Bob Cleek

The torch pictured is a Chinese knock-off of a Smith's Little Torch. I have one and I'd say that it has proven adequate for several years of limited hobby use, but I had problems with it at the outset. The oxy hose leaked something terrible, but not so I noticed it. I thought I was getting half empty bottles from the hardware store before I followed the instructions (duh!) and tested every fitting junction and discovered the hose clamp wasn't making a tight connection. One mini-hose clamp later and I was good to go. There's a serious price difference between the real Smith's Little Torch and the knock-offs. (The AU price on the one pictured is astronomical! Shop around on the internet for the best prices. I got mine in the US from Harbor Freight mail order for about $60 US, as I recall.) 
 
I didn't know I was buying a knock-off when I bought my torch, although I was suspicious because of the lower price. The knock-offs are practically indistinguishable from the real Smith's Little Torches. The difference in price has to do with the tips and sloppy assembly on the hose connections. The real Smith's torches have high quality tips that work better and last longer. At less than $150 for the disposable tank kit, I urge you to buy the real Smith's Little Torch instead of a cheap knock-off or out-and-out counterfeit. (The counterfeits even copy the Smith's instructions and box appearances, which call them Smith's torches.)  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000T43L30?SubscriptionId=AKIAJA54JMESX73IGPXQ&ascsubtag=719191942-16-963305102.1626138622&linkCode=osi&psc=1&tag=d_2b_a_p-20&th=1
 
Research it further on YouTube. There' s a ton of very good videos on the subject of these "little torches." I consider one essential for fine silver soldering. They are widely accepted as the industry standard in the jewelry business. Just don't get suckered into buying a knock-off thinking you're getting a bargain. See: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Smith+Little+Toroch
 
 

The torch pictured is a Chinese knock-off of a Smith's Little Torch. I have one and I'd say that it has proven adequate for several years of limited hobby use, but I had problems with it at the outset. The oxy hose leaked something terrible, but not so I noticed it. I thought I was getting half empty bottles from the hardware store before I followed the instructions (duh!) and tested every fitting junction and discovered the hose clamp wasn't making a tight connection. One mini-hose clamp later and I was good to go. There's a serious price difference between the real Smith's Little Torch and the knock-offs. (The AU price on the one pictured is astronomical! Shop around on the internet for the best prices. I got mine in the US from Harbor Freight mail order for about $60 US, as I recall.) 
 
I didn't know I was buying a knock-off when I bought my torch, although I was suspicious because of the lower price. The knock-offs are practically indistinguishable from the real Smith's Little Torches. The difference in price has to do with the tips and sloppy assembly on the hose connections. The real Smith's torches have high quality tips that work better and last longer. At less than $150 for the disposable tank kit, I urge you to buy the real Smith's Little Torch instead of a cheap knock-off or out-and-out counterfeit. (The counterfeits even copy the Smith's instructions and box appearances, which call them Smith's torches.)  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000T43L30?SubscriptionId=AKIAJA54JMESX73IGPXQ&ascsubtag=719191942-16-963305102.1626138622&linkCode=osi&psc=1&tag=d_2b_a_p-20&th=1
 
Research it further on YouTube. There' s a ton of very good videos on the subject of these "little torches." I consider one essential for fine silver soldering. They are widely accepted as the industry standard in the jewelry business. Just don't get suckered into buying a knock-off thinking you're getting a bargain. See: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Smith+Little+Toroch
 
 

Especially if you are using acetylene! 

Especially if you are using acetylene! 

The torch pictured is a Chinese knock-off of a Smith's Little Torch. I have one and I'd say that it has proven adequate for several years of limited hobby use, but I had problems with it at the outset. The oxy hose leaked something terrible, but not so I noticed it. I thought I was getting half empty bottles from the hardware store before I followed the instructions (duh!) and tested every fitting junction and discovered the hose clamp wasn't making a tight connection. One mini-hose clamp later and I was good to go. There's a serious price difference between the real Smith's Little Torch and the knock-offs. (The AU price on the one pictured is astronomical! Shop around on the internet for the best prices. I got mine in the US from Harbor Freight mail order for about $60 US, as I recall.) 
 
