catopower

Tony,
 
What a fantastic job you are doing on this build. The only negative comment I can make on this blog is that there is only a LIKE button, when there should be a LOVE button!
 
A masterfully built model. I hadn't looked in on it before, but now I'm going to have to go back to the beginning of your blog and start learning how to build a ship model the right way.
 
Clare

For the record, here are the photos of the mainstay in its corrected position!
 

 

 
Tony

GAFF AND BOOM

As with the mast, I made the gaff and boom out of pear, again using the dimensions given by Steel, as well as by Biddlecombe in his 1848 book on the Art of Rigging.

The photo below shows the CAD drawings I made for the dimensions.



YARDS

Similarly I made the yards using Steel’s dimensions, and used a template to put the battens around the yards. You’ll note that I experimented with different batten widths for each yard so that the battens would fit perfectly. I painted all the yards black after gluing on the battens. You'll see them once I get to the stage of rigging the yards.



DEADEYES

I used a jig made out of paper clips for the deadeye spacing (following the idea on Hubert Sicard's site).







You’ll see later how these were rigged.

SETTING UP THE BACKSTAYS, SHROUDS, PENDANTS

Following Petersson, I placed the pendants for the mast tackles first (he calls them Burton Pendants), along with the foresail halliard pendant, followed by the shrouds in their correct sequence. (I also placed the foresail halliard pendant at the same time, but forgot to take the picture -- you'll see that later in other photos).
 
[EDIT: As a matter of interest to those interested in forward planning, I discovered too late that it would have been very handy not to have fitted the top mast and the top cap before adding the shrouds. If I had not fitted the top mast and cap, it would have been much easier not only to tie the shrouds very easily, but also to fit the two sets of pendants (mast tackle and back stay) in the correct manner.]
 


I realised fairly quickly that it would be much easier to set up the mast in a small jig clamped to the desk so that I could keep the shrouds taut whilst stropping them at the top.





TOP ROPE

Next came the top rope, belayed to the ring on the jeer bitt and fastened to a cleat on the mast. The picture here shows only the lower end. You’ll see the part at the top later on (when you’ll also note that the distance between sheave and block is a bit too short, mea culpa).



RIGGING THE SHROUDS TO DEADEYES

This was done using the jig as follows.







MAINSTAY
Following the example of the models at Chatham, and the Petersson drawings, I left out a preventer stay and just have a main stay. The mouse is not done properly as I felt I hadn’t the skills to sew one, so I just made it on the wood lathe with a piece of wood.

You'll notice I haven't yet put rings on the main stay to hold the foresail. This is because I'll be making them in the crossover pattern shown in Marquardt.

You'll also notice the hook for the foresail halliard hooked to the back of the stem behind the main stay which links to a block round the cross trees and is fastened to the third belaying pin on the port side (which fastening you'll see in the photos relating to the deadeyes).



NOTE: I do recognise that the tidiness of my rigging, especially at the cross trees, is not up to the standard of most others in this forum, but I put this down to lack of experience and something to learn from!

AND OOOOOPS! [EDIT] Dirk noticed I'd slipped the main stay over the topmast. I really don't know how I did that as I knew better. All the same, it'll be changed!
 
[EDIT 2] Pictures of the corrected main stay in post http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/335-hmc-sherbourne-by-tkay11-–-caldercraft-–-scale-164-1763-a-novice’s-caldercraft-sherbourne/?p=373484 below.

So far, the summary of the state of the mainstay and rigging at the cross trees is shown in the following two photos.

You'll see here the lower yard sling which I haven't shown separately. I decided just to have a mast sling alone and have not included the mast halliards after a discussion I had about this in other posts. The general feeling was that the mast was often left just in the sling on such vessels, and Petersson also shows it without halliards -- as do some of the cutter models in Chatham.





MAST TACKLES

I made the Burton pendants to attach to the mast tackles as shown in Petersson. They are used to haul things to the deck or act in helping the stowing of anchors.

