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Pirate adam

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About Pirate adam

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  1.    DaveRow reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
  2.    Pirate adam reacted to a post in a topic: L'Invention 1799 by Greg Davis - Scale 1:48
  3.    BradNSW reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
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  12.    Pirate adam reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
  13.    Pirate adam reacted to a post in a topic: Amanda F Lewis 1884 by SardonicMeow - Scale 1:48 - Chesapeake Bay pungy
  14. Pirate adam
    I've started attaching the aft cant frames. No more until I add some basswood spacers at the top of the frames. Soon I will also start fairing the internal part of the stern before too much more gets in the way. Adam
  15. Pirate adam
    I finished gluing up the aft cant frames. My plan is to simulate the frame bolts with copper wire and blacken any exposed bolts on the model with liver of sulfur after fairing. I used wire labeled 0.019" diameter to simulate scale bolts 7/8" diameter. There are 2 types of joints on the cant frames. One type uses chocks and the other a simple scarph joint. I wanted to save some time laying out the bolt patterns on the frames, so I printed up some guides on label paper. I found that to work great. I drilled the holes using a micro drilling accessory on the Sherline lathe. I broke my last drill bit, so no more holes until I find some more. Adam
  16. Pirate adam
    This is so much fun to watch. It really makes you feel like you are at the actual shipyard. Amazing work. Adam
  17. Pirate adam
    Cutting of frames for the chocks. I cut these using the Sherline mill. I simplified the chocks a bit by not beveling them. I only cut to the depth of what would be the shallower side so as to not expose the nose of the chock when the frames are faired. The chocks are a bit funny looking now due to the excess wood outside the actual frame lines. One side of the chock will be a bit off after fairing, but I don't think they will be especially visible when the frames are glued up anyway. I used regular scarph joints for the top timbers. I will pin them later with copper wire to simulate bolts. Here are two sample frames. With a bit of alcohol just to highlight the joints. I'm pretty happy with the look so far. There are 117 frames to do in total counting the hawse timbers, but the nice thing is they are a great project to work on just a bit a day after work. Adam
  18. Pirate adam
    Wow that looks amazing Mark! Great work. Very impressive actually painting it on. Adam
  19.    Pirate adam reacted to a post in a topic: USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
  20.    Pirate adam reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Thorn by Kevin Kenny - 1:48 scale - Swan-class - David Antscherl practium
  21.    Pirate adam reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
  22. Pirate adam
    I forgot to show my high tech gluing setup. I glue them on a small plate of glass and weigh them down with a flashlight.
  23. Pirate adam
    Picture with a bit more resolution.
  24. Pirate adam
    Here I have begun to glue up the aft cant frames. I will cut the spaces later for the chocks using the mill.
  25. Pirate adam
    With the transom shenanigans out of the way I am finally ready to start making frames. Here I have marked out the blanks for the aft cant frames. The black lines are the actual lines for the frames. I added the green lines to make sure I have plenty of wood for fairing the cant frames as well as to make sure the frames are sufficiently tall. Experience tells me that I just can't help myself when it comes to leaving enough wood otherwise. Familiar sight for anyone who has built POF. Adam
  26. Pirate adam
    I made a slightly larger building board to provide a bit more room to install the frames at the ends of the model. Long story short, when I setup the new build board I found some issues with the alignment of the transoms and aft fashion piece. I have known for a while that something wasn't right with the alignment, and happy to figure it out before doing a ton more work. I envisioned this would be a problem that would follow me through the whole build, so got out the isopropyl and re-built the transoms and aft fashion pieces. I also used the opportunity to add a 4th filling frame which looks much better to my eyes. Adam
  27. Pirate adam
    I think it would be a shame to paint it black. The wood is beautiful. Adam
  28. Pirate adam
    I love this. Great work Greg
  29. Pirate adam
    It is pretty straightforward. Dividing the circumference in inches by 3.14 will give you the diameter in inches. Then just divide by 48 to get the scale diameter in inches. example: 6 circumference rope. Divide by 3.14 gives 1.91" diameter rope. Divide by 48 to get 0.0398" diameter in real life for 1/48 scale. Adam
  30.    Pirate adam reacted to a post in a topic: Roter Löwe 1597 by Ondras71
  31. Pirate adam
    I can verify that the Anatomy of the Ship Armed Transport Bounty book has tables of the various ropes in the rigging. It would make a nice reference for anyone building a model. Adam
  32. Pirate adam
    This seems like a very sensible plan for the long term. Getting away from the need to source large quantities of wood should simplify things immensely. I was able to see the 3D printed Syren blocks for the first time at the Northeast clubs show and was pretty blown away. Looking forward to seeing some of the other parts you come up with now that you have mastered the printing technology. Cool thing about moving away from the kits is we will likely see a much bigger variety of models being created by people using Syren parts. Adam

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