molasses

Cruizers, part 4:  HMS Pelican
 
The Cruizer-class brig-sloop HMS Pelican launched in August 1812, commissioned on 11 December 1812 under Commander John Fordyce Maples and assigned to the Irish station for convoy escort duty.  On 5 May 1813, she captured the American schooner Neptune’s Barge near Jamaica.  Pelican carried the usual class armament of 16 x 32 pounder carronades, 2 x 6 pound guns (in the forward ports) and a 12 pound carronade mounted on a gun carriage for use as a boat gun.  She also had a pair of 6 pound brass guns, acquired by her captain in Jamaica, at the stern ports and a crew of 116 men and boys.
 
On 10 August 1813 she arrived in Cork, Ireland, as escort to a convoy from the West Indies and joined the hunt two days later for USS Argus which had been raiding British shipping in home waters for a month. 
 
USS Argus’s Specifications
Length:  94 ft 6 inches (gun-deck)
Beam:  28 ft 2 inches
Tonnage:  299 (burthen)
Rig:  brig-rigged sloop
Armament:  18 x 24 pounder carronades + 1 x 12 pounder chase gun
Complement:  102
 
On 18 June 1813 the USS Argus, carrying the new American minister to France, eluded the British blockade of New York Harbor with Master Commander William Henry Allen in command.  Argus was Allen’s first command after promotion for his part as First Lieutenant of the United States during her victory over the Macedonian.  Argus had her armament increased by 2 x 24 pound carronades in the forward ports and removal of 1 x 12 pound gun while blockaded in New York (previously 16 x 24 + 2 x 12)
 
Argus disembarked the minister in Lorient on 11 July and left three days later to begin commerce raiding in the English Channel and Irish Sea.  During the following month, Argus captured nineteen vessels.  Most were burned rather than being sent to America, France or a neutral port as prizes (with prize crews) which would have reduced Argus’s fighting ability.
 
On the evening of 13 August, Pelican observed a burning ship ahead and a brig sailing away from it.  Maples ordered all sails set to give chase but lost sight of her in the darkness.  At 4:45 am, Pelican spotted flames to the northeast from a ship that had just been fired with the same brig seen earlier separating and heading towards several merchantmen to the southeast.
 

HMS Pelican vs USS Argus
14 August 1813
 
Although Argus was the faster vessel and was lighter armed (about 82% of Pelican’s weight of broadside) Allen chose to shorten sail at about 5:00 am to allow Pelican to catch up rather than outrun her and evade battle.  With a moderate wind from the south, Pelican had the weather gage.  At a few minutes before 6 am Pelican hoisted her colors, followed by Argus which then wore onto the starboard tack and fired her broadside at grape shot range which was reciprocated by Pelican.
 
Four minutes later, Captain Allen lost his left leg to a round shot from Pelican but refused to go below until he fainted from blood loss when First Lieutenant William H. Watson took command and ordered him taken below.  Watson soon followed his captain to the orlop with a grape shot wound to the head.  Second Lieutenant William Howard Allen (who was not related to William Henry Allen) then took command.  Argus suffered severe damage to her main braces, main springstay, gaff and trysail mast in these first minutes of the battle.
 
At 6:14, Pelican attempted to pass astern of Argus, but Lieutenant Allen ordered all sails aback, frustrating the attempt and bestowing at the same time an ineffectual raking broadside.  Two or three minutes later Argus lost the use of all her main sails after suffering more rigging damage and fell off before the wind.  Pelican at 6:18 passed her stern, raked her heavily and ranged up on her starboard quarter.  In a few minutes, the wheel-ropes and more rigging were shot away and Argus became utterly unmanageable.  Pelican continued raking her with impunity and at 6:35 passed her broadside to take up a position on her starboard bow.  At 6:45 the brigs came together and the British were in the act of boarding when Argus struck her colors.
 
Pelican suffered but two dead and five wounded.  Captain Maples had a narrow escape when a spent grape or canister shot struck him in the chest, breaking a coat button, and fell to the deck.  Her hull was peppered with embedded grape shot, her rigging and sails were much cut up, her foremast, main topmast and royal masts were wounded, and two carronades were dismounted.
 
Argus had ten killed or mortally wounded and fourteen wounded.  Besides the damage previously noted she also had her hull and lower masts cut up and several carronades dismounted.
 
Captain Maples dispatched his prize with half her crew, including the wounded, and a third of his crew with his first and only lieutenant in command to Plymouth.  Maples took Pelican with the remaining half of the prisoners back to Cork to report his victory to Admiral Thornborough.  Maples received a promotion and a post command.  Captain Allen died from his wound on 18 August and was buried with full naval honors on 21 August.  Lieutenant Watson recovered from his head wound.  Argus was not taken into service with the Royal Navy and her crew was imprisoned until the end of the war.
 
This engagement reversed the numerical disparities in size, armament and crew between the Cruizer class brig-sloops, Frolic and Peacock, and the bigger American ship-sloops, Wasp and Hornet, with predictable results.  Although the amount of disparity between Argus and Pelican was about the same as in the other two battles, the outcome, in terms of damage inflicted, was not.  Wasp dismasted Frolic, inflicting 58 casualties while suffering 15 in 45 minutes of battle.  Hornet partially dismasted and sank Peacock, inflicting 38 casualties while taking 3 in 15 minutes.  Pelican disabled Argus with rigging damage, inflicting 28 casualties while taking 7 in 45 minutes.  These numbers suggest that the gunnery on Pelican was about on par with the gunnery on Frolic while the gunnery on Argus was worse than on Peacock.  Reasons for the poor American gunnery in this battle have been debated ever since.
 
Some of the factors debated are:
1)  Physical exhaustion from a month of being on nearly constant alert in the enemy’s home waters while capturing nineteen enemy vessels, including two during the night before the battle, which would have prevented anyone on board Argus from getting any sleep.
2)  One of those two captured vessels had of cargo of wine from Portugal.  There is no reason to believe that an unknown amount of that wine did not somehow make its way on board the Argus and into an unknown number of her crew.
3)  Argus lost her captain and first officer in the first eight minutes of battle and her two midshipmen as well some time during the battle.  This would have left her batteries without proper supervision and could easily have resulted in poor gunnery.  The loss of four of the five officers on board could very easily demoralize a crew.
4)  An officer of the Argus reported after the War was over that Captain Allen had taken a quantity of powder on board from a prize to replenish her magazine.  The gunner shortly after filled a number of cartridge bags with this powder that had been placed in the top of the magazine.  It was later ascertained that this powder was condemned and bound for South America to be sold.  This officer also claimed as proof that Pelican’s sides were dotted with impressions of shot that did not enter.
 
HMS Pelican returned to convoy escort duty for the remainder of the War of 1812.  She later served in the Mediterranean suppressing piracy.
 
In 1850 Pelican was transferred to the Coast Guard, renamed CGWV 29 and stationed at Rye, East Sussex.  She was sold in 1865 giving her the longest government career – 53 years – of all the Cruizer class brig sloops.
 
Pelican might make an interesting variation of Caldercraft/Jotika’s Cruizer with the armament change.  She was remarkable for being the only Cruizer to win against a nominally equal American vessel in an otherwise very boring career, and for her longevity.
 
 
Next:  HMS Epervier
 
 
Edited for font size and a text correction.
Edited for correction of armament on Argus.
 
Sources: 
The Naval History of Great Britain by William James, 1824
History of the Navy of the United States by J. Fenimore Cooper, 1836
The Naval War of 1812 by Theodore Roosevelt, 1900
The Age of Fighting Sail by C. S. Forester, 1957
Dictionary of American Naval Fighting Ships, Dept US Navy, (online)

I definitely appreciate your comments, and anything you choose to add (or correct if need be) is welcome.  I'm not a scholar or writer, I'm a modeler who enjoys learning about the human and historical connections of the subjects I'm considering for models.  I thought it would be interesting to other modelers to learn about some of the Cruizer-class brig-sloops that can be built from the Cruizer kit with relatively easy modifications, usually no more than a change in armament.  I can build only one of them - I'm leaning toward Raven at present but can easily change my mind.
 
The lashed-down un-mounted gun reference came from James' Naval History, so it doesn't surprise me that you found more in his Occurrences.  I'm finding James to be interesting reading as long as I have other secondary sources at hand to read in parallel.  He is good at presenting the facts from his original sources, but from time to time, when he draws conclusions relating to US Navy vs Royal Navy engagements in the War of 1812, he lets his intense irritation at the RN losses override his scholarship.
 