However, I couldn’t make much sense of the diagram for the tackles used by Petersson. I had a discussion about this in separate posts, and people agreed that the diagram shown by Marquardt is more accurate. I therefore followed Marquardt.



And here is Marquardt's drawing:



And this is how the tackle looks on the model (note that whereas Marquardt shows a double block, I have used a fiddle block instead, in keeping with the tackle for the back stays):



BACKSTAYS

I followed Petersson in the rigging of the backstays, despite not seeing this type of rigging elsewhere. What he shows seems to be the use of the tackle at the backstays to add a loading tackle in the middle. The drawing comes from a contemporary model.

This type of rigging required the addition of an extra cleat to the inside of the bulwarks as you can see.





OVERVIEW
The following gives the overview of work so far. You'll notice I haven't added the coils to the ropes on the belaying pins, but of course that will be done later in the build.



Next up (sometime, in the future, in a galaxy far far away) will be the work on the Jib with its halliard and the yards.

Tony

Looks very good. The Sherbourne is a beautiful little ship and it is so nice to see builders upgrading the kit so often. BTW this is my Sherbourne, about 6 weeks away from completition (Hope to finish it before chrismas). Second build, first was the schooner ballahoo (CC).

BELAYING PINS AT BOW
 
Following my visit to Chatham, which I described at
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10370-18th-and-early-19th-century-cutter-models/
 
I decided to change the belaying pin rack at the bow. Gregor, Dirk, Kester and myself have had different approaches to this, but two of the models I saw had their racks positioned fore-aft beside the bowsprit and linking to the pawl post. I therefore decided that this was a really neat solution, dismantled the belaying racks I had made and replaced them as follows:
 

 
You’ll see pictures of the contemporary models with this arrangement at the posting I have given above.
 
Next up: the main mast
 
Tony

For the rigging I followed Petersson's book of Rigging Period Fore and Aft Craft and the AOTS book on the Cutter Alert as well as Marquardt and Steel in the references given above.
 
The boom was prepared first by fixing the tackle for the main sheet with its pulleys and cleat.
 

 
The sail was then bent to the gaff using running lacing, and to the hoops on the mast. The peak halliard, throat halliard and topping lift were then rigged as shown in the photos below.
 
The only point of interest is that some may worry about the placing of the hook for the fall of the tackle of the peak halliard since Petersson does not show where it is fixed. Steel places it on the starboard channel at the rear, so I followed his very good advice.
 
You'll note that some of the previous rigging is now a little less taut. This is simply because with all the hauling of the peak halliard, the throat halliard and the topping lift the mast was pulled back a bit. All will be readjusted, as will the ends of the ropes round their various belaying points much later in the build.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
The next phase will be the cross-jack and topgallant sails, followed by the foresail and jib. Then, down the line, the anchors and the swivel guns.
 
Tony

Hi Gents,
 
Thanks very much for your kind words and comments and also for hitting the "like" button, all are very much appreciated.
 
This is the penultimate update, she's completed apart from the display case which should arrive some time this week.
 
I made the Channel Board from 7/16 x 1/16 Swiss Pear, with the template in place I filed the chain cut outs to 1.0mm, I was using 0.04 brass strip for the Chain Plate and didn't need to go too deep. The Chain Plate retaining Paunch is just a straight piece of 1/16 Swiss Pear, the Channel Knees were also 1/16 Swiss Pear.
 
The Chain Plates were cut to a width of 2mm from 0.04mm brass sheet and the end bent around a 1.0mm brass rod, I left a tail on the loop which when fitted would go through the cut outs on the Chain Plate locking the Iron Chain Strop in place, the opposite end had a 0.8mm hole drilled. I pre-shaped my first set of Chain Plates but these turned out to be a dismal failure and a new set was cut and left straight apart from the loop, until they were fitted.
 
