Aussie048

The coin is 19.25mm (3/4")  in diameter.
 
  Danny

Hello Pat,
you are doing a very very good work, very clean.
usually I don't make any comment on the build logs, since I prefer to simply watch.
But since you, as I did in the past, are making a kit bashed Endeavour, I want to warn you about the boomkins problem.
Following the drawings of the book, I installed the boomkins, with related rigging.
Unfortunately, the rigging of the boomkin don't allows a "free" movement of the anchor.
The anchor is "trapped" between the boomkin rigging.
The final result is rather "false" if evaluated by an expert sailor.
I didn't find a good solution, since it was too late to make modifications on the boomkins, as you can see in the photos made during the model making.
Probably a different bending angle was needed or a different lenght of the boomkin.
 
So, since you are still in time, check the theoretical rigging position of the boomkins!
Beware of the boomkins! they are tricky!
 

Hi Cristiano and thanks for looking in and your 'head's up' on the boomkin rigging.  I have already done mine (haven't posted a photo yet, so I will need to have another look at this.  Had not considered that as I am nowhere near rigging the anchors yet - many thanks for that and your positive comments on the build, they are much appreciated.
 
 
That's a very nice build of yours also; I'll go back and have a good look through your log and see if I can't identify any other future pitfalls I might run into
regards
 
Pat

Finally managed to find some time to continue with my hull planking.
After doing the "easy" planks I had to begin the tapering process. 
I divided the remainder of the hull up into three sections using a planking batten as suggest in the article on MSW and this seemed to make it a bit easier.
After what seemed like 5 hours I had completed a grand total of 10 planks!
I hope I get faster at this!
Anyway, I'm pretty happy with the way its turning out.  After a good sand it should come out pretty smooth.
If its raining tomorrow, I wont be going fishing so hopefully can finish off this side of the hull, so long as the better half doesn't find a whole lot of other jobs for me.
Cheers
Rod

Finally finished and as usual took longer than expected to fix the last bits and pieces.  I used the flags as supplied as I was unable to find any alternative.  The result is disappointing as they don’t fit in with the general style of the model.  A few photos of the finished product  follow.  I plan to put a name plate on the stand (not supplied with the kit) and make a display case one day but that can wait.
 
 

Getting there.  Took me a while to get going after returning from holiday but well into it now.  Three sails rigged.  Two to go.  Two days per sail, one day for rope coils, another deck furniture, and a last for final touches.  Total 7 days.  I wish, but this is how the mind works when you get close to finishing.  Ropes hanging everywhere as loath to secure any rope until all, or most, are in position and don’t snag each other etc.

After the diversion with the coats of arms I pressed on with the rigging and sails.  I noted that there are 104 blocks on the model which sounds a lot for a smallish model but when you get involved with sails there are blocks everywhere and they are certainly time consuming.  I have now hoisted the mainsail with ropes dangling all over the place.  I have realised it is difficult to tie off any ropes before all the sails are assembled as access is very limited.   I think I can billow the sails Captain Steve without too much difficulty and I reckon they have to be billowed as straight hanging sails would not look right on this model.

Unfortunately I am about to go on a holiday o/s so this will be the last post for a couple of months.  Unlike many others I won't spend too much time thinking about what I would like to build next time but I assure you, Micahel D, it certainly won't be the Wasa!

I decided to take a break from the sail making and rigging to add a feature to the ship that I had seen on another model of the Santa Maria.  A row of coats of arms on the sides of the bow of the ship would add some interest I thought.  It so happens that I had a book on English and Scottish heraldry.  (I knew it would be useful one day!)  I colour copied some of the samples of coats of arms, reducing them in size to suit the scale of the model.  I selected examples that looked the least like English or Scottish coats of arms for obvious reasons.  I cut them out, glued them onto a 0.5mm sheet of ply before gluing them onto the model, five aside.  I then coated them with shellac which gave them a mellow tone that matched the colouring of the model.

I must say I am quite chuffed with the result.  Pity they are not Portuguese/Spanish coats of arms but if my son spots it I will bare my backside in Burke St as we say in Melbourne.

