Bob Cleek

Exactly so. Eberhard's photo of the tug at the NMM shows clearly how it was done with the lantern hung on a flat back plate which actually carries the jackstay rings. Other lanterns have the jackstay rings attached the lamp itself which would be less convenient than leaving the jackstays permanently rigged and slipping the lantern on and off a carrier plate. It should be remembered, however, that the jackstay and running light halyard arrangement might be a bit messy on a sailing ship with all the attendant rigging already running down to the base of the mast and for this reason steam powered vessels carrying auxiliary sails (or sailing vessels with auxiliary steam power) might opt for the "portable" rig whcih was struck down when not in use . The picture below, showing what appears to be more permanent jackline and bracket arrangement is on a steam tug which would not be bothered by additional rigging on and about the mast. Indeed, the backplate seems a bit crudely made and it's possible it was fabricated by the tug's bosun to achieve the convenience it affords in servicing and lighting.
 
 
 
All the lanterns of this era were hung in the same fashion.... or at least all I've ever seen. The back of the lantern has a bent flat metal strap which slides over a "tongue" positioned as may be convenient, either on a flat plate as shown above, or on a light board port and starboard, or on a stern transom or rail as shown in another of Eberhard's photos below. (Interestingly, the stern light shown was originally an oil lamp; as indicated by the permanently mounted "tongue" and strap on the lantern, but the lantern has been electrified as seen by the power cord running into the back of the lantern next to the standing "tongue" bracket.
 

 
In the photo below, a "tongue," rather than a strap, is attached to the back of this port running light to the right of the red curved glass inside the body of the lamp. (The back of the lamp body is a right angle so it will fit neatly into the corner of the light board. This tongue would slide into a strap permanently attached to the light board in order to "hang" the lamp on the board. 
 

Exactly so. Eberhard's photo of the tug at the NMM shows clearly how it was done with the lantern hung on a flat back plate which actually carries the jackstay rings. Other lanterns have the jackstay rings attached the lamp itself which would be less convenient than leaving the jackstays permanently rigged and slipping the lantern on and off a carrier plate. It should be remembered, however, that the jackstay and running light halyard arrangement might be a bit messy on a sailing ship with all the attendant rigging already running down to the base of the mast and for this reason steam powered vessels carrying auxiliary sails (or sailing vessels with auxiliary steam power) might opt for the "portable" rig whcih was struck down when not in use . The picture below, showing what appears to be more permanent jackline and bracket arrangement is on a steam tug which would not be bothered by additional rigging on and about the mast. Indeed, the backplate seems a bit crudely made and it's possible it was fabricated by the tug's bosun to achieve the convenience it affords in servicing and lighting.
 
 
 
All the lanterns of this era were hung in the same fashion.... or at least all I've ever seen. The back of the lantern has a bent flat metal strap which slides over a "tongue" positioned as may be convenient, either on a flat plate as shown above, or on a light board port and starboard, or on a stern transom or rail as shown in another of Eberhard's photos below. (Interestingly, the stern light shown was originally an oil lamp; as indicated by the permanently mounted "tongue" and strap on the lantern, but the lantern has been electrified as seen by the power cord running into the back of the lantern next to the standing "tongue" bracket.
 

 
In the photo below, a "tongue," rather than a strap, is attached to the back of this port running light to the right of the red curved glass inside the body of the lamp. (The back of the lamp body is a right angle so it will fit neatly into the corner of the light board. This tongue would slide into a strap permanently attached to the light board in order to "hang" the lamp on the board. 
 

Pat, if you don't mind me adding my two cents worth.
 
 In Bob's post #778, I basically copied that lantern. the rings at top and bottom are for the guide lines, we can't see the back but it's not hard to imagine it being something similar to what I've done less the the eyes for the halyard to the deck. I added those to keep all lines separated and to insure the no line came in close contact with a hot lantern.  

You're welcome. It was a pleasure to share something of interest to me that I would not have thought anybody else would have cared about.  
 
Writing the above got me to thinking and doing a bit of googling.
 
With respect to your question about how oil lamps were set at the masthead, I found a matching Tung Woo masthead light, which would be used for powered vessels, for sale for only $500, reduced from $600! (A little rich for my blood. I'll pass on completing my set at the moment!) These have round fairleads on the sides through which lines are run that enable them to be set with a halyard and turning block at the masthead. The lines through the double fairleads keep the lamp from twisting around when it is set aloft. https://www.nauticallights.com/copper-masthead-lantern-tung-woo-small/ This requires a bit of convoluted rigging: a permanent messenger halyard to haul up the lamp and the bight of the double ended "side control lines" running through the fair leads to the masthead aloft. The two falls from the fair leads would then be hauled and belayed port and starboard, at the rails, probably, to keep the light in place. This would, however, eliminate the need for anybody to go aloft to deal with the lamp.
 