The Iron Chain Strop which locks the Deadeye's in place is 0.5mm Copper Wire, this was wrapped around the Deadeye's and a full twist tight beneath them held them in place, the tails were then wound around a 1.0mm brass rod, this loop was then fitted into the loop on the Iron Chain Strops. The Chain Plates and Iron Chain Strops were then blackened using John Penny Antiquing Fluid.
 
Next up came the Swivel Gun Pedestal, These are 3/16 x 3/16 Swiss Pear, they had to be filed down to 6 sides and shaped to fit the Hull and Sheer Rail, a 0.8mm hole was drilled in the top for the Swivel Gun Mounting Yoke. As a small piece of decoration a small sticky backed copper band was placed around the top.
 
The Yoke was made from some spare Hammock Chains from my Agamemnon, they were shaped and cut down to size, 4 x Eyebolts were then glued to top of the Yoke using Resin ( I tried to solder them on but failed miserably, just too small ).
 
The Swivel Guns were next, these little beasties were made from 1/14 x 1/14 Ebony and they done my head in. They weren't difficult to turn except that I still cant get two the same but the basic problem was quite important, I couldn't see the damn things!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.
 
I had all the lights available to me on the job but I still had to put white paper under them so I could see what I was doing, the only casualty was me in that I ended up with one hell of a headache from eyestrain, anyway the muzzle was drilled out and a hole drilled through to take Trunion.  
 
Next up came the Entry Port Ladders, these were made from 3/32 x 1/8 Swiss Pear. I cut three stripes 4" long and glued them together staggering each strip thus forming the basic shape, they were then cut into 5 x 5/8 steps and each end filed forming the step.
 
The last thing I had to do before assembly was to drill and fill the Hull Treenails, 0.8mm holes were drilled and a mixture of saw dust used to fill back. I made the filling from Holly, Ebony and Pear mixed with a white filler, the end result is quite pleasing to my eye. 
 
With all the parts made it was time to assemble, I fixed the Entry Port Ladders in place followed by the Chain Board, the Swivel Gun Pedestal was then fixed in place. The Iron Chain Strops were then placed into the Chain Board and the bottoms pinned in place. All that was left to fit was the Swivel Gun Yokes, these just pushed into the Pedestal and did not need fixing.
 
A couple of coats of Poly Satin finish and all is complete, so I do have some pictures but as usual I get too involved with what I'm doing and didn't photo the processes.
 
Some Picture
 
   
 
 
 
I forgot to mention the stand, I didn't like the stand, I thought it's a bit too chunky and so cut it down, I wont go into written details as I do have some pics that cover that side.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
So that's it guys, quite a big entry so if anybody has any questions please ask away.
 
Final update will be with the Display Case.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Further to my last post I do have some more pics of the stands
 
 
 
 
 

 
I hope that helps.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 

Here are the bulkheads sitting in the center keel, with their bevels:
 

 

 
The bulkheads sat slightly low in the center keel, which I took care of later:
 

 
Here is one of the bow filler blocks, with its edge beveled:
 

 
Here it is during one of my test fits:
 

 
Here's the beveled stern block during a test fitting:
 

 
I applied some Titebond III and clamped the bow filler blocks to the center keel (I did this first to allow me to position the first bulkhead square in the slot).
 

 
To make the bulkheads sit flush with the top of the center keel, I cut a small piece of index card so that it could be glued into the top of the slot of each bulkhead.  This was the perfect thickness to get a flush fit.  In this photo, the card has not been trimmed down to match the width of the slot yet (I did this to make it easier to see in the photo):
 

 
Here are the bulkheads, sitting flush, during the gluing process:
 

 
I glued each bulkhead, checked for perfect alignment, then let it set up before moving to the next bulkhead.
 

 
The results were quite pleasing:
 

 

 

 

Thanks, guys!  I'm a little worried about my fairing job.  I had planned on getting the bulkheads glued in before I started fairing, but the instructions suggested that this be done beforehand, so I gave it a shot.  It was not easy to figure out how much to take off each bulkhead while things were only in the "test fit" stage, so I'm worried that the angles might be a little off.  I suppose I can always go in with a little wood filler and then sand the edges of the filled bulkheads to the proper angle if I find that this is the case...  
 