I didn't know I was buying a knock-off when I bought my torch, although I was suspicious because of the lower price. The knock-offs are practically indistinguishable from the real Smith's Little Torches. The difference in price has to do with the tips and sloppy assembly on the hose connections. The real Smith's torches have high quality tips that work better and last longer. At less than $150 for the disposable tank kit, I urge you to buy the real Smith's Little Torch instead of a cheap knock-off or out-and-out counterfeit. (The counterfeits even copy the Smith's instructions and box appearances, which call them Smith's torches.)  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000T43L30?SubscriptionId=AKIAJA54JMESX73IGPXQ&ascsubtag=719191942-16-963305102.1626138622&linkCode=osi&psc=1&tag=d_2b_a_p-20&th=1
 
Research it further on YouTube. There' s a ton of very good videos on the subject of these "little torches." I consider one essential for fine silver soldering. They are widely accepted as the industry standard in the jewelry business. Just don't get suckered into buying a knock-off thinking you're getting a bargain. See: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=Smith+Little+Toroch
 
 

Without Helm, 
Hope you don't mind a little constructive information as building these little guys can be harder than the full size hull at times.    If you would like the scantlings for everything on the boat, please feel free to PM me.  Just need to know the length and type of boat for which the scantlings would be.    There are  "how to" posts on planking small boats like yours here at MSW.   I notice that you seem to have run out of room at the bow  because the planks are not tapered as they move forward so maybe consider taking a look at Druxey's recent build log (click on the image below) for some great tips on making a ship's boat.   I think you will find this to be extremely helpful in making a boat that looks great.  Allan
 

My recent experience with cheap gas torches is bad.  The valves leak.

Go with the tried and true Smith Little Torch.  Quality w/o questions of reliability.
 

Yes, Tony, there is just enough information on the drawing you show to reconstruct body plan (waterlines, if you need them) and proof diagonals to see if everything is fair. If you know frame spacing, you could even derive all the frame drawings. The buttock line help define the rapidly changing form of the hull at the extreme aft end

Ages ago I had to hand draw missing frames from Boudriot's plans for my 74. He only drew the so called station frames, but "for the clarity of the drawings" omitted the others. It took me considerable time to do it (of course, like mustard after dinner, later on Ancre issued addendum to the 4 volumes with ALL frames included, lucky me...  😬 ).
I remember I used waterlines from a half breadth plan as well as a body plan to draw missing profiles. It worked...

You'll probably be just fine. A good finish on  the exterior should prevent leakage. 

You'll probably be just fine. A good finish on  the exterior should prevent leakage. 

I've decided to leave them in if water gets in its just as big of a problem to the wood as it is the nails so I don't feel they're an additional liability. I'll just be sure to make it absolutely sealed before painting. 
 
 

i doubt they will rust if they are sealed as described. The major risk with iron fastenings in a model boat that is going to be used in the water is that any crack, however small, is a way for a wooden hull to soak up moisture, and especially water, like a sponge. Then, the iron nails may well start to rust and the wooden hull can start to rot. That said, if they are only wet occasionally and stored where they can dry out, my guess is the nails will do okay.]
 
It's unfortunate they are there, but we've all done similar things along the may in our modeling journeys. The biggest problem I see is that the nail heads may interfere with your sanding the hull fair. I doubt you can drive them much more with a countersink punch without splitting your frame, either. It's your call, surely, but you wouldn't be the first guy to undo and redo something that didn't work out on the first go-round. BTW, I'm curious. Did the Billings' instructions say that the planks were supposed to be nailed to the frames?

i doubt they will rust if they are sealed as described. The major risk with iron fastenings in a model boat that is going to be used in the water is that any crack, however small, is a way for a wooden hull to soak up moisture, and especially water, like a sponge. Then, the iron nails may well start to rust and the wooden hull can start to rot. That said, if they are only wet occasionally and stored where they can dry out, my guess is the nails will do okay.]
 
