Bob Cleek
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from mtaylor in Making sheaves for blocks and bitt pins
Allow me to further malign the rattle can! Shellac can be purchased in quart and, I believe, pint cans. It's thinned with denatured alcohol. It can be stored for a long time, stirred up and used easily. Apply it with a brush. Brushes clean easily when swirled in a small container of alcohol. When the "rinse" alcohol gets too dirty for further brush cleaning, I use it for thinning shellac or, with some shellac added, as my "thinned shellac" stock. Far less expensive than rattle cans and it can be surgically applied to rigging, etc. with a brush without the overspray problem.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in Joggle sticks, determining curves on model ships.
An alternative to joggle sticks ("pick up sticks") which is often helpful in tight spaces is to bend a strip of lead or annealed copper or brass against the shape to be picked up. The "dead soft" metal strip will hold the shape when bent and, when turned on its side, will serve a template against which the shape can be drawn with a pencil.
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Bob Cleek reacted to Rik Thistle in Stuart 10V model steam engine circa 1920s by Rik Thistle - FINISHED- 1:12 (est)
Hi all,
So here is my final post (for the moment*) on this build of the Stuart 10V completely assembled and with a minimalist paint job.
I know most industrial and model versions of the engine generally have a predominately Green paint finish with touches of Red, but I really like the way it looks at the moment - leaving most of the metalwork bare let's one see how the parts were machined.
The kit came with a Black anodised Cylinder surround and I used that as my colour cue - I added Satin Black to the Flywheel spokes and inner rim, and also to the backdrop for the letter 'S'.
Well, that's it ...a short Build Log and thanks to all for popping in and the Comments and Likes.
Richard
* The Reversing Gear will be added to the Build over the next 12 months, but now back to HMS Alert....oops, HMS Flirt, it's been a long time.
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Bob Cleek reacted to Rik Thistle in Stuart 10V model steam engine circa 1920s by Rik Thistle - FINISHED- 1:12 (est)
Thanks Roger,
I suspect that if you can machine small brass parts then you can pick up general workshop practice pretty quickly. Shadowing someone (an Elmer with a home workshop?) for a few weeks whilst they use their workshop tools is a great learning method. Then they can start gently letting you have a go on the various tools.
And I'm sure you know this, but ALWAYS wear safety glasses, and avoid having any dangly clothing that can get caught up in things. With new machines I do a good 5 mins of dry rehearsals using the Emergency Stop buttons, to train memory muscle. Sorry, if I sound like 'teacher' 😉
Richard
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Bob Cleek reacted to allanyed in Were can I get this clamping device
DFXLII
I REALLY like the clamps in the first photos. Regarding the last picture, if the planks are spiled or alternatively pre-bend the planks as demonstrated by Chuck Passaro, there is no need for any kind of pins or clamps when gluing a strake in place. Just a little finger pressure while the glue of your choice sets up. I find PVA will hold a properly spiled or pre-bent plank in less than a minute. Some members like to use CA and I am guessing that would hold in a few seconds. Do you bevel the edges of each strake to account for the radius of the hull?
Thanks for sharing your clamp designs!!!
Allan
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Roger Pellett in Making sheaves for blocks and bitt pins
Certainly, that could work easily. No need for epoxy, however. Thin shellac should do the trick easily. It will saturate the paper easily. There should be no need to glue the disks together. Just push a pin into the center of the stack of disks and soak them in shellac. This is how they used to make insulated electronic components in the days before plastics.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Rik Thistle in Another Never Ever
For a first model, you'd be well-advised to take a pass on any model with square yards and "lots of string." For a second model, assuming you continue on from your first, do not attempt any model which has square yards on more than one mast. After that, you should have a good feel for your abilities and you're on your own. The kit manufacturers sell lots of big, expensive, highly detailed models to beginners who never finish them. Lots and lots of them. Don't bite off more than you can chew.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Stuart 10V model steam engine circa 1920s by Rik Thistle - FINISHED- 1:12 (est)
Back in the days, there was a separate trade called a "fettler," who hand-fitted machine parts by scraping the surfaces with scrapers. The faying surfaces of the huge stationary and marine steam engines of the age of steam had to be "fetttled" by hand. the merest adjustment between their base and standards at the base could move the position of the head thirty feet above it by inches!
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Stuart 10V model steam engine circa 1920s by Rik Thistle - FINISHED- 1:12 (est)
One of my favorite websites to peruse when I want to productively kill some time! Highly recommended.
One note, however... their page on "internal combustion engines," includes "external combustion engines," too! You'd be surprised how few people these days know what an "external combustion engine" is, or so it seems.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from mtaylor in Stuart 10V model steam engine circa 1920s by Rik Thistle - FINISHED- 1:12 (est)
Back in the days, there was a separate trade called a "fettler," who hand-fitted machine parts by scraping the surfaces with scrapers. The faying surfaces of the huge stationary and marine steam engines of the age of steam had to be "fetttled" by hand. the merest adjustment between their base and standards at the base could move the position of the head thirty feet above it by inches!
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from mtaylor in Stuart 10V model steam engine circa 1920s by Rik Thistle - FINISHED- 1:12 (est)
One of my favorite websites to peruse when I want to productively kill some time! Highly recommended.