I had planned to spile the planks for each layer of the hull, but since I don't yet have my wider lime and walnut sheets from which to cut my spiled planks, I'm wondering if I should just plank the first layer normally and spile the outer walnut layer...  I don't think this will affect the final appearance of the hull, and it would give me experience with both methods of planking.  Decisions, decisions!

I used the false deck to check the alignment of the bulkheads, and everything looked good.
 

 

 
I marked a center line on the false deck to aid in planking the deck later (note that the holes for the bowsprit bitts are offset to the LEFT):
 

 
Interestingly, my false deck was slightly warped, but I was confident that this would work itself out when the false deck was glued to the tops of the bulkheads and false keel.
 

 
I used a combination of rubber bands and modified binder clips to hold the false deck down during gluing.  I made sure that the deck was centered, and that it followed the slight curve of the tops of the bulkheads (the deck curves downward on the port and starboard sides, which was done to allow water to drain from the deck at sea; it also curves upward toward the bow and stern):
 

 
The foremost hatch opening was too small for me to fit a binder clip into, so I ran a rubber band around the center keel and held it in place with toothpicks:
 

 
In this picture, you can see how the binder clips hold the deck down against the center keel, allowing it to take on the right curvature while the glue sets:
 

 
In these pictures we can see the false deck held in place, with the proper curvature:
 

 

 

 

 
And this is how I left it for tonight, to give the glue time to completely cure:
 

 
So far, I've spent 9 hours on this model.  Stay tuned for more!

This log will document my progress as I build the Amati/Victory Models Lady Nelson.  I've always wanted to build a wooden ship model, but I've never had the time.  Now that I'm finally out of school, it's time to get started!  I've done a good amount of research before starting this build, but I'm sure I'll have some questions for the experienced and knowledgeable members of this forum as I make my way through the build.  Thank you in advance for your help!  
 
I'm going to do my best to take as many closeup photos of the process as I can.  Perhaps they will be helpful to other modelers in the future!  So, let's get started!
 
After taking a look through the kit and getting acquainted with the instructions (which are basic), I sat down at my workspace with the sheet containing the bulkheads:
 

 
First, I numbered all of the bulkheads, based on the plans.  Then, I cut them out using my X-Acto.  The cutting left some rough remnants of the tabs that held the pieces into their sheets:
 

 
So, I sanded these smooth with my sanding stick:
 

 

 
The final bulkhead/transom sits at an angle in the center keel:
 

 
This piece had to be beveled to match the angle of the center keel:
 

 

 
Here it is, sitting flush with the center keel:
 

 
Next came the fairing of the fore and aft bulkheads.  I did this before I glued anything in place, as it made the process easier.  I fit the bulkheads in the center keel and bent a plank around them to get a feel for the required curvature, then filed by hand:
 

 

 
Here is the second bulkhead fitted in the center keel, with its bevel on the forward edge:
 

 
Here is the foremost bulkhead, with its extreme bevel:
 

 

 
I test fit each bulkhead, marking each with the letters "F" and "A" to represent the fore side and aft sides, respectively:
 

Thanks for the comment and advice Carl, all.
 
Well, I think I'm able to declare success!
 
Had the quarterly meeting of shipmodelers at our gathering place at the Vallejo Naval and Historical Museum yesterday morning. After nearly 3 hours ship model shop talk about lunch with a fellow shipmodeler afterterwards, I managed to have a marathon session of rattling down the shrouds. All worked out pretty well and I didn't notice the stretching issue as much.
 
So, this morning, I tried spraying the completed work with the fixative. The matte varnish had a bit of sheen, so I used the matte fixative, which dried much faster, so I could use a heavier coat. It didn't really do much to lock the clove hitches in place, so I just brushed on some acrylic matte varnish. I know it works and it's quick to apply.
 
I trimmed off the excess line from the ratlines and the shouds looked okay.
 
