chainplate nails, by using the line to find the correct angles.  Even so, I had a adjust a few of the holes, to keep the chainplate straps aligned with the shrouds, when looking at them straight on. Also, since each chainplate was at a different angle and length, I had to fit each one individually.
 
--Randy

Different angles of the finished build......
 

Different angles of the finished build......
 

Wow, that deck is looking good! I might copy your rudder coat if you don't mind.
 
Jesse

Wow, that deck is looking good! I might copy your rudder coat if you don't mind.
 
Jesse

Wow, that deck is looking good! I might copy your rudder coat if you don't mind.
 
Jesse

Speaking of Cub Scouts, and Pine Wood Durby racing.... Went through that with my son, and then two grandsons. Learned after the first year, the kids are only competitive if the dad becomes heavily involved. Much more so than simply "coaching". That was the last year my boy's Pine Wood Durby racer did not win "Best in Show" and fastest.
Fond memories for sure.
 
Anyone interested, I will gladly share my secret to "fastest". You can PM me on that subject.

Years ago when I was a scout.  Younger and lighter and full of energy I used to build those pinewood derby kits to race.  Trust me the scouts turned those blocks into fantastic looking cars with the shaping and paint.  For someone who does not mind, that kit would make a good base for something eye catching.
And you accomplished that.  It might have started out as a pig's ear but was turned into a silk purse.
David B

As a reminder, (found it online) here is the little $14.99 kit I started with....

 
Like I said earlier, it was given to me as a joke, and, as you can see, it's about as sophisticated as a cub scout pine wood derby racer kit.

Prior to installing the rudder pendants I decided to add a rudder coat around the rudder post.  Using an old handkerchief I soaked it in straight liquid starch and let it dry thoroughly.   Next I cut out a small piece and used a felt tip marker to color it black.  The piece was then glued around the rudder and stern post using white glue.  Next I cut a small U shaped brass plate to place over the coat’s upper edge.  The plate was blackened and holes drilled into it for 0.7mm rivets.  I need to say that this was the first metal piece I cut that was half way descend and came out looking like what it was suppose to.  I’m learning how to use a jeweler’s saw and it’s amazing what you can do if you first read and learn how to correctly use the tool. http://www.fdjtool.com/custom.aspx?id=117.  I also should have installed this before doing the deck fixtures, turning the ship upside down to put the rivets in was bit of a challenge.
 
For the rudder pendants I sort of took a different path than the manual.  I decided not to place the chain as shown in the manual for a couple reasons.  First, damage control!   I was a little nervous about having the chain hang down so much because all I could see is it getting caught on something and ripping the rudder off.  Second I just thought I’d take some artistic license by draping the chain under the counter.  Hooks were added to the ends of the rigging line that attach to the chain.  A simulated mousing was put on each hook.  The rigging line will be tied off to the cleat on the inboard transom.
 

 


 
Next, rigging line was thread through the eyelets on the outboard side of the hammock cranes and the two ends were seized to the eye bolts placed in the cap rail and boarding panel.  This was a good place to use some zip-seizing and it made tensioning the line very easy.  For the inboard crane rail I used some dimensional lumber from Midwest Products.   I used the 0.0208” x 0.0416” size and decided to stain it instead of painting it black.
 

 
For the hammock crane netting I was toying with a couple arrangements.  My first thought was to use something similar to the current netting layout that’s on the Constitution.  Pictures of the Constitution show separate netting pieces attached to the inboard and outboard crane arms.
 

 
However after making up the separate netting pieces I thought I would do something a little more historically correct like Chuck did so I made up netting pieces to drape in between the crane arms. I don't really know why I made these pieces I just thought it would be easier to tie them in place.  The netting pieces were then draped and tied into place as explained in the manual.  I also decided not to tie the netting to the lower eyebolts that were on the boarding panel.  I didn't think it was necessary and removed the eyebolts.
 


 
On to the long boat.
 

This will be an awesome gift Dave!

Thanks everybody for your very kind comments and for all the like votes.
 
Forget about the rigging of the guns under the poop deck Remco, it's not visible anyhow through the gun ports.  The guns just behind the main mast have been rigged before the upper deck was planked and is visible.
 
Thanks Hans for the input, that's what I figured too.  I'll be experimenting with the mix and show the results on a pice of scrap wood, have plenty of that 
 
The rigging of the tackle went rather easy Patrick.  Now I have to make the coiled ropes and lay them down on the deck.  
 
 
Today, being Sunday here in Palm Coast, Florida, I could spend some quality time in the shipyard.  It was rainy and rather chilly outside so - - - no yard work - yippee!
 
I managed to install only the "pull back" gun tackle on the starboard side, four guns.  I ran into the expected problem with the gun tackle to the bulwark though.  The distance from the bulwark to the eye bolt on the gun carriage is way too short.  I have to device some other arrangement that'll look believable yet not the way it was actually done.  
The plan is to install the eye bolts to the aft end of the carriages, that way I have enough space for the tackle.
 
At last week's gathering of the Colored Pencil Society Chapter I met the husband of one of the artists there who is a wood carver.  We got chatting about carving my ship carvings and he asked if I had drawings of the carvings needed for the VOC ship and invited me to their weekly club meeting here in town.  I did go last Tuesday and met a whole bunch of very nice and talented carvers.  I picked up a lot of good pointers regarding tools and wood.  Really very productive.
Now I need to find some of those dentist burs MarkT found on eBay.  
 
All y'all have a great week and keep out of trouble, especially George 
 
Cheers, 

WOW! I'm blown away with all the wonderful comments.....even from mates I have not had the pleasure of previous exchanges. To those of you who have followed this special build from the beginning (seems like yesterday), I cannot thank you enough. So many to name, but especially George, Jesse, Piet, Augie, Mark, Frank, Ken, Rusty, Nigel, Patrick, Jack, David, John, Toni, Druxey, Brian, CaptSteve, Pete, Yves,....I know I must be leaving some out.....apologies to those.
Just know I love you all, and thoroughly enjoy your excellent modeling skills, and try to learn from each and every one of you every day.
God bless the Model Ship World community.
 
All the pressure now relieved, I had fun in the shop today, picking up on the little decoy ship. It seems so tiny, after working on the larger ship for the last month.
All I can say is, I promise it will be cute as a puppy when I finish with it.
 
Just think, I will be jumping from that little thing back to the SOS!

Beautiful job Dave and a nice touch with the little flags!  You better put a pillow on the floor in front of the doc so his jaw will land on something soft 
 
We are looking forward to seeing the presentation pics.
 
Cheers,

This will be an awesome gift Dave!

Never thought I'd say a Tarheel banner looked good! The Doc is going to love this!
 
Jesse

This will be an awesome gift Dave!

This will be an awesome gift Dave!

This will be an awesome gift Dave!

This will be an awesome gift Dave!

This will be an awesome gift Dave!