Glenn-UK
-
Posts
2,802 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Glenn-UK
-
Hi David Thanks, they don't cost a lot of money, and came with some other bits and pieces I had bought, including the Mantua 8151 plank bender. -
Tested small washers and found they are 1mm thick using my measuring new tool from CMB. These washers are ideal for checking gun port strip 270 correctly aligned 1mm above quarterdeck between bulkhead 6 & 9.
-
Hello Derek I have been looking through your build, well done so far, I will continue to look through your build as I progress on with my build. I'm at the start of my build and noted on the first page of your log you fitted battens to the lower gun ports on the back of the strips, but these seem to be below the gun port opening is there ant reason for this? I'm about to start fitting battens around my gun port lids prior to assembly of the gun port strips (270, 271 and 272) and would have thought the would battens fit flush with the gun port opening. Glenn
-
Hi I to have plans to visit the Victory sometime this year.
-
Hi I opted for the Caldercraft (JoTika) kit after much research. I have been impressed so far although I'm only a few hours into the build. I did have a problem, and found JoTika to be very supportive. Glenn
-
Hi Gary Thanks for the heads up once, hopefully we can help each other along the way, do you have a build log? Once I have the gun port strips fitted I will look at the fitting for the dummy gun barrels and note your comments regarding using a 1.7mmm drill. Glenn
-
Hi Gil I've just start on my build of the HMS Victory, just getting ready to fit the gun port lining strips (270, 271 & 272). Its the wealth on information from the experienced builders like yourself on the MSW build logs which provides me with the confidence to tackle the challenges ahead that this boat build will undoubtedly throw up along the way. Many Thanks.
- 753 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- finished
- caldercraft
- (and 1 more)
-
Hello David You have done an outstanding job so far, keep up the hard work and you'll soon be over the finish line. Glenn
-
Hi David I plan to take my time with the first gun port strips as you suggest as I know it is very important to get right. I could have pushed on with it tonight but realised it would have been foolhardy to do so. I note your comments on the rear bulkheads, as any excess can be filed away.
-
Hi Patrick Many thanks for the advise, I will revisit the black painting as I continue to test fitted the gun ports strips to check what bits I have missed, as you say probably the floor areas. I also need to pay a visit to the local model shop to get some balsa strips for the gun port battens, trouble is the shop shuts at 4 and I finish work at 5 and its too far away to get there in my lunch 30 minutes. So I will also check the local late opening DIY store to see if they have suitable strips of wood. Also looking for some 1mm shims to confirm final position of top gun port strips at bulkheads 6 to 9. I have filed down a strip of wood to approx 1mm but need to borrow a micrometer from our engineering dept. to confirm dims.
-
Managed to get 90 minutes in the shipwrights office today. Started off fitting the stern extensions, checking they were square to bulkhead 18. Then fitted the bow supports, but had to reshape the top bow supports (40) to ensure the bow spirit would fit correctly. Also removed the excess from the dummy barrel strips and painted them black and bulkhead sides. Finally located quarterdeck (temporary) so that position of the top gun port strip could be determined (1mm above quarterdeck between bulkhead 6 to 9. Once the fist gun port strip was positioned I checked the positioning of the middle and lower gun port strip, to ensure the openings were clear of the bulkheads. Will work on this in earnest in my next session in the shipwrights workshop, where I will probably fit battens to the strips to provide a better contact area when the gun port linings takes place.
-
Hi David Thanks for that. Not going to get much time tomorrow as we have family coming for a visit but I hope to trim dummy barrel strips and fit the stern extensions and bow supports in morning before they arrive. Later on in day I hope to find some time to get gun port strips lined up so I can start fitting batterns and strips to hull during the week.
-
Thinking further ahead in the build I have noted some things in some build logs which are not in the manual. The first thing is the painting the dummy barrel strips and surrounding bulkheads black. This seems a good idea to me, are there any reasons not to do this prior to fitting the gun port strips? The second thing is related to the lining of gun port linings of the lower and middle gun decks. It strikes me there will not be much contact area for the linings especially the lined one's which are set back 1mm front edge after 2nd planking. I think it will be good idea to fix some small support batterns to the back of the gun port strips, around each gun port, prior to fixing the strips to the hull assembly. This means there will be better contact area for the linings which will be fitted much later in the build, as per the instruction manual. Does this makes sense as I can't see there being a problem, noting I will not be able to fit batterns to sides of gun ports which are close to bulkheads.?