It's becoming quite clear that the armament of vessels was very much up to the discretion of their commanding officers such as was done with Raven and Peacock, and with the additions made to Frolic that clears up the discrepancy between Jones's report and her standard armament.  I was very disturbed by the possibility that Jones had exaggerated Frolic's armament and had it perpetuated by the US Navy; I'm pleased to learn of a plausible, documented explanation.
 
I'll write about Pelican next, and Avon shortly after that.  

Cruizers, part 2:  HMS Frolic vs USS Wasp
 
The Cruizer-class brig-sloop HMS Frolic launched on 9 February, 1806 and commissioned soon after.
 
She was one of seventy vessels in Portsmouth in December 1806 when news arrived that Tsar Alexander I of Russia had declared war on Great Britain and the subsequent seizure of two Russian navy vessels, the frigate Speshnoy and storeship Wilhelmina transporting payroll for a Russian squadron in the Mediterranean.
 
Frolic, under Commander Thomas Whinyates, sailed for the West Indies on 21 February 1808.  There she participated in the invasion of Martinique in February 1809, the invasion of Guadeloupe from 28 January to 6 February 1810 and was among the force present at the surrender of Saint Martin on 17 February.
 
The United States declared war against Great Britain 18 June, 1812.  Both sides pursued the naval war with privateer and regular navy vessels.  Fortunately for the United States, Great Britain was heavily involved in the war in Europe and had few vessels to assign to the war against the United States.
 
Frolic left the Gulf of Honduras bound for England on 12 September as escort to a convoy of approximately fourteen merchant vessels.  Near Havana, Cuba, Captain Thomas Whinyates learned of the war with the United States and USS Constitution's capture and sinking of HMS Guerriere from a passing ship.  Frolic, having now been five years in the West Indies, was due for re-fit and for her captain to take command of a vessel befitting his recent promotion to post captain.  She was also short handed (eleven short of full complement) with 92 officers and men plus 18 boys, and had one salvaged 12 pounder carronade, lashed down in the bow.  Her armament included the standard 16 x 32 pounder carronades, 2 x 6 pounder guns in the forward gun ports, 2 x brass 6 pounder guns (captain's property) in the stern chase ports and a 12 pounder carronade on a gun carriage (for use as a boat gun) on the forecastle platform. [see post #5.] 
 
Approximately 300 miles north of Bermuda the convoy encountered a violent gale of wind on 16 October.  The gale scattered the convoy and carried away Frolic’s main yard, sprung her main topmast and shredded both topsails.  She started jury repairs and recovered six vessels of the convoy the next day.
 
Wasp, newly refitted and with a full crew of hand-picked volunteers, Master Commandant Jacob Jones in command, left the Delaware River on 13 October heading south-east to intercept vessels bound for England from the West Indies.  She encountered the same storm and suffered damage to her jib boom and two crewmen lost overboard on the 16th.  At 11:30 pm the next day, look-outs spotted the sails of Frolic and the remnants of the convoy to leeward.  Jones maintained Wasp’s distance from the unidentified sail until dawn.
 
USS Wasp’s Specifications
Length:  105 ft 10 ½ inches
Beam:  30 ft 10 inches
Tonnage:  434 (burthen)
Rig:  ship-rigged sloop
Armament:  16 x 32 pounder carronades + 2 x long 12 pounder brass guns + 2 x 4 pounder brass guns, usually carried in the tops but taken down and on deck due to the recent gale.
Complement:  140
 
The next morning Jones identified the vessels as British merchantmen with a Royal Navy brig, flying Spanish colors to mislead Wasp, standing between Wasp and the merchantmen.  Although the weather was clear, there was still a strong wind blowing and heavy seas.  Both vessels cleared for action and shortened sail.  Frolic secured the unfinished jury main yard to the deck and set the boom mainsail and a reefed fore topsail.  Since both vessels carried a main armament of short-range carronades, there was no attempt at maneuvering to gain advantage before the fight.
 
They closed to about 60 yards with the Wasp to starboard and slightly to windward and Frolic to port.  Wasp's hail was answered by a broadside which was instantly returned.  Wind and sea reduced the distance and the action became close and furious.  In less than five minutes Frolic shot away Wasp’s main topmast followed by her gaff and mizzen top-gallant mast shortly after.
 
The sea was so rough that the muzzles of the guns on both vessels were frequently under water, the amount of roll worse for Frolic because of her diminished stores.  Still the cannonade continued with mutual spirit.  The American crew fired as the engaged side rolled down, into her opponent's hull, while the British fired as the engaged side rolled up, into her enemy's rigging.  Shortly after Wasp’s main topmast had come down, Frolic’s gaff head-braces were shot away.  Now, less than ten minutes since the opening broadside and without any sail on her main mast the brig lost the ability to prevent Wasp from taking up a raking position on her larboard bow.  As the action continued, the ships closed together until Frolic’s bow struck Wasp amidship and the American gunners struck the hull of Frolic with their rammers as they reloaded.  Wasp fired a final raking broadside.
 

"USS Wasp Boarding HM Brig Frolic", c. 1815 by Thomas Birch (1779 - 1851), (public domain)
This painting is claimed to have been the property of Captain James Biddle, USN, Lieutenant of the USS Wasp.
 
At 11:52 am, just twenty-two minutes since the opening broadside, American sailors boarded the Frolic to find that all the British officers and 58 men of her crew, were wounded or dead.  The Americans had suffered 15 casualties.  Although it was acknowledged that the British crew had fought to their utmost, it was clear that the American gunnery had been far superior to that of the British.
 
Shortly after the fighting ended, both of Frolic's masts fell.  An American prize crew went aboard the Frolic and attempted to repair the rigging, but a few hours later a British ship of the line, HMS Poictiers, commanded by Captain John Beresford, came into view.  Frolic was still unmanageable, and with its damaged rigging Wasp was soon overtaken and surrendered in the face of impossible odds.  Beresford was due to join the fleet blockading the American coast, but thought it necessary to collect Frolic's convoy and take them to Bermuda, where they were forced to remain for several days until another escort could be found.  
 
The subsequent court martial honorably acquitted Whinyates, his officers and his men for the loss of the ship.  Whinyates next assumed command of Bann, a 20 gun frigate.  Frolic, recommissioned later that October with her former first officer, Lieutenant Andrew Mitchell (acting commander until confirmed 24 August 1813) in command, was one of four vessels to participate in the capture of the ship Fame on 20 July 1813.  She continued in service until broken up in November 1813. 
 
Master Commandant Jacob Jones and his crew were soon released by an exchange of prisoners.  Jones received promotion and assumed command of USS Macedonian captured from the Royal Navy on 25 October.  He later served as second in command to Commodore Isaac Chauncey on Lake Ontario.
 
Wasp briefly served in the Royal Navy, first as HMS Loup Cervier – at one point she was challenged to a duel by her sister ship, Hornet, commanded by her own former first lieutenant, James Lawrence - and later as HMS Peacock after Hornet sank Peacock.  The ex-Wasp wrecked in 1814.
 
Next: Peacock
 
Sources:
The Naval History of Great Britain by William James, 1824
History of the Navy of the United States by J. Fenimore Cooper, 1836
The Naval War of 1812 by Theodore Roosevelt, 1900
The Age of Fighting Sail by C. S. Forester, 1957
Dictionary of American Naval Fighting Ships, Dept US Navy, (online)
 
[Edited to include information from post #5]

I was considering building Caldercraft's Cruizer, did a little basic research on her on Wikipedia and found that there were 106 of these brig-rigged sloops built. I quickly realized a modeler could build any one of these vessels with only very slight modifications to the kit.
 
Many of these large Cruizer-class brig-sloops had very mundane, unremarkable careers. Others came to tragic ends through shipwreck on uncharted or incorrectly charted rocks and shoals or departed for a destination, never arrived and were presumed to be lost at sea. Several had very distinguished and brilliant careers and a few had engaged in historically significant ship-to-ship duels during the Napoleonic Wars and the War of 1812. I'm going to focus on eight1 of them that intrigued me as subjects for a model: seven1 that engaged US Navy sloops of war in the War of 1812 and one that had been modified with an innovative experimental arrangement of her armament.
 
 
HMS Raven - Launched 25 July, 1804
 
Raven​ was commissioned in August with Commander William Layman in command. Layman was a protege of Lord Nelson with whom he had served on three previous assignments. With Nelson's support he changed Raven's armament by planking over the two forward gun ports and the two transom gun ports, removed two 6 pounder chase guns and built platforms at those two locations where he mounted 68 pounder carronades on transverse (pivoting) mounts on the ship center line which gave each a field of fire of as much as 180 degrees or more. I have not been able to find the use of pivoting mounts on another vessel larger than coastal and fresh water gunboats prior to Raven in 1804. Otherwise Raven was typical of her class.
 
