olliechristo

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Leanne,, I"m glad i can return something, for all the help i have had is what has made this build what it is.. The whole MSW forum is a godsend..
 
I look forward to seeing your build log surface
 
John thanks for the compliments, i have a tendency towards wanting perfection, which can be a downfall at times, i came to the conclusion that ratlines were probably not perfect anyway..
 
Anyway the second time they have come up neater, although i did redo a few to get it right, too much sag on some.. also had a flame up and two rungs burnt out that was exciting/scary..  one has gotta be quick with the flame if burning fuzz..
 
When i stand back and look at it all, the ratlines and shrouds are really making it look close to done..      Onto back stays next..  steady as she goes, as i want to soak up the last parts of this marvelous journey..   Ollie
 
 

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Ok, rats are done on starboard side.. reasonably happy with it, oh ok... I cant complain for a first go
 
It's not as easy as one would like and i'm sure it will go smoother on second run..  
 
I was brave enough to throw in a macro..  Black card helps find the fuzzy bits...
best if you dont use waterbased marker to mark out card, it runs when glueng.. 
 
I have a grip on the cow and clove hitch now, handy to know..   I used the principle of doing every forth run and then coming back to fill in..  Ollie
 
 

I love how much this hobby is teaching me..   So i wanted to get my front stay on, then i'm onto ratlines.. 
 
I did a few tries at getting it right.. Re did it all in the end, doesnt take long..
 
The deadeye supplied was the same as others used on shrouds but it needed drilling out as the kit said to use the same 1mm black cord to reeve it.. 
 
i drilled the holes a bit too large, the deadeye looked a bit small and i actually didnt like the black, tried a few cords till i got looking good,, hand made my first dead-eye.. wasnt hard, made it a bit larger than supplied ones...   
 
I'm taking my time now and very happy with the way she is looking..  Ollie
 

Hey Eamonn buddy, it's been too serious around here without you :-) nice you have back, good to have some time away from model at times, my girlfriend would let me build a.100 ships if I took her to see tori Amos..
. Tom you are.a wealth of knowledge and great support to keep me inspired.. that explains it, makes much more sense now.. Cheers mate...
 
So regarding the jump up to rats.. Scaled down I stand as a man 37mm high.. The taped off ruler shows this height.. Perhaps it's deceiving because she is such a small vessel.. Most are working at smaller scale? Hmm anyway I think the crew will manage..

I think I'm going to leave sheer-pole off... I have learned so much from you all.. Next build will be a breeze ;-)
 
I added top mast rope. Not sure exactly how that operates in reality. Looks like it raises the top mast out of the cap ? Any.how it's fitted as instructed.. Rat line business is next. Front and back stays... Realising blocks could be refined down more, but all good..
 
Most don't do black ratlines I gather.. I read they were lightly tarred.. Will probably go with fawn.. Regards Oliver

I have been preparing all the parts for rear stays, sanding and filing blocks and clear coating them, painting straps, eye bolts etc.
 
I have been looking at bowsprit for some time knowing it is rising too much..( sill not fitted..) Kit says to have it about 5 degrees which looks right with historical sketches..
 
I can either make groove deeper or rebuild bowsprit rail to be higher... It must be a kit error.. although it doesn't say how deep to cut into bulwark...
 
Also would it have been lashed in or a pin to hold it through uprights of railing?
 
Regards Ollie
 
 

Thanks Geoff, i got a close watch on your sloop also.. shes looking great
 
Ken, thanks for that link and input. I also like the natural timber look and use contrasts and the timbers colour to represent. I will likely go this way..
 
Thanks Karl and Johnroy. Hello from over here in the land down under!
 
Greg and Pat, I chose this AL kit after seeing both of your beautiful builds and reading good things, inspiring and great work, its a shame so much of logs were lost..  I will be lurking on your logs dont you worry
 
John, thanks as always and i will be pestering you no doubt and am due for a trip to Syd soon..
 
Alistair, yeah im coming out of hiding....  I think i got a bargain..  I will take you and Pat's advice, get some holly and check it out, sounds nice.. working with quality wood is so much nicer.
 
Steve, nice to have you here mate.. Thanks for that info, Its so good to have others who have built the same kit..     Its certainly held up well for its time shelved.. 
 
