Aussie048

Steve, thanks for your thoughts about my machining.
 
Doris it is always an honour to receive your praise.
 
Bob, sometimes I wish you lived just around the corner so I could talk to you about design issues, your experience would be very informative.
 
Tom, thanks and yes I think it is on the right track.
 
Mark thanks, each day I realize how much more work and testing there is so it is really nice when they work out.
 
today I also managed to get a start on the reworking of the rudder shaft top. I machined a 1 1/2 inch length of 1/2 inch diameter brass rod to a dome end and bored out the inside to fit the copper shaft and also to fit a piece of square brass tube then slipped a piece of 1/4 inch brass tube in after these were soft soldered into the hole then the cross hole was drilled and tapped 4x40 for the yoke fixing screws.
 

 
The body of the yoke is just rough machined at this point and the apple wood tiller will need to be replaced with a new one because it is about a 3/64 too narrow. so some masking tape thickener to see how the length looks.
 

 
I like the way it is articulated now so will finalize the shaping  of the yoke tomorrow. I will make a wood shoe to clean up the transition from the deck to blend in the angles.
 

 
Michael

NIBBING TIME !!!!
 

Also fitted anchor ropes to windlass and most deck.work is done now. Regards Oliver

Thanks so much gang. Yes tom learning lots.!
 
So I forgot about hours tally..
Adding 50 hrs approx.
 
I have my skylight done. The panes work out to about 5-6 inches scaled up.
 
I decided to use some 2mm glass I had. Looks ok and I know it won't yellow or become brittle as plastics may over time..
 
The metal bars equate to 0.1 mm at this scale so a detail that has to be left off I think. Regards Oliver

Ollie,
 
Here are a couple of photos of skylights on contemporary models of cutters at the NMM at Greenwich which might be helpful to you.
 
John
 

So I've started on my skylight. Made.the carcass. I've been looking forward to making this.
 
I really don't don't like the cast windows, so another scratch component coming up.
 
The first picture is what kit supplies and instructs.
 
The second two are pictures I found that I think are more like it should be. Please advise me if you think they should be otherwise.. Regards ollie

Well hello and welcome back....Like many others on the forum, I've lost some photos on my build log....one has to expect this sort of casualty rate when upgrades, cleanups and backups are going on and I applaud our tireless forum administrators for their behind the scenes efforts!!
 
Eventually I will get to reposting the missing photos - I have them all somewhere and the names are still attached to the missing files so it shouldn't take long - at present, though, I'm so near to finishing that I'd rather press on with the build than re-post past entries here - if you are a soon-to-be greyhound builder and want to see some other photos, just prompt me here and I'll get them back up....
 
In the meantime, yesterday was a special day - my 1-year anniversary of starting on this build! The longest time it had taken me to build a ship model in the past was the Corel Toulonnaise at around 6 months. I had thought this one would be finished by late-November 2013! Ha!! So many modifications and so many issues with the kit definitely put the breaks on things, not to mention a new child and an increasingly busy work schedule and other projects drawing my attention. In any case, I thought I post a few pictures to document what she looks like one year in (though I think there are only about 10 working days left to go).....
 
Last night I made and outfitted the fore topsail yard, and began rigging it - truss, jeers and lifts. Tonight I'll finish the rigging and put on the ensign staff. Anyway, not much left of this one...enjoy the photos
hamilton
 
 

I finally found a planking tutorial that I can work with.  I found "Planking the hull - a tutorial"  by Keith Harris (Jack nastyface) and Wayne Tripp (trippwj).  I know there are two other tutorials out there but for some reason this one finally broke through to my sense of ...... or low level of...... well, you fill in the blank. LOL.  Anyways, the Rattlesnake plans show three groups of six planks and doesn't really show any actual "rules" for the width of those planks; this tutorial has me with four groups of sections (3, 3, 3, & 4) and it comes out to a total of 15 rows instead of 18.  Including the Wale and Garboard strakes.  I also got to keep those middle bulk head plank widths the original width.  The Rattlesnake plans have you resizing all of the strakes.  I'm not so sure all of the extra work was really worth it.  So anyways, here is what I have so far.  I had to remove one strake in order to get back on track.  But then, from my readings of the other logs here, who among us hasn't had to do some strake removal.
 