 
I also found a matching Tung Woo stern light, which sold on an auction site I've never heard of, for only $38. Now, I would have liked to have found that deal so that I have the sailing light "trifecta" in my "collection." (The prices of this stuff is all over the place.) At least the next time my wife starts in on "my collections of junk around the house," I can now show her the $500 asking price for one of these running lights and assure her that she will be able to get rich selling all "my collections of junk" when they finally slide me under the main brace.  
 
 
 
 

I probably should have put "collection" in quotation marks. It's not like "my collection" is all that impressive from any historical standpoint. It's just that after a lifetime of sailing, I've got a lot of "artifacts" in my shop and around the house. Whenever my wife starts grousing about my "old stuff you're never going to use again," I always tell her it's part of  one of "my collections."    Indeed, I do have real collections, and then there's just "stuff that I don't want to part with."
 
Forty years ago, I lived like an Ewok in a California coast redwood forest and we'd lose our power a half dozen times a winter, sometimes for a few days, so we'd always have oil lamps throughout the house, most not being nautical and what my ex-wife didn't take with her are still around. My marine oil lamp "collection" presently serves as bookends on my library shelves and at my age isn't likely to ever see sea duty again. 
 
I acquired the running lights back in the 1970's when I worked as a salesman for the premier classic yacht brokerage on San Francisco Bay. We brokered the sale of an Alden schooner and they were at the bottom of a pile of junk in the lazarette. The buyer didn't want them and they were on their way to the boatyard dumpster, so... Thank you very much! Picking up goodies like these was one of the perks of the job.
 
A few years back, I was puttering around and had a batch of "CLR" (Calcium-Lime-Rust remover - good stuff!) mixed up to clean out some showerheads, I impulsively tossed the starboard light into the bucket to see how it would do removing the rough copper patina built up on it. Obviously, it worked, but I never got around to doing the port one because I couldn't make up my mind whether I wanted to put the starboard one out to weather to a more even verdigris patina, or clean it up to match the "old penny" finish of the starboard light. The lamp bodies are made of copper. The bails, the "port" and "starboard" badges, and the lamp are made of brass.
 
Tung Woo - Hong Kong running lights:

 

The chimney tops open to access the oil lamp:  

The reflector slides off the lamp burner for ease of polishing:

Below is my anchor lamp made in the US by Perkins Lamp Co. (Later "Perko.") It has a Wedge burner, which was a common off-the-self wick burner. These were manufactured and sold by Perko, (which is still in business,) until, I believe, around 1975 or so. There's one on eBay at the moment that they want $300 bucks for. Some idiot drilled a hole through the oil font in order to electrify it, which ruined it for use as an oil lamp unless the font is patched. Unfortunately, a lot of nice brass and bronze marine lamps were turned into decorator table lamps over the years and you'll pay hell to find the right ones for a classic yacht restoration job these days. https://www.ebay.com/itm/374442771684?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338678874&toolid=20006%26customid%3Ds%3AGS%3Bgc%3A81e12fb7ba20160d1a064b8bd197e985%3Bpt%3A1%3Bchoc%3A1&customid=s%3AGS%3Bgc%3A81e12fb7ba20160d1a064b8bd197e985%3Bpt%3A1%3Bchoc%3A2&msclkid=81e12fb7ba20160d1a064b8bd197e985 There's no doubt that an LED lamp will put out more light than a oil lamp and you don't have to fiddle with cleaning, filling, and trimming the wicks, but it's quite remarkable how much light a correctly trimmed oil lamp can put out and I believe they still meet current navigational signal regulations. I always enjoyed the ritual of lighting my oil anchor lamp as the sun went down when I was spending the night "on the hook." I bought this lamp in the early seventies from a now-long gone chandlery that had then been in business on San Francisco's Fisherman's Wharf (before the wharf became a total tourist trap) for over a hundred years. A friend was the manager there and it was "new old stock" they wanted to get rid of. I think he gave it to me for around fifty bucks, which was at a good discount, but that was still real money in those days, for a kid like me, at least. I kept it and the saloon overhead trawler lamp when I passed my Giles Vertue to a new owner after having her for over 40 years. It's more of a "memento," than part of a "collection."
 