-
I did find this bit difficult to understand when I built this model last year, I remember I had trouble sorting out the position of the gunwale, and over trimmed the pre-cut pieces and then had to add some filler pieces. I'm not sure mine was 100% correct when fitted but looks OK. Have a look at my pictures http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/4646-scottish-maid-by-glennard2523-al-kit/page-1
-
Was able to get a bit more done this afternoon. A great tip in Keith Julier's book The New Model Ship Handbook was to bevel the end of the dummy barrel strip to aid fitting, without the need to soak in water for the small bend. It worked very well indeed. Bevelled end Fitting dummy barrel strips Spent a bit more time adjusting the bow spirit opening on bulkhead 1, now happy with the fitting. Glued bulkhead 1 to main assembly Can't do much more at the moment until the glue sets.
-
When checking the fitting for the masts and bow spirit whilst in dry fit mode, I noted the access hole in bulkhead 1 for the bow spirit was quite small. Checking the plans the bow spirit is a 12.7mm dowel without any reduction, therefore I think bulkhead 1 will need some work. I have done a bit this morning. See picture below. Bulkheads 2-18 have now been glued in position along with gun deck. I have double checked everything is ok! Checking Main Mast fits OK Checking Fore Mast fits OK Checking Bow Spirit fits OK, without bulkhead 1 Bulkheads glued
-
Hi David. Thanks for that. I had realised that but I'm really glad you've got my back as I'm sure there will be many more problems to overcome. I put them there for the drilling for added security. I have now trimmed ends which I had only used a touch of glue and checked all clear with bulkheads and planking runs.
-
Thanks for the comments and fingers crossed all goes well this time. Another 2 1/2 hours work, Drilled 3mm support holes, noting I added some scrap 5mm ply for added support. I marked the beading line and removed excess (down to 2mm at edge) with David Plane, File and sandpaper. Took the plunge and glued stem and front keelson, now left to dry overnight. In meantime I removed all the other items from the 5mm ply sheets 1 to 6 and then decided to assembly the stand. Beading line work My David Plane 3mm fixing hole 3mm fixing hole supports Glued Stem and front keelson Stand assembly, I knew the reference books would be useful. 4 hours into the build. Should be able to spend some more time in shipwrights office tomorrow, but I do have other chores to do.
-
Got home from work and told the Admiral I was retiring to the Shipwrights office for the weekend. In the first 90 minutes I was able to remove the bulkheads, gun deck and keel from the sheets file as necessary and dry fit. The first cut The replacement parts Checking number of bulkheads! Start of the dry fit First dry fit and reference books I think this looks OK to me!
-
Replacement arrived - I'm one very happy bunny! I have deleted a lot of my old posts as there were simply not relevant to this build. Task 1 I'm going to check, and the double check the bulkheads prior to the numbering them 1 to 18. Task 2 I'm going to check, and the double check the bulkhead positions when dry fitted. Task 3 I'm going to check, and the double check the bulkhead 1-18 positions prior to gluing.
-
Good news, I have had confirmation of shipping from JoTika for the replacement parts, and according to the tracking service the goods are now out for delivery, it's going to be a busy weekend, trying to fit the boat build in. In the meantime here is a couple of picture of the small launch, it is nearing completion, only the Davit, twarks, stern seats, windass and gunwale left to fit, which should only take a couple of hours. The hull ribs has been the hardest task; having to careful split 3mm walnut strips into 1.5mm strips and then fit with a 4mm spacing ensuring the twarks will sit square to hull when installed. A small 4mm jig was used. I was glad to use the super phatic glue, takes a bit longer to set the CA glue but it's much easier to remove from the finger ends. Super phatic is a composite CA and wood glue which was recommended by my local model shop. I have painted the boat as per the manual.
-
I was reading The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships by Longridge last night. In particular I was interested in a drawing showing how a singe and dual block were rigged to help secure a cannon. The single block seemed to be held in place by a continuous rope wrapped in a figure of 8 with two beckets, one at end end of the block. Please see the attached pdf file. I would be interested to know how this type of rigging would be done for the model, boat builder as I suspect the normal thread may be to small to splice into a continuous loop. Cannon Blocks.pdf Any thoughts / ideas would be greatly appreciated.
-
Did you apply a beading line and sand the keel from beading line to the edge before the start of the planking? This is important otherwise the walnut keel and rudder parts will not sit correctly, it's the biggest mistake I made with the Scottish Maid build as I was not aware it needed to be done. Glenn
-
A great start to the build I will continue to watch your progress with great interest. Don't make the same mistake as me and put the pins in too deep as the are then difficult to remove before sanding and installing the 2nd layer of planking. Glenn
-
Hi David What a great set of pictures, your are making an outstanding job of the rigging. A real pleasure to see what you have done so far Glenn
Our Emblem ®
