MrBlueJacket
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Bluejacket Shipcrafters was the topic of "small businesses in Maine" on WAB I TV, which airs every Thursday during the 5:00 PM segment. Here's the link: http://www.wabi.tv/content/news/Maine-Is-Home-To-The-Oldest-Model-Ship-Manufacturing-Company-In-Country-468022253.html If that doesn't work, go to www.wabi.tv and search for bluejacket. -
I really haven't done much over the holidays, just made the mast and started to finish the display base. Here's a shot of the incomplete pieces cobbled together so I can get an idea of the finished model. I think every modeler plays "put together" with the sub assemblies. I know I always have.......Notice the left plaque says "thank you" in the middle
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And here's a picture of the deck all fitted out, and also the boom with the spreaders attached. now to work on the mast........
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Time to drill all the holes needed in the deck. Something like 26 holes altogether. Sooo glad they're pre-marked.
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So I'm working on some pieces, and looked at the small steering wheel. It is a photo-etched piece, and I decided rather than just paint it, I wanted to leave the ring brass colored. So I took an 18/0 paintbrush and brown gloss paint and did this: (that's my index finger)
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Last night I attached the laser-cut deck to the hull.Having the locations of the major components cut in is a big help, no need to measure where things go! To make a work cradle, I cut an oval out of a cardboard box bottom and lined it with foam. I used the waterline template as my guide, cutting about 1/2" larger all around. Now I can start to do some fun stuff, like populating the deck and getting to the rigging. I consider the hull work a necessary evil that has to be done so I can get to what I like to do. (makes no difference if its' a solid or planked hull)
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The trailboards are a pair of boards that may be found at the bow of certain sailing vessels, where they run from the figurehead or billethead back to or towards the hawsepipe. They are in the main decorative, though they often bear the name of the ship; they may be more or less elaborately carved and painted.
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The kit includes a small (7/8") replica of the America's Cup trophy, cast in Britannia metal. I sprayed it with rattle can chrome which I think is a good impression of polished silver at this scale.
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Inbetween coats of clear, I took the photo-etch pieces off and started to work on them. The skylights are half-etched to show the guard rods, but it is all brass color. I painted them with dark grey, then wiped off the highlights with a paper towel (dry) The net result I think gives them some depth.
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So onward to the 1/16" black boot-top tape, and the 1/64" gold cove moulding tape, followed by three coats of gloss clear. I'm happy with the result.
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So this past w/e I sprayed FLAT white paint, which I have never had trouble with. Let it dry overnight, then masked off and sprayed copper. FInally, a good result!
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Have you thought of a wooden or plastic square, center hole for the stack base, painted black, with a pin in each corner to represent bolts? It would look like a metal plate.
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So last night I hit the hull with 320 wet sandpaper, here's the result. Then I shot more primer, tonight I'll do the 600/wet routine (again)
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Thanks for the tips, guys. I never have this problem with flat paints. I also have some Sig vinyl pinstripe tape that I'll try.
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Last night I masked off the white and re-sprayed the copper. It looked great until I pulled off the masking tape, and some of the white paint came off with it. So tonight I will strip off all the paint and shoot another coat of primer. once again, *SIGH*
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And then I sprayed gloss white from the rattle can. Got a nice shiny finish, but when I pulled the making tape off, I discovered the folly of my ways. I didn't burnish the tape enough, and left a slight flap of overlap unsealed. The result is less than professional. So now I have to mask off the white, and re-spray the copper. *SIGH* I have often said that there are very few true craftsmen, the majority of us just learn how to hide our mistakes! (like me)
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So this past weekend I masked off the hull, using the kit-supplied waterline template to mark it off.
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So I decided to assemble the laser-cut display base. It is a very artistic, delicate looking 3-piece assembly out of mahogany wood
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It is 8 1/2" long by 12 1/2" high with the mounting stand. The Plexi case is 11 x 4 x 14.
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And last night I sprayed the bottom copper. It was from my very old 1/4 oz bottle of Testor's and the tag on it said 59 cents. That 600 grit paper really paid off. This weekend I'll mask it off and spray the gloss white.
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By the way, I started this over the Thanksgiving holiday. Here's how it looks after the first coat of primer and sanded down with 320 wet. That handle was perfect while spraying the primer. And here it is after a second coat of primer, this time sanded with 600 grit wet to give a really smooth base, since the finish will be gloss.
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Fist thing to do is to wash the resin hull in soapy water and let it dry. Then fill the minor holes and stuff with putty. I use automotive glazing putty, it is laquer based and dries pretty fast. Here's the hull after filling and sanding. Next comes gluing a handle on the hull so I can maneuver it better. It's just a basswood block and superglued down. SInce there is a dack part to go over the resin, when I take it off and sand down, it will not show when the model is finished .
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I'm building this model to give as a Thank You to someone. It is inexpensive, easy to do, and looks nice. The Rainbow was the winner of the 1934 America's Cup race, followed by Endeavour in second place. Here's the box and the contents.
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Although the templates will give you a "correct" hull, remember no-one will take a ruler to your model. More important is that it looks smooth and fair. Your "90%" should work just fine. Nic
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