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timjina

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Posts posted by timjina

  1. Hi beautiful work........ Have you thought of using either 3mm clear acrylic or perspex for your ship instead of glass. I use Acrylic sheet all the time I always have some in stock and can cut it on the table saw without travelling to the Glass people. It's cheaper and lighter.and the overall look is the same with the same transparency. All the best from Australia ,you're doing some good work.

  2. On 1/6/2021 at 4:13 PM, gak1965 said:

    A bit unrelated, but the case for my US Brig Niagara arrived from BlueJacket.  I need to find a glazier to buy and install the glass, but it will be nice to protect the ship (photo below).

     

    You don't realize how big these things are until you get a case the case. The ships are so delicate, but the cases aren't.

    IMG_20200921_235013599.jpg

     

  3. On 8/31/2021 at 11:38 AM, Bill97 said:

    Have any of you guys watched the movie Master and Commander with Russell Crowe?  I watched it again this evening. First time watching it since I started the Victory. If you have not seen it you need to.  Admiral Nelson is discussed at length by the crew of the ship in the movie. I don’t know where this movie was filmed or how, but the realism of the ship was incredible to include the rigging. Look for it if you have not seen it. 

    Hi ,Jim here. If any members are interested in how movies are made , there are a couple of great things on YOUTUBE re the making of Master and Commander. ...very well done and very interesting.....

    Having worked in stage and film production all my life it was good to see some behind the scene stuff once again. Hope you guys like it...All the best from Australia.

  4. On 7/8/2020 at 8:14 AM, PJG said:

    Mast, mast rigging and line tub rope:

     

    pic55.jpg.86a3f36d5780c92f7a2f38f1fedc18d7.jpg

     

    pic56.jpg.4204e494704725d0522e938a023ebb9e.jpg

     

    The dowel provided for the mast was warped like the others in my kit so I used a 1/4" piece I had in my scrap box. I'm not 100% sure what species the wood is but it took a lot of sanding to get it thinned and tapered to match the plans. Drilling holes by hand took time as well. On the bright side, it's perfectly straight.

     

    pic57.jpg.e6008b08dbf1fd776f1a80bb3cdba668.jpg

     

    I made my "wooden" mast hoops with paper. I have a limitless supply of paper sample books from 35 years as a graphic designer and take advantage of the various textures and weights to make all kinds of things. After applying my wood paint job I added a 50/50 wood glue/water mixture to stiffen and protect them.

     

    pic58.jpg.7f46d6dfd0188bd5eff9bd7c880ee4d5.jpg

     

    The shrouds are one long piece with a served hoop in the middle that slips over the top of the mast and rest on the shoulders. 

     

    pic59.thumb.jpg.44115ffda433ca6e9972e7fabd049de5.jpg

     

    The shrouds/stays (not sure which, if either, is the correct term?) run through the thimbles and back up to a loop that's spliced into the line. Everything is tightened with a slipped hitch later. I made my mast hinge hardware less bulky than the photo-etch provided in the kit simply because the reference photos I've looked at seem to indicate something more subtle. I knew I was going to bang it up a little and paint to a wrought iron finish so photo-etch wasn't going to work. The hinge hardware and the oar lock inserts are also paper, same as the mast hoops. 

     

    pic60.thumb.jpg.dca69439256dcb1a101db0364f365eaa.jpg

     

    A better look at the mast rigging. 

     

    pic63.jpg.0be1b35c8fe498d57f35dc53b62236cf.jpg

     

    Adding the lovely Syren rope to the line tubs. The stuff in the kit is awful.

     

    pic61.thumb.jpg.2abd1c16d83d51320af19e1a61f542fe.jpg

     

    I made sure to place the tubs in the boat to be sure the line was entering and exiting in the correct positions. The tubs will be lashed to the thwarts so making sure those lanyards are positioned correctly when everything is finally staged is important. 

     

     

     

     

    The whole build has just been a pleasure to watch. I especially like your color scheme and weathering. The weathering has mae all the difference and small things like nails done with pencil etc. This is a build you can be justly proud of. My next boat is the Fifie as well . 

    Thank you once again for allowing me to stare over your shoulder at a beautiful build .

