vaddoc

Dear friends
 
Sadly, I have not been able to post for three months - life with its ups and downs got in the way. But I kept on working in the shipyard.
 
Now, this is my first POB model so I am figuring things out as I go. I made a simple jig to hold the keel straight and secure and some plywood right angle pieces. I did a lot of work trying to figure out a way to make sure the frames are square to the keel and installing pieces of wood to provide reinforcements and to connect all frames together.


 
The keel was decidedly bent, it is the first time my epoxy laminates fail to produce a dead straight sheet. Brute force and a heat gun improved the situation a lot.
 
Now at this time, I had to stop and deal with my benches, tools and garage. I was running out of space, too many tools squashed close together in a very full garage. Also, the Axminster disc sander I was so excited about proved garbage, not pleased with their customer support either. 
 
So, I made a new bench with the table saw built in. This took a lot of work (I do not have a mitre saw) and a lot of headscratcing too figure out how it would work but I am very pleased with the outcome. It is a very heavy solid bench.



Then I took everything out of the garage, threw away lots of things, moved some light fittings,  made a kind of loft and put everything back in. Huge amount of work but I am pleased with the outcome.

Drilling and cutting bench and main work bench


Sanding station. Yes, I had to buy the Proxon disc sander which is very nice I must say. The Axminster one is only good to rough sand the timber to make the bench.

This fridge-freezer is taking up space but is also a nice place to put the air filtration system. Can be used for beer as well.

Ok, so back to the boat.
 
All frames were carefully installed and secured with thickened epoxy and bits of wood - very solid. The photo shows the hull and a crude base I made to support the hull during planking.

This is when I discovered the keel was very bent. The way I designed the boat, the plywood deck had to go in first. This was the first true test of alignment that failed miserably. The deck, printed in an A3 sheet is true and straight and both ends of the hull were pretty off center line - a lot.
 
So, I cut many of the connecting wood pieces, put longer ones in, lots of thickened epoxy and now I have a straight keel - at last! The deck has been installed with screws - this will be replaced with wooden nails but I will also epoxy it in place.
 
In the next photos note the cut pieces and the longer ones glued on top.



It does not look pretty but it is solid

Ok, so now it is time for planking. I must admit, I do like spilling planks!
 
Now, I intended to use plywood for the planking but this is not going to work, plywood is very unpleasant to work with and does not cut cleanly (it can but needs specialised blades)
I do not really want to but new timber, so I looked at what 1.5 mm sheets I have. Left to right is maple. mahogany and pear.

Now they are all great but the mahogany is simply too beautiful to use for a hull that will be painted. I think I ll use the maple to start with and if I run out of wood, use the pear.
 
So now it is time to line up the hull for planking! There are some areas that need some consideration, the sheer plank, the top of the stern etc but more on this later.
 
For now, It looked easier to just divide the hull in two sections.
 
I first installed a very wide strip so it would sit dead straight at roughly the turn of the bilge and arranged it so that it would start at the middle of the bow and end aft at the point where the stern rabbet starts turning to horizontal



So at this level, a plank would be dead straight. All planks bellow will curve one way, all planks above will curve the other way.
I will plank the stern separately from the rest of the hull.
 
Of course I had to reposition this line, then divided all frames (except for the 3 aft and 3 fore ones)  bellow this level in 6 sections, put some battens (pear 2x3 mm) and drew the plank runs. Then of course  I had to erase all marks, restart and produce slightly better lines. And then do it again.
 
End result with all frames marked:


Ideally I think a stealer would be needed aft but I am not going to be too pedantic. So lets make one of the garboards.
 
1 mm card used to make the patterns in sections - fitted and glued together.

A very long garboard, and strangely very straight - I expected more curve

I hope this is an accurate pattern. Now, ordinarily I would make this a single long plank but to minimise wood wastage, I am tempted to make it into three sections scarfed together. I also need to think what I will use to cut the planks - scroll saw and sanders or a sharp knife. we will see.
 
On a final note, I was surprised to see that the printed patterns do not seem to fit as well together. I am not sure why but I cannot remember well the CAD designs as I last worked on them in January - I am sure it will work out though.
 
I am also not too happy with my frame alignment - lots of fairing is needed but I may do it as I go along.
 