Thankyou Mark, Grant and Harry for your feedback.  A compliment or two goes a long way when working in isolation, as we do, in this hobby our ours.  I am getting a bit long in the tooth to tackle another major project but I will have to find something to fill in those spare moments.  I am looking at a paddle steamboat (no rigging!) just for a change but in no hurry yet.
I have made a nameplate for the Santa Maria which has come up pretty well.  I think I will post a log on how I made it under building techniques.
 

Photo Time.. WooHoo  (I know I know, I really spoil ye..  )
 
The Stern Post is in place, and the Hull is pretty much finished with sanding (it might get the odd gentle rub as I progress though)
 
You can see the Hawse Hole (where the Anchor Rope would go through the hull) re-enforcing I put in place, it isn't called for in the 'Plans' but I kinda figured it to be an area that would have been built up to combat wear 'n tear ! it hasn't been fully shaped & filed totally smooth yet .
 
The Wales are made from  2@  3 x 1 mm Beech lengths I had in stock, and will ultimately be painted black. The wale hasn't been shaped properly at the stern yet, but isn't too far off (possibly a little filling required at the very after-most part to blend it into the transom)
 
See I haven't been slacking off.. much..  
 
Take Care Folks
 
Eamonn
PS Still no Deck Timber.. and it was sent this day last week, fingers crossed for next week then
 
 
 
 

Greetings all
Well I have now finished the rigging of the clue lines sheets and tacks, with only the main port to thread through. The next task is the travelling guy, guy pendant and flying jiboom guy. As I have said before I have never heard of most of these things before . Anyway that should be the completion of the rigging according to the manual. I however done no work at all on the driver boom and driver gaff as I am awaiting the small sheet of 5mm which I have lost, and it contains the jaws for both. Here are a few photos of my progress , and once again you can see there is rigging to be belayed on the inside of the ship on the gun deck, you can see the thread on the cleat were it is belayed. There is also rigging belayed on the upper gun deck. Thanks once again for viewing and your comments.. DAVID

Thanks for the comments Alistair, Druxey, Joe, David, Mark, David, John, Remco, Alex, Patrick, Grant, Sherry and Popeye .
 
 
Alistair, it probably depends on the particular ship as to how much camber (or "roundup") the gratings have. On the Swans it's quite a bit more than the roundup of the decks.
 
 
Take a look down the page a bit Remco .
 
Continuing on with the wheel .... I turned the Barrel and fitted it to the wheel :
 

 

 
Last things to make were the two Stanchions that support the wheel assembly. These have a molded section in their faces, which I cut with an Xacto :
 

 
Here's a pic showing how small the wheel is compared to a 5c piece :
 

 
The wheel dry-fitted to the deck. I'll leave it off for now as it could get damaged fairly easily. Oh yeah, and the wheel is fully operational (or will be when it's rigged ) :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Popjack - like you I noticed the internal stropping of the blocks. I decided to try drilling holes for the hooks and eyes that needed to be added to blocks.  I used a #74 drill (or thereabouts) with a pinvise and CAed the hardware into the block.  I have been able to do this with all the sizes of blocks included in the kit.  I am using 24 gauge galvanized steel wire at the moment although some of my early attempts used the brass wire included with the kit.
 
After getting the hooks on the blocks and hanging them on their eye (or bail or whatever) they kept annoying me by falling off with almost no provocation from me so I decided it was time to mouse them.  My first attempts were  pretty clumpy looking but I kept at it until I liked the look.  I used Coats and Clark cotton-poly blend thread and took the strands apart to get a single filament line to use for mousing.  I think my later results look pretty good.  Here is a photo of the foremast top with several blocks moused in view.  (If you don't want me to clutter your log with photos, let me know and I'll pull this one.)
 

 
I think I had the mousing process documented in the MSW1 log, I'll have to add it to the new version if I find I haven't done it already.
 
Bob

Drilled holes in lathe ends & sides to hold everything together strongly & for the drum on the side.