It's unfortunate they are there, but we've all done similar things along the may in our modeling journeys. The biggest problem I see is that the nail heads may interfere with your sanding the hull fair. I doubt you can drive them much more with a countersink punch without splitting your frame, either. It's your call, surely, but you wouldn't be the first guy to undo and redo something that didn't work out on the first go-round. BTW, I'm curious. Did the Billings' instructions say that the planks were supposed to be nailed to the frames?

i doubt they will rust if they are sealed as described. The major risk with iron fastenings in a model boat that is going to be used in the water is that any crack, however small, is a way for a wooden hull to soak up moisture, and especially water, like a sponge. Then, the iron nails may well start to rust and the wooden hull can start to rot. That said, if they are only wet occasionally and stored where they can dry out, my guess is the nails will do okay.]
 
It's unfortunate they are there, but we've all done similar things along the may in our modeling journeys. The biggest problem I see is that the nail heads may interfere with your sanding the hull fair. I doubt you can drive them much more with a countersink punch without splitting your frame, either. It's your call, surely, but you wouldn't be the first guy to undo and redo something that didn't work out on the first go-round. BTW, I'm curious. Did the Billings' instructions say that the planks were supposed to be nailed to the frames?

First of all the Sand Pebbles is one of my two or three all time favorite movies.  The book which I have read several times is great too.  Although, Steve McQueen did a superb job of playing the part of Jake Homan, his celebrity and classification of the movie as Action Adventure tends to hide the fact that Richard McKenna intended the book as a serious piece of literature.
 
To try to help answer your question.  On page 422 of Norman Friedman’s book Small Combatants there is a line drawing by A.D. Baker III of the Yangtze  gunboat Mindanao.  There are two motor sampans shown.  The port rigged as an officer’s gig and the starboard as a utility boat.  By blowing up the picture with a xerox machine you can get a top view and profile of these boats.  Unlike the Sand Pebble movie boat these appear to be flat bottomed.  The book is expensive so try an inter library loan.  The forum moderators are touchy about posting copyrighted material, but if you send me a PM I’ll see what I can do.
 
BTY Valiant Miniatures makes a great 54mm (1:32) cast metal kit of a Steve McQueen type figure with a BAR.
 
Roger 

I did some research for a model of Sand Pebbles. That led me to the prototype of the movie prop boat, USS Villalobos, (PG-42,) which I'll share briefly below. I believe the plans for USS Villalobos may be available from the U.S. Navy Museum.
 
The USS San Pablo of Sand Pebbles movie fame is a fictional ship built for $250,000 as a set for the movie by Vaughan and Yung, Hong Kong, and now located on the Pearl River, PRC. (The triple-expansion engine used in the movie was, IIRC, an ex-Liberty ship engine located in a Seattle museum and not the engine which would have been on the patrol gunboat portrayed in the movie.  The USS San Pablo was based on the USS Villalobos (PG-42) captured in the Philippines by the US Army in 1898 during the Spanish-American War. She was added to the Navy roll as a prize and operated thereafter, together with the former Spanish ships Elcano, Quiros, and Callao. 
 

 
USS Villalobos. Note "sampan" shallow draft launch alongside.  (http://www.navsource.org/archives/12/09042.htm, see also:  http://www.navsource.org/archives/12/120904203.jpgI) expect this small boat may have been a locally sourced auxilliary. In this era, captains had authority to acquire such non-standard vessels on the vessel's account. Here it would have made sense, given the shallow waters in which the Yangtse Squadron operated. There were no "standard" USN "sampans," or square-bowed small craft at that time, other than hard-chined flat-bottomed small work boats designated as "punts," which came in a 12' and 14' version. (See: Standard Designs for Boats of the United States Navy: Specifications, Schedule of Material, Weights and Cost, USN-GPO 1900) The photo is of a much longer, and perhaps more elegantly-shaped boat.
 
Were one to want to model a sampan similar to the one in the photo above, the place to find detailed construction drawings would be The Junks and Sampans of the Yangtse, by G.R.G Woorcester (reprint - US Naval Institute https://www.usni.org/press/books/junks-and-sampans-yangtze)
 
Note that the launch in the movie still is much smaller and would likely not have been used in USN service at that time. 
 
 See: https://www.thesandpebbles.com/san_pablo/demise_sanpablo.html and https://industrialhistoryhk.org/j-h-vaughan-an-american-shipbuilder-in-hong-kong-by-york-lo/ (which has links to a youtube video of the construction of the movie vessel and a model of it) for further information on the movie prop boat.
 