Till next time
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
As I am currently immersed in planking, I thought it might be useful to share my way of spilling planks.
In my fishing boat log I have presented in detail the way the plank run can be defined but it is a long and difficult read. Showing how to spill planks is much easier and perhaps will help some builders. 
 
So lets spill a plank in the fishing boat. T he positions of all planks have been marked on the port side and these positions will need to be transferred over to the starboard side as we go along. The planks should be twins but in reality they never are, at least in my boats so every plank needs to be individually spilled. 
 
A good compass is needed, this is the one I use
 

The plank we will be making will be a starboard plank, its sister plank on the port side is already installed. A picture is a thousand words: This is the port plank steamed in place and the markings for all the rest of the planks are visible. We need to make this plank for the other side.

Now, every new plank will have two edges. The bottom one that meets the previous plank, and this needs to be shaped so it fits well, and the upper free edge that we will define ourselves based on our markings and planning of the planks but needs to be as fair as possible.
 
I use either very stiff card or thick cardboard to make templates of the bottom edge. I cut pieces as long as possible, hold them close to the edge of the previous plank and use a compass to mark the pattern. I run the compass along the piece of cardboard with the needle on the edge of the previous plank and the pencil tip on the card. Then I cut on the line with a very sharp knife and repeat on the next segment. I glue and connect the pieces into a long continuous card pattern. This is how it should look.

This is 1:10 scale and this plank is 60 cm long. The card needs to lie comfortably without absolutely any edge bend. Even a tiny strain on the card will produce huge gaps on the other end of the plank and wood will not tolerate edge bending (It will, but only a little). This is the most crucial step, if there is any doubt the template must be readjusted. This particular template was the third one. Do not make the card pieces too wide because the angles will change and you ll be getting constantly erratic results.
 
Then, mark the positions of the frames on the card pattern.

Then, very carefully, making sure there is no edge bend at all, secure the card pattern on the wood sheet.

Run a pencil (I use 0.3 mm mechanical one) along the edge and also mark the positions of the frames. This is the result

This is the bottom edge of our plank and should fit closely to the previous plank. We need now to define the upper edge so we need the thickness of the plank at the various frames. On the port side, this thicknesses are already marked. To make sure that the two sides are as similar as possible, I ve been marking the starboard side measuring from the sheer. 




So the upper edge of our plank is marked in all frames.

Now, these widths need to be transferred to the plank, again using the compass. The width at the stem will be defined using the contralateral plank end.



All sites marked.


These points need to be connected but with a fair line. To do this we must use a baten, arranging it so that it is close to all the points.



Now this line, which is the upper edge of the plank, does not pass through all the points but it is ok. Actually, if we put the contralateral plank on the pattern, the widths are exactly the same! 

On this boat I use a very sharp knife to cut the plank with multiple passes, breaking off a segment of the blade every couple of passes. After careful cutting to the lines, the plank is produced.


Placing the plank on the boat, it does not fit well.


No need to panic, it just needs a bit of micro adjustement. We need to find the high spots and carefully sand them so the gaps will start closing. These are the high spots in this case.


After sanding and with a bit of edge bending, the plank seems to fit fine now.


These micro-adjustements and a bit of edge bevelling can continue until the fit is very close but for this boat this is enough, with some filler it will be fine. I also lightly sand the upper edge to smooth out the peaks and make fitting the next plank easier.
 
Both planks steamed in place.

And that's it! Now repeat the process 30 odd times and planking is done. 
 
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
I thought it is a good time for a short post, mainly one of frustration.
Hercules true to the name is fighting me every step of the way and so far, is winning.
 
I ve had difficulties with lofting, difficulties printing the patterns, difficulties gluing them. My laminates that usually come dead straight are bent. My computer died and now, my disk sander started playing up and is in for repair under warranty.
 
But there is more. The new paper template came out in wrinkles. I suspect the spray glue I ve been using has gone bad as all the paper templates I ve glued so far are also coming off very easily. Strangely, the main pattern it is also off by a millimetre or so. The keel does not fully match the pattern - I really cannot figure out why.

But there has been some progress despite the difficulties. After a lot of sanding and lots of scraping to remove the paper patterns and the glue residue, the frames are dry fitted.


I started gluing the filler pieces, at this stage I will also cut the rabet.


I do need to tidy up a bit but it is far too cold.
 