The tutorial uses black thread but I figured, hell, wouldn't any thread really work if you are using it to connect the lines as you lay them on the bulkheads?
 

Yep, removed the strake that I had for line number three. The Rattlesnake plans strake was going to mess up "Nastyfaces" plans.  The only thing I had to keep in mind, which was not explained well in the tutorial, was when you figure out your middle bulkhead number of strakes, you have to use that number for all of the bulk heads.  For my ship, that was 13 strakes not including the garboard and wale.  If your recalculated for each bulkhead you would end up with 11, 12 and 13 strakes.  Now how does one make strakes dissapear?
 

Looks like I was able to get things to line up.

i also rebuild some pieces of the capstan
 
the replaced parts
barrel; whelps; capstan bar;
 
Now enjoy the pic`s
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
   
 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
Now are the pawl`s, rope and whelp-chocks still missing
about this I will report next time
 
 
have fun

I have been experimenting with jigs for weaving the sock on the mouse for the stays and preventers and have almost got to a final solution.  The first of the photos below shows an early attempt using plastic discs with slots cut (alternate slots to a deeper depth) - proved too flimsy and difficult to control.  The second jig is working out OK but I made the mistake of setting up an even number of strands to weave around.  The temporary fix is to skip one of the strands at the top, but this tends to leave a slightly more open weave along this axis.  I have to re make this jig with a spacing that will permit an odd count.  I have drilled an inner and an outer set of holes to facilitate weaving under/over but I have found at my scale (1:60) that this is too many strands; but, the additional holes will be useful for 1:48 builds. 
 
I hope the photos are self-evident.  One of the photos shows a finished Mizzen stay, but I will probably redo this, as close examination shows the uneven weave along one axis (although partially hidden by the loop).  These jig ideas are not original and I have borrowed ideas from several members build logs - thanks to all.
 
Please note that the larger thread/strands shown are only to enhance the photo, and the alternate colour is to enhance the weave pattern in the photo - I am using a much smaller thread for the actual mouse at this scale of 1:60.

Here are all the transoms made but they have not been glued and pinned yet, I had to make transom #4 twice as the first one was skewed.
I have finished making the acrylic stands and all I have to do now is finish marking the buildboard before bolting the keel down, then the transoms can be fixed in place.
 
Ben

Hi and thanks for the comments and likes.
 
As well as making the acrylic stands that will hold the stem/stern in place on the buildboard I have also started the stern framing.
 
Here is the all important Wing transom cut out of 18" stock and the 3" roundup sanded in so the piece is 15" all the way across. Now to start the shaping. I have left the ends 1/32 oversize to allow adjustment with the cant frame.
 
Ben

started on the hammock rails / stanchions.  drilled a hole in the bottom of stanchions for a small piece of wire to attach to the main rail, 

Added a bed and a closet for one of the cabins. The palliasse, a straw filled matras, was made from sculpey. I found a picture on the internet and made one like it.
 

 

 

 

 
The pantry was made using the same technique as the sail room
 

 
Remco

Just a quick update, basically because the time clock has hit 450 hours.
 
Quarter gallery construction is moving along nicely.  They are basically done and painted.  Note the rabbet inside the window frames......these will support the windows in a bit so they won't topple into the galleries:
 

 
There are 4 beaded moldings that need to be installed before we get to the windows themselves (not to mention a veritable plethora of photoetched adornments).  This is the fun stuff!
 
 

Last Update:  
 
I have made an executive decision and am nixing the rigging this build with option to at a later date.  This month marks the beginning of my fourth year on this build and I just need to start something new.  I have added stubs for the masts and bow (not glued in).
 
Since my previous update, I have added the stunsail booms to the channels, repainted and mounted the figurehead, bumpkins and safety rails, assembled and mounted the three stern lanterns.
The figurehead I have deviated from the plan suggested colors and tried to duplicate the colors of an actual Bellerophon figurehead from a web site that shows the head.
The stern lanterns needed an addition modification.  The cast cap was too small to cover the five sides therefore I added 1/32" piece of wood and trimmed.  The bottom cast piece was ok.  I also cut clear plastic windows on each side. 
There's a few additional details I wanted to add, but not at this time.
It's been a long mostly enjoyable ride and not sure I could ever attempt such a long build again.
Thanks for all those who looked in and will in the future.  Hopefully, something useful was picked up positive or negative on how to.  Will probably post additional pix in the gallery.
 