This is a 360 degree light hung in the forward rigging. On the bottom edge (clearly seen in the lower picture) were two bails for attaching a downhaul line. This lamp would be run up on the forestay with the headsail halyard. The downhaul line would be secured so that the lamp would remain vertical and not swing in the wind and also be used to pull the lamp and attached halyard back down to the deck when removing the lamp. The oil font holds enough oil to feed the flame for a night's worth of light while the boat was at anchor. It's about eight or nine inches tall and made entirely of brass. It's quite stunning when polished up, which I haven't done in years, obviously. It was always my practice to remove any lacquer that was applied to quality marine yellow metal to keep it bright and then to polish it regularly. There's quite a difference in appearance and the lacquer degrades after a time and tarnished spots and scratches appear all of the piece. A regular quick rubbing with Nev-R-Dull or Brasso keeps bare brass looking sharp.

 
 

Back when her restoration was completed, she was reportedly going to be homeported at Mystic Seaport, CT. I didn't find her on a quick search of the USCG vessel information database, but I'd be quite surprised if she were not a US flagged vessel with USCG documentation. That would require a hailing port on the transom (or stern quarters) expressed as a city and state. That requirement isn't unique to the US, but rather is required by international law. A Liberian flagged vessel would, for example, carry the hailing port of "Monrovia." A British flagged vessel would carry a hailing port like "Liverpool," and so on. The hailing port has to be written in clear block lettering of no less than a 4" high font. It could be that she was pending transfer of ownership and the new owners intended to register her with a new hailing port. In the US, at least, a registered home port can expose the vessel owner to incurring sales and/or ongoing annual property taxes. (In California we see a lot of Oregon hailing ports on large yachts because, unlike California, Oregon has no sales tax. Just a guess, though.)

Keith, I hope you don't mind me hijacking a little longer?
 
Bob, Eberhard.  Do you think a variation/version of the masthead lantern may have had a detachable backplate to which the lantern proper could be attached?  The backplate would have the guides and having it detachable would negate the need to remove the guide wires / wire jackstays when needing to service the lamp.  Although some guidance suggests the lanterns were stowed, refilled and trimmed daily, what would preclude the lanterns being filled and trimmed on-deck?
 
cheers
 
Pat

I tried making a lantern carrier as is pictured in Eberhard's post #787, first and second photos. It turned out looking like the dog's lunch so I moved on the masthead lantern 2.0. I was going to attach wire eyes to the carrier but it looked so nasty I said to myself, "self, just add the wires directly to the lantern", so that's what i did.
 
 The top eyes are made from a continuous piece of 28 ga annealed wire. The middle eye is made with single twist around a jewelers round nose pliers and then the eyes one either side are a inside loop made with the jewelers pliers. The bottom eyes are made the same. The wired eyes are attached to the lantern with CA. The outside loops are for the guide/stabilizing lines. The middle top and bottom eyes are for the halyard to run through to the deck. The halyard and downhaul line are tied at the base of the middle eyes. The viewer must use their imagination as to how the lines were removed from the lantern via clips and clevis where it could be taken below and serviced, those are just too small to try and replicate. After viewing the photos I need to adjust the eyes to level. 
 
 This temporary lash up has too much slack so the lantern appears a bit wonky but once permanently added to the model with lines under tension the looks will hopefully improve.  
 

 

 

 

 
 Once again, thank you to all who made this lantern project possible. Thank you to all for your kind comments and the likes and thank you to all for having the patience to follow along. 

Even if the wedges were not used to fix the rake of the mast - and I cannot imagine allowing a mast to careen around at the partners,  unless the crew wanted to take showers at the masts on the lower deck(s), something like wedges would be needed to stop rain water or seawater overwash from flooding at the mast-deck gap.  Tightly bound tarred canvas is what I understand covered the wedges on the weather exposed decks.  
Thinking about it, on multi-decked ships, wedges with no covering in place on every deck would serve to spread out the point of force transfer from the spars to the hull.

A great subject to model in the old "builder's model" style of her time. It will be interesting to see what you do with this one!
 
BTW, does anyone know why she doesn't have a hailing port on her transom?

A great subject to model in the old "builder's model" style of her time. It will be interesting to see what you do with this one!
 
BTW, does anyone know why she doesn't have a hailing port on her transom?