I'm mainly going to be planning for the first month and get in the rhythm of ordering gear in advance. we have no hobby shop here..
 
Warm regards to all. Ollie

Ollie ... On some cutters the bits were taller and an Iron rod was used to adjust the height of the butt of the Jib...this moved the pin rail aft to adjoin the windlass bits. But I don't think that will work here ... maybe a larger notch in the jib and a supporting bar or extra wood above the rail would work?? An idea anyway.
 
Tom
 
Another thought ... invert the jib and place a bar for more wood for support in other words place the Jib above the rail and see if that works.
I myself would draw it up to scale an check it out before cutting anything or deciding anything first!

I have been preparing all the parts for rear stays, sanding and filing blocks and clear coating them, painting straps, eye bolts etc.
 
I have been looking at bowsprit for some time knowing it is rising too much..( sill not fitted..) Kit says to have it about 5 degrees which looks right with historical sketches..
 
I can either make groove deeper or rebuild bowsprit rail to be higher... It must be a kit error.. although it doesn't say how deep to cut into bulwark...
 
Also would it have been lashed in or a pin to hold it through uprights of railing?
 
Regards Ollie
 
 

I wouldn't worry about the angle. Leave as is IMO - if you are few degrees out who will know.
 
Don't know about lashings or pins but it does feel like it needs some form of fixing. It can't have been lashed to the pin rail on the bits - way too much force against those...I don't know. Sorry not much help.

Bob,
every time I look into your Progress I have to set my mind that you are performing such accuracy in scale 1:76, absolutely clean and precise modeling, well done !
 
Nils

Fitting the woolding onto the masts, got the foremast top painted before running out of black paint.

Today I fitted the heart and collar for the main preventer stay on the foremast.
I have started making cleats, pretty fiddly because they are so small and I need about twenty four of them

Hi everyone. Although I generally like to tread the less trodden path, I can't help but want to build the famous Endeavour.. I was born and live not far from Cooktown.. This is what ship came to mind at first, way back..  But i needed a warm up kit..
 
I wanted to scratch build without caring about time, but i no longer have a shed at home, and i want to complete this one in a matter of years not decades.. i also realised that severe kit bashing is almost scratch building anyway.
 
First I decided that this is the ship i want for my second build, this could be my last until i retire..  I heard that Artesania Latina's version of this ship has fairly accurate hull lines etc... 
 
I am a bargain hunter and quite frankly I think most model ships are very expensive considering what is really provided.. And i will rebuild most of it anyway.. I just need all the vital parts..
 
So I found a ebay auction I liked the look of and won a shelved kit from the 80's I'm told...  ($160 incl postage from Florida) I was a little dubious about what it would look like in the flesh (my last cheap shelved kit wasn't much good)
 
I inspected it all today and all is well, all parts seem to be there, plastic still around planks etc...Impressed at the way its held up over the years of sitting.  And the original quality looks good.. Walnut dowells look good and other walnut profiles..
 
The saving i have made allows me to replace all the deck and hull veneers and replace any other fittings i like..
 
 
 
 
The FIRST question I had to answer..... Was the keel straight ?!?
 
Looks good, thank the lord of decent plywood, this is manufactured before laser wood cutting, most parts seem machined in some way..
I laid it down on a piece of glass and sits flat
 
 
 
I hope you all can help me with tips for wood that will suit best and learn a bunch more along the way. I hope to meet some new friends on the journey as well as the amazing folk from my HM Mermaid build.. 
 
It's a BIG model and it's going to be a BIGGGER journey!!       Ollie
 
 

Hi all,
 
Here's another project which I'll be doing at my "Holiday Caravan" (which will soon be my permanent address when I build a workshop alongside it ).
 
This uncompleted model was given to me by a guy who's father had passed away before he could finish it, and he asked me if I could do it for him as he has no modelling skills whatever and he'd like to give it to his mum in memory of his dad. How could I refuse ?
 
The old guy was a reasonably good modeller (unlike my last project on the Del Prado "Victory"), so I didn't have a real lot of things to rip off and replace before continuing on with the job. However, as his son said, he was "losing the plot" quite a bit not long before he died, and the last few things he did on this model needed a bit of reworking.
 