 
 

To add one more tool to the box, I should mention that a draftsman's ruling pen can also often be quite handy if the line can be struck along a straight edge or drafting curve. These pens permit width of line adjustments within their limits and are made in various configurations, including "curve pens" which will follow the drafting curve's edge while swiveling to keep the two points normal to the edge and so avoid variations in the width of the drawn line. There are also "railroad pens"  which will draw two lines parallel to each other, either straight or against a drafting curve. Paint can be used with them as well as the more common inks. Drafting pens have lots of applications in modeling, limited only by the user's creativity.
 
Ruling pens are often included in classic drafting tool sets and are frequently available at reasonable prices on eBay.
 
Top to bottom: a ruling pen for straight lines, a straight line "railroad" pen for straight lines (in this case more often used for drawing margins around drawings, etc., and a "curve pen," the head of which can be permitted to swivel to follow a drafting curve, or, with the nut tightened at the end of the handle, be used as a straight line ruling pen.
 
 

 
Importantly, ruling pens are not simply dipped into the ink or paint bottle. The ink or paint should not be on the outside of the pen, but rather a drop of the drawing medium must be applied (with the eye dropper in the cap of the classic India ink bottle, or a brush) only to a point between the two blades such that it it fills, by capillary action, about a quarter inch of the space between the two points. 
 
See: https://www.jeeamirza.com/blog/2020/5/27/quick-guide-how-to-use-a-ruling-pen
 
 
 

"Real life" deck planking is not stained. Small boat decks are sometimes oiled, but, for larger vessels, decks are left unfinished. They are scrubbed clean regularly and in olden times they were "holy-stonned," meaning that they were "sanded" with square stone blocks, to remove accumulations of tar which dripped from the rigging when applied and even when it liquified in the heat of the tropics. Decks were laid of a single species of wood and so should not have appeared much different in color from one to the other. (Of course, if repairs were made and portions of decking replaced, it may vary slightly in appearance.) On a model, at scale, a deck should be a single color. A model's deck can, of course, be stained if the modeler wishes to use a species of wood that is of a lighter color than the real deck they are portraying. 
 
The cabin top in the posted photo appears to have an edge of a species different than the planks in the middle of the surrounding edge frame. They could, also, be of the same species, in this case quite possible teak, which has some variation in color, depending upon the subspecies of teak used. The difference in color seen in the cabin top in the picture appears to be the result of sloppy maintenance more than anything else. The top is varnished and it appears the varnish was applied without the teak being properly stripped and bleached before re-varnishing, leaving some weathered differently than others.
 
Properly, the "bright" (unpainted) wood, whether it be bare or varnished, should be of the same color. Where different colored wood is used for accents (as perhaps with the edge framing of the cabin top here,) that would require staining separately, either by careful masking, or staining separately before assembly. Other's mileage may vary, but I really see no reason to apply "wipe on poly" on bright wood on a model and I suppose that's a story for another night. (It's fine for bringing up the grain and figuring, but it's a rare wood species that benefits having it's grain or figuring accented at modeling scales, particularly if one has paid the big bucks for fine wood because of its even coloring.) 
 
Below: An (apparently) unfinished deck. The slight variations in color are the result of planks coming from different trees or parts of trees. At "scale viewing distance," this color variation would not be visible. The deck would appear a single color. Note how at "scale viewing distance," i.e. the far forward area of the deck, the color of the wood is seen as uniform and the black seam stopping is barely visible.
 

To add one more tool to the box, I should mention that a draftsman's ruling pen can also often be quite handy if the line can be struck along a straight edge or drafting curve. These pens permit width of line adjustments within their limits and are made in various configurations, including "curve pens" which will follow the drafting curve's edge while swiveling to keep the two points normal to the edge and so avoid variations in the width of the drawn line. There are also "railroad pens"  which will draw two lines parallel to each other, either straight or against a drafting curve. Paint can be used with them as well as the more common inks. Drafting pens have lots of applications in modeling, limited only by the user's creativity.
 