Actually, in the Tung Woo lights, there are curved pieces of colored glass, one red, as shown, and the other blue, in brackets inside the lamp behind the Fresnel lens. The Fresnel lenses are both clear and from certain angles in certain light appear clear from the outside when the lamps aren't burning. I believe the thin curved colored glass panes behind the larger clear Fresnel lenses would have been a manufacturing economy.  There is a lot more glass in the Fresnel lenses than in the color panes behind them. Glass is colored with metal oxides. Only the colors created with metals maintain their color intensity without fading in all situations including direct sunlight. A prime example where the capacity to hold color and not fade is critical would be in a running light. Red is the most expensive color of glass because oxidized gold is used to achieve its color. The larger quantity of clear glass used to cast the Fresnel lenses was the least expensive glass of all. 
 
If you look closely, you can see the narrow top edge of the curved pane of glass that slides down the side slots and forms a curved "box" between the glass pane and the back of the Fresnel lens.
 

 
I've always noted that the green light is actually blue with a yellow flame showing green through it, but I can't remember ever seeing a model in a museum that showed a blue starboard oil-burning running light, and I've looked. They all seem to be colored green. Properly, the light board might be painted green, but an oil lamp lens should be blue, or "bluish clear," I suppose. Maybe nobody notices this sort of thing but me. I'm the sort of guy who "clocks" his screws when they show. That's good for extra points on the concours circuit.  

Excellent photos! I'd bet these are the only photographic evidence of the rigging of early steaming lights available on the internet, or anywhere else for that matter.  It speaks well of your "eye" for critical details. A picture is worth a thousand words. If I were judging a model that portrayed such a detail, I'd certainly give it high points and "extra credit" for that!

You're welcome. It was a pleasure to share something of interest to me that I would not have thought anybody else would have cared about.  
 
Writing the above got me to thinking and doing a bit of googling.
 
With respect to your question about how oil lamps were set at the masthead, I found a matching Tung Woo masthead light, which would be used for powered vessels, for sale for only $500, reduced from $600! (A little rich for my blood. I'll pass on completing my set at the moment!) These have round fairleads on the sides through which lines are run that enable them to be set with a halyard and turning block at the masthead. The lines through the double fairleads keep the lamp from twisting around when it is set aloft. https://www.nauticallights.com/copper-masthead-lantern-tung-woo-small/ This requires a bit of convoluted rigging: a permanent messenger halyard to haul up the lamp and the bight of the double ended "side control lines" running through the fair leads to the masthead aloft. The two falls from the fair leads would then be hauled and belayed port and starboard, at the rails, probably, to keep the light in place. This would, however, eliminate the need for anybody to go aloft to deal with the lamp.
 

 
I also found a matching Tung Woo stern light, which sold on an auction site I've never heard of, for only $38. Now, I would have liked to have found that deal so that I have the sailing light "trifecta" in my "collection." (The prices of this stuff is all over the place.) At least the next time my wife starts in on "my collections of junk around the house," I can now show her the $500 asking price for one of these running lights and assure her that she will be able to get rich selling all "my collections of junk" when they finally slide me under the main brace.  
 
 
 
 

I probably should have put "collection" in quotation marks. It's not like "my collection" is all that impressive from any historical standpoint. It's just that after a lifetime of sailing, I've got a lot of "artifacts" in my shop and around the house. Whenever my wife starts grousing about my "old stuff you're never going to use again," I always tell her it's part of  one of "my collections."    Indeed, I do have real collections, and then there's just "stuff that I don't want to part with."
 
Forty years ago, I lived like an Ewok in a California coast redwood forest and we'd lose our power a half dozen times a winter, sometimes for a few days, so we'd always have oil lamps throughout the house, most not being nautical and what my ex-wife didn't take with her are still around. My marine oil lamp "collection" presently serves as bookends on my library shelves and at my age isn't likely to ever see sea duty again. 
 
I acquired the running lights back in the 1970's when I worked as a salesman for the premier classic yacht brokerage on San Francisco Bay. We brokered the sale of an Alden schooner and they were at the bottom of a pile of junk in the lazarette. The buyer didn't want them and they were on their way to the boatyard dumpster, so... Thank you very much! Picking up goodies like these was one of the perks of the job.
 
