Dziadeczek

@JerryTodd
Thank you for your praise. Nice to hear.
 
 
Continued: Equipment of the fore yard - topsail sheets, lifts and studding sail booms
In the meantime, the topsail sheets, the lifts and the studding sail booms were attached to the fore yard for my little French girl.
I almost forgot an important detail to complete the equipment of the fore yard, namely the arrangement of the blocks for the clewlines, the sheets and the tacks.
I'll do that again and report back soon.
So see you soon...
 
                     

@druxey
@JerryTodd
@jdbondy
Hello fellow colleagues,
I am really happy about this feedback. Thanks a lot for this, also for the many LIKES.
 
Jerry,
Thanks for the hint.
OK, my mistake, I should have attached the lifts.
So don't worry, once the lifts are in place, they will of course prevent the strop for the brace block from being pulled out over the sheet sheave.
I've done that in the meantime, as you can see in the picture.

The rope for the sheet has also been drawn in.
 

I "painted" them to the canvas with diluted white glue (Elmer's) and a small brush, and gently "persuaded" them to hung down until glue dried.
Once glue is dried, it is invisible.
My model is in 1:48 scale.

I "painted" them to the canvas with diluted white glue (Elmer's) and a small brush, and gently "persuaded" them to hung down until glue dried.
Once glue is dried, it is invisible.
My model is in 1:48 scale.

fore topgallant yard and sail
 
The fore topgallant sail was again a reduced and simplified one as it was to be furled. Similar to previous sails all the lines were attached and then yard and sail hoisted and fixed with tie, lifts, braces and parrel rope.  However sometime during that process I found that the main topmast stay was broken. The eye around the mouse had somehow parted. After pondering about repair possibilities I had to admit that the cleanest solution would be to make a new stay. All this promoted of course the use of some creative language...
 
Fortunately my running rigging's belayings are fixed with diluted white glue which may be dissolved again with some water. The fore bits are quite crowded with rigging but most of the time I was able to untie the correct lines and other times I had to revert again to creative expressions. The new stay was set around the masthead and then threaded through the robands of the topmast staysail and led to the point above the bits, where a new block was spliced into its end. Now after re-belaying a zillion lines I could finish the topgallant yard.
 

fore topgallant yard with furled sail in place
 

 

 
 
 
 
hoisting the flag
 
Sometime during all that sail work I also made a flag to hoist at the mizzen gaff. I wanted to have a red ensign with the pattern after 1800, the one Napoleon might have seen, when he was aboard. Trials with an inkjet printer didn't work. It was not possible to print congruently on both sides of the fabric and, worse still, the ink would run with any liquid including something to seal it.
 
Some patience, textile paint and fiddling with masking tape brought an acceptable result. The flag is hand painted onto the same cotton I use for the sails.
Hoisting it was a bit difficult. Obviously the flag line leads through a block at the gaff but where to belay it at the deck? The kit's plans show a block at deck level with the ends of the flag line seemingly joined into a loop.  But no information where on deck that block was positioned. Information in my clever books and the web was also vague about the lower end of flag lines.
 
As the length of the loop of the line should be adjustable to the position of the gaff I decided to hook the lower block into a free ringbolt at the taffrail, and join the line ends with some spare length coiled and hanging there. I have no idea what the navy way was but that's the best I could come up with my way.
 
 

red ensign with the pattern after 1800
 
 


 
 
 
 
 
 

Continued from previous post...
 
The Loading Dock
 

 

 

 
The Main Dock
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
That completes the series of "glam" shots and brings this project to a close. I'd like to thank all of you who have followed along and offered support, encouragement and advice along the way. This has been a most enjoyable diversion into this style of modelling and I've learned a lot along the way. i do have another of these kits in my stash (Foss's Landing), but I've got a ship or two to build first.
 
Stay tuned for the next exciting adventure!
 

If you use Windows 10, it has a free, already factory preloaded program, (Microsoft Office Picture Manager), where you can click on "Picture" and than select "Rotate and Flip", and finally "Save".
 

A while ago somebody (I don't remember his name) has posted this image of the HMS Victory (along many others)...

A while ago somebody (I don't remember his name) has posted this image of the HMS Victory (along many others)...

A while ago somebody (I don't remember his name) has posted this image of the HMS Victory (along many others)...

Check this (post nr. #4).
Also see this :   
 
Gebhard Kammerlander shows edge bending from ~ 3:15 onwards.
 

Check this (post nr. #4).
Also see this :   
 
Gebhard Kammerlander shows edge bending from ~ 3:15 onwards.
 

Check this (post nr. #4).
Also see this :   
 
Gebhard Kammerlander shows edge bending from ~ 3:15 onwards.
 

Vanda-Lay treenail maker - Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck - Model Ship World™
 
I have all three cutters they used to make. The smallest one is very difficult to use, the hardwood tends to break during cutting. The other two work OK, if you carefully use hardwood, like cherry, maple, pear, and the best of all - boxwood. I successfully made lots of treenails, also used an extension tube to cut them longer.
But, if you want to make your treenails from bamboo, it is better to use a drawplate. Bamboo has long and strong fibres that tolerate firm pulling.
If however you want to make your treenails from hardwoods, the treenail maker works better  - because you're pushing the wood, not pulling (provided that the cutter size is correct for your scale).

