Dziadeczek

I carved my own transom from a thin piece of wood (cherry, if I remember).

Is this, by any chance, holly?

Is this, by any chance, holly?

Should be CA. Sorry...

I don't know what size of these eyelets you need?
In any case, I once found a plastic box of tiny eyelets (I think they were 1/8 in.) on Amazon for dirt cheap (their shafts were threaded though, and not smooth).
But, if you have a pin vise, get a short length (about an inch) of wire, the thickness of which is the same as the size of your eye on the eyelets you need.
Shape its end into something similar on the pic you attached above (but do not close the hook completely!). Take a similar length of the wire for your eyelets and bend it into "U". Clamp both ends in a vise and catch the "U" with your hook mounted in the pin vise. Twist the pin vise in your hands until the wire will clamp tightly around the hook. Cut off ends for desired lengths. Release the eyelet from the hook. 
If you want to have smooth shaft, cover the twists with a melted solder, otherwise left alone, they will act like a thread and pushed into a hole and CD glued, will sit there tightly.

If you are referring to tiny wire rings, you can make them by wrapping a  piece of wire around a shaft of a drill bit (of suitable thickness) fastened in a vise, to look like a spring. Than stretch this spring a bit and cut off individual rings. If you want to, you can solder the ends of each ring together with a tiny soldering iron.
If you are referring to small thimbles, you can make them from a piece of small brass tubing, by cutting off short lengths on a small table saw (I have the PREAC) and than gently hammer each end out with a nail that has its end shaped (filed) like a funnel.

If you are referring to tiny wire rings, you can make them by wrapping a  piece of wire around a shaft of a drill bit (of suitable thickness) fastened in a vise, to look like a spring. Than stretch this spring a bit and cut off individual rings. If you want to, you can solder the ends of each ring together with a tiny soldering iron.
If you are referring to small thimbles, you can make them from a piece of small brass tubing, by cutting off short lengths on a small table saw (I have the PREAC) and than gently hammer each end out with a nail that has its end shaped (filed) like a funnel.

Hi,
 
Thank you All for many likes!!! 🍻
 
Thank you @ccoyle Chris for such a nice and generous comment  really appreciate it... 🍻  gives me a lot of motivation to not mess it up 🙃
 
@Dziadeczek Tomek I have similar tools... even with them in such a tight spot it was a challenge to make all the loops and hang coils... but it's done... Thanks God 😆 Thank you for your comment 🍻
 
@Backer Thank you Patrick! 🍻 Really appreciate your comment

This time I'm ready to show you how I approach anchors subject.

I had another "toughie" about anchor buoy.
I've decided to go ahead with O. Blom visualization.

One more time I've seen at least 4 different kinds of buoys... but I bet on the simple look... simple vessel = simple buoy 🥴
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
...and because when I did above photos I forgot to attach anchor ropes 😜😆  I have another session with ropes.

Two different knots for big (1) and small (2) anchor.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Cheers,
Matt

Mati,
Make yourself a few rigging tools, like those shown - to make this task easier.
Otherwise, your model looks PERFECT! Congrats!!!

Hi Erik,
Where do you get your Woody Joe kits from?
Ages ago I built a nice little model of a Japanese brigantine "Osyoru Maru" from the now defunct Japanese company IMAI (which was subsequently bought by Woody Joe). I remember, this was a nice little kit, good quality materials and pictorial instructions easily understood (I don't speak Japanese). Although, I remember, I replaced kit's wood with my own cherry, pear and maple...
So, if Woody Joe makes equally good kits, you won't be disappointed with your Cutty Sark.
 
Where exactly do you live in LA? I live in Glendale, in the San Fernando Valley, between  Pasadena and Burbank. I wish we could meet next year in the planned (so far) Nautical Research Guild conference, provided this Covid19 paranoia finally goes away... I am keeping my fingers crossed!
We could talk about shipmodeling until the proverbial cows come home, he he...   😄
 
What are you currently building? I am in the middle of the rigging on my Frenchie in 1: 48 (after mr. Boudriot's 4 volumes on the 74 gun ship). Painstaking task!
Regards,
Thomas

Hi Erik,
Where do you get your Woody Joe kits from?
Ages ago I built a nice little model of a Japanese brigantine "Osyoru Maru" from the now defunct Japanese company IMAI (which was subsequently bought by Woody Joe). I remember, this was a nice little kit, good quality materials and pictorial instructions easily understood (I don't speak Japanese). Although, I remember, I replaced kit's wood with my own cherry, pear and maple...
So, if Woody Joe makes equally good kits, you won't be disappointed with your Cutty Sark.
 
Where exactly do you live in LA? I live in Glendale, in the San Fernando Valley, between  Pasadena and Burbank. I wish we could meet next year in the planned (so far) Nautical Research Guild conference, provided this Covid19 paranoia finally goes away... I am keeping my fingers crossed!
We could talk about shipmodeling until the proverbial cows come home, he he...   😄
 
What are you currently building? I am in the middle of the rigging on my Frenchie in 1: 48 (after mr. Boudriot's 4 volumes on the 74 gun ship). Painstaking task!
Regards,
Thomas

Hi Erik,
Where do you get your Woody Joe kits from?
Ages ago I built a nice little model of a Japanese brigantine "Osyoru Maru" from the now defunct Japanese company IMAI (which was subsequently bought by Woody Joe). I remember, this was a nice little kit, good quality materials and pictorial instructions easily understood (I don't speak Japanese). Although, I remember, I replaced kit's wood with my own cherry, pear and maple...
So, if Woody Joe makes equally good kits, you won't be disappointed with your Cutty Sark.
 