A few years back, I was puttering around and had a batch of "CLR" (Calcium-Lime-Rust remover - good stuff!) mixed up to clean out some showerheads, I impulsively tossed the starboard light into the bucket to see how it would do removing the rough copper patina built up on it. Obviously, it worked, but I never got around to doing the port one because I couldn't make up my mind whether I wanted to put the starboard one out to weather to a more even verdigris patina, or clean it up to match the "old penny" finish of the starboard light. The lamp bodies are made of copper. The bails, the "port" and "starboard" badges, and the lamp are made of brass.
 
Tung Woo - Hong Kong running lights:

 

The chimney tops open to access the oil lamp:  

The reflector slides off the lamp burner for ease of polishing:

Below is my anchor lamp made in the US by Perkins Lamp Co. (Later "Perko.") It has a Wedge burner, which was a common off-the-self wick burner. These were manufactured and sold by Perko, (which is still in business,) until, I believe, around 1975 or so. There's one on eBay at the moment that they want $300 bucks for. Some idiot drilled a hole through the oil font in order to electrify it, which ruined it for use as an oil lamp unless the font is patched. Unfortunately, a lot of nice brass and bronze marine lamps were turned into decorator table lamps over the years and you'll pay hell to find the right ones for a classic yacht restoration job these days. https://www.ebay.com/itm/374442771684?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338678874&toolid=20006%26customid%3Ds%3AGS%3Bgc%3A81e12fb7ba20160d1a064b8bd197e985%3Bpt%3A1%3Bchoc%3A1&customid=s%3AGS%3Bgc%3A81e12fb7ba20160d1a064b8bd197e985%3Bpt%3A1%3Bchoc%3A2&msclkid=81e12fb7ba20160d1a064b8bd197e985 There's no doubt that an LED lamp will put out more light than a oil lamp and you don't have to fiddle with cleaning, filling, and trimming the wicks, but it's quite remarkable how much light a correctly trimmed oil lamp can put out and I believe they still meet current navigational signal regulations. I always enjoyed the ritual of lighting my oil anchor lamp as the sun went down when I was spending the night "on the hook." I bought this lamp in the early seventies from a now-long gone chandlery that had then been in business on San Francisco's Fisherman's Wharf (before the wharf became a total tourist trap) for over a hundred years. A friend was the manager there and it was "new old stock" they wanted to get rid of. I think he gave it to me for around fifty bucks, which was at a good discount, but that was still real money in those days, for a kid like me, at least. I kept it and the saloon overhead trawler lamp when I passed my Giles Vertue to a new owner after having her for over 40 years. It's more of a "memento," than part of a "collection."
 
This is a 360 degree light hung in the forward rigging. On the bottom edge (clearly seen in the lower picture) were two bails for attaching a downhaul line. This lamp would be run up on the forestay with the headsail halyard. The downhaul line would be secured so that the lamp would remain vertical and not swing in the wind and also be used to pull the lamp and attached halyard back down to the deck when removing the lamp. The oil font holds enough oil to feed the flame for a night's worth of light while the boat was at anchor. It's about eight or nine inches tall and made entirely of brass. It's quite stunning when polished up, which I haven't done in years, obviously. It was always my practice to remove any lacquer that was applied to quality marine yellow metal to keep it bright and then to polish it regularly. There's quite a difference in appearance and the lacquer degrades after a time and tarnished spots and scratches appear all of the piece. A regular quick rubbing with Nev-R-Dull or Brasso keeps bare brass looking sharp.

 
 

"Running lights were an innovation that came first with steam boats, which ran fast and silently, causing collisions with sailing vessels.
 
"In 1838 the United States passed an act requiring steamboats running between sunset and sunrise to carry one or more signal lights; colour, visibility and location were not specified. In 1846 the United Kingdom passed legislation enabling the Lord High Admiral to publish regulations requiring all sea-going steam vessels to carry lights. The admiralty exercised these powers in 1848 and required steam vessels to display red and green sidelights as well as a white masthead light whilst under way and a single white light when at anchor. In 1849 the U.S. Congress extended the light requirements to sailing vessels.
In 1889 the United States convened the first International Maritime Conference to consider regulations for preventing collisions. The resulting Washington Conference Rules were adopted by the U.S. in 1890 and became effective internationally in 1897. Within these rules was the requirement for steamships to carry a second mast head light. The international 1948 Safety of Life at Sea Conference recommended a mandatory second masthead light solely for power-driven vessels over 150 feet (46 m) in length and a fixed stern light for almost all vessels. The regulations have changed little since then."  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Navigation_light
 
Directional port and starboard running lights were customarily carried in the forwardmost mast shrouds just above the deadeyes or turnbuckles where they would not be obscured by overlapping sails. The white stern light was placed on the centerline above the rail. In earlier times, as early as the mid-seventeenth century, naval vessels sailing in convoy would show stern lights so the following vessels would be able to know where they were. At anchor, a 360 degree white light was hung in the rigging forward of the foreward-most mast, usually run up a stay using the headsail halyard.
 