Lots of things to do: cut the rabet, align the frames, epoxy them in place, glue the strengthening pieces and very importantly the planking. I thought I would get away with it by using flat sheets of plywood but I am not so sure now. I think it will need to be a proper planking job.
I am not entirely sure how things will work out in the end but it is a fun project!
 
Best wishes
Vaddoc

I did a bit more work on the boat, so time for an update.
 
@Mark Pearse Indeed Mark, I wanted to build something much larger and more of a proper ship. I actually looked into building Ed's Young America POF, but this would be an extremely expensive project which at this time cannot be considered. I bumped onto Hercules and immediately liked the boat - rest is history! (in the making) 
 
So, I cut the space for the propeller and removed some of the paper template so that the frames can slide into place - they do not actually, all the frame slots need filling as they are not wide enough.
 
I also cut all the filler pieces for both sides and sanded all their bevels. These are needed to give support to the garboard planks as I will not be filling the gaps between the frames with wood. This went remarkably well, although some of the bevels had complex shapes. I only had to redo 3 out of the 30 pieces.

This is a piece that had to be redone, the disk sander is not forgiving.

I also sanded all the bevels in the frames. It went well but some fairing will be needed for the frames at the middle of the hull. These are all the pieces that need to be glued. This will need a lot of work: the paper template will need to be removed and the surface sanded or scraped to remove the glue residue and the pieces temporarily screwed in to check that the frames can slide between them.  I think I ll use epoxy, it is a messy glue but has great gap filling properties.

The elegant curves of the hull and frames, or alternatively Hercules after a dose of Delayed Mouse Making Potion.


I am assuming that my CAD plans are accurate and that I ve cut the wood accurately. Of course neither is certain. The bevels seem reasonable though.


I will need to cut the rabbet before I install the frames. I will first though glue on the filler pieces, as the angle of their bevel will help cutting the hull bevel. In theory, I have all I need to cut the rabbet accurately as all lines and the interaction of the planking with the hull are marked on the templates. However, chiseling plywood is difficult and requires extra sharp chisels. 

Take care all
 
Vaddoc

This is a very nice 1:1 model Bedford! I like the exaggerated sheer at the bow - it should handle rough seas (and lakes) well! 
 
Now, you are very right. This is the way to do it. The problem is that it is very difficult to escape the urge to closely follow the CAD plans with their scary accuracy - I have the illusion the end result will be as sharp as the plans! I ve been watching the Tally Ho videos - incredible what these guys do without using CAD, just with battens and pencils!
 
The hull is very long and not dead straight. The frames will be pre-beveled before installation and even small deviations from vertical will cause problems - I know, they can be sanded or shimed. In the end it will end up with a batten around the hull but I assume the more fussy (or pedantic) I am with accuracy and alignment of the hull and frames, the less intervention will be needed later. This is my first POB boat and plywood responds very differently to solid wood.
 
Having said that, it might very well not work - in all my previous boats in the end I ended up eyeballing the fairness of the hull!
 
Vaddoc

Happy New Year to all!
 
I ve been busy these last few weeks so time for an update. Quite a few things going on.
I could have actually done more but the temperatures have been consistently subzero so my garage is a rather unhospitable place to be in.
 
So, I have finished laminating the pieces of ply I need but things took a funny turn. The laminated ply that was dead straight, warped. This is the first time this has happened to me. Still, with manual bending the opposite side and heat from a hair dryer, it went back to being almost straight. 
 
Now, I need a new bench for the garage. I already have two but my power tools are very cramped and it is difficult to work. For the new bench to fit I had to radically reorganize the layout of the garage - I am halfway into this.
 
The new bench will have the table saw built in to sit flush with the top. I tried to design it by hand but finally returned to the warm embrace of CAD!

These are the various groups of timber bits

A big advantage of CAD is that it is very easy to arrange how many lengths of timber are needed and which pieces will be cut from each one

When the weather allows, I ll get down on this. Now, back to the boat.
 
I glued the template on a flat surface and after lots of thought a sprayed it with a protective spray. Ya, right. That did not work.

I printed the pattern again and glued it on a different surface. I used custom settings and long lengths of paper cut from an A2 roll. However, the printer could not align the paper properly and the printout was distorted



So I printed the pattern in A3 sheets and aligned them carefully. This actually worked fine, I used a piece of string and all lines are straight.

I also did a lot of work to finalise the frames and other parts of the ship. We ll get to these later in the log.