Length: 100 ft 2 in (gundeck),  77 ft 6 in (keel)
Beam: 30 ft 6 in
Tonnage: 384 (burthen)
Armament: 16 x 32 pounder carronades + 2 x 6 pounder chase guns (before modification)
                16 x 32 pounder carronades + 2 x 68 pounder carronades on transverse mounts (after modification)
Complement: 121
 
Raven arrived near Cadiz to join Nelson's squadron with dispatches on the evening of 29 January 1805. Layman ordered Raven hove to, took a sounding (no bottom with an 80 fathom lead), left orders with the officer of the watch that the lead be cast every half hour and went below.
 
At about midnight the officer of the watch woke Layman and reported the lights of the squadron, then returned in minutes with the news that the lights were Cadiz. Layman started the lead finding 18 fathoms shoaling to 5 fathoms as he turned Raven about.
 
Daylight found Raven close inshore with the Spanish fleet at anchor on one side and the shore batteries on Santa Catalina on the other. Layman worked Raven over the shoals but was forced to anchor after increasing winds caused the main yard to break in the slings. The winds further increased to gale force, dragging the anchors, and drove Raven onto the beach at Santa Catalina. Raven was unsalvageable and her crew was taken into custody by the Spanish.
 
While in custody, Layman made inquiries among the crew and learned that his orders for soundings to be made every bell were ignored. He also learned that the officer of the watch was in his quarters, drunk, when the lights of Cadiz were reported by the look-outs.
 
After an officer exchange, Lieutenant Layman reported his findings to Lord Nelson in Gibraltar who advised him not to blame his officers for the loss of Raven. Nelson feared that the officer of the watch would be executed for his conduct and assured Layman "You will not be censured."
 
Nelson had misjudged the situation. On 9 March 1805 Layman was severely reprimanded and lost all his seniority. He appealed his court martial but the Admiralty was not willing to overturn the court's verdict. Nelson was killed at Trafalgar before further action could be taken. Layman's only powerful friend could no longer help him. It appears that Layman had annoyed many senior officers with his outspoken advocacy for improvements to the Navy and its ships and his career was destroyed in consequence.
 
Subsequent courts martial found Layman's master negligent in not monitoring Raven's movements and in not taking regular soundings. Layman's second lieutenant, the officer of the watch, was dismissed from the service.
 
Layman remained in the service but never received promotion to captain. He committed suicide on 22 May 1826.
 
 
 
[sources: "HMS Raven (1804)" - Wikipedia and the bibliography for that article;  Dictionary of National Biography, 1885-1900;  http://aboutnelson.yuku.com/topic/808/Captain-Layman-new-thread ]
 
 
I find HMS Raven an interesting subject for a model as much for the injustice done to an energetic and intelligent young officer as for the innovation in the arrangement of her armament. Raven is also interesting for having the shortest life of any of the Cruizer class brig-sloops.2
 
I'll continue with one or more of the Cruiser-class engagements of the War of 1812 in a day or two.
 
Dave
 
Edits:  1  Increased the number by one when I realized I had overlooked one engagement that occurred after the Treaty of Ghent had been ratified 17 February 1815 in which neither combatant knew of the end of the war.
2   Added information   

You can rig all the shrouds and backstays outside the bottle but you won't be able to set the masts into a hole or tube. You can use either hinges at the bottom of the masts or use one of two variations on what I call the "divot" method. For this just drill a very shallow hole - just up to the shoulder of the point of a bit the same diameter as the mast - leaving a shallow "divot" to locate the base of the mast. The base of the mast has a matching shallow cone to fit into the divot. Glue a length of thread into a small hole drilled in the center of the mast base and pass this thread through a small hole drilled through the hull at the center of the divot to draw the base of the mast into the divot. The thread can be omitted if you don't mind guiding the mast into place with a tool from outside the bottle. I've used both variations but prefer the thread when there are deck obstructions. It is possible to rig an entire vessel outside the bottle and pull the masts out of the divots which will collapse the rigging like pulling out the poles of a pup tent. Inside the bottle, all that is required is to move the bases of the masts back into the divots. However, this method requires clear space forward of the mast locating divots to allow the mast bases to slide on the deck into position. Having some fore-and-aft stays loose will allow moving the mast bases into the divots around or over obstacles.

 

Conventionally, all of the fore-and-aft stays (six on the foremast, four on the other four) will have to be routed out the bottle - 14 to 22 total, depending on how they're rigged. Here's three sketches of what happens to the fore-and-aft stays.

 



 

A brig with three yards on each mast, other spars (spanker boom and gaff) and all rigging but the fore-and-aft stays have been omitted. There are two variations on rigging these stays. First is to have the main topmast stay (middle one on the aft mast) route through the foremast (where it becomes the forestay) and through the deck. Similarly with the main topgallant stay (the upper one) through the foremast (where it becomes the fore topmast stay) and through the bowsprit. You won't be able to glue the fore topmast stay sail to the stay, it will have to slide on that stay. The alternative is to rig the main topmast and topgallant stays more realistically by passing the stays through eyes glued to the aft side of the foremast and down through holes in the deck and out the bottle. They can be routed through the same hole as the mainstay. Of course, all the forestays start on the foremast and go out through the hull and bowsprit in this variation.

 



 

Here we have the two variations on masts. The upper has the bases of the masts fixed in place by hinges. The stays are all the same length as those on the first sketch. Notice how much more line will be needed in order for the masts to fold down. If the stay continues through the foremast then the shortages are added together and it also shows why many staysails can't be glued to the stays when continuous stays are used.

The lower sketch has the mast bases loose. It seems possible to attach the stays at both ends to the mast and deck as shown but I would plan for the stays going through the bowsprit being control lines. On a five-master, the main mast stay(s) going through the deck may need to be loose as well. This could cut the number of stays out your bottle down to six or eight, maybe ten. I've never tried the divot method (with none of the stays being control lines - re-erecting a tent with only the tent poles) on more than two masts. I've learned that Murphy takes special interest in ship bottling and I prefer having options when - not if - something doesn't go as planned.

 

If you're intending to rig the shrouds and backstays loose and draw them with the pull of one string, it would depend on 150 tied and glued knots not failing. You would need to glue off all of those threads individually inside the bottle to make sure the standing rigging doesn't go slack if any of those knots fail with time.

 

Depending on how complete you intend to rig Preussen, I see eight or ten control lines in the fore-and-aft stays and two control lines for the spanker boom. Braces, yard halliards, topping lifts, clew lines, bunt lines, leech lines, reef tackles, etc. can be rigged outside the bottle and won't need adjustment inside the bottle, with a few exceptions such as tacks (and those are easy in the bottle but rarely done). I don't see any point in doing up-hauls, down-hauls and both the sheets on all the stay sails (and much of the listed running rigging) on a model of Preussen that isn't much longer than a pen. You're going to have a problem keeping the diameter of the rigging to scale; simplifying the rigging somewhat will help balance over-size lines. Even the finest fly tie thread is grossly out of scale for stay sail lines and many other small lines.

 

You can rig all the shrouds and backstays outside the bottle but you won't be able to set the masts into a hole or tube. You can use either hinges at the bottom of the masts or use one of two variations on what I call the "divot" method. For this just drill a very shallow hole - just up to the shoulder of the point of a bit the same diameter as the mast - leaving a shallow "divot" to locate the base of the mast. The base of the mast has a matching shallow cone to fit into the divot. Glue a length of thread into a small hole drilled in the center of the mast base and pass this thread through a small hole drilled through the hull at the center of the divot to draw the base of the mast into the divot. The thread can be omitted if you don't mind guiding the mast into place with a tool from outside the bottle. I've used both variations but prefer the thread when there are deck obstructions. It is possible to rig an entire vessel outside the bottle and pull the masts out of the divots which will collapse the rigging like pulling out the poles of a pup tent. Inside the bottle, all that is required is to move the bases of the masts back into the divots. However, this method requires clear space forward of the mast locating divots to allow the mast bases to slide on the deck into position. Having some fore-and-aft stays loose will allow moving the mast bases into the divots around or over obstacles.

 

Conventionally, all of the fore-and-aft stays (six on the foremast, four on the other four) will have to be routed out the bottle - 14 to 22 total, depending on how they're rigged. Here's three sketches of what happens to the fore-and-aft stays.