Mark this project as complete.
 
Take care and happy modeling,
Len

Thanks Nils
 
Build Update
 
Finished adding associated material to Crossjack Yard and Mizzen Mast.  Deviations from plans included: didn't form center section of yard into 16 sections (just left round), moved Topping Lifts and lashed around masthead (plans eyelet just below mizzen top), Brace Pendants lashed to yard (plans hanging down), truss pendants used thimbles same as fore/main (plans just wrapped around),  added pin rail around mizzenmast (this will be used for belaying: truss pendants, couple halyards, lifts.  Footropes to be formed later.  Using several sources for reference which sometimes is subjective.  Just trying to make best choice for the build.  Adds enjoyable frustration at times, but just a hobby.
 
Mizzen Mast pintail shows closeup of Chucks rope, nice isn't it.
 
Next glueing in all three masts and starting standing rigging.
 
Until next time.
 
Take care and happy modeling,
Len

Companion Top
 
The aft Companion has a clerestory-style top fitted to it. Cutting the 2mm x 3mm holes for the Lights was a challenge . I cut them with a #11 Xacto and a tiny chisel, and bevelled their outer edges :
 

 
I "glazed" the lights with strips of very thin acrylic sheet, glued in with PVA. The corners of the four sections have been bevelled for a knife-edge fit :
 

 

 
A roof was cut from a piece of 0.6mm thick Castello and glued to the sides :
 

 
The assembly fitted to the deck :
 

 

 
  Danny

Forecastle Railing and Spar Rack
 
There is a Railing on the aft end of the Forecastle. Two Stanchions support the port and starboard sections. Each stanchion is fitted with a 2mm diameter x 0.7mm thick sheave which I turned on the lathe :
 

 
I made the rails in two sections, as it was nearly impossible to accurately cut the square holes for the stanchions without splitting the timber :
 

 

 
Some time ago I mentioned that there didn't seem to be a forward support for the ship's boats - yes there is . The Spar Rack does this job - the boats are lashed to spare spars carried on the rack. The rack is the same width as the railings. They still need a finish applied :
 

 

 
  Danny

Again thank you all for the kind comments and for all the likes.
 
 Mark
 
To answer you question, The original test piece was annealed at the other end.
 

 

 
then a small hammer was used to flatten the end
 

 
after about 6 or 7 blows the brass has become work hardened
 

 
After a second annealing and another 6 or 7 hammer blows the step was repeated because again the brass becomes work hardened
 

 
a third time for the annealing and another 10 or so blows, as the metal flattens a larger area needs to be hammered so it takes more blows, the weight or force of each blow remains pretty constant from the beginning to this this point, one gets into a rhythm just like any other repetitive task.
 

 
A fourth time was repeated as before, to get the new end similar to the first. on this test piece (I did not accurately measure both full diameter lengths at each end because they were done at different times, on the piece that is attached to the boom the ends were both turned before the flattening to ensure the same volume of material would squash out.)
After a clean up with the wire wheel the centre portion is annealed to soften it to be bent around a piece of rod.
 

 
The rod diameter need to be close to the final shape because there is very little spring to the brass after it is annealed, as it is bent it begins to work harden again which is good because the final shape needs to be hardened enough to retain its shape. the aluminum scrap here is 1 inch in diameter
 

 
next a smaller diameter piece of wood was used, it was a conveniently smaller diameter, to close in the ends a little tighter than the main curve
 

 
then the piece was squeezed onto the block of maple that I used for the final one that is on the boom this was so that the drilling could be done without the piece deforming any more.
 

 
The drilling was explained in the last entry in the build log.
 
I hope this helps to see how easy some of these tasks are when you break them down into their small steps.
 
1 Turn to diameter
 
2 heat to soften (annealing brass, heat to red then quench in cold water)
 
3 shape with hammer
 
4 reheat , as many times as needed to gain the desired amount of flattening
 
5 shape to final form
 
6 machine holes and finish shaping with files.
 
7 polish with emery and steel wool.
 
Michael
 
 
 

pop by anytime Jay the tea kettle is always on.
 
One of my own little fantasies Bob.
 
Sherry I love working with both materials, the beauty of boat models is the variety of materials that one gets to work with.
 