Thank you all for the likes today.
 
This afternoon I finished the shoe. I don't know what else to call it.
 
A small slab of apple was set up in the mill and the broken reground 5/8 endmill was used like a fly-cutter to bore the 5/8 hole.
 

 
Next the basic shape was fretted out with the jewelers saw
 

 
The pieces from one side were then stuck back on with some double sided tape so that the other profile could be cut.
 

 

 

 
After a lot of filing and sanding then steel wool the shape is almost finished
 

 

 
Tomorrow a few hold down screws. then back to the cockpit cap rail.
 
Michael
 
 

No, this is no broadside ...
 

 
... nor fire alarm ...
 

 
... only ...
 

 
... one of the easiest ways to prevent things falling inside of the ship. Cheap, easily placed, easily taken out without danger for paint or flimsy details :-)
 
Cheers, Daniel

Dessert

And as icing on the cherry :-)
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I wish you a good night and a good digestion, also we hope you liked Mr Thor and his mighty hammer :-)
 

 
Daniel

Third Course

To end something less heavy to digest, just some details ...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
What a nice back ...
 
...hihihihihihi...

Second Course
 
Next curse is about the nippers ...
 
 
 
... here shown the newer version, a long rope, that links the anchor cable with the messenger. The older version is shorter with a small plate on the end, but apparently more difficult to unlock.
 
The system is simple: 3 turns around the messenger, three around both cables, there around the anchor cable. There were more complicated versions, but I hope, this one will do. The ends are not knotted, so I believe the end was to be stretched by a hand. This is why my little shipyard worker was helping out - What a smart nipper he is :-)
 
And here are the details: The messenger is pulled on the starbord side and running back on larboard.
 
At the bows the messenger is running loosely around the rollers ...
 

 
... and will be nipped straight after the manger. 
 

 
Both cables run over the horizontal parts of the riding bits.
 
 
 
On larboard the eye splices are to be seen, then it goes just straight ...
 

 
... before the nipping is taken off for the anchor cable to disappear in the orlop deck. The starboard cable is stored on the port side and vica versa for handling reasons.
 

 
Of course the grating should still be taken down, but unfortunately it was glued in to professionally in my dim and distant past ...
 
The messenger still has to finish its turn round the pumps, on starboard over the stanchion´s roller ...
 

 
... and finally running round the capstan to proceed bowwards.
 

 
And if you have a close look, you will discover our mysterious Mr. Thor swinging his mighty hammer :-)
 
 
 
His duty was to make shure, that the incoming cable does not jump over the turn lying above it. And we see Jack, Ben und Phil pulling free the outgoing cable.
 
Here a overview from the back, one can see the space above the elmtree pumps ...
 

 
... also interesting the turns the cables take on the pulled side, both horizontally and vertically ...
 

 
... and from the front.
 

 
...hihihihihihi...
 
*runningbacktokitchen*

Second Course
 
Next curse is about the nippers ...
 
 
 
... here shown the newer version, a long rope, that links the anchor cable with the messenger. The older version is shorter with a small plate on the end, but apparently more difficult to unlock.
 
The system is simple: 3 turns around the messenger, three around both cables, there around the anchor cable. There were more complicated versions, but I hope, this one will do. The ends are not knotted, so I believe the end was to be stretched by a hand. This is why my little shipyard worker was helping out - What a smart nipper he is :-)
 
And here are the details: The messenger is pulled on the starbord side and running back on larboard.
 
At the bows the messenger is running loosely around the rollers ...
 

 
... and will be nipped straight after the manger. 
 

 
Both cables run over the horizontal parts of the riding bits.
 
 
 
On larboard the eye splices are to be seen, then it goes just straight ...
 

 
... before the nipping is taken off for the anchor cable to disappear in the orlop deck. The starboard cable is stored on the port side and vica versa for handling reasons.
 

 
Of course the grating should still be taken down, but unfortunately it was glued in to professionally in my dim and distant past ...
 
The messenger still has to finish its turn round the pumps, on starboard over the stanchion´s roller ...
 