    Take care and stay safe during these COVID times ......Jim Cleland ....Aldinga Beach ......South Australia

  5. When the saw came out of the box, did it come with a fence.....(The straight edge used as a guide for your respective timber)...If not I see this as your major problem. By pushing timber through a saw without a fence the material will want to take it's own course . With a fence or guide ,you are in control.All a guide is ( to make up one) is a length of hardwood 25mmx25mm or 1 "x1"cl;amp it both sides to your desired thickness of the finished cut and away you go .....NOTE always make sure the fence is parallell to the saw blade...hope this is of some help....Have a good day and stay COVID safe

  6. Hi my fellow model makers I'm writing in defence of putting sails on models. As we all have seen some models with and some without sails and I will say from the outset apart from furled sails ,a lot look unrealistic. However I have discovered a small clip on YOUTUBE  It is a sales clip for Captain Cooks Endeavour and shows the ship with sails. The sails are nearly all in different stages of being dropped or unfurled and none look tight or false.  The builder of the model displays a mastery of depicting a model with sails and I have used the clip a few times freezing it at different stages to get a better look. I would really enjoy it if the model maker had a master class on YOUTUBE.....I also really enjoy Tom Lauria's master classes also on YOUTUBE there is one depicting realistic sail placement.....I hope this is of some help.......We have an amazing hobby....Take care during this Corona virus

  7. Hi guys, after persevering with threads that come with kits and getting frustrated . I have now discovered waxed thread ( the type used for leather work. ) It comes in all different thicknesses and colors. 

    I find it very easy to work with E.G. threading through blocks etc as it maintains a straight line and sharp point. I do however always drill my blocks out prior to threading, it makes the process so much easier.

    The finished result ( to me at least ) is very acceptable.I always buy on lineusing EBAY and the thread comes from China at a very inexpensive cost and freight free The company who make the thread is GALACES.

    It does have a slight sheen in some light so when a model is finished or a separate section I'm working on is complete I will brush over it with a water based flat clear finish ( this also seals the knot.

    I hope this is some assistance to someone. As I say it works for me and being able to buy in various thicknesses and colors is a great advantage. All I type in is LEATHER WORK THREAD and a whole list of stockists pop up on ebay.

    Happy building to you all....we have an amazing hobby.....I pity a person retiring who hasn't a hobby........JIM CLELAND

  8. I think a lot of  builders are making it hard for yourself. I always stay well clear of oil and spirit based paints and never us finishing oils like Tung oil etc on my work............There are so many lovely acrylic paints on the market ( just remember it's a model and not a real ship) in saying that, you will obtain a more realistic finish with acrylics and they will be a lot more forgiving for you. To obtain a color as close to the real thing as possible, all I do is go to the local hardware or paint shop and look at the 1000's of color swatches they have. When I have selected the right swatch ,I buy a sample pot. Some stores will mix in flat or semigloss .I also have on the shelf a clear  acrylic varnish although I hardly ever use it.  All I pay is around $ 5.00 for 300ml and that will last many models.. I hope this is of some help. Acrylics are all I use and have never been disappointed. The drying time is fast as well, enabling a fine sand after about an hour if needed. All the best to you and happy modelling...We have an amazing hobby, take care.....Jim

  9. Hi there shipmates, has any one heard of  ZHL MODEL SHIPS. I was just browsing the net last night, as we all do, and came across this manufacturer in China. Looking on YOUTUBE the kits look to be rather extensive in what they offer and their pricing is very competitive. I would just like to know if anyone has bought a kit and what is it like compared to our other manufacturers like MODEL SHIPWAYS etc. Thanks guys it is just a querie . Happy ship building to you all ....We have the best hobby there is and the comaraderie is second to none.....best regards....Jim

  10. I'm sorry Ihaven't answered before . I've just seen the query. I'm building the same kit of the Endeavour

    The kit came with A3 drawings in the correct size so it is possible to scale direct from the drawings.

    The instruction book is totally irrelevent. Very badly constructed and not worth reading.

    If your Fatherinlaw can get the drawings that is all he will need.

    I would try direct contact to Artesania Latina and requesting purchasing them, in my opinion I wouldn't worry about the instruction book.

    Conversely he could look on this amazing site as there are many members building the A.L. kit along with many pictures...

    I hope this helps....All the best...Jim Cleland

  11. Hi to you all on this incredible site. I've been modelling for most of my life, starting at around 7 with Airfix planes and graduating through the ranks to finally wooden boat building (which I think is the epitome of modelling) 

    I'm 70 years of age and always wake with a project in mind. My wife and I have been happily married for 47 years ...no children by choice. She is an artist and I have spent most of my life in theatre designing ,building and painting sets. 