I glued and roughly cut the templates for the frames. There are many dots and lines for alignment purposes. I ll sand them to the lines with the disc sander when the weather improves a bit so I can have the garage door open for the dust to vent away - however sanding of all the bevels will take a long time.

I finished cutting the keel template which again has many points and lines to allow alignment - each has been drilled through in the drill press with 0.55 mm drill to allow a 0.5 mm pin to go through. The mirror template has been glued on the other side - quite successfully.



I have also prepared some extra pieces to glue on the keel to allow some more area to support the planking. These will also help in the alignment and support of the frames. All the bevels are already marked.


I have ordered some different blades as I am not satisfied with the performance of the Proxxon scroll saw - but then again it comes with a very fine blade which struggles to cut the 6.5 mm epoxy laminated ply.
 
So next steps: To cut, sand their bevels and glue the extra pieces on the hull. To sand the frames including the bevels. I think I will cut the hull rabbet now before even the frames go on - I have marked all the rabbet and bearding lines.
 
One thing I could have done differently is the thickness of the hull. In my plans the hull is 3.8 mm thick - I did not want to make it thicker as in the plans, Hercules' steel hull is very slim. However, in the bow and stern, the rabbet will need to be up to 1.5 mm deep on each side so not much hull thickness left.
 
I still am undecided on the planking.
I think using large pieces of plywood will not allow a fair hull. I may need to plank the hull the usual way. 
I d like to cut the planks from plywood sheet but plywood does not cut very cleanly on the scroll saw- there are various other blades though.
I could however use wood for the planks or a hybrid approach - use ply at the bow and the stern and wood in between. We will see.
 
Till next time
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
I thought it is a good time for a short post, mainly one of frustration.
Hercules true to the name is fighting me every step of the way and so far, is winning.
 
I ve had difficulties with lofting, difficulties printing the patterns, difficulties gluing them. My laminates that usually come dead straight are bent. My computer died and now, my disk sander started playing up and is in for repair under warranty.
 
But there is more. The new paper template came out in wrinkles. I suspect the spray glue I ve been using has gone bad as all the paper templates I ve glued so far are also coming off very easily. Strangely, the main pattern it is also off by a millimetre or so. The keel does not fully match the pattern - I really cannot figure out why.

But there has been some progress despite the difficulties. After a lot of sanding and lots of scraping to remove the paper patterns and the glue residue, the frames are dry fitted.


I started gluing the filler pieces, at this stage I will also cut the rabet.


I do need to tidy up a bit but it is far too cold.
 
Lots of things to do: cut the rabet, align the frames, epoxy them in place, glue the strengthening pieces and very importantly the planking. I thought I would get away with it by using flat sheets of plywood but I am not so sure now. I think it will need to be a proper planking job.
I am not entirely sure how things will work out in the end but it is a fun project!
 
Best wishes
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
I thought it is a good time for a short post, mainly one of frustration.
Hercules true to the name is fighting me every step of the way and so far, is winning.
 
I ve had difficulties with lofting, difficulties printing the patterns, difficulties gluing them. My laminates that usually come dead straight are bent. My computer died and now, my disk sander started playing up and is in for repair under warranty.
 
But there is more. The new paper template came out in wrinkles. I suspect the spray glue I ve been using has gone bad as all the paper templates I ve glued so far are also coming off very easily. Strangely, the main pattern it is also off by a millimetre or so. The keel does not fully match the pattern - I really cannot figure out why.

But there has been some progress despite the difficulties. After a lot of sanding and lots of scraping to remove the paper patterns and the glue residue, the frames are dry fitted.


I started gluing the filler pieces, at this stage I will also cut the rabet.


I do need to tidy up a bit but it is far too cold.
 
Lots of things to do: cut the rabet, align the frames, epoxy them in place, glue the strengthening pieces and very importantly the planking. I thought I would get away with it by using flat sheets of plywood but I am not so sure now. I think it will need to be a proper planking job.
I am not entirely sure how things will work out in the end but it is a fun project!
 
Best wishes
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
I thought it is a good time for a short post, mainly one of frustration.
Hercules true to the name is fighting me every step of the way and so far, is winning.
 
I ve had difficulties with lofting, difficulties printing the patterns, difficulties gluing them. My laminates that usually come dead straight are bent. My computer died and now, my disk sander started playing up and is in for repair under warranty.
 