 

 
 
But, then... I went ahead and took a thick piece of black rigging line, threaded it under the shrouds and then pulled the line tight. As I did, I could feel it slip tight against the mast head and I could actually see the shrouds tightening up.
 
I know it's cheating, but you will never be able to see this extra piece of line at this scale. And, after all, much of model making is about the art of illusion. Below, you can see the excess line sticking out.
 
 

 
 
So, now, after I secure that piece of line and cut the excess, I can comfortably start rigging the standing rigging on the bowsprit.
 
 
Clare

I've now mounted and rigged the boom and gaff. Before describing that work, I present a cautionary tale. This about not thinking far enough ahead and simply following plans without research or thought. I had chosen to mount and rig the yards before the boom and gaff. In the past, I have done this both ways without much difference. In mounting the yards, I decided to use simplified trusses, as shown on the plans with a note that many cutters did not use them and they are optional. I chose to use them because they help to hold the yard to the mast securely during rigging. Not until all of the work on the yards was complete did I notice on the the plans that the gaff is shown as being above the lower yard on the mast. Since the gaff slides up and down on the mast, this seemed an odd and improbable situation.
 
At this point, I contacted Chuck to get his input on this. He agreed with my conclusion, but provided persuasive evidence from contemporary models that this was, in fact, the way it was done on many cutters, particularly those that did not employ trusses on the lower yard. I was going to try to remove the truss and mount the gaff above the yard, when it became apparent that the only way to accomplish this would be to remove virtually all of the rigging to the yards that was now in the way. I chose not to do this, but go with mounting the gaff below the yard, as shown on some models with trusses. It also seems, from my exchange with Chuck, that if a truss was employed and the gaff shown below the yard, the fore and aft braces on the lower yard, one of the most visually interesting features of the cutter rig, would not be used, but only the forward brace.
 
In any event, the boom and gaff are now in place and rigged. Mounting involved making parrels for each from black beads. The boom rigging consists of a topping lift and the boom sheet. The gaff rigging involved the peak and throat halliards and the flag halliard. All of the blocks had been attached to the boom and gaff and the masthead before mounting the boom and gaff. After completing this work, I permanently tied off a number of lines that had previously been only temporarily done and added rope coils.
 
This completes the rigging except for the lower yard braces. While I understand that it is probably accurate to use only the forward braces, given what I've done, I really like the look of the double braces.   What should I do?
 
Bob

Well, I finally made up my mind on the braces. Let's just say that my heart  overcame my head (the purists can line up over here and start beating me around the head    ). This completes the rigging.
 
While I was agonizing on the brace issue, I made up the two anchors. Given my longtime aversion to metal work, the anchors are made entirely of sheet and strip boxwood. The bands on the stocks are black painted paper. The rings are wire bent to shape, with .025" line wrapped around them for the puddening. I'm still at a loss, even after consulting with Chuck and reviewing photos of contemporary models, as to how to mount the anchors. I've tried a few ways and nothing seems quite right.
 
Bob

Thanks for the comment and advice Carl, all.
 
Well, I think I'm able to declare success!
 
Had the quarterly meeting of shipmodelers at our gathering place at the Vallejo Naval and Historical Museum yesterday morning. After nearly 3 hours ship model shop talk about lunch with a fellow shipmodeler afterterwards, I managed to have a marathon session of rattling down the shrouds. All worked out pretty well and I didn't notice the stretching issue as much.
 
So, this morning, I tried spraying the completed work with the fixative. The matte varnish had a bit of sheen, so I used the matte fixative, which dried much faster, so I could use a heavier coat. It didn't really do much to lock the clove hitches in place, so I just brushed on some acrylic matte varnish. I know it works and it's quick to apply.
 
I trimmed off the excess line from the ratlines and the shouds looked okay.
 
 

 
 
But, then... I went ahead and took a thick piece of black rigging line, threaded it under the shrouds and then pulled the line tight. As I did, I could feel it slip tight against the mast head and I could actually see the shrouds tightening up.
 