Keith thank you for you very nice commentary about my build log. One of the most important things for me is to understand the how and why of what I am making and if my account of what I am making is helpful then the sharing is worth the time it takes. I feel so much more informed from all the amazing builds on this forum that my own knowledge expands every day I log in.
 
John Thanks for your kind words
 
Ah mark its all smoke and mirrors. Thanks for the compliment.
 
Today was a fun day I finally finished the main sheet attachment to the boom.
 
First I did a forging test with some 1/4 inch brass stock I necked down about 3/4 of an inch to about 1/8th leaving a 1/4 inch long full diameter at the end. this was annealed and forged on the railroad anvil four times to flatten out the end.
 

 

 
After seeing that the forging would work for what I needed, a length of 1/4 inch rod was cut to 2 1/2 inch length with the centre necked down to the 1/8th diameter.  both end were then forged to the same shape as the test piece on the railroad track anvil.
 
after bending the curve into the smaller diameter (if I were to make another I would make it about 1/4 inch shorter) the unit was set up in the vice for drilling. A block of maple the same width as the boom was sandwiched between the ends to support the brass flange while the holes were drilled and then counter-bored to create flats in the slightly tapering flattened flange. The centre hole is 1/8th to allow a brass Chicago screw to replace the pin holding the clew out-haul sheave.
 

 
next the hole was reamed to ensure they were aligned.
 

 
after clean up.
 

 
removing the temporary pin.
 

 
fixing the new tackle
 

 
Done
 

 

 
Michael

Thank you Patrick and Marc.
 
I seem to have finally made a bit of progress attaching string this weekend!
 
First up, here's the Mizzen Pinrail with lines attached.  
 

 
The mast cleats that I removed from here have been relocated to the Belfry, because reading ahead, I realised that I was going to need these and as usual the kit hadn't provided for them.
 
This weekend I have managed to fit:
Topsail Sheet and Clue Lines to both Fore and Main lower yards. Leech Lines and Bunt Lines (Fore Lower Yard) Spritsail Yard Brace Spritsail Topsail Yard Brace Topsail Yard Reef Tackle (Fore) Topsail Yard Buntlines (Fore) Topgallant Sheet and Clue Lines (Fore) Topgallant Bunt Lines (Fore) The kit plans aren't too bad, once you figure out which line you are looking at. The only real issue is the belaying points - because the kit omits both shroud and mast cleats, it takes a while to figure out where the lines really need to go. Longridge has been indispensable for this.  I also have to acknowledge Gil Middleton's excellent log.  On one occasion, he was able to save me when even Longridge let me down!  Thanks Gil.
 
Pics - starting with Topsail Sheets and Clue Lines
 
Edit: I put a number of labels on these pics, but when I resized the pics, I lost most of the annotations.     
 

 

 
Topsail Buntlines:
 

 
Topgallant Sheet and Clue Lines:
 

 
Topgallant Buntlines:
 

 
A close up showing the underside of the Fore Top - it's getting quite busy under there!
 

 
And finally, a couple of overview shots:
 

 

 
 
 
 
 

Planking done - at last. Will be interesting to see what she comes out like after sanding.

As I said before, “SHE wants GOLD”.  Now I come to the cove that should be gold.  I looked into gold leaf but not only is it expensive but I don’t need near that much.  Yellow paint isn’t the same and I’ve never seen a gold paint that came close.  Besides with my hands I could never paint a straight line.  So here comes brass.  All I have to do is fasten a strip of brass . . . but I read topics here saying how do you fasten brass to wood?  There are probably many ways but here is how I did it.
 
The stripe goes in the cove line or in my case where the thin bulwark strake and the wide strake meet. 
 

 
My plan was to solder .188” of the tip of several .024” brass plank nails to a .032” brass rod.  This is still up in the bulwark area so fasteners had to be placed where the stations are.  I drilled .020” holes into the stations.  I measured the hole locations and soldered the nail tips at the same distances and found out that if you are off by even that little the brass rod doesn’t fit properly. 
 
On to plan B.  I placed the nail tips in the holes leaving about .06” exposed.  Then I soldered on the brass rod and pushed it tight against the wood.  I then filed a flat on the exposed part of the brass to catch the light.
 
Thanks for the help Nils.
 
Bob
 

Drilling for the nail tips.
 

A nail tip pressed in, waiting for solder.
 

Rod soldered to nail tip