Actually, in my case, the cotton ropes get tighter when the humidity goes up (~70%) and the temps get down (~60 F).
When the humidity goes down (~40%) and ambient temps go up (~75 F). the lines get loose and are sagging.
 
As I promised, I did a little experiment out of the model. I stretched three pieces of rope (each ~ 18 inches long) and treated them with three different substances: Shellac, Wipe Poly satin and Testors Dullcote - these are what I had handy around the house.  (I avoided any substance which is water based, since I thought it would not insulate the ropes well enough from moisture).
 
 After the first coat (brushed on), I noticed that the treatment has helped somewhat, but not enough. The ropes were still stretching and shrinking, albeit not so much. So, I repeated the same applications. Right now, I am waiting for the results, when the weather gets dryer/warmer (which is more normal for this area).
I also noticed that shellac gave some shine to the rope - a bit undesirable...   😬  Wipe poly looks shiny and whitish.  No...  😬
But after two coats of Dullcote (petroleum-based product), the third rope looks virtually indistinguishable - no shine and no color change!!!   😀
So, i think I will opt for this Dullcote for my rigging.
I attach three pics of each rope treated with the above (in the same sequence).
Notice that these pics are large enlargements of the original ropes, so the effects are somewhat exaggerated, when compared with the original lines.
 

Many thanks, Druxey and Bob Cleek, for your advice! I too was thinking about clear shellac, since white PVC glue, when dry, would still absorb moisture, soften up and allow it to penetrate into the ropes, and thus the situation would continue...
Shellac should seal the ropes and stop the expansion/shrinkage phases, in relation to changing humidity. At least, in theory.
I certainly will try it on a length of rope stretched outside of the model, and let you know the results.
If it doesn't work, the model aircraft dope will be next.
Thanks again!   🙂
Thomas

Is there a way to fix sagging standing rigging on my model? I made those from cotton threads which I twisted on my ropewalk. They looked good and when I mounted them on the model, they were fairly tight, just right, not too tight and not too loose.
But, when we got wet this winter and cold weather came in here, those lines (mosty stays) became loose. At first I thought, I would pretend that "I did it deliberately to show natural way of slightly loose lines", but with each bout of rains and cold and subsequent warm/dry temps, sagging became too pronounced, I am afraid.
If I tighten them some more, when the temps again drop down and we get more rains, they might became too tight and break, I fear.
I don't want to replace them with synthetics - at this stage it would be way too laborious and probably impossible, maneuvering in the midst of this spiderweb of other ropes all over. 
Is there a way to gently coat them with something that would insulate them from the elements and excessive temp/humidity spikes? If so, what should I use?
Thanks,
Regards,
Thomas
 

Started to install and rig the yards.

Indeed it does!
 
Read the below threads (from the "articles - more" drop-down menu at the forum masthead) which address the problem of rope unraveling generally and polyester rope unraveling particularly. Note Chuck Passaro's method of "heat treating" polyester rope to eliminate unraveling. The information in these threads will probably solve your problems with unraveling.
 
 
 

I would simply replace the planks with, say, cherry - it is a bit "stronger" wood specie, similar color, although with slightly more pronounced grain. If you cut new planks on a table saw, you can carefully select better areas from your board and make your cuts along the grain and not across it or at an angle.
Cherry is a pretty common hardwood, so you should not have any troubles locating it in hardwood lumberyards in your area.

I always pre stretch my ropes right after I remove them from the ropewalk.
Some time ago I got a large spool of linen thread from Barbour, if I remember. The thread is snow white and too stiff to make ropes from. I don't think one can get appropriate linen thread anymore. Who knows, maybe polyester instead of cotton, after all. But I found that polyester is even more "springy" and has this undesirable tendency to suddenly unravel once you cut it...  😕
 

I would simply replace the planks with, say, cherry - it is a bit "stronger" wood specie, similar color, although with slightly more pronounced grain. If you cut new planks on a table saw, you can carefully select better areas from your board and make your cuts along the grain and not across it or at an angle.
Cherry is a pretty common hardwood, so you should not have any troubles locating it in hardwood lumberyards in your area.

I would simply replace the planks with, say, cherry - it is a bit "stronger" wood specie, similar color, although with slightly more pronounced grain. If you cut new planks on a table saw, you can carefully select better areas from your board and make your cuts along the grain and not across it or at an angle.
Cherry is a pretty common hardwood, so you should not have any troubles locating it in hardwood lumberyards in your area.

I would simply replace the planks with, say, cherry - it is a bit "stronger" wood specie, similar color, although with slightly more pronounced grain. If you cut new planks on a table saw, you can carefully select better areas from your board and make your cuts along the grain and not across it or at an angle.
Cherry is a pretty common hardwood, so you should not have any troubles locating it in hardwood lumberyards in your area.