Pirate adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
Knee of the head Mk. II. I messed up the first one when I was sanding the backside to fit the stem. I learned my lesson and made up a sanding block with the same profile of the stem to sand back the second version. This time I used brown artists pigment mixed into the Titebond glue. The lines are hardly visible, but show up nicely when the wood is damp. I will stick to that approach for the rest of the build. The stem, keel, and knee of the head are just on the bench for show and not glued up yet.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from allanyed in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
Knee of the head Mk. II. I messed up the first one when I was sanding the backside to fit the stem. I learned my lesson and made up a sanding block with the same profile of the stem to sand back the second version. This time I used brown artists pigment mixed into the Titebond glue. The lines are hardly visible, but show up nicely when the wood is damp. I will stick to that approach for the rest of the build. The stem, keel, and knee of the head are just on the bench for show and not glued up yet.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from jpalmer1970 in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
Knee of the head Mk. II. I messed up the first one when I was sanding the backside to fit the stem. I learned my lesson and made up a sanding block with the same profile of the stem to sand back the second version. This time I used brown artists pigment mixed into the Titebond glue. The lines are hardly visible, but show up nicely when the wood is damp. I will stick to that approach for the rest of the build. The stem, keel, and knee of the head are just on the bench for show and not glued up yet.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from Thukydides in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
Knee of the head Mk. II. I messed up the first one when I was sanding the backside to fit the stem. I learned my lesson and made up a sanding block with the same profile of the stem to sand back the second version. This time I used brown artists pigment mixed into the Titebond glue. The lines are hardly visible, but show up nicely when the wood is damp. I will stick to that approach for the rest of the build. The stem, keel, and knee of the head are just on the bench for show and not glued up yet.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from Thukydides in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
I diverted from the steps in TFFM to build the knee of the head. I will work on fairing this piece to the stem and then put it away for safekeeping until the fore cants and hawse timbers have been installed. It still needs to be tapered in both directions and the slot for the gammoning cleaned up a bit.
I used druxey's recommendation of painting the edges of the joints brown before gluing. I like the way it turned out. I am expecting some powdered brown pigments from the Amazon guy today that I will try mixing with glue going forward.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from yvesvidal in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
I diverted from the steps in TFFM to build the knee of the head. I will work on fairing this piece to the stem and then put it away for safekeeping until the fore cants and hawse timbers have been installed. It still needs to be tapered in both directions and the slot for the gammoning cleaned up a bit.
I used druxey's recommendation of painting the edges of the joints brown before gluing. I like the way it turned out. I am expecting some powdered brown pigments from the Amazon guy today that I will try mixing with glue going forward.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from dvm27 in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
I diverted from the steps in TFFM to build the knee of the head. I will work on fairing this piece to the stem and then put it away for safekeeping until the fore cants and hawse timbers have been installed. It still needs to be tapered in both directions and the slot for the gammoning cleaned up a bit.
I used druxey's recommendation of painting the edges of the joints brown before gluing. I like the way it turned out. I am expecting some powdered brown pigments from the Amazon guy today that I will try mixing with glue going forward.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
I diverted from the steps in TFFM to build the knee of the head. I will work on fairing this piece to the stem and then put it away for safekeeping until the fore cants and hawse timbers have been installed. It still needs to be tapered in both directions and the slot for the gammoning cleaned up a bit.
I used druxey's recommendation of painting the edges of the joints brown before gluing. I like the way it turned out. I am expecting some powdered brown pigments from the Amazon guy today that I will try mixing with glue going forward.
Adam
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Pirate adam reacted to allanyed in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
I agree, burnt umber is a better choice.
Allan
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Pirate adam reacted to druxey in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
Lookin' good, P.A.
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Pirate adam got a reaction from davyboy in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
I diverted from the steps in TFFM to build the knee of the head. I will work on fairing this piece to the stem and then put it away for safekeeping until the fore cants and hawse timbers have been installed. It still needs to be tapered in both directions and the slot for the gammoning cleaned up a bit.
I used druxey's recommendation of painting the edges of the joints brown before gluing. I like the way it turned out. I am expecting some powdered brown pigments from the Amazon guy today that I will try mixing with glue going forward.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from cotrecerf in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
I diverted from the steps in TFFM to build the knee of the head. I will work on fairing this piece to the stem and then put it away for safekeeping until the fore cants and hawse timbers have been installed. It still needs to be tapered in both directions and the slot for the gammoning cleaned up a bit.
I used druxey's recommendation of painting the edges of the joints brown before gluing. I like the way it turned out. I am expecting some powdered brown pigments from the Amazon guy today that I will try mixing with glue going forward.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from AnobiumPunctatum in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
I diverted from the steps in TFFM to build the knee of the head. I will work on fairing this piece to the stem and then put it away for safekeeping until the fore cants and hawse timbers have been installed. It still needs to be tapered in both directions and the slot for the gammoning cleaned up a bit.