But there is more. The new paper template came out in wrinkles. I suspect the spray glue I ve been using has gone bad as all the paper templates I ve glued so far are also coming off very easily. Strangely, the main pattern it is also off by a millimetre or so. The keel does not fully match the pattern - I really cannot figure out why.

But there has been some progress despite the difficulties. After a lot of sanding and lots of scraping to remove the paper patterns and the glue residue, the frames are dry fitted.


I started gluing the filler pieces, at this stage I will also cut the rabet.


I do need to tidy up a bit but it is far too cold.
 
Lots of things to do: cut the rabet, align the frames, epoxy them in place, glue the strengthening pieces and very importantly the planking. I thought I would get away with it by using flat sheets of plywood but I am not so sure now. I think it will need to be a proper planking job.
I am not entirely sure how things will work out in the end but it is a fun project!
 
Best wishes
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
I thought it is a good time for a short post, mainly one of frustration.
Hercules true to the name is fighting me every step of the way and so far, is winning.
 
I ve had difficulties with lofting, difficulties printing the patterns, difficulties gluing them. My laminates that usually come dead straight are bent. My computer died and now, my disk sander started playing up and is in for repair under warranty.
 
But there is more. The new paper template came out in wrinkles. I suspect the spray glue I ve been using has gone bad as all the paper templates I ve glued so far are also coming off very easily. Strangely, the main pattern it is also off by a millimetre or so. The keel does not fully match the pattern - I really cannot figure out why.

But there has been some progress despite the difficulties. After a lot of sanding and lots of scraping to remove the paper patterns and the glue residue, the frames are dry fitted.


I started gluing the filler pieces, at this stage I will also cut the rabet.


I do need to tidy up a bit but it is far too cold.
 
Lots of things to do: cut the rabet, align the frames, epoxy them in place, glue the strengthening pieces and very importantly the planking. I thought I would get away with it by using flat sheets of plywood but I am not so sure now. I think it will need to be a proper planking job.
I am not entirely sure how things will work out in the end but it is a fun project!
 
Best wishes
Vaddoc

I think we all feel your pain as we've have spells of frustration as well! Hopefully things will pick up for you.

Dear all
 
I thought it is a good time for a short post, mainly one of frustration.
Hercules true to the name is fighting me every step of the way and so far, is winning.
 
I ve had difficulties with lofting, difficulties printing the patterns, difficulties gluing them. My laminates that usually come dead straight are bent. My computer died and now, my disk sander started playing up and is in for repair under warranty.
 
But there is more. The new paper template came out in wrinkles. I suspect the spray glue I ve been using has gone bad as all the paper templates I ve glued so far are also coming off very easily. Strangely, the main pattern it is also off by a millimetre or so. The keel does not fully match the pattern - I really cannot figure out why.

But there has been some progress despite the difficulties. After a lot of sanding and lots of scraping to remove the paper patterns and the glue residue, the frames are dry fitted.


I started gluing the filler pieces, at this stage I will also cut the rabet.


I do need to tidy up a bit but it is far too cold.
 
Lots of things to do: cut the rabet, align the frames, epoxy them in place, glue the strengthening pieces and very importantly the planking. I thought I would get away with it by using flat sheets of plywood but I am not so sure now. I think it will need to be a proper planking job.
I am not entirely sure how things will work out in the end but it is a fun project!
 
Best wishes
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
I thought it is a good time for a short post, mainly one of frustration.
Hercules true to the name is fighting me every step of the way and so far, is winning.
 
I ve had difficulties with lofting, difficulties printing the patterns, difficulties gluing them. My laminates that usually come dead straight are bent. My computer died and now, my disk sander started playing up and is in for repair under warranty.
 
But there is more. The new paper template came out in wrinkles. I suspect the spray glue I ve been using has gone bad as all the paper templates I ve glued so far are also coming off very easily. Strangely, the main pattern it is also off by a millimetre or so. The keel does not fully match the pattern - I really cannot figure out why.

But there has been some progress despite the difficulties. After a lot of sanding and lots of scraping to remove the paper patterns and the glue residue, the frames are dry fitted.


I started gluing the filler pieces, at this stage I will also cut the rabet.


I do need to tidy up a bit but it is far too cold.
 
Lots of things to do: cut the rabet, align the frames, epoxy them in place, glue the strengthening pieces and very importantly the planking. I thought I would get away with it by using flat sheets of plywood but I am not so sure now. I think it will need to be a proper planking job.
I am not entirely sure how things will work out in the end but it is a fun project!
 