    We live in a beautiful part of South Australia called The Fleurieu Peninsula. Our home is near the ocean and we have some of Australia's best wine on our doorstep. Our area specialises in Shiraz and has won many awards over many years.

    We are both fortunate to have a workshop each. My wife has her studio filled with skylights and a magnificent view over the ocean while I have my workshop with numerous tools etc.

    We have both been retired for about 5 years and travelled extensively seeing what our beautiful country has to offer

    .Since retirement I've finished the AL...Scot tish Maid and am currently building the A,L. ...Bluenose11.....I like the Artesania Kits but the next one will be the Charles W. Morgan by Model Shipways......I consider the Model Shipways company to be the epitome of model kits  

    Well my friends that's all for now ,happy boat building to you all and I thank you all for some amazing insights to our incredible hobby.

  12. Hi all model makers. I love our hobby ,the only thing that scares me when building is doing the name on the boat and scroll work if needed. I grew up with applying decals to all my plastic kits and that was easy.   However ,  I'm just about nearing the end of the Bluenose by Model Shipways . The build has been a labour of love but always in the back of my mind was the dreaded lettering and scroll work , If you could offer some advice I would be most grateful. Thank you all and happy boat building....Jim

  13. Beautiful work Tim, you must be proud. What is your next kit?  I have the Scottish Maid ,  Endeavour and Bluenose 11.... So far have half completed the Scottish Maid..... It's a great hobby . Been building models since I was a young boy. Now 70. It's the perfect retirement hobby (for me anyway). Once again congratulations on a museum quality build....Jim Cleland.... South  Australia

  14. Hi, just wondering,(and it may sound quite absurd

    as I know there are some master ship modelers amongst you ) are there places that sell scale Coming in sheets  so a modeler can cut out to size and frame it. Thank you for not laughing as I was just wondering. I have made some over the years but to be able to buy direct and to scale would be amazing.  Good health to you all......Jim Cleland.....Australia

  15. Beautiful work Gary. The Benjamin w. is a nice looking craft. I have it on the shelf here in the workshop. Currently building The Scottish Maid but very much looking forward to opening the Benjamin W. box. Retirement is a wonderful time ,I feel sorry for people who don't have hobbies,every dy I wake with new dreams to conquer. Well done once again.....Jim Cleland

  16. On 2/22/2017 at 5:45 AM, Worldway said:

    When I purchased the Bluenose from Model Shipways I also purchased the accompanying paint set. 

     

    I had seen some bad reviews about Model Expo's paints.  However I'm not sure if the Model Expo's paints are the same as the Model Shipway's paints.

     

    It was a small investment to get the paint.  I was more concerned about getting the colours right.  Should I go ahead and use this paint or should I throw my investment in the trash and go another route.  I plan on using a brush and not airbrushing.  If in fact this paint is not recommended, is there something I can do (use thinners etc) to still use it.

     

    Your comments would be most appreciated.

    If anyone comes across this problem and the paint is unusable or hard to use . I make some color swatches from the original paint purchase then, go to the hardware store where they will scan the color on their computer and supply the exact  colors in sample pots. In Australia the sample pots have enough paint for many ships and their cost is minimal .....around $7.00....... Hope this helps someone.

  17. On 1/20/2017 at 10:53 PM, bhermann said:

    Capt. Jack - I used Testors Model Master acrylics in painting Bluenose.  Four colors - Insignia Red, Blue Angels Yellow, Flat Black, and Flat White.  I did prime and sand the surfaces before applying final coats.

     

    I recommend flat paints as they tend to scale better.  Gloss paints will pop, but to my eye they look a bit unrealistic.

     

    Bob

    I realise it's probably of little use now, but someone might like my advice. I agree with Bob ,sailing vessels of older vintage like Bluenose etc would have always been painted in flat paints ( although even so called flat paint will sometimes have a 5-10% sheen) I just think like Bob flat paints give a more realistic look.

     

  18. Beautiful work Tim, I'm half way through the Scottish Maid and your work is exceptional.....well done. 

    My next build will be either the Benjamin W, Latham or Bluenose 11 . I like the shape of the cutters .

    Once again well done and good to see other Aussies on this fantastic site . I have no friends who are into modelling so when I found this site I was really excited.

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