I used druxey's recommendation of painting the edges of the joints brown before gluing. I like the way it turned out. I am expecting some powdered brown pigments from the Amazon guy today that I will try mixing with glue going forward.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from jpalmer1970 in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
I diverted from the steps in TFFM to build the knee of the head. I will work on fairing this piece to the stem and then put it away for safekeeping until the fore cants and hawse timbers have been installed. It still needs to be tapered in both directions and the slot for the gammoning cleaned up a bit.
I used druxey's recommendation of painting the edges of the joints brown before gluing. I like the way it turned out. I am expecting some powdered brown pigments from the Amazon guy today that I will try mixing with glue going forward.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
I diverted from the steps in TFFM to build the knee of the head. I will work on fairing this piece to the stem and then put it away for safekeeping until the fore cants and hawse timbers have been installed. It still needs to be tapered in both directions and the slot for the gammoning cleaned up a bit.
I used druxey's recommendation of painting the edges of the joints brown before gluing. I like the way it turned out. I am expecting some powdered brown pigments from the Amazon guy today that I will try mixing with glue going forward.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from westwood in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
I diverted from the steps in TFFM to build the knee of the head. I will work on fairing this piece to the stem and then put it away for safekeeping until the fore cants and hawse timbers have been installed. It still needs to be tapered in both directions and the slot for the gammoning cleaned up a bit.
I used druxey's recommendation of painting the edges of the joints brown before gluing. I like the way it turned out. I am expecting some powdered brown pigments from the Amazon guy today that I will try mixing with glue going forward.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from druxey in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
I diverted from the steps in TFFM to build the knee of the head. I will work on fairing this piece to the stem and then put it away for safekeeping until the fore cants and hawse timbers have been installed. It still needs to be tapered in both directions and the slot for the gammoning cleaned up a bit.
I used druxey's recommendation of painting the edges of the joints brown before gluing. I like the way it turned out. I am expecting some powdered brown pigments from the Amazon guy today that I will try mixing with glue going forward.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from CiscoH in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Erik W - 1:48 scale
My experience with blackening fluid is it seems to work better when dramatically diluted with water (think 90% water). This slows down the chemical reaction and helps prevent the thick buildup of black that comes right off. I dip it for 20 or 30 seconds several times until I get the color I want. It is important to keep that stuff out of your eyes, etc. though. Painting is easier if you want a pure black color. I think most of the iron was painted black in real life.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from mtaylor in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Erik W - 1:48 scale
My experience with blackening fluid is it seems to work better when dramatically diluted with water (think 90% water). This slows down the chemical reaction and helps prevent the thick buildup of black that comes right off. I dip it for 20 or 30 seconds several times until I get the color I want. It is important to keep that stuff out of your eyes, etc. though. Painting is easier if you want a pure black color. I think most of the iron was painted black in real life.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
I experimented with adding some brown acrylic paint to some Titebond glue. I liked the look of the joint on some test pieces. I may have added too much paint though, as I was able to pull the test pieces apart rather easily after the glue had dried. I will parallel path trying druxey's approach of painting the edges along with just adding less paint to the glue.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from Ryland Craze in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Erik W - 1:48 scale
My experience with blackening fluid is it seems to work better when dramatically diluted with water (think 90% water). This slows down the chemical reaction and helps prevent the thick buildup of black that comes right off. I dip it for 20 or 30 seconds several times until I get the color I want. It is important to keep that stuff out of your eyes, etc. though. Painting is easier if you want a pure black color. I think most of the iron was painted black in real life.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from Canute in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Erik W - 1:48 scale
My experience with blackening fluid is it seems to work better when dramatically diluted with water (think 90% water). This slows down the chemical reaction and helps prevent the thick buildup of black that comes right off. I dip it for 20 or 30 seconds several times until I get the color I want. It is important to keep that stuff out of your eyes, etc. though. Painting is easier if you want a pure black color. I think most of the iron was painted black in real life.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from Erik W in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Erik W - 1:48 scale
My experience with blackening fluid is it seems to work better when dramatically diluted with water (think 90% water). This slows down the chemical reaction and helps prevent the thick buildup of black that comes right off. I dip it for 20 or 30 seconds several times until I get the color I want. It is important to keep that stuff out of your eyes, etc. though. Painting is easier if you want a pure black color. I think most of the iron was painted black in real life.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from jpalmer1970 in HMS Crocodile 1781 by Pirate adam - 1/48 scale - POF
I experimented with adding some brown acrylic paint to some Titebond glue. I liked the look of the joint on some test pieces. I may have added too much paint though, as I was able to pull the test pieces apart rather easily after the glue had dried. I will parallel path trying druxey's approach of painting the edges along with just adding less paint to the glue.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from mtaylor in Le Redoutable by Oliver1973 - 1/48 - POF - based on own reconstruction
I love seeing your 3D drafting in parallel with the construction of the model. It is a work of art as well.
Adam
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