Best wishes
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
I thought it is a good time for a short post, mainly one of frustration.
Hercules true to the name is fighting me every step of the way and so far, is winning.
 
I ve had difficulties with lofting, difficulties printing the patterns, difficulties gluing them. My laminates that usually come dead straight are bent. My computer died and now, my disk sander started playing up and is in for repair under warranty.
 
But there is more. The new paper template came out in wrinkles. I suspect the spray glue I ve been using has gone bad as all the paper templates I ve glued so far are also coming off very easily. Strangely, the main pattern it is also off by a millimetre or so. The keel does not fully match the pattern - I really cannot figure out why.

But there has been some progress despite the difficulties. After a lot of sanding and lots of scraping to remove the paper patterns and the glue residue, the frames are dry fitted.


I started gluing the filler pieces, at this stage I will also cut the rabet.


I do need to tidy up a bit but it is far too cold.
 
Lots of things to do: cut the rabet, align the frames, epoxy them in place, glue the strengthening pieces and very importantly the planking. I thought I would get away with it by using flat sheets of plywood but I am not so sure now. I think it will need to be a proper planking job.
I am not entirely sure how things will work out in the end but it is a fun project!
 
Best wishes
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
I thought it is a good time for a short post, mainly one of frustration.
Hercules true to the name is fighting me every step of the way and so far, is winning.
 
I ve had difficulties with lofting, difficulties printing the patterns, difficulties gluing them. My laminates that usually come dead straight are bent. My computer died and now, my disk sander started playing up and is in for repair under warranty.
 
But there is more. The new paper template came out in wrinkles. I suspect the spray glue I ve been using has gone bad as all the paper templates I ve glued so far are also coming off very easily. Strangely, the main pattern it is also off by a millimetre or so. The keel does not fully match the pattern - I really cannot figure out why.

But there has been some progress despite the difficulties. After a lot of sanding and lots of scraping to remove the paper patterns and the glue residue, the frames are dry fitted.


I started gluing the filler pieces, at this stage I will also cut the rabet.


I do need to tidy up a bit but it is far too cold.
 
Lots of things to do: cut the rabet, align the frames, epoxy them in place, glue the strengthening pieces and very importantly the planking. I thought I would get away with it by using flat sheets of plywood but I am not so sure now. I think it will need to be a proper planking job.
I am not entirely sure how things will work out in the end but it is a fun project!
 
Best wishes
Vaddoc

Dear all
 
I thought it is a good time for a short post, mainly one of frustration.
Hercules true to the name is fighting me every step of the way and so far, is winning.
 
I ve had difficulties with lofting, difficulties printing the patterns, difficulties gluing them. My laminates that usually come dead straight are bent. My computer died and now, my disk sander started playing up and is in for repair under warranty.
 
But there is more. The new paper template came out in wrinkles. I suspect the spray glue I ve been using has gone bad as all the paper templates I ve glued so far are also coming off very easily. Strangely, the main pattern it is also off by a millimetre or so. The keel does not fully match the pattern - I really cannot figure out why.

But there has been some progress despite the difficulties. After a lot of sanding and lots of scraping to remove the paper patterns and the glue residue, the frames are dry fitted.


I started gluing the filler pieces, at this stage I will also cut the rabet.


I do need to tidy up a bit but it is far too cold.
 
Lots of things to do: cut the rabet, align the frames, epoxy them in place, glue the strengthening pieces and very importantly the planking. I thought I would get away with it by using flat sheets of plywood but I am not so sure now. I think it will need to be a proper planking job.
I am not entirely sure how things will work out in the end but it is a fun project!
 
Best wishes
Vaddoc

Phil, I have no doubt you are right. It will all be hidden and there is nothing that a bit of sanding and a bit of filler cannot correct. And indeed, a small piece of plank material is enough to just find the shape of the rabbet at that frame. I went through your log and of course your hull came out fine.
Apologies, just going a bit overboard with CAD! 
Not to worry though, things will soon revert to normality and will start going pear shaped the moment I touch the ply with a chisel!
 
Vaddoc

I did a bit more work on the boat, so time for an update.
 