 
... and finally running round the capstan to proceed bowwards.
 

 
And if you have a close look, you will discover our mysterious Mr. Thor swinging his mighty hammer :-)
 
 
 
His duty was to make shure, that the incoming cable does not jump over the turn lying above it. And we see Jack, Ben und Phil pulling free the outgoing cable.
 
Here a overview from the back, one can see the space above the elmtree pumps ...
 

 
... also interesting the turns the cables take on the pulled side, both horizontally and vertically ...
 

 
... and from the front.
 

 
...hihihihihihi...
 
*runningbacktokitchen*

First Course

... and if you think things are now sorted, you could be wrong ...
 
... first a threat was streched to get an idea of the way the messenger takes. Bows rather easy, the capstan too, but the pump ensemble appeared intresting ...
 

 
... if the messenger is on the floor, it is underneath the dales and could get stuck in the sharp corner of the stanchion, if it is put on the roller of the stanchion, it hangs in the front of the chain pumps´cisterns, if it is lead from the stanchion´s roller to a hanging roller it interferes with the elmtree pump. Only if it is guided by a roller abreast and aback the pumps it can move freely ...
 
 
 
... what was to be proved easily by a test messenger. 
 
So distributed the hanging messengers by means of a tape on the stand and doing the count of the deckbeams ...
 
 
 
... and drilling the holes ...
 

 
... which resulted in another of my funny operations deep inside the intestines of my Vic.
Then taking out the thread, putting in the real messenger ...
 

 
... adjusted the length, and taking out the whole thing again to build up the second eye spice ...
 

 
... and putting everything in again, sometimes using the heavy duty special devices ...
 

 
... just to end up with the fun and honnor to have to do the lashing all down in there :-)
 

 
But sometimes two hair clamps work wonders :-)!
 
Afterwards Dr dafi still had to remove the stitches ...
 
 
 
*andrunnighastilybacktothekitchen*

Aperitif
 
... so first a new messenger was done and there came the next question: which way was the messenger worked? Always from the bottom to the top or always clockwise because of the lay of the cable?
 
So Jack, Ben und Phil were pushed away from the old capstan, this one was made turnable, the messenger was wound 4 times round, some weight put onto the cables to simulate load and the capstan was worked. 
 

 
The frictional connection worked extremely well on the model, I did not manage to make it loose grip, neither with little or with heavy load. The pile of turns nicely slid upwards, giving space on the bottom. The other way round - cable coming in on the top and leaving on the bottom - did not work as expected. (picture still with an old cable-laid cable)
 
As the messenger is endless, it is linked by 2 eye splices with a lashing. Curious as I am, I wanted to see what happens if this big fat end comes to the capstan - it looks less dramatically than expected :-)
 

 
And here comes the big topic, the side that runs back too the bows. On the Vic in P. it is shown on the floor, most models show the same. This for sure is the basic idea. But early in the research i found the drawing of 1815, showing hanging rollers.
 

 
Many contemporary drawings show cables lashed up to the ceiling, the AOTS of Bellona 1760 and Diana 1794 show the same system of rollers as seen on the drawing.
 
So great happiness as I found a uncommon feature to put to discussion.
 
First tests proved successful
 
 
 
*jumpingofjoy*
 
*runningbacktokitchen*

I think that by now is a commonly known fact, that I am infamous for trying to understand technical interconnections. I realised long ago the two stanchions situated behind the pumps´area, being that solid, good english oak and plenty of that.
 
Once I fixed the first dale, I immediately understood the height of the guide, to keep the dale free. But as I did not see the sense of the vertical roller, I took the chance to omit it as I thought it to be just for reduction of friction ...
 
... and as I did not want you to call me a rivet counter ...
 
... but!
 
... but by now, a learnt a little bit more about the messenger . yes, a little bit :-)
 
On the tension side the messenger comes from the main hatch - where the anchor cable is stowed - and passes the pumps´ area almost parallel to the ships axis, slowly raising to the above mentioned rollers on the stanchion, where it takes a turn down- and inwards towards the spill. Therefore the whole weight/force of the anchor pulling on the messenger is put onto this one stanchion. No wonder it is as thick as it is.
 