Ruling pens are often included in classic drafting tool sets and are frequently available at reasonable prices on eBay.
 
Top to bottom: a ruling pen for straight lines, a straight line "railroad" pen for straight lines (in this case more often used for drawing margins around drawings, etc., and a "curve pen," the head of which can be permitted to swivel to follow a drafting curve, or, with the nut tightened at the end of the handle, be used as a straight line ruling pen.
 
 

 
Importantly, ruling pens are not simply dipped into the ink or paint bottle. The ink or paint should not be on the outside of the pen, but rather a drop of the drawing medium must be applied (with the eye dropper in the cap of the classic India ink bottle, or a brush) only to a point between the two blades such that it it fills, by capillary action, about a quarter inch of the space between the two points. 
 
See: https://www.jeeamirza.com/blog/2020/5/27/quick-guide-how-to-use-a-ruling-pen
 
 
 

I realize this is probably more than most would ever want to know about painting stripes on models, but it's a subject that doesn't seem to have been addressed here lately and I type faster than a lot of people talk, so here it is.
 
Aside from the waterline on the X-Y axis, there aren't many straight lines on a seagoing vessel. That said, waterlines can be marked simply by mounting the hull on a flat surface in the "floating" attitude (sometimes there is considerable rake in the keel, particularly in small sailing vessels.) Then take a block of wood of suitable height with a pencil laid on top of it and just run the block around the hull using the pencil laying on the block to mark the waterline. Note that waterlines are not always of constant width. The eye sees the stripe as of a uniform thickness, but, as the stripe is generally on an inclined surface, its width on the hull has to account for that. When you line off a boot stripe with your block and pencil, you'll note that where the hull curves, the top and bottom edges of the stripe will not be parallel. For example, a boot stripe at the tuck of the stern can widen significantly. Another perspective issue is the shape of the hull overall. If a viewer is standing amidships and looking at the boot stripe, the boot stripe at the bow, and perhaps at the stern, will be farther from the viewer's eye than the stripe amidships because the bow, and perhaps the stern, narrow as the hull approaches its ends. For this reason, boot stripes often look better if they are laid out to gradually widen slightly as they approach the bow. This avoids the optical illusion that the boot stripe is narrowing as it runs towards the bow. These adjustments must be done "by eye" when masking the stripes.
 
As for painting, use a "fine line" masking tape to lay out the lines and paint between the masked areas. Don't use regular house painter's masking tape. The paint will likely run under the paint and make a mess. 3M's Fine Line Tape is a good brand. I believe Tamaya model paints also makes a fine line masking tape. Others have used automotive striping tape, but I've found it's often too thick and out of scale and color selections are limited. A bit of practice is advised before committing to tape and paint the model's hull. The learning curve is short and not steep, but you don't want to mess up the paint job on the model by making that your first try!
 
Fine line tape can be purchased at art supply stores: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40067079/  Buy the 1/4" wide tape and then use regular masking tape on top of that to mask a wider area, if need be.  The stuff is not cheap! Thinner is cheaper. About $30.00 a roll! A roll will probably last a lifetime of modeling, though. (Tamaya tape is less expensive, but I don't have any personal experience with it. I've read good reviews of it. Perhaps others can comment. 3M Fine Line is the industry standard for automotive and aircraft painters.) 
 
Be sure to store all masking tape, and especially fine line tape, in zip-lock plastic bags, which retard their drying out and significantly extend their shelf-life to practically forever.  Also, never ever lay a roll of any type of masking tape down on its side on your bench top. Always replace it in its zip-lock bag. Laying a roll of tape on its side will cause it to pick up dust and dirt on the side of the tape, which ruins it because the dust and dirt adhering to the edge of the tape will make it impossible to yield a razor sharp line and will permit  paint to seep beneath the edge of the tape.
 
There are other techniques for painting stripes, including using special pin-striping brushes freehand with One Shot sign paint, etc., etc., but the use of fine line tape is the only fool-proof method I know. Even among the pros, it's a rare "fist" who can do it well freehand with a brush.
 