One note, however... their page on "internal combustion engines," includes "external combustion engines," too! You'd be surprised how few people these days know what an "external combustion engine" is, or so it seems.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Canute in Stuart 10V model steam engine circa 1920s by Rik Thistle - FINISHED- 1:12 (est)
Back in the days, there was a separate trade called a "fettler," who hand-fitted machine parts by scraping the surfaces with scrapers. The faying surfaces of the huge stationary and marine steam engines of the age of steam had to be "fetttled" by hand. the merest adjustment between their base and standards at the base could move the position of the head thirty feet above it by inches!
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Egilman in Stuart 10V model steam engine circa 1920s by Rik Thistle - FINISHED- 1:12 (est)
Back in the days, there was a separate trade called a "fettler," who hand-fitted machine parts by scraping the surfaces with scrapers. The faying surfaces of the huge stationary and marine steam engines of the age of steam had to be "fetttled" by hand. the merest adjustment between their base and standards at the base could move the position of the head thirty feet above it by inches!
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Canute in Stuart 10V model steam engine circa 1920s by Rik Thistle - FINISHED- 1:12 (est)
One of my favorite websites to peruse when I want to productively kill some time! Highly recommended.
One note, however... their page on "internal combustion engines," includes "external combustion engines," too! You'd be surprised how few people these days know what an "external combustion engine" is, or so it seems.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from thibaultron in Stuart 10V model steam engine circa 1920s by Rik Thistle - FINISHED- 1:12 (est)
Back in the days, there was a separate trade called a "fettler," who hand-fitted machine parts by scraping the surfaces with scrapers. The faying surfaces of the huge stationary and marine steam engines of the age of steam had to be "fetttled" by hand. the merest adjustment between their base and standards at the base could move the position of the head thirty feet above it by inches!
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from thibaultron in Stuart 10V model steam engine circa 1920s by Rik Thistle - FINISHED- 1:12 (est)
One of my favorite websites to peruse when I want to productively kill some time! Highly recommended.
One note, however... their page on "internal combustion engines," includes "external combustion engines," too! You'd be surprised how few people these days know what an "external combustion engine" is, or so it seems.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Rik Thistle in Stuart 10V model steam engine circa 1920s by Rik Thistle - FINISHED- 1:12 (est)
One of my favorite websites to peruse when I want to productively kill some time! Highly recommended.
One note, however... their page on "internal combustion engines," includes "external combustion engines," too! You'd be surprised how few people these days know what an "external combustion engine" is, or so it seems.
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Bob Cleek reacted to mtaylor in Stuart 10V model steam engine circa 1920s by Rik Thistle - FINISHED- 1:12 (est)
I don't know if this will inspire you or totally depress you... https://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/memuseum1.htm
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Bob Cleek reacted to Jaager in Another Never Ever
This is two generations after I started all this and I have no hands on experience with kits in this series, ( I did start with the old Model Shipways kits - yellow box - carved Basswood hulls.)
but if you have little or no experience with hardwood woodworking - especially at scale level - (plastic kits as a lead-in probably only helps with painting at scale - and given the kits that you express an interest in - there will be little to no painting with the wood) - you might consider a careful and sure footed entry into all this.
https://modelexpo-online.com/Model-Shipways-Lowell-Grand-Banks-Dory-with-Tools-124-Scale-Skill-Level-I-of-the-Shipwright-Learning-Series_p_3959.html
A boat is certainly not as sexy as a first rate or a cutter even - but even cutters had boats - understanding boats is a valuable skill/knowledge base and the actual work will give you enough of a taste to know if this is something that you really want to plunge into without investing a house payment.
Reading: For Beginners -- A Cautionary Tale would be time well spent.
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Bob Cleek reacted to Gregory in Another Never Ever
I agree with GrandpaPhil.
The other kits on your list leave a lot to be desired for a first wood ship kit..
They would tend to be more discouraging than helpful in getting started in this hobby.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from Jaager in Making sheaves for blocks and bitt pins
Certainly, that could work easily. No need for epoxy, however. Thin shellac should do the trick easily. It will saturate the paper easily. There should be no need to glue the disks together. Just push a pin into the center of the stack of disks and soak them in shellac. This is how they used to make insulated electronic components in the days before plastics.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from mtaylor in Making sheaves for blocks and bitt pins
Certainly, that could work easily. No need for epoxy, however. Thin shellac should do the trick easily. It will saturate the paper easily. There should be no need to glue the disks together. Just push a pin into the center of the stack of disks and soak them in shellac. This is how they used to make insulated electronic components in the days before plastics.
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Bob Cleek got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Stuart 10V model steam engine circa 1920s by Rik Thistle - FINISHED- 1:12 (est)
I have long had an interest in live steam power as well. I had friends in the boating community who had steam boats. I had the pleasure of restoring a 5" long working live steam yacht model to working order years ago and that really got me thinking seriously about building a full size steam launch for myself but, alas, "life intervened." I did add a fair number of books on live steam to my library over the years in the course of studying the subject. There's a surprising amount of model steam equipment on the market. It's more like buying jewelry than model parts, though!
An engine will run around $600 to $1,100. The steam plant will run around $900. Then you have to make all the additional plumbing and tankage and the stuff for the RC control system.
Saito of Japan is one of the main manufacturers of scale model steam gear. They sell model kits, as well. https://www.saito-mfg.com/en/top_en/steamengine-boiler-boat_en/
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