 



 

A brig with three yards on each mast, other spars (spanker boom and gaff) and all rigging but the fore-and-aft stays have been omitted. There are two variations on rigging these stays. First is to have the main topmast stay (middle one on the aft mast) route through the foremast (where it becomes the forestay) and through the deck. Similarly with the main topgallant stay (the upper one) through the foremast (where it becomes the fore topmast stay) and through the bowsprit. You won't be able to glue the fore topmast stay sail to the stay, it will have to slide on that stay. The alternative is to rig the main topmast and topgallant stays more realistically by passing the stays through eyes glued to the aft side of the foremast and down through holes in the deck and out the bottle. They can be routed through the same hole as the mainstay. Of course, all the forestays start on the foremast and go out through the hull and bowsprit in this variation.

 



 

Here we have the two variations on masts. The upper has the bases of the masts fixed in place by hinges. The stays are all the same length as those on the first sketch. Notice how much more line will be needed in order for the masts to fold down. If the stay continues through the foremast then the shortages are added together and it also shows why many staysails can't be glued to the stays when continuous stays are used.

The lower sketch has the mast bases loose. It seems possible to attach the stays at both ends to the mast and deck as shown but I would plan for the stays going through the bowsprit being control lines. On a five-master, the main mast stay(s) going through the deck may need to be loose as well. This could cut the number of stays out your bottle down to six or eight, maybe ten. I've never tried the divot method (with none of the stays being control lines - re-erecting a tent with only the tent poles) on more than two masts. I've learned that Murphy takes special interest in ship bottling and I prefer having options when - not if - something doesn't go as planned.

 

If you're intending to rig the shrouds and backstays loose and draw them with the pull of one string, it would depend on 150 tied and glued knots not failing. You would need to glue off all of those threads individually inside the bottle to make sure the standing rigging doesn't go slack if any of those knots fail with time.

 

Depending on how complete you intend to rig Preussen, I see eight or ten control lines in the fore-and-aft stays and two control lines for the spanker boom. Braces, yard halliards, topping lifts, clew lines, bunt lines, leech lines, reef tackles, etc. can be rigged outside the bottle and won't need adjustment inside the bottle, with a few exceptions such as tacks (and those are easy in the bottle but rarely done). I don't see any point in doing up-hauls, down-hauls and both the sheets on all the stay sails (and much of the listed running rigging) on a model of Preussen that isn't much longer than a pen. You're going to have a problem keeping the diameter of the rigging to scale; simplifying the rigging somewhat will help balance over-size lines. Even the finest fly tie thread is grossly out of scale for stay sail lines and many other small lines.

 

You can rig all the shrouds and backstays outside the bottle but you won't be able to set the masts into a hole or tube. You can use either hinges at the bottom of the masts or use one of two variations on what I call the "divot" method. For this just drill a very shallow hole - just up to the shoulder of the point of a bit the same diameter as the mast - leaving a shallow "divot" to locate the base of the mast. The base of the mast has a matching shallow cone to fit into the divot. Glue a length of thread into a small hole drilled in the center of the mast base and pass this thread through a small hole drilled through the hull at the center of the divot to draw the base of the mast into the divot. The thread can be omitted if you don't mind guiding the mast into place with a tool from outside the bottle. I've used both variations but prefer the thread when there are deck obstructions. It is possible to rig an entire vessel outside the bottle and pull the masts out of the divots which will collapse the rigging like pulling out the poles of a pup tent. Inside the bottle, all that is required is to move the bases of the masts back into the divots. However, this method requires clear space forward of the mast locating divots to allow the mast bases to slide on the deck into position. Having some fore-and-aft stays loose will allow moving the mast bases into the divots around or over obstacles.

 

Conventionally, all of the fore-and-aft stays (six on the foremast, four on the other four) will have to be routed out the bottle - 14 to 22 total, depending on how they're rigged. Here's three sketches of what happens to the fore-and-aft stays.

 



 

A brig with three yards on each mast, other spars (spanker boom and gaff) and all rigging but the fore-and-aft stays have been omitted. There are two variations on rigging these stays. First is to have the main topmast stay (middle one on the aft mast) route through the foremast (where it becomes the forestay) and through the deck. Similarly with the main topgallant stay (the upper one) through the foremast (where it becomes the fore topmast stay) and through the bowsprit. You won't be able to glue the fore topmast stay sail to the stay, it will have to slide on that stay. The alternative is to rig the main topmast and topgallant stays more realistically by passing the stays through eyes glued to the aft side of the foremast and down through holes in the deck and out the bottle. They can be routed through the same hole as the mainstay. Of course, all the forestays start on the foremast and go out through the hull and bowsprit in this variation.

 



 

Here we have the two variations on masts. The upper has the bases of the masts fixed in place by hinges. The stays are all the same length as those on the first sketch. Notice how much more line will be needed in order for the masts to fold down. If the stay continues through the foremast then the shortages are added together and it also shows why many staysails can't be glued to the stays when continuous stays are used.

The lower sketch has the mast bases loose. It seems possible to attach the stays at both ends to the mast and deck as shown but I would plan for the stays going through the bowsprit being control lines. On a five-master, the main mast stay(s) going through the deck may need to be loose as well. This could cut the number of stays out your bottle down to six or eight, maybe ten. I've never tried the divot method (with none of the stays being control lines - re-erecting a tent with only the tent poles) on more than two masts. I've learned that Murphy takes special interest in ship bottling and I prefer having options when - not if - something doesn't go as planned.

 

If you're intending to rig the shrouds and backstays loose and draw them with the pull of one string, it would depend on 150 tied and glued knots not failing. You would need to glue off all of those threads individually inside the bottle to make sure the standing rigging doesn't go slack if any of those knots fail with time.

 

Depending on how complete you intend to rig Preussen, I see eight or ten control lines in the fore-and-aft stays and two control lines for the spanker boom. Braces, yard halliards, topping lifts, clew lines, bunt lines, leech lines, reef tackles, etc. can be rigged outside the bottle and won't need adjustment inside the bottle, with a few exceptions such as tacks (and those are easy in the bottle but rarely done). I don't see any point in doing up-hauls, down-hauls and both the sheets on all the stay sails (and much of the listed running rigging) on a model of Preussen that isn't much longer than a pen. You're going to have a problem keeping the diameter of the rigging to scale; simplifying the rigging somewhat will help balance over-size lines. Even the finest fly tie thread is grossly out of scale for stay sail lines and many other small lines.

 

You can rig all the shrouds and backstays outside the bottle but you won't be able to set the masts into a hole or tube. You can use either hinges at the bottom of the masts or use one of two variations on what I call the "divot" method. For this just drill a very shallow hole - just up to the shoulder of the point of a bit the same diameter as the mast - leaving a shallow "divot" to locate the base of the mast. The base of the mast has a matching shallow cone to fit into the divot. Glue a length of thread into a small hole drilled in the center of the mast base and pass this thread through a small hole drilled through the hull at the center of the divot to draw the base of the mast into the divot. The thread can be omitted if you don't mind guiding the mast into place with a tool from outside the bottle. I've used both variations but prefer the thread when there are deck obstructions. It is possible to rig an entire vessel outside the bottle and pull the masts out of the divots which will collapse the rigging like pulling out the poles of a pup tent. Inside the bottle, all that is required is to move the bases of the masts back into the divots. However, this method requires clear space forward of the mast locating divots to allow the mast bases to slide on the deck into position. Having some fore-and-aft stays loose will allow moving the mast bases into the divots around or over obstacles.

 

Conventionally, all of the fore-and-aft stays (six on the foremast, four on the other four) will have to be routed out the bottle - 14 to 22 total, depending on how they're rigged. Here's three sketches of what happens to the fore-and-aft stays.

 



 

A brig with three yards on each mast, other spars (spanker boom and gaff) and all rigging but the fore-and-aft stays have been omitted. There are two variations on rigging these stays. First is to have the main topmast stay (middle one on the aft mast) route through the foremast (where it becomes the forestay) and through the deck. Similarly with the main topgallant stay (the upper one) through the foremast (where it becomes the fore topmast stay) and through the bowsprit. You won't be able to glue the fore topmast stay sail to the stay, it will have to slide on that stay. The alternative is to rig the main topmast and topgallant stays more realistically by passing the stays through eyes glued to the aft side of the foremast and down through holes in the deck and out the bottle. They can be routed through the same hole as the mainstay. Of course, all the forestays start on the foremast and go out through the hull and bowsprit in this variation.

 



 

Here we have the two variations on masts. The upper has the bases of the masts fixed in place by hinges. The stays are all the same length as those on the first sketch. Notice how much more line will be needed in order for the masts to fold down. If the stay continues through the foremast then the shortages are added together and it also shows why many staysails can't be glued to the stays when continuous stays are used.