@Mark Pearse Indeed Mark, I wanted to build something much larger and more of a proper ship. I actually looked into building Ed's Young America POF, but this would be an extremely expensive project which at this time cannot be considered. I bumped onto Hercules and immediately liked the boat - rest is history! (in the making) 
 
So, I cut the space for the propeller and removed some of the paper template so that the frames can slide into place - they do not actually, all the frame slots need filling as they are not wide enough.
 
I also cut all the filler pieces for both sides and sanded all their bevels. These are needed to give support to the garboard planks as I will not be filling the gaps between the frames with wood. This went remarkably well, although some of the bevels had complex shapes. I only had to redo 3 out of the 30 pieces.

This is a piece that had to be redone, the disk sander is not forgiving.

I also sanded all the bevels in the frames. It went well but some fairing will be needed for the frames at the middle of the hull. These are all the pieces that need to be glued. This will need a lot of work: the paper template will need to be removed and the surface sanded or scraped to remove the glue residue and the pieces temporarily screwed in to check that the frames can slide between them.  I think I ll use epoxy, it is a messy glue but has great gap filling properties.

The elegant curves of the hull and frames, or alternatively Hercules after a dose of Delayed Mouse Making Potion.


I am assuming that my CAD plans are accurate and that I ve cut the wood accurately. Of course neither is certain. The bevels seem reasonable though.


I will need to cut the rabbet before I install the frames. I will first though glue on the filler pieces, as the angle of their bevel will help cutting the hull bevel. In theory, I have all I need to cut the rabbet accurately as all lines and the interaction of the planking with the hull are marked on the templates. However, chiseling plywood is difficult and requires extra sharp chisels. 

Take care all
 
Vaddoc

Phil, I have no doubt you are right. It will all be hidden and there is nothing that a bit of sanding and a bit of filler cannot correct. And indeed, a small piece of plank material is enough to just find the shape of the rabbet at that frame. I went through your log and of course your hull came out fine.
Apologies, just going a bit overboard with CAD! 
Not to worry though, things will soon revert to normality and will start going pear shaped the moment I touch the ply with a chisel!
 
Vaddoc

Phil, I have no doubt you are right. It will all be hidden and there is nothing that a bit of sanding and a bit of filler cannot correct. And indeed, a small piece of plank material is enough to just find the shape of the rabbet at that frame. I went through your log and of course your hull came out fine.
Apologies, just going a bit overboard with CAD! 
Not to worry though, things will soon revert to normality and will start going pear shaped the moment I touch the ply with a chisel!
 
Vaddoc

Phil, I have no doubt you are right. It will all be hidden and there is nothing that a bit of sanding and a bit of filler cannot correct. And indeed, a small piece of plank material is enough to just find the shape of the rabbet at that frame. I went through your log and of course your hull came out fine.
Apologies, just going a bit overboard with CAD! 
Not to worry though, things will soon revert to normality and will start going pear shaped the moment I touch the ply with a chisel!
 
Vaddoc

Vaddoc,
 
I appreciate the work you are doing to get the angles leading into the rabbet just right. However, I found on my MSI hull that the only really important part was the shape (curve) of the rabbet. The planks curved based on the bulkheads and fit into the rabbet without much trouble. At the bow I just filled the spaces between the bulkheads and faired the filler with the bulkheads.
 
And the way I got the rabbet precisely where I wanted it, and to the right thickness, was to glue keel extension pieces to the sides of the keel, to the top edges of these extension pieces formed the rabbet. I did a little cutting to deepen the rabbet a bit at the bow and on the stern deadwood, but I didn't have to be too careful because it is all hidden under the planking.

I did a bit more work on the boat, so time for an update.
 
@Mark Pearse Indeed Mark, I wanted to build something much larger and more of a proper ship. I actually looked into building Ed's Young America POF, but this would be an extremely expensive project which at this time cannot be considered. I bumped onto Hercules and immediately liked the boat - rest is history! (in the making) 
 
So, I cut the space for the propeller and removed some of the paper template so that the frames can slide into place - they do not actually, all the frame slots need filling as they are not wide enough.
 
I also cut all the filler pieces for both sides and sanded all their bevels. These are needed to give support to the garboard planks as I will not be filling the gaps between the frames with wood. This went remarkably well, although some of the bevels had complex shapes. I only had to redo 3 out of the 30 pieces.

This is a piece that had to be redone, the disk sander is not forgiving.