 
 
 
 

To add one more tool to the box, I should mention that a draftsman's ruling pen can also often be quite handy if the line can be struck along a straight edge or drafting curve. These pens permit width of line adjustments within their limits and are made in various configurations, including "curve pens" which will follow the drafting curve's edge while swiveling to keep the two points normal to the edge and so avoid variations in the width of the drawn line. There are also "railroad pens"  which will draw two lines parallel to each other, either straight or against a drafting curve. Paint can be used with them as well as the more common inks. Drafting pens have lots of applications in modeling, limited only by the user's creativity.
 
Ruling pens are often included in classic drafting tool sets and are frequently available at reasonable prices on eBay.
 
Top to bottom: a ruling pen for straight lines, a straight line "railroad" pen for straight lines (in this case more often used for drawing margins around drawings, etc., and a "curve pen," the head of which can be permitted to swivel to follow a drafting curve, or, with the nut tightened at the end of the handle, be used as a straight line ruling pen.
 
 

 
Importantly, ruling pens are not simply dipped into the ink or paint bottle. The ink or paint should not be on the outside of the pen, but rather a drop of the drawing medium must be applied (with the eye dropper in the cap of the classic India ink bottle, or a brush) only to a point between the two blades such that it it fills, by capillary action, about a quarter inch of the space between the two points. 
 
See: https://www.jeeamirza.com/blog/2020/5/27/quick-guide-how-to-use-a-ruling-pen
 
 
 

To add one more tool to the box, I should mention that a draftsman's ruling pen can also often be quite handy if the line can be struck along a straight edge or drafting curve. These pens permit width of line adjustments within their limits and are made in various configurations, including "curve pens" which will follow the drafting curve's edge while swiveling to keep the two points normal to the edge and so avoid variations in the width of the drawn line. There are also "railroad pens"  which will draw two lines parallel to each other, either straight or against a drafting curve. Paint can be used with them as well as the more common inks. Drafting pens have lots of applications in modeling, limited only by the user's creativity.
 
Ruling pens are often included in classic drafting tool sets and are frequently available at reasonable prices on eBay.
 
Top to bottom: a ruling pen for straight lines, a straight line "railroad" pen for straight lines (in this case more often used for drawing margins around drawings, etc., and a "curve pen," the head of which can be permitted to swivel to follow a drafting curve, or, with the nut tightened at the end of the handle, be used as a straight line ruling pen.
 
 

 
Importantly, ruling pens are not simply dipped into the ink or paint bottle. The ink or paint should not be on the outside of the pen, but rather a drop of the drawing medium must be applied (with the eye dropper in the cap of the classic India ink bottle, or a brush) only to a point between the two blades such that it it fills, by capillary action, about a quarter inch of the space between the two points. 
 
See: https://www.jeeamirza.com/blog/2020/5/27/quick-guide-how-to-use-a-ruling-pen
 
 
 

To add one more tool to the box, I should mention that a draftsman's ruling pen can also often be quite handy if the line can be struck along a straight edge or drafting curve. These pens permit width of line adjustments within their limits and are made in various configurations, including "curve pens" which will follow the drafting curve's edge while swiveling to keep the two points normal to the edge and so avoid variations in the width of the drawn line. There are also "railroad pens"  which will draw two lines parallel to each other, either straight or against a drafting curve. Paint can be used with them as well as the more common inks. Drafting pens have lots of applications in modeling, limited only by the user's creativity.
 
Ruling pens are often included in classic drafting tool sets and are frequently available at reasonable prices on eBay.
 
Top to bottom: a ruling pen for straight lines, a straight line "railroad" pen for straight lines (in this case more often used for drawing margins around drawings, etc., and a "curve pen," the head of which can be permitted to swivel to follow a drafting curve, or, with the nut tightened at the end of the handle, be used as a straight line ruling pen.
 
 

 
Importantly, ruling pens are not simply dipped into the ink or paint bottle. The ink or paint should not be on the outside of the pen, but rather a drop of the drawing medium must be applied (with the eye dropper in the cap of the classic India ink bottle, or a brush) only to a point between the two blades such that it it fills, by capillary action, about a quarter inch of the space between the two points. 
 
See: https://www.jeeamirza.com/blog/2020/5/27/quick-guide-how-to-use-a-ruling-pen