I know it's cheating, but you will never be able to see this extra piece of line at this scale. And, after all, much of model making is about the art of illusion. Below, you can see the excess line sticking out.
 
 

 
 
So, now, after I secure that piece of line and cut the excess, I can comfortably start rigging the standing rigging on the bowsprit.
 
 
Clare

Thanks for the comment and advice Carl, all.
 
Well, I think I'm able to declare success!
 
Had the quarterly meeting of shipmodelers at our gathering place at the Vallejo Naval and Historical Museum yesterday morning. After nearly 3 hours ship model shop talk about lunch with a fellow shipmodeler afterterwards, I managed to have a marathon session of rattling down the shrouds. All worked out pretty well and I didn't notice the stretching issue as much.
 
So, this morning, I tried spraying the completed work with the fixative. The matte varnish had a bit of sheen, so I used the matte fixative, which dried much faster, so I could use a heavier coat. It didn't really do much to lock the clove hitches in place, so I just brushed on some acrylic matte varnish. I know it works and it's quick to apply.
 
I trimmed off the excess line from the ratlines and the shouds looked okay.
 
 

 
 
But, then... I went ahead and took a thick piece of black rigging line, threaded it under the shrouds and then pulled the line tight. As I did, I could feel it slip tight against the mast head and I could actually see the shrouds tightening up.
 
I know it's cheating, but you will never be able to see this extra piece of line at this scale. And, after all, much of model making is about the art of illusion. Below, you can see the excess line sticking out.
 
 

 
 
So, now, after I secure that piece of line and cut the excess, I can comfortably start rigging the standing rigging on the bowsprit.
 
 
Clare

Hi Carl,
 
You reminded me that I have a couple cans of artist's matte spray from Prisma Color and from Grumbacher. Do you know how those compare with the hair spray? Grumbacher is a Matt Varnish, Prisma Color just calls theirs "Fixative". I'm guessing that "fixative" is just an expensive can of hair spray.
 
Appreciate the advice!
 
Clare

Hi Cog,
 
I never really considered it. Do you know what kind of chemical is used in hairspray? I assumed it wore off after a short time.
 
But, now that you mention it, I have hit the hull and deck with a little Testor's Flat Lacquer. Hides those tiny glue specks really well.
 
I was thinking about hitting the rigging with it to help seal the line and to secure the knots. So, maybe that's the same idea as what you're suggesting. 
 
Clare

Thanks Carl, I appreciate any comment that suggests that I don't have to fix anything!
 
Mark, to answer your earlier question, the Morope is a little shiny in the closeups, as you say. And to answer your question, it's Polyester.
 
Clare

Hi Mark,
 
The need for pre-stretching might be the issue here. Too late for the work done so far. But, it hasn't affected the backstays or the forestays, just the shrouds.
 
The other thing that I started to consider is the perhaps there IS a paper model issue here. I'm wondering if anyone with paper sailing ship model experience has noticed some settling of the mast down into the hull, even a miniscule amount. Just in case, in the future, I thing I would put some reinforcing at the mast step.
 
Thinking on it now, I can't imagine the card stock NOT crushing just a little under the strain of the rigging. But, I could just be imaging excuses for my own shortcomings here.
 
I finished the ratlines on one side, but haven't trimmed or glued the knots in place yet.
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
Still thinking about how to procede. I might have to step away from it for a bit and look at it with a fresh perspective. Tomorrow, there's a ship modeler's gathering I organize at the Vallejo Naval and Historical Museum near Mare Island. I'll probably take it there and see what people think.
 
Again, I may rattle down (?) the starboard side shrouds and then see what I can do to tighten it all up together. 
 
Clare
 
 

In my last post, I didn't have any photos to illustrate the differences in the rigging line that I was referring to. So, I took a few shots to post here.
 

Above is a coil of Morope on the left and Syren line on the right. They both have good definition and look very nice. I don't recall the difference in pricing, but I don't remember it being a very great difference.
 