I also sanded all the bevels in the frames. It went well but some fairing will be needed for the frames at the middle of the hull. These are all the pieces that need to be glued. This will need a lot of work: the paper template will need to be removed and the surface sanded or scraped to remove the glue residue and the pieces temporarily screwed in to check that the frames can slide between them.  I think I ll use epoxy, it is a messy glue but has great gap filling properties.

The elegant curves of the hull and frames, or alternatively Hercules after a dose of Delayed Mouse Making Potion.


I am assuming that my CAD plans are accurate and that I ve cut the wood accurately. Of course neither is certain. The bevels seem reasonable though.


I will need to cut the rabbet before I install the frames. I will first though glue on the filler pieces, as the angle of their bevel will help cutting the hull bevel. In theory, I have all I need to cut the rabbet accurately as all lines and the interaction of the planking with the hull are marked on the templates. However, chiseling plywood is difficult and requires extra sharp chisels. 

Take care all
 
Vaddoc

I did a bit more work on the boat, so time for an update.
 
@Mark Pearse Indeed Mark, I wanted to build something much larger and more of a proper ship. I actually looked into building Ed's Young America POF, but this would be an extremely expensive project which at this time cannot be considered. I bumped onto Hercules and immediately liked the boat - rest is history! (in the making) 
 
So, I cut the space for the propeller and removed some of the paper template so that the frames can slide into place - they do not actually, all the frame slots need filling as they are not wide enough.
 
I also cut all the filler pieces for both sides and sanded all their bevels. These are needed to give support to the garboard planks as I will not be filling the gaps between the frames with wood. This went remarkably well, although some of the bevels had complex shapes. I only had to redo 3 out of the 30 pieces.

This is a piece that had to be redone, the disk sander is not forgiving.

I also sanded all the bevels in the frames. It went well but some fairing will be needed for the frames at the middle of the hull. These are all the pieces that need to be glued. This will need a lot of work: the paper template will need to be removed and the surface sanded or scraped to remove the glue residue and the pieces temporarily screwed in to check that the frames can slide between them.  I think I ll use epoxy, it is a messy glue but has great gap filling properties.

The elegant curves of the hull and frames, or alternatively Hercules after a dose of Delayed Mouse Making Potion.


I am assuming that my CAD plans are accurate and that I ve cut the wood accurately. Of course neither is certain. The bevels seem reasonable though.


I will need to cut the rabbet before I install the frames. I will first though glue on the filler pieces, as the angle of their bevel will help cutting the hull bevel. In theory, I have all I need to cut the rabbet accurately as all lines and the interaction of the planking with the hull are marked on the templates. However, chiseling plywood is difficult and requires extra sharp chisels. 

Take care all
 
Vaddoc

I did a bit more work on the boat, so time for an update.
 
@Mark Pearse Indeed Mark, I wanted to build something much larger and more of a proper ship. I actually looked into building Ed's Young America POF, but this would be an extremely expensive project which at this time cannot be considered. I bumped onto Hercules and immediately liked the boat - rest is history! (in the making) 
 
So, I cut the space for the propeller and removed some of the paper template so that the frames can slide into place - they do not actually, all the frame slots need filling as they are not wide enough.
 
I also cut all the filler pieces for both sides and sanded all their bevels. These are needed to give support to the garboard planks as I will not be filling the gaps between the frames with wood. This went remarkably well, although some of the bevels had complex shapes. I only had to redo 3 out of the 30 pieces.

This is a piece that had to be redone, the disk sander is not forgiving.

I also sanded all the bevels in the frames. It went well but some fairing will be needed for the frames at the middle of the hull. These are all the pieces that need to be glued. This will need a lot of work: the paper template will need to be removed and the surface sanded or scraped to remove the glue residue and the pieces temporarily screwed in to check that the frames can slide between them.  I think I ll use epoxy, it is a messy glue but has great gap filling properties.

The elegant curves of the hull and frames, or alternatively Hercules after a dose of Delayed Mouse Making Potion.


I am assuming that my CAD plans are accurate and that I ve cut the wood accurately. Of course neither is certain. The bevels seem reasonable though.


I will need to cut the rabbet before I install the frames. I will first though glue on the filler pieces, as the angle of their bevel will help cutting the hull bevel. In theory, I have all I need to cut the rabbet accurately as all lines and the interaction of the planking with the hull are marked on the templates. However, chiseling plywood is difficult and requires extra sharp chisels. 

Take care all
 
Vaddoc