The lower sketch has the mast bases loose. It seems possible to attach the stays at both ends to the mast and deck as shown but I would plan for the stays going through the bowsprit being control lines. On a five-master, the main mast stay(s) going through the deck may need to be loose as well. This could cut the number of stays out your bottle down to six or eight, maybe ten. I've never tried the divot method (with none of the stays being control lines - re-erecting a tent with only the tent poles) on more than two masts. I've learned that Murphy takes special interest in ship bottling and I prefer having options when - not if - something doesn't go as planned.

 

If you're intending to rig the shrouds and backstays loose and draw them with the pull of one string, it would depend on 150 tied and glued knots not failing. You would need to glue off all of those threads individually inside the bottle to make sure the standing rigging doesn't go slack if any of those knots fail with time.

 

Depending on how complete you intend to rig Preussen, I see eight or ten control lines in the fore-and-aft stays and two control lines for the spanker boom. Braces, yard halliards, topping lifts, clew lines, bunt lines, leech lines, reef tackles, etc. can be rigged outside the bottle and won't need adjustment inside the bottle, with a few exceptions such as tacks (and those are easy in the bottle but rarely done). I don't see any point in doing up-hauls, down-hauls and both the sheets on all the stay sails (and much of the listed running rigging) on a model of Preussen that isn't much longer than a pen. You're going to have a problem keeping the diameter of the rigging to scale; simplifying the rigging somewhat will help balance over-size lines. Even the finest fly tie thread is grossly out of scale for stay sail lines and many other small lines.

 

You can rig all the shrouds and backstays outside the bottle but you won't be able to set the masts into a hole or tube. You can use either hinges at the bottom of the masts or use one of two variations on what I call the "divot" method. For this just drill a very shallow hole - just up to the shoulder of the point of a bit the same diameter as the mast - leaving a shallow "divot" to locate the base of the mast. The base of the mast has a matching shallow cone to fit into the divot. Glue a length of thread into a small hole drilled in the center of the mast base and pass this thread through a small hole drilled through the hull at the center of the divot to draw the base of the mast into the divot. The thread can be omitted if you don't mind guiding the mast into place with a tool from outside the bottle. I've used both variations but prefer the thread when there are deck obstructions. It is possible to rig an entire vessel outside the bottle and pull the masts out of the divots which will collapse the rigging like pulling out the poles of a pup tent. Inside the bottle, all that is required is to move the bases of the masts back into the divots. However, this method requires clear space forward of the mast locating divots to allow the mast bases to slide on the deck into position. Having some fore-and-aft stays loose will allow moving the mast bases into the divots around or over obstacles.

 

Conventionally, all of the fore-and-aft stays (six on the foremast, four on the other four) will have to be routed out the bottle - 14 to 22 total, depending on how they're rigged. Here's three sketches of what happens to the fore-and-aft stays.

 



 

A brig with three yards on each mast, other spars (spanker boom and gaff) and all rigging but the fore-and-aft stays have been omitted. There are two variations on rigging these stays. First is to have the main topmast stay (middle one on the aft mast) route through the foremast (where it becomes the forestay) and through the deck. Similarly with the main topgallant stay (the upper one) through the foremast (where it becomes the fore topmast stay) and through the bowsprit. You won't be able to glue the fore topmast stay sail to the stay, it will have to slide on that stay. The alternative is to rig the main topmast and topgallant stays more realistically by passing the stays through eyes glued to the aft side of the foremast and down through holes in the deck and out the bottle. They can be routed through the same hole as the mainstay. Of course, all the forestays start on the foremast and go out through the hull and bowsprit in this variation.

 



 

Here we have the two variations on masts. The upper has the bases of the masts fixed in place by hinges. The stays are all the same length as those on the first sketch. Notice how much more line will be needed in order for the masts to fold down. If the stay continues through the foremast then the shortages are added together and it also shows why many staysails can't be glued to the stays when continuous stays are used.

The lower sketch has the mast bases loose. It seems possible to attach the stays at both ends to the mast and deck as shown but I would plan for the stays going through the bowsprit being control lines. On a five-master, the main mast stay(s) going through the deck may need to be loose as well. This could cut the number of stays out your bottle down to six or eight, maybe ten. I've never tried the divot method (with none of the stays being control lines - re-erecting a tent with only the tent poles) on more than two masts. I've learned that Murphy takes special interest in ship bottling and I prefer having options when - not if - something doesn't go as planned.

 

If you're intending to rig the shrouds and backstays loose and draw them with the pull of one string, it would depend on 150 tied and glued knots not failing. You would need to glue off all of those threads individually inside the bottle to make sure the standing rigging doesn't go slack if any of those knots fail with time.

 

Depending on how complete you intend to rig Preussen, I see eight or ten control lines in the fore-and-aft stays and two control lines for the spanker boom. Braces, yard halliards, topping lifts, clew lines, bunt lines, leech lines, reef tackles, etc. can be rigged outside the bottle and won't need adjustment inside the bottle, with a few exceptions such as tacks (and those are easy in the bottle but rarely done). I don't see any point in doing up-hauls, down-hauls and both the sheets on all the stay sails (and much of the listed running rigging) on a model of Preussen that isn't much longer than a pen. You're going to have a problem keeping the diameter of the rigging to scale; simplifying the rigging somewhat will help balance over-size lines. Even the finest fly tie thread is grossly out of scale for stay sail lines and many other small lines.

 

You can rig all the shrouds and backstays outside the bottle but you won't be able to set the masts into a hole or tube. You can use either hinges at the bottom of the masts or use one of two variations on what I call the "divot" method. For this just drill a very shallow hole - just up to the shoulder of the point of a bit the same diameter as the mast - leaving a shallow "divot" to locate the base of the mast. The base of the mast has a matching shallow cone to fit into the divot. Glue a length of thread into a small hole drilled in the center of the mast base and pass this thread through a small hole drilled through the hull at the center of the divot to draw the base of the mast into the divot. The thread can be omitted if you don't mind guiding the mast into place with a tool from outside the bottle. I've used both variations but prefer the thread when there are deck obstructions. It is possible to rig an entire vessel outside the bottle and pull the masts out of the divots which will collapse the rigging like pulling out the poles of a pup tent. Inside the bottle, all that is required is to move the bases of the masts back into the divots. However, this method requires clear space forward of the mast locating divots to allow the mast bases to slide on the deck into position. Having some fore-and-aft stays loose will allow moving the mast bases into the divots around or over obstacles.

 

Conventionally, all of the fore-and-aft stays (six on the foremast, four on the other four) will have to be routed out the bottle - 14 to 22 total, depending on how they're rigged. Here's three sketches of what happens to the fore-and-aft stays.

 



 

A brig with three yards on each mast, other spars (spanker boom and gaff) and all rigging but the fore-and-aft stays have been omitted. There are two variations on rigging these stays. First is to have the main topmast stay (middle one on the aft mast) route through the foremast (where it becomes the forestay) and through the deck. Similarly with the main topgallant stay (the upper one) through the foremast (where it becomes the fore topmast stay) and through the bowsprit. You won't be able to glue the fore topmast stay sail to the stay, it will have to slide on that stay. The alternative is to rig the main topmast and topgallant stays more realistically by passing the stays through eyes glued to the aft side of the foremast and down through holes in the deck and out the bottle. They can be routed through the same hole as the mainstay. Of course, all the forestays start on the foremast and go out through the hull and bowsprit in this variation.

 



 

Here we have the two variations on masts. The upper has the bases of the masts fixed in place by hinges. The stays are all the same length as those on the first sketch. Notice how much more line will be needed in order for the masts to fold down. If the stay continues through the foremast then the shortages are added together and it also shows why many staysails can't be glued to the stays when continuous stays are used.

The lower sketch has the mast bases loose. It seems possible to attach the stays at both ends to the mast and deck as shown but I would plan for the stays going through the bowsprit being control lines. On a five-master, the main mast stay(s) going through the deck may need to be loose as well. This could cut the number of stays out your bottle down to six or eight, maybe ten. I've never tried the divot method (with none of the stays being control lines - re-erecting a tent with only the tent poles) on more than two masts. I've learned that Murphy takes special interest in ship bottling and I prefer having options when - not if - something doesn't go as planned.

 

If you're intending to rig the shrouds and backstays loose and draw them with the pull of one string, it would depend on 150 tied and glued knots not failing. You would need to glue off all of those threads individually inside the bottle to make sure the standing rigging doesn't go slack if any of those knots fail with time.