RMS Campagnia and Lucania, Cunard sisterships launched in 1892 and 1893, were the first fully-electrified transatlantic steamships. They were required to carry duplicate sets of running lights, one above the other, one electric and one oil burning, because the authorities did not trust the electric lights!
 
Curiously, the Hong Kong port authorities required oil lamps to be carried and shown by all vessels in the harbor well into the 20th Century and these were required to be those made by a Hong Kong family of coppersmiths. When you arrived in Hong Kong, if you weren't carrying a set of these lights, you had to purchase a set from the customs officers. I have port and starboard examples of these lights in my collection.
 
 
 
 

Not to mention polishing the brass, especially on a naval vessel. In fact, in my own personal experience with marine oil lamps, it isn't generally possible to light an oil lamp outdoors if there's any kind of breeze. They weren't carrying Bic lighters in those days, either. They'd have to take the light from a source with a taper and then light the wick with that.

A great subject to model in the old "builder's model" style of her time. It will be interesting to see what you do with this one!
 
BTW, does anyone know why she doesn't have a hailing port on her transom?

A great subject to model in the old "builder's model" style of her time. It will be interesting to see what you do with this one!
 
BTW, does anyone know why she doesn't have a hailing port on her transom?

It's a fallacy that one needs to turn a mast or spar! After all, full size masts and yards are shaped with hand tools, not on an enormous lathe. Also, in model work, thinner pieces will flex too much and possibly snap if turned, unless well supported.

Glenn has it right. You start with a square section piece of wood, then make the round part by planing it eight-square, then sand it round. To make a round dowel square means that the square part will be too small in section.

Work the other direction, start with square stock and round it below. An Ibex finger plane is a great tool and another option 

I think you likely identified the lantern rig.
 
The second picture shows, btw, another feature that one doesn't see too often on photographs and extremely rarely on museum models, let allone on amateur models: a sailcloth ventilator. It is just forward to the lantern halliards.
Off the top of my head I only recall an instruction model in the Museu de Marinha, Bélém (Lisbon), the frigate ULYSSES of 1792:

The same model shows another very rarely seen feature: chafing gear as applied to the deadeyes in preparation for long crossings:

 

Newly discovered info is exciting for sure......remembering that many Naval customs did not find their way into civilian practice....or vise-versa.
 
I just wanted you to feel comfortable with the slight diversion....though it did pertain to your subject....originally.  Like many sub-subjects.....group think, can sometimes run amok from the original posters log direction.
 
Sall-good, it appears, since old nautical oil lamps are, sometimes the only artifact we can acquire for our personal collections that fit in our limited display space.
 

 
Rob

Actually, in the Tung Woo lights, there are curved pieces of colored glass, one red, as shown, and the other blue, in brackets inside the lamp behind the Fresnel lens. The Fresnel lenses are both clear and from certain angles in certain light appear clear from the outside when the lamps aren't burning. I believe the thin curved colored glass panes behind the larger clear Fresnel lenses would have been a manufacturing economy.  There is a lot more glass in the Fresnel lenses than in the color panes behind them. Glass is colored with metal oxides. Only the colors created with metals maintain their color intensity without fading in all situations including direct sunlight. A prime example where the capacity to hold color and not fade is critical would be in a running light. Red is the most expensive color of glass because oxidized gold is used to achieve its color. The larger quantity of clear glass used to cast the Fresnel lenses was the least expensive glass of all. 
 
If you look closely, you can see the narrow top edge of the curved pane of glass that slides down the side slots and forms a curved "box" between the glass pane and the back of the Fresnel lens.
 

 
I've always noted that the green light is actually blue with a yellow flame showing green through it, but I can't remember ever seeing a model in a museum that showed a blue starboard oil-burning running light, and I've looked. They all seem to be colored green. Properly, the light board might be painted green, but an oil lamp lens should be blue, or "bluish clear," I suppose. Maybe nobody notices this sort of thing but me. I'm the sort of guy who "clocks" his screws when they show. That's good for extra points on the concours circuit.