Pirate adam
NRG Member-
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About Pirate adam

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Canute reacted to a post in a topic:
2x2x24 boxes for organizing wood strips
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Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Chuck - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF - prototype build
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2x2x24 boxes for organizing wood strips
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HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
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Chuck, I actually looked into AI for STl files after reading one of your other posts a few days ago. It seems there is almost no end to what is possible with really sharp pictures from the historic (or modern) models. Another thing that is becoming commonly available is handheld 3D scanners. Even huge things are now being scanned with LIDAR scanners. Of course this requires more access than most of us will ever have but I can see the museums being open to scanning things over time for archival purposes. I used to have second thoughts about the role of 3D printing stuff like carvings and small parts, but I have really come around to the benefit of allowing those of us that are pretty crafty but not necessarily artistic to take on models of almost any subject. I think it is an amazing enabler for the hobby. I love what you are doing. Adam
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HMS Thorn by Kevin Kenny - 1:48 scale - Swan-class - David Antscherl practium
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Pirate adam reacted to a post in a topic:
Washington 1776 by KenW - 1:48 - Continental galley from NRG plans
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Pirate adam reacted to a post in a topic:
La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
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La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
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La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
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BradNSW reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
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La Créole 1827 by archjofo - Scale 1/48 - French corvette
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Johann, I continue to be amazed by the detail of your research combined with the level of craftsmanship on your model. It is inspiring how much work you have put into answering questions related to details most people would just skip over. I hope you realize your build log is surely becoming one of the most valuable resources related to rigging in this period available on the internet. Thank you very much for sharing. Adam
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Chuck, This is a cool idea for hopefully making the hobby a lot more accessible for people just getting started or who don’t have the tools to scratch build a lot of the tiny bits. It is amazing seeing the possibilities being unlocked by laser cutting, computer aided machining, and 3D printing. I am blown away by the quality of the latest things I am seeing with 3D printed carvings, figures, and bits like your capstan base that would normally take a ton of work in metal. Adam
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SS Klondike II by John Ruy - 1/8” = 1’ (1/96 scale) - Sternwheeler Riverboat
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Pirate adam reacted to a post in a topic:
Beavers Prize 1777 by Mike Y - 1:48 - POF - Hahn style
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Pirate adam reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
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Pirate adam reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
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I formed the knight heads on the top of the bollard timbers. I just used chisels, files, etc. The shape on my admiralty draught was relatively easy to form. Next step will be to file in the opening for the bowsprit and its chock. I hope not to encounter another piece on the ship as complicated as the bollards. Adam
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Pirate adam reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
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I then removed the frames from the model and pulled them apart. This was super easy due to label paper on the frames. I then cut down each frame using the mill to create the air gaps. I won't even get into how many hawse timbers I made to get to this point before everything looked right and fits properly with the first cant frame. Next I will file in the hawse holes per the instructions in the Swan practicum. I also still need to do a bit of shaping of the bollards to get them to fit properly on the tapered stem, and then I will try to shape the knight heads. Adam
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Finally some progress on the pointy end. I cut out the frames in the usual manner. I printed out an extra set of frame drawing, so I could add them to both sides of the frames. I did some pre-beveling, and then glued all the frames together into 2 stacks (not shown). I then did some shaping on the inside and outside of the frames before temporarily attaching to the stem. I marked the heights for the hawse holes and the level of the material that will remain when I cut the air gaps.
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Pear, boxwood, and holly would all work great depending on the look you are going for. I would recommend looking through the various build logs and seeing if there is a certain look you like more than others. I would probably go with wipe on poly vs tung for some of the lighter woods, as it can give a bit of an orangish hue over time that probably isn’t what you are going for. I definitely love the look of tung oil on pear or cherry. Adam
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This is normal. The frames you are referring to as floating are simply single frames vs. the other frames which are doubled. Keep in mind the futtocks are still bolted to the one below with chocks or scarphs just like all the others. Surely this is not as strong as a doubled frame, but it gives 2 advantages. Firstly lighter weight high in the ship where weight isn't desirable. Secondly the gaps between frames were meant to help keep the wood dry. Keep in mind these were still enormous pieces of wood in real life. Those frames will be more delicate when you are building the model, but you will find the assembly to be plenty strong once combined with the various wales, planking, etc. You can find lots of examples on build logs on the site including the various Swan class models. I suspect the frames become cant frames starting at station 23, but I couldn't say with the information in the drawing. Adam
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