 

Depending on how complete you intend to rig Preussen, I see eight or ten control lines in the fore-and-aft stays and two control lines for the spanker boom. Braces, yard halliards, topping lifts, clew lines, bunt lines, leech lines, reef tackles, etc. can be rigged outside the bottle and won't need adjustment inside the bottle, with a few exceptions such as tacks (and those are easy in the bottle but rarely done). I don't see any point in doing up-hauls, down-hauls and both the sheets on all the stay sails (and much of the listed running rigging) on a model of Preussen that isn't much longer than a pen. You're going to have a problem keeping the diameter of the rigging to scale; simplifying the rigging somewhat will help balance over-size lines. Even the finest fly tie thread is grossly out of scale for stay sail lines and many other small lines.

 

You can rig all the shrouds and backstays outside the bottle but you won't be able to set the masts into a hole or tube. You can use either hinges at the bottom of the masts or use one of two variations on what I call the "divot" method. For this just drill a very shallow hole - just up to the shoulder of the point of a bit the same diameter as the mast - leaving a shallow "divot" to locate the base of the mast. The base of the mast has a matching shallow cone to fit into the divot. Glue a length of thread into a small hole drilled in the center of the mast base and pass this thread through a small hole drilled through the hull at the center of the divot to draw the base of the mast into the divot. The thread can be omitted if you don't mind guiding the mast into place with a tool from outside the bottle. I've used both variations but prefer the thread when there are deck obstructions. It is possible to rig an entire vessel outside the bottle and pull the masts out of the divots which will collapse the rigging like pulling out the poles of a pup tent. Inside the bottle, all that is required is to move the bases of the masts back into the divots. However, this method requires clear space forward of the mast locating divots to allow the mast bases to slide on the deck into position. Having some fore-and-aft stays loose will allow moving the mast bases into the divots around or over obstacles.

 

Conventionally, all of the fore-and-aft stays (six on the foremast, four on the other four) will have to be routed out the bottle - 14 to 22 total, depending on how they're rigged. Here's three sketches of what happens to the fore-and-aft stays.

 



 

A brig with three yards on each mast, other spars (spanker boom and gaff) and all rigging but the fore-and-aft stays have been omitted. There are two variations on rigging these stays. First is to have the main topmast stay (middle one on the aft mast) route through the foremast (where it becomes the forestay) and through the deck. Similarly with the main topgallant stay (the upper one) through the foremast (where it becomes the fore topmast stay) and through the bowsprit. You won't be able to glue the fore topmast stay sail to the stay, it will have to slide on that stay. The alternative is to rig the main topmast and topgallant stays more realistically by passing the stays through eyes glued to the aft side of the foremast and down through holes in the deck and out the bottle. They can be routed through the same hole as the mainstay. Of course, all the forestays start on the foremast and go out through the hull and bowsprit in this variation.

 



 

Here we have the two variations on masts. The upper has the bases of the masts fixed in place by hinges. The stays are all the same length as those on the first sketch. Notice how much more line will be needed in order for the masts to fold down. If the stay continues through the foremast then the shortages are added together and it also shows why many staysails can't be glued to the stays when continuous stays are used.

The lower sketch has the mast bases loose. It seems possible to attach the stays at both ends to the mast and deck as shown but I would plan for the stays going through the bowsprit being control lines. On a five-master, the main mast stay(s) going through the deck may need to be loose as well. This could cut the number of stays out your bottle down to six or eight, maybe ten. I've never tried the divot method (with none of the stays being control lines - re-erecting a tent with only the tent poles) on more than two masts. I've learned that Murphy takes special interest in ship bottling and I prefer having options when - not if - something doesn't go as planned.

 

If you're intending to rig the shrouds and backstays loose and draw them with the pull of one string, it would depend on 150 tied and glued knots not failing. You would need to glue off all of those threads individually inside the bottle to make sure the standing rigging doesn't go slack if any of those knots fail with time.

 

Depending on how complete you intend to rig Preussen, I see eight or ten control lines in the fore-and-aft stays and two control lines for the spanker boom. Braces, yard halliards, topping lifts, clew lines, bunt lines, leech lines, reef tackles, etc. can be rigged outside the bottle and won't need adjustment inside the bottle, with a few exceptions such as tacks (and those are easy in the bottle but rarely done). I don't see any point in doing up-hauls, down-hauls and both the sheets on all the stay sails (and much of the listed running rigging) on a model of Preussen that isn't much longer than a pen. You're going to have a problem keeping the diameter of the rigging to scale; simplifying the rigging somewhat will help balance over-size lines. Even the finest fly tie thread is grossly out of scale for stay sail lines and many other small lines.

 

I received the Micro-Mark Pro-Etch Kit and set out on the learning curve - which is rather steep to successfully make usable photo-etch parts on the first try. It took me three.

 

After ordering and waiting for delivery, I set about drawing in my drawing program the etched letters I wanted on two brass discs - one as a seal for the bottle and one on the display base. Keeping it simple, I planned to remove lettering on one side of the discs that I would later fill with paint, black letters on the brass discs. When the kit arrived I read the instruction book multiple times and identified all the tools and materials in the kit.

 

Following the instructions, I made the masks for both sides of a disc and printed them on the backside of the mask transparency film. Follow the instructions carefully. The black areas of the mask are the areas that need to be removed from the metal and this mask will be printed backwards (flipped horizontally) so that the print is on the backside of the film. After the ink is dry the two masks are perfectly aligned, print side to print side and taped together.

 



The print side of the mask transparency. The face side of the disc with reversed

lettering and the back side with interruptions in the circle so that the disc will stay

partially attached to the square of base metal. The black is what will be removed,

half-way through from both sides with most of the edge all the way through.

 

With directions in hand I cut two 2.5 inch / 64 mm squares of .005 inch /0.13 mm thick brass sheet. Before I opened the package of photo-resist film I set up a darkened work area lit by a single yellow "bug" bulb, then opened it, removed the resist and cut two squares, put them in an envelope lined with black paper, and returned the photo-resist film to its package and sealed it shut. This film hardens in UV light. I prepared a brass square by wet sanding each side of the square with a provided 3200 grit sanding pad until very shiny and so that the water sheeted across the square. I pulled one piece of the resist from the envelope, peeled off the inside cover film and, like applying a decal, attempted to lay the resist film on the wetted square, get it aligned to the edges of the square and adhered to the square without bubbles of air or water between the film and the brass. This turned out to be rather difficult and I had problems with it. On my second through fourth tries I submerged the brass square in just enough water to cover and applied the resist film through the water. (An old school decal application trick.) I did the same to the back side.

 

While doing this I had the Pro-Etch laminater plugged in and warmed up. I cut two squares of carrier sheet (card stock with one side treated so that it is glossy and smooth) slightly larger than the brass squares. I made a sandwich of the photo-resist covered brass square with the two squares of carrier, glossy side to the photo-resist and ran it through the laminater twice, flipped over and turned 90 degrees for the second pass and let it cool in a black envelope.

 

Next the cooled, laminated brass square (carrier sheets set aside) is slipped between the two masks and centered, then placed in the center of one of the Plexiglas squares provided, the other Plexiglas square placed on top and clamps applied at the four sides. All of this has been done with minimal exposure to UV light, just the yellow "bug" bulb - a suggestion in the directions.

 

Again per the instructions I exposed each side of this sandwich to full sun at local noon for 20 seconds. The UV light hardened and turned the photo-resist in the areas not masked a deep blue from its original light blue. I disassembled the sandwich and returned the brass square to a black envelope while I set up for the next step and put away what I wouldn't need right away.

 

I prepared a solution of sodium hydroxide and water per the instructions, removed the outer protective layer of the photo-resist film from both sides and submerged the brass square in this solution. This chemical reacts with the masked and un-hardened photo-resist film, softening it so that it will brush away. This is the most important part of the process, if the film is not completely removed from the areas to be chemically etched it won't etch properly. This is where I messed up in my first two tries; for the third and fourth tries I used my 2.75X Opti-Visor and inspected and brushed with the solution and inspected and rinsed and brushed some more until I was certain that every bit of resist was removed from the areas that needed to be etched. I made use of a hand held magnifying glass with the Opti-Visor to make sure every bit of un-exposed resist film was gone. 

 



The second brass disc with blue photo-resist and bright brass showing through the

areas that will be etched. I thought this was good enough but it was not. Many areas

did not etch properly, especially from the backside, due to my lack of diligence.

 

Paying close attention to the instructions, I set up the equipment for the actual photo-etching. I had to supply a rinse bucket and a smaller rinse bowl, both filled with water. I warmed the bottle of ferric chloride in hot water running from the tap before filling the etching tank. I plugged in the aerator (to circulate the etching solution) and submerged the brass square. I set a 5 minute timer.

