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MrBlueJacket

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  1. MrBlueJacket
    And with the rudder done, we can start on the hull.
  2. MrBlueJacket
    So after yet more sanding and primer, I was able to finally put a coat of flat black on the hull. The white stripe is vinyl tape to mark the waterline for coppering. And now to start coppering. Rudder first.The rule is bottom to top, back to front.
  3. MrBlueJacket
    Unfortunately, after sanding, there is still just one little area that needed filling.
  4. MrBlueJacket
    Hi Dan, I started a build of the BlueJacket Mary Taylor on June 6th, it's still not in the index. Also, I just started another one this past Wednesday of the Laughing Whale "Tourist" Can you please add these? Thanks, Nic
  5. MrBlueJacket
    You can also try Auto body putty. It is lacquer based and sands easily.
  6. MrBlueJacket
    First order of business is to assemble the keel. The brass tubes for rudder and propeller are roughed up with sandpaper, and CA'd to the lite ply pre-cut pieces.
  7. MrBlueJacket
    Let me start by saying the scale listed is just a guess - nowhere on the plans, box, or instructions is a scale given. The pilot house is 4" from the deck to the roof, so at 5/8" scale it would be 6"5". I'm calling it a reasonable guess! This kit is from the 1980's, and the owner wants to see it finished. This should be a fun build. I can see some extra detailing, especially the interior. Although designed to be R/C, it will be a static model. The balsa wood hull side will be replaced with basswood for starters. Here's the kit contents:
  8. MrBlueJacket
    Here's what the hull looks like after some aggressive sanding with 60 grit paper. No need to go any finer, the primer will fill the small sanding marks. Then another coat of primer, and more putty. much less needed this time. If I'm lucky, maybe I won't need to do this a third time?
  9. MrBlueJacket
    And after a quick shot of primer, comes time to get out the automotive putty and fill the cracks, dings, and unevenness. I'm probably going to have to do this a couple of times, at least!
  10. MrBlueJacket
    So now the hull comes off the work-board so the exterior can be finished. First problem is how do I mask off the scuppers so the spray paint doesn't get into them? The answer is to use 1/16" square balsa wood. It is soft and can be forced into the opening. The next step is to mask off the interior deck and bulwarks.
  11. MrBlueJacket
    The next step is to add the waterways (1/32 x 3/32") I decided to pre-paint them, that way the deck to waterway edge is really crisp and perfect, without having to mask it off!
  12. MrBlueJacket
    Here is the transom sanded to final shape.
  13. MrBlueJacket
    And a view from the side. Now all that needs to be done is trim things up.
  14. MrBlueJacket
    And here is the plywood cut and in place.
  15. MrBlueJacket
    OK, now the transom. I made a template so I could get a tight fit against the bulwarks. the bottom is a little long.
  16. MrBlueJacket
    Fitting the transom is next, but I took a side path and shaped the bowsprit - it was more fun than the transom!
  17. MrBlueJacket
    Here are the bulwarks trimmed down to their final height. I used a Dremel saw attachment (carefully!) to trim it close, then sanded to the final lines I drew with a compass so it would follow the deck properly.
  18. MrBlueJacket
    Writing instructions can be a delicate balance between what you think someone buying a certain skill level kit should know, yet trying to help sidestep difficult construction details. Also, what we think we said in the instructions is not always what they are interpreted as.
  19. MrBlueJacket
    So with the deck done, I can attach the bulwarks. Still need to trim them down to the caprail level, but it's starting to look like a boat!
  20. MrBlueJacket
    Chris, I agree. But my customer likes it. So here's the template for the pounce wheel. 1" spacing, equal to about 5 1/3 feet (model is 3/16" = 1' scale) Note the bow is already pounced. After pouncing the stern deck, I did a brown wash into the holes, quickly wiping the thinned paint off right away. A bit of overkill, but....
  21. MrBlueJacket
    So I have the bulwarks ready to install. They are painted and have the scupper slot cut out. But before I install them, I am going to use a pounce wheel to simulate the deck treenails.
  22. MrBlueJacket
    Thanks for answering, Chris.
  23. MrBlueJacket
    Thanks for the deck compliments. I forgot to mention that it is a sheet of pre-glued decking strips, so I can't take credit for anything but gluing the sheet down and trimming :) The kit comes with scribed decking, but this looks so much better.
  24. MrBlueJacket
    Got the deck on last night and trimmed it to fit this morning. Cockpit well was opened up with a dremel cylindrical sanding attachment.
  25. MrBlueJacket
    Then to cut the plywood to the same shape. Needless to say, it took a bit of trial and error. But in the end, it is a good fit as you can see in the second picture. But before I glue it on, I need to put down the deck planking. Easier to trim first, rather than try to fit the deck on with the bulwarks in place.

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