 

Here is a closeup of the Morope line.
 
 

And a closeup of the Syren line.
 
The above are roughly equivalent sizes. And, of course, for my model in 1/8" scale, I'm only using very small sizes. So, the larger sizes will look a little different in comparison. What's shown is roughly 0.4 mm diameter line.
 
 

When the Morope is glued so that it doesn't unravel, it doesn't look too different from the Syren line. Except of course, the Syren line looks like this freshly cut, without any special treatment.
 
 
 

While this doesn't usually happen to me since I make sure to glue the line before cutting it, here is the Morope and the Syren line both freshly cut with no special treatment of the line. As you can see, the Morope wildly unwinds. It will continue to do so if it's not tied off or treated with glue. It's not necessarily a problem if it's handled properly. But, it's a shame it's like this as the Morope does have very good visual definition, and is available in left and right hand twists. 
 
I haven't run into any serious problems with the stuff as far as I can tell, but it is a concern as I work. Also, the Morope does seem stretchier and doesn't hold it's shape as well as the Syren line. For instance, if I make a coil of line, the Syren line is easier to work with, and holds the shape better. 
 
I'm not trying to push one or the other. I'm just pointing out the difference and a possible related issue I'm having with the forward most shrouds, which are served Morope line.
 
Clare

Thanks for the comment and advice Carl, all.
 
Well, I think I'm able to declare success!
 
Had the quarterly meeting of shipmodelers at our gathering place at the Vallejo Naval and Historical Museum yesterday morning. After nearly 3 hours ship model shop talk about lunch with a fellow shipmodeler afterterwards, I managed to have a marathon session of rattling down the shrouds. All worked out pretty well and I didn't notice the stretching issue as much.
 
So, this morning, I tried spraying the completed work with the fixative. The matte varnish had a bit of sheen, so I used the matte fixative, which dried much faster, so I could use a heavier coat. It didn't really do much to lock the clove hitches in place, so I just brushed on some acrylic matte varnish. I know it works and it's quick to apply.
 
I trimmed off the excess line from the ratlines and the shouds looked okay.
 
 

 
 
But, then... I went ahead and took a thick piece of black rigging line, threaded it under the shrouds and then pulled the line tight. As I did, I could feel it slip tight against the mast head and I could actually see the shrouds tightening up.
 
I know it's cheating, but you will never be able to see this extra piece of line at this scale. And, after all, much of model making is about the art of illusion. Below, you can see the excess line sticking out.
 
 

 
 
So, now, after I secure that piece of line and cut the excess, I can comfortably start rigging the standing rigging on the bowsprit.
 
 
Clare

Well done Clare

Thanks for the comment and advice Carl, all.
 
Well, I think I'm able to declare success!
 
Had the quarterly meeting of shipmodelers at our gathering place at the Vallejo Naval and Historical Museum yesterday morning. After nearly 3 hours ship model shop talk about lunch with a fellow shipmodeler afterterwards, I managed to have a marathon session of rattling down the shrouds. All worked out pretty well and I didn't notice the stretching issue as much.
 
So, this morning, I tried spraying the completed work with the fixative. The matte varnish had a bit of sheen, so I used the matte fixative, which dried much faster, so I could use a heavier coat. It didn't really do much to lock the clove hitches in place, so I just brushed on some acrylic matte varnish. I know it works and it's quick to apply.
 
I trimmed off the excess line from the ratlines and the shouds looked okay.
 
 

 
 
But, then... I went ahead and took a thick piece of black rigging line, threaded it under the shrouds and then pulled the line tight. As I did, I could feel it slip tight against the mast head and I could actually see the shrouds tightening up.
 
I know it's cheating, but you will never be able to see this extra piece of line at this scale. And, after all, much of model making is about the art of illusion. Below, you can see the excess line sticking out.
 
 

 
 
So, now, after I secure that piece of line and cut the excess, I can comfortably start rigging the standing rigging on the bowsprit.
 
 
Clare