 



Etching in process. There's a clamp on the hose to prevent the etching solution from

flowing back into the pump plus the pump is placed on two pieces of foam packaging

to raise it above the solution level.

 

After five minutes, I removed the brass square from the etching tank (turned off the aerator and pinched shut the hose clamp - the fumes must be assumed to be nasty) rinsed and re-rinsed to inspect the progress. Most of the double side etching at the edge of the disc was cut through, so I turned the brass square 180 degrees in the clamp, returned it to the solution (turned on the aerator and released the clamp) and waited three minutes. Upon inspection, it was done and I rinsed it in hot tap water before setting it aside and cleaning up.

 

Now, to see the results. I poured out just enough of the sodium hydroxide (undiluted this time) into one of the trays provided to cover the brass square. Full strength this chemical removes the photo-resist from the brass with a little help with a brush. When cleaned of the resist the brass was rinsed in hot water from the tap and set aside.

 



Here's my first try with some practice with black enamel to fill in the letters. There are

several places where the photo-resist did not adhere and laminate properly as a result

of my difficulty with getting the resist in place as directed and etching solution got into

them from an edge exposed to etching solution. I had no more problem with this using

the submerged technique of applying the photo-resist film. Many places in the lettering

have incomplete depth because I didn't get all the masked film removed the way I should

have. Micro-Mark was right when they said this was the most important step.

 



Third and fourth tries, both appear perfect. The lettering has not been filled with enamel

yet, just the result of better photographic technique learned since the photo of the first

disc. I didn't even bother stripping the second attempt since I could see that I had not

removed all the masked and un-hardened photo-resist film. The discs are 1.73 inch / 44

mm in diameter.

 

I am very pleased with the Micro-Mark Pro-Etch Kit. It has everything needed except for a yellow "bug" bulb and the two rinse buckets I provided. I bought a better pair of rubber gloves than the single use, throw away gloves supplied in the kit for my second session when I made the last two discs. I also added a small in-line on/off switch to the aerator electric cord so I would not have to crawl under my work bench to unplug it when I needed to turn it off.

 

The process does have a steep learning curve, a mistake made anywhere in the process will affect the results. READ AND STUDY THE INSTRUCTIONS and MAKE SURE YOU UNDERSTAND EACH STEP.

 

I hope my experience helps others learn from my mistakes.

 

Dave

Granted; just like everything else on sailing vessels, there was an evolution, but that formula works well for late 18th century through 20th century wooden blocks for hemp rope. My project is a Napoleonic era warship.

Granted; just like everything else on sailing vessels, there was an evolution, but that formula works well for late 18th century through 20th century wooden blocks for hemp rope. My project is a Napoleonic era warship.

Dave,
 
According to Lees (The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War), the diameter of the deadeyes were 1.5 times the circumference of the stay or shroud and their thickness slightly more than half the diameter.
 
John

Well as usual life gets in the way with modeling however I managed to get a few days into the man cave to proceed. Steady as she goes the Captain said or... was it Jack Sparrow!
 
After a lot of research, and prayer, things just fell into place regarding my seas technique. I decided Artist's Loft Academic Level 1 Acrylic Modeling Paste was the way to go and it proved correct. I wrapped the hull in some cellophane and sculpted the seas around the hull being carefull not to build it up too high as the individual pieces have to pass through the bottle neck.
 
The first photo shows a little styrofoam where the keel/rudder will go. It was hard to carve an exact slot so... I carved it out, then spaced the styro accordingly and pasted.
 

 
Next photo shows the appropriate tools. My hobbying has really improved since I purchased a strop to keep everything sharp!
 

 
Next shot shows the hull in place and the sculpting with the paste. I can't say enough about the modeling paste. When dry you can even drill it out. Amazing stuff!
 

 
Next photo shows the silhouette of the Preussen in the seas.
 

 
Next three photo's show the magnets and corresponding plates installed to hold it all together. I really lucked out here as the strength is just perfect to allow alignment and manipulation inside of the bottle. All pieces were carefully cut apart with a razor blade after drying time.
 

 

 

 
The next two pictures show the hull in the seas and one coat of Winsor Newton Galeria Acrylic Ultramarine Blue.
 

 

 
From here some strategic coloring with some oil paints to give the ocean some depth, blend, and radience. Also I have to be aware that once the seas are inside the bottle and glued in place with the bottom half of hull installed; I'll have to backfill the seams and touch up the paint and blend it in accordingly.
 
Then some modeling paste to froth up some spray right by the hull; a good coat of Artist's Loft Academic Level 1 Gloss Gel Medium to seal, then some Woodland Scenic's liquid water just beside the hull to show some transparency.
 
Next up I have to finish the lower half of the hull with as much detail as my heart desires and figure out how to route all of the strings. Lot's of work ahead 'but hey'.... it's just a hobby!
 
Jeff
 
 

Donald McNarry in Shipbuilding in Miniature described the process I used for those rails using French polish as a glue for both thread and wire rails. It took me some time to learn that French polish is shellac flakes dissolved in wood alcohol - true shellac, not the substitutes available today. True shellac is made from the carapaces (shells) of a specific species of beetle and is almost unavailable today and is only used in very high end antique furniture restoration by the few artisans who know how to use it and are willing to put in the extensive labor required. Also, the wood alcohol fumes are dangerous and detrimental to health.
 
As tedious as it may seem, I don't think there is any shortcut for making sure every intersection is glued. McNarry specifically mentions this in his description. I planned to try several substitutes for the French polish but didn't get to them.
 
I haven't done much to Esmeralda - partly because medications from the doctor made my hands "vibrate", partly because the wire on the jig sagged (probably the result of repeated temperature changes during the time the doctor and I sorted out the vibration problem) and partly because I felt somewhat overwhelmed by the project itself and discouraged by my shakiness. The problem has been relieved by changing my meds and improving my diet. I found that the shakes can come from a potassium deficiency and now I eat a banana every day or two which seems to help more than the med change, but I'm now back to normal and working on both of my SiB projects.
 
I will report on my progress on Esmeralda soon (port lights are done). I have never left a project unfinished and I won't have one now. The only unfinished project I'll ever have is the one I'm working on when I die.

Time to post some progress.
 
I'm basically focusing on deck details near and on the lower bridge just forward of the main mast.
 

The flying bridge with radar units on roof and the boat with davits and containers below the boat.
 
I drew the components I needed for the flying bridge on the computer and printed them out on card stock. 
 

Flying bridge parts with X-acto blade for size reference. Yes, I freaked out seeing
them life size and wondering how I was going to cut out all those windows (22).
 

But I surprised myself and all went well. Mostly complete flying bridge.
 
I made the radar cage from 40 gauge (.0035 inch / 0.09 mm) wire with top and bottom made from a narrow strip and two discs of card stock. Other radar is a bug pin with the head built up with a couple dips in gesso. The roof of the lower bridge has two holes drilled in it to receive the two pins which will be cut shorter later - they are much too useful now as handles. Some detailing remains.
 
I worked on the davits, boats and containers as single assemblies on bases from paper. This is essentially the same as on the ship (except the base is a thick steel plate) and works out well for me.
 

Six containers, two davits and a boat.
 
The containers were made from basswood sanded to diameter then cut off to length. I made lots so I could use those that were closest in length, even a couple thousandths difference in length at this size is noticeable. Davits and cradles made from 30 gauge wire. Boats were made the same as the others made earlier. The boats need thwarts, oars, rudders and tillers.
 
These three assemblies will be glued to their places after the ship is in the bottle. At least that's the plan. I may be able to install the boat & davits assemblies before but I won't know until later - it seems better to plan for the worst case at this point. 
 

I also made two of these racks with three more containers each.
I've assumed these containers hold inflatable life rafts - sixteen total.
 

One of three fire hose reels on deck.
 
Here's the group photo including the motor launch at far right which is now just a 
painted hull needing floor boards, seating, motor compartment, tiller and rudder.
 

 
 
Dave

Time to post some progress.
 
I'm basically focusing on deck details near and on the lower bridge just forward of the main mast.
 

The flying bridge with radar units on roof and the boat with davits and containers below the boat.
 
I drew the components I needed for the flying bridge on the computer and printed them out on card stock. 
 

Flying bridge parts with X-acto blade for size reference. Yes, I freaked out seeing
them life size and wondering how I was going to cut out all those windows (22).
 

But I surprised myself and all went well. Mostly complete flying bridge.
 
I made the radar cage from 40 gauge (.0035 inch / 0.09 mm) wire with top and bottom made from a narrow strip and two discs of card stock. Other radar is a bug pin with the head built up with a couple dips in gesso. The roof of the lower bridge has two holes drilled in it to receive the two pins which will be cut shorter later - they are much too useful now as handles. Some detailing remains.
 
