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MrBlueJacket

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Everything posted by MrBlueJacket

  1. Last night I masked off the white and re-sprayed the copper. It looked great until I pulled off the masking tape, and some of the white paint came off with it. So tonight I will strip off all the paint and shoot another coat of primer. once again, *SIGH*
  2. And then I sprayed gloss white from the rattle can. Got a nice shiny finish, but when I pulled the making tape off, I discovered the folly of my ways. I didn't burnish the tape enough, and left a slight flap of overlap unsealed. The result is less than professional. So now I have to mask off the white, and re-spray the copper. *SIGH* I have often said that there are very few true craftsmen, the majority of us just learn how to hide our mistakes! (like me)
  3. So this past weekend I masked off the hull, using the kit-supplied waterline template to mark it off.
  4. So I decided to assemble the laser-cut display base. It is a very artistic, delicate looking 3-piece assembly out of mahogany wood
  5. It is 8 1/2" long by 12 1/2" high with the mounting stand. The Plexi case is 11 x 4 x 14.
  6. And last night I sprayed the bottom copper. It was from my very old 1/4 oz bottle of Testor's and the tag on it said 59 cents. That 600 grit paper really paid off. This weekend I'll mask it off and spray the gloss white.
  7. By the way, I started this over the Thanksgiving holiday. Here's how it looks after the first coat of primer and sanded down with 320 wet. That handle was perfect while spraying the primer. And here it is after a second coat of primer, this time sanded with 600 grit wet to give a really smooth base, since the finish will be gloss.
  8. Fist thing to do is to wash the resin hull in soapy water and let it dry. Then fill the minor holes and stuff with putty. I use automotive glazing putty, it is laquer based and dries pretty fast. Here's the hull after filling and sanding. Next comes gluing a handle on the hull so I can maneuver it better. It's just a basswood block and superglued down. SInce there is a dack part to go over the resin, when I take it off and sand down, it will not show when the model is finished .
  9. I'm building this model to give as a Thank You to someone. It is inexpensive, easy to do, and looks nice. The Rainbow was the winner of the 1934 America's Cup race, followed by Endeavour in second place. Here's the box and the contents.
  10. Although the templates will give you a "correct" hull, remember no-one will take a ruler to your model. More important is that it looks smooth and fair. Your "90%" should work just fine. Nic
  11. Hi Charlie, BlueJacket sells that style galley stack in two sizes, look here at #905 & 906: http://www.bluejacketinc.com/fittings/fittings20.htm
  12. I didn't check MSW yesterday so I didn't see this problem until just now. You should NOT have gotten a hull with crooked holes. I'm glad you found a solution, but a replacement hull is still available if you want it. In addition, I will make a note in your customer file to give you a $10 credit on your next order. Please PM me with some identifier (name, invoice number, something like that so I can find you) Don't be afraid to call me. Nic
  13. Hi, At the stern there is a lot of excess wood due to the duplicating process. You will need to remove wood from under the counter until it is as thin as the plan shows. It is also a bit long, use the deck to get the final stern length. DOn't forget the stern post will fill the gap you think you might have. Here is a diagram for you. Nic RevCutter.pdf
  14. I have looked into your hole mis-alignment issue. We use a template to mark the holes for drilling, and the template holes line up. BUT, being a manual process, it is possible the template could slip a little bit between drawing one hole then another. To correct that, I have added a manufacturing step after marking the holes - Take a ruler and make sure the hole marks line up. Enjoy the build, Nic
  15. I suggest you make the waterline match the plans. The bottom tail is a little off, but the bow shape is what we are looking for. Perhaps we should change that template tail. Nic
  16. Yes, we offer two different kits. The 1/4" POF is what is being built here by GSDPIC. The other one was a Laughing Whale kit in 1/8" scale. It too is plank on frames, except for the endmost bulkheads. But the frames are spaced more like bulkheads, and of course being a smaller scale, the details are more basic. The frames are laser-cut, so they need to be beveled. Hope that clears it up for you. Nic
  17. There's a great model ship club in CT called the Connecticut Marine MOdel Society. Here's their website: http://www.ctshipmodels.org/index.html
  18. Hi Mike, Those issues are Sept/Oct and Nov/Dec 2016. Griff is doing a nice job on these builds. Nic Owner, Bluejacket SHipcrafters
  19. Eric, I thank you for the kind words for BlueJacket. Being a modeler myself, when I answer questions, I always think "what honest answer should I deserve if I asked that question." I've enjoyed seeing your skills improve and develop from the Revenue Cutter to this. Nice job, good creativity, and a little buccaneer flair! Looking forward to your rigging experience with this..... Nic
  20. Here, let me help you with the contents:
  21. I had good results by painting the black first, then masking it off and spraying grey above, red below. Here's a link to my newsletter that describes the process. http://myemail.constantcontact.com/News--tips--and-happenings-from-BlueJacket-Shipcrafters--Inc-.html?soid=1105166336677&aid=KNHFIaXU6C8 And as mentioned above - stick with one paint chemistry.
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