And for that the vertical roller is needed too, yes, the tiny one that little dafi wanted to embezzle ...
 
And another thing I realised ...
 

 
... of course the pump and cistern are ought to be kept free too. So the cable has to be set more outside. As the rework was to great to be done ambulantly inside, one already guesses the ritual coming ...
 

 
... with a friendly and nasty sound of a gentle crack, caused by the pleasant but nicely brutal push of a scalpel´s back the stanchions gave way for external treatment ...
 

 
... the missing wheel including its bearing was fixed, as was the missing clamp (even though I still ignore its purpose, but one can never have enough clamps on a sailing ship) ...
 

 
... and positive confirmation that the change of direction works fine :-)
 
 
Thrown back into the hull, but still just stuck in and therefore not aligned properly ...
 

 
... one can see how tight it is ...
 

 
... and above I gave the position of the upper deck beam using a kebab skewer ...
 

 
... and ontop of this one missing the quarter deck. 
 
Deep down inside, the pump now is nicely kept clear ...
 

 
... also nicely to be seen from above.
 

 
Now the messenger can be unleashed :-)
 
Cheerio, DAniel

And it keeps hurting ...
 
... long time ago I proudly presented the pump ensemble ...
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/76-hms-victory-by-dafi-to-victory-and-beyond/page-3#entry4419
 
...  but now, suddenly something was missing on the lower deck ...
 

 
...ouch...ouch...ouch...
 

 
...?!?
 
Long time ago I realised a remark in Arming and Fitting that from about 1740 on, the ships were supplied with an extra set of pumps. First quests were begative, but then I discovered the described sets of pumps on almost all plans in the NMM, among them the plans of the Vic of 1788, showing the etxra pumps on the middle deck.
 
http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/79915.html 
http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/79916.html 
http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/79917.html 
 
Here is a montage of the three decks of the pumps area
 

 
One can nicely see the Layout: The single story pumps linked by the cistern, the double story pumps with a cistern each on the lower deck but not interconnected. But no technical details to be found.
 
The only place showing the details is Rob Napier´s book about the contemporary model of the HMS PRINCESS ROYAL 1773. 
 
The linkage in between the two stories was in form of a well, all the lower deck cisterns have adapters for dales and the cranks of the single story pumps protrudes through the well of the two story pumps.
 
Why this arrangement almost never is shown? The curse of the museums ship? 
 
So here we go adapting the pumps ...
 

 
... a touch of color, a tad of highlights and ink ...
 

 
...the clamps on the ships side for the dale´s round end pointing into the scupper, once open and once closed by a slider ...
 

 
... maneuvered onto its place ...
 

 
... and the pump ensemble shoved into its habitat too.
 

 
Interesting is the way the dales go ...
 

 
... being quite close to then guns.
 

 
That is why I do have the side entry port, for the nice view, and yes, I know, if the dale is fixed, the slider should have been taken off ...
 

 
And now we go on and have to fix some new cranks and drill some scuppers ...
 

 
... so the thrill goes on :-)
 
Lieber Gruß, Daniel

Nurse! - Scalpel - wadding - death certificate ...
 

 
... please put the patient up ...
 

 
... adjust field of view ...
 

 
... look for culprit ...
 

 
... aaaaaaaaaand - CUT!!! ...
 

 
Dear Sirs and Madam, we proudly present bitstopper version 2. 
 
The old one - not only looking more alike a blopp than a stopper - was a great security risk: only the thin lanyard was fixed on the anchor cable ...
 
http://pete-coleman.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=1035&start=480#p14601
 
... not very stable. The right way now seen means that the stopper is lashed directly onto the anchor cable, only the turks head looking out, the rest of the  lanyard being wormed along the cable and secured
 

 
Looks more heavy duty now ...
 

 
... also the bitstoppern ...
 

 
... and the dogstopper.
 

 
And so we get a nice new picture :-)
 

 
Sincerily, Daniel