I worked on the davits, boats and containers as single assemblies on bases from paper. This is essentially the same as on the ship (except the base is a thick steel plate) and works out well for me.
 

Six containers, two davits and a boat.
 
The containers were made from basswood sanded to diameter then cut off to length. I made lots so I could use those that were closest in length, even a couple thousandths difference in length at this size is noticeable. Davits and cradles made from 30 gauge wire. Boats were made the same as the others made earlier. The boats need thwarts, oars, rudders and tillers.
 
These three assemblies will be glued to their places after the ship is in the bottle. At least that's the plan. I may be able to install the boat & davits assemblies before but I won't know until later - it seems better to plan for the worst case at this point. 
 

I also made two of these racks with three more containers each.
I've assumed these containers hold inflatable life rafts - sixteen total.
 

One of three fire hose reels on deck.
 
Here's the group photo including the motor launch at far right which is now just a 
painted hull needing floor boards, seating, motor compartment, tiller and rudder.
 

 
 
Dave

Time to post some progress.
 
I'm basically focusing on deck details near and on the lower bridge just forward of the main mast.
 

The flying bridge with radar units on roof and the boat with davits and containers below the boat.
 
I drew the components I needed for the flying bridge on the computer and printed them out on card stock. 
 

Flying bridge parts with X-acto blade for size reference. Yes, I freaked out seeing
them life size and wondering how I was going to cut out all those windows (22).
 

But I surprised myself and all went well. Mostly complete flying bridge.
 
I made the radar cage from 40 gauge (.0035 inch / 0.09 mm) wire with top and bottom made from a narrow strip and two discs of card stock. Other radar is a bug pin with the head built up with a couple dips in gesso. The roof of the lower bridge has two holes drilled in it to receive the two pins which will be cut shorter later - they are much too useful now as handles. Some detailing remains.
 
I worked on the davits, boats and containers as single assemblies on bases from paper. This is essentially the same as on the ship (except the base is a thick steel plate) and works out well for me.
 

Six containers, two davits and a boat.
 
The containers were made from basswood sanded to diameter then cut off to length. I made lots so I could use those that were closest in length, even a couple thousandths difference in length at this size is noticeable. Davits and cradles made from 30 gauge wire. Boats were made the same as the others made earlier. The boats need thwarts, oars, rudders and tillers.
 
These three assemblies will be glued to their places after the ship is in the bottle. At least that's the plan. I may be able to install the boat & davits assemblies before but I won't know until later - it seems better to plan for the worst case at this point. 
 

I also made two of these racks with three more containers each.
I've assumed these containers hold inflatable life rafts - sixteen total.
 

One of three fire hose reels on deck.
 
Here's the group photo including the motor launch at far right which is now just a 
painted hull needing floor boards, seating, motor compartment, tiller and rudder.
 

 
 
Dave

Time to post some progress.
 
I'm basically focusing on deck details near and on the lower bridge just forward of the main mast.
 

The flying bridge with radar units on roof and the boat with davits and containers below the boat.
 
I drew the components I needed for the flying bridge on the computer and printed them out on card stock. 
 

Flying bridge parts with X-acto blade for size reference. Yes, I freaked out seeing
them life size and wondering how I was going to cut out all those windows (22).
 

But I surprised myself and all went well. Mostly complete flying bridge.
 
I made the radar cage from 40 gauge (.0035 inch / 0.09 mm) wire with top and bottom made from a narrow strip and two discs of card stock. Other radar is a bug pin with the head built up with a couple dips in gesso. The roof of the lower bridge has two holes drilled in it to receive the two pins which will be cut shorter later - they are much too useful now as handles. Some detailing remains.
 
I worked on the davits, boats and containers as single assemblies on bases from paper. This is essentially the same as on the ship (except the base is a thick steel plate) and works out well for me.
 

Six containers, two davits and a boat.
 
The containers were made from basswood sanded to diameter then cut off to length. I made lots so I could use those that were closest in length, even a couple thousandths difference in length at this size is noticeable. Davits and cradles made from 30 gauge wire. Boats were made the same as the others made earlier. The boats need thwarts, oars, rudders and tillers.
 
These three assemblies will be glued to their places after the ship is in the bottle. At least that's the plan. I may be able to install the boat & davits assemblies before but I won't know until later - it seems better to plan for the worst case at this point. 
 

I also made two of these racks with three more containers each.
I've assumed these containers hold inflatable life rafts - sixteen total.
 

One of three fire hose reels on deck.
 
Here's the group photo including the motor launch at far right which is now just a 
painted hull needing floor boards, seating, motor compartment, tiller and rudder.
 

 
 
Dave

Jeff,
 
If you look closely you may notice three sizes of clothespins. Here in the States the mini clothes pins can be found at Walmart in the craft section and the small ones in the office supply section. It seems strange they are in different sections but they are.

Time to post some progress.
 
I'm basically focusing on deck details near and on the lower bridge just forward of the main mast.
 

The flying bridge with radar units on roof and the boat with davits and containers below the boat.
 
I drew the components I needed for the flying bridge on the computer and printed them out on card stock. 
 

Flying bridge parts with X-acto blade for size reference. Yes, I freaked out seeing
them life size and wondering how I was going to cut out all those windows (22).
 

But I surprised myself and all went well. Mostly complete flying bridge.
 
I made the radar cage from 40 gauge (.0035 inch / 0.09 mm) wire with top and bottom made from a narrow strip and two discs of card stock. Other radar is a bug pin with the head built up with a couple dips in gesso. The roof of the lower bridge has two holes drilled in it to receive the two pins which will be cut shorter later - they are much too useful now as handles. Some detailing remains.
 
I worked on the davits, boats and containers as single assemblies on bases from paper. This is essentially the same as on the ship (except the base is a thick steel plate) and works out well for me.
 

Six containers, two davits and a boat.
 
The containers were made from basswood sanded to diameter then cut off to length. I made lots so I could use those that were closest in length, even a couple thousandths difference in length at this size is noticeable. Davits and cradles made from 30 gauge wire. Boats were made the same as the others made earlier. The boats need thwarts, oars, rudders and tillers.
 
These three assemblies will be glued to their places after the ship is in the bottle. At least that's the plan. I may be able to install the boat & davits assemblies before but I won't know until later - it seems better to plan for the worst case at this point. 
 

I also made two of these racks with three more containers each.
I've assumed these containers hold inflatable life rafts - sixteen total.
 

One of three fire hose reels on deck.
 
Here's the group photo including the motor launch at far right which is now just a 
painted hull needing floor boards, seating, motor compartment, tiller and rudder.
 

 
 
Dave

Time to post some progress.
 
I'm basically focusing on deck details near and on the lower bridge just forward of the main mast.
 

The flying bridge with radar units on roof and the boat with davits and containers below the boat.
 
I drew the components I needed for the flying bridge on the computer and printed them out on card stock. 
 

Flying bridge parts with X-acto blade for size reference. Yes, I freaked out seeing
them life size and wondering how I was going to cut out all those windows (22).
 

But I surprised myself and all went well. Mostly complete flying bridge.
 
I made the radar cage from 40 gauge (.0035 inch / 0.09 mm) wire with top and bottom made from a narrow strip and two discs of card stock. Other radar is a bug pin with the head built up with a couple dips in gesso. The roof of the lower bridge has two holes drilled in it to receive the two pins which will be cut shorter later - they are much too useful now as handles. Some detailing remains.
 
I worked on the davits, boats and containers as single assemblies on bases from paper. This is essentially the same as on the ship (except the base is a thick steel plate) and works out well for me.
 

Six containers, two davits and a boat.
 
The containers were made from basswood sanded to diameter then cut off to length. I made lots so I could use those that were closest in length, even a couple thousandths difference in length at this size is noticeable. Davits and cradles made from 30 gauge wire. Boats were made the same as the others made earlier. The boats need thwarts, oars, rudders and tillers.
 
These three assemblies will be glued to their places after the ship is in the bottle. At least that's the plan. I may be able to install the boat & davits assemblies before but I won't know until later - it seems better to plan for the worst case at this point. 
 

I also made two of these racks with three more containers each.
I've assumed these containers hold inflatable life rafts - sixteen total.
 

One of three fire hose reels on deck.
 
Here's the group photo including the motor launch at far right which is now just a 
painted hull needing floor boards, seating, motor compartment, tiller and rudder.
 

 
 
Dave

Many thanks, Dave. Your answer is what I expected, skill and effort have been your main tools.
 
Igor, your drawings are going to be well appreciated.