Here are a few "Before" pics. The planking on the 2nd deck cabin wasn't the best, and the windows all had to come off again because the wrong glue was used on them :
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
More will follow in the next post .......
 
  Danny

Thank you very much for the kind comments Patrick, Grant, Keith, Rowan Elia, Mark, Tony, Lawrence and Row .
 
Well this project is finally finished and delivered to it's owner - to say she was delighted with the result would be an understatement . I told her at the start that I'd have to charge her for any materials I had to buy, and she said that was no problem at all. Total expenses were just under $150 for such things as a bottle of Acetone, another of Turps, paint, extra timber, glue, knife blades etc. I was going to donate my labour, but she would have none of that and I received a very nice surprise when I opened the envelope with the money later that day - an extra $100 . My total labour worked out at about 80c an hour, but like I said I would have been quite happy to do it for free .
 
Here are the pics of the finished ship, with a couple of "before's" under some of them :
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Please ignore the way she's rigged - my aim was always to make this a "decoration", not a historically correct model. I only rigged the Lifts and Braces to all the yards, and threw in the Sheets and Tacks for the Fore and Main Masts to help "fill in the gaps". The rigging fulfills that aim. BTW - I know the Braces for the Main Yards should have been around the other way (i.e. toward the Mizzen Mast), but it would have left too much empty space in the middle .
 
I'm already a fair way into my next "holiday van" project - a similar situation to this project where the original builder passed away before completing his model of an Artesania Latina "King of the Mississippi" and I'm completing it for his family. Here's a LINK to it if you're interested.
 
Work will also be done on "Vulture" in the meantime .
 
  Danny

Welcome to the Endeavour build club Ollie - I am building the AL version only.  Well, I used the kit for the basic hull and threw the rest out -  the remainder is scratch based on Marquardt and other research.  I wish I had replaced the timber for the hull also =, but it was a lesson learned
 
In my battle station I used holly for the deck and it turned out very nice.  For our club's build (HMCSS Victoria) we are using birch - I''' post a photo but it may be a bit late for you noting the speed you work at   I have also bought some Vic Ash (Mountain ash is another name I think) to see how that goes in my Syren build.  For the hull, I have used Kauri pine in the Victoria build and it is wonderful to work with - it is a great colour if you wish to leave the timber natural?
 
Good luck mate; I'll follow closely.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Hi Ollie
 
I built the exact same kit about 20 years ago (pics in the completed gallery here), the box artwork on mine was exactly the same so probably a similar vintage (I still have the box). When I built mine I did minimal painting because I wanted to produce more an ornamental piece rather than an exact scale model but I also did a few modifications to make it look more realistic and more like the Endeavour than it would have if I had just used the parts supplied and followed the AL instructions. I only used the wood supplied and the final outcome was pretty good, the deck planks and hull outer planking look okay. I mostly followed the instructions as there was no other reference material available to me at the time, so there a few things that are not quite right that annoy me now - the mast tops look too chunky, the line of the main wale isn't quite right and the stern doesn't look that good. The rigging blocks are fairly rough and chunky, so I individually sanded and lacquered each one which gave them a more accurate look. Every kit has its bad points but I'm sure you can make a good model from this one.
 
Cheers
Steve

Thanks Ken, yes i decided to do it this way so I could have a go at coppering and paint.. Port side is my more historically accurate side... I prefer the natural side also... But the other side looks good too.. regads Ollie

Hi Ollie
Will look forward to your progress on this. Looks like a good buy and your skill will do a great rendering I'm sure. Think about holy for the deck maybe - see my Fly and Bob's - "rafine" 's - work on Essex. Not cheap but a great timber to work with.
 
P.S. Good to put a face with the name!

Ollie,
 
Sounds like this will make a great model!  Considering where you live, you may have to find a small piece of coral to jamb into the lower part of the hull!
 
Remember that we have the Endeavour replica here in Sydney, so if you want photos of any particular detail down the track, just yell.
 
John

I basically replaced all the wood for the hull's second layer and I wish I had done so for the deck as the supplied stuff is waxy rubbish (I am doing the exact same kit). Modelers shipyard is the go.

Hey from Michigan
Like your work, l am also looking forward to following your build
 
johnroy