Where exactly do you live in LA? I live in Glendale, in the San Fernando Valley, between  Pasadena and Burbank. I wish we could meet next year in the planned (so far) Nautical Research Guild conference, provided this Covid19 paranoia finally goes away... I am keeping my fingers crossed!
We could talk about shipmodeling until the proverbial cows come home, he he...   😄
 
What are you currently building? I am in the middle of the rigging on my Frenchie in 1: 48 (after mr. Boudriot's 4 volumes on the 74 gun ship). Painstaking task!
Regards,
Thomas

Hi Erik,
Where do you get your Woody Joe kits from?
Ages ago I built a nice little model of a Japanese brigantine "Osyoru Maru" from the now defunct Japanese company IMAI (which was subsequently bought by Woody Joe). I remember, this was a nice little kit, good quality materials and pictorial instructions easily understood (I don't speak Japanese). Although, I remember, I replaced kit's wood with my own cherry, pear and maple...
So, if Woody Joe makes equally good kits, you won't be disappointed with your Cutty Sark.
 
Where exactly do you live in LA? I live in Glendale, in the San Fernando Valley, between  Pasadena and Burbank. I wish we could meet next year in the planned (so far) Nautical Research Guild conference, provided this Covid19 paranoia finally goes away... I am keeping my fingers crossed!
We could talk about shipmodeling until the proverbial cows come home, he he...   😄
 
What are you currently building? I am in the middle of the rigging on my Frenchie in 1: 48 (after mr. Boudriot's 4 volumes on the 74 gun ship). Painstaking task!
Regards,
Thomas

I've been thinking about future projects, and I've always wanted to build a great clipper ship.  I've looked at all of the notable kit options (Red Jacket, Flying Fish, Thermopylae, etc.) , but I noticed that WoodyJOE offers several versions of Cutty Sark.  There's a huge, 1:80 version that's over 40"long, and then a 1:100 version, with or without sails. 
 
I may see if I can purchase the 1:100 without sails.  It's about 34" long.  From what I can tell, the quality, packaging and instructions are similar to the Susquehanna.  I think Cutty Sark would be a good clipper to build, since there is abundant information available on her, and I could bash a bit to bring it up to a higher level.  I'd certainly want to do real copper plating on the hull.  
 

Mati,
Make yourself a few rigging tools, like those shown - to make this task easier.
Otherwise, your model looks PERFECT! Congrats!!!

Mati,
 
Hung your coils onto the pins, like it is shown in this video.
 

Mati,
Make yourself a few rigging tools, like those shown - to make this task easier.
Otherwise, your model looks PERFECT! Congrats!!!

Mati,
 
Hung your coils onto the pins, like it is shown in this video.
 

Mati,
Make yourself a few rigging tools, like those shown - to make this task easier.
Otherwise, your model looks PERFECT! Congrats!!!

Mati,
Make yourself a few rigging tools, like those shown - to make this task easier.
Otherwise, your model looks PERFECT! Congrats!!!

Mati,
 
Hung your coils onto the pins, like it is shown in this video.
 

Since you have Photoshop play with tweaking white balance. This works much better if the photos are shot RAW, but jpegs can also have WB adjusted to a degree. Maybe reduce magenta or just slide the temperature left (cooler) a bit. 
 
Though not on a model photo, I’ve spent hours on editing a single landscape photo, many of which are in my galleries at GlennBarlow|Photography Yes blatant self promotion 😁

Please open up the link below and subsequently go into the link in my entry there, to read my thoughts on plastic deadeyes and blocks from Billings.
For the reason I mentioned, I would replace all plastic fittings into wooden ones and bend them properly (wrap the running ends of shrouds AROUND each deadeye), because the little eyelet on each deadeye will break away in time, under the tension from the rope. Plastic is brittle!
 

Thank you Ron, GrandpaPhil and Sam.
Really appreciate your comments. Thanks! 🍻🍻🍻
 
 
It's been a while without any update... but I've made some progress...
...few steps closer to the end...

So... after 674 clove hitch knots later... all ratlines are done.
Fore and main shrouds: ~0.20mm rope
Mizzen and top shrouds: ~0.14mm rope

Ratline ropes should be a little bit thinner... but I was not satisfied with the look of the rope made of 2x1 and that's the thinest 3x1 ropes I was able to make  so it has to be this way... maybe nobody will check this with micrometer 😆
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
My goal while rigging the model was to include all ropes. As many as possible... even when model doesn't have sails.
So it bring us to few ropes called bowline, leechline and buntline. As you might be aware, they were fixed to the sails cringles... but no sails = no cringles 
...I had to improvise... and those ropes were fixed to the yards using bowline knot.
I have little bit hard time to get good quality photo of those ropes due to quite small diameter and amount of other ropes around... macro lens and focusing it's a little bit of challenge, so... sorry if it's not clear enough. If someone will need better shot let me know I will try to focus on some specific detail.
 

 

 

 

 

 
 
I've also managed to rig the staff on the aft.
I will not hang flags (at least now... maybe one day I will change my mind 😆)
However... I've tried to still include partial rigging.
With flag... visible ropes should be attached to the flag corner cringles by toggles... and flag itself should be secured by rope run spiral from top to bottom around the staff.
In fact visible ropes were use only for rising or lowering.
 

 

 

 
 
...and to conclude this post I will drop few photos of general look.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Cheers,
Matt

Thank you,  Moderator.