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MrBlueJacket

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Everything posted by MrBlueJacket

  1. And here's the dory, completed except for the seats, which will be mahogany. They will have to wait until I have painted the shell.
  2. Starting to plank the hull - It's easy with the balsa supplied. I will coat the balsa with polyester resin and silkspan.
  3. Actually, I have not heard anything. We actually talked about it but many are similar to our own offerings.
  4. So now you can see all the bulkheads and decking in place. First photo is attaching the chine strips, second photo is the topsides, and the raised stern.
  5. No-one will look at your model and say "you didn't overlap your plates" - instead they will say "wow what a smooth job of coppering you did" Modeling is part authenticity, but also part of the art of making it look good. Like I said in a past newsletter " putty and paint - makes it look like what it ain't" Keep up the VERY good work! Nic
  6. Jim, Looking very good. Remember, back to front, bottom to top. Of course, with butt joints it doesn't make a difference. Nic
  7. You can see the rough hull in the first picture. I'll take some progress photos as I carve. Nic
  8. I took the previous photos on Fri. Saturday I actually started to do some assembly. Here's the keel: And one of the bulkheads. Experience has taught me that when butt gluing edge pieces, it is better to scarf a piece across the joint to strengthen it. Just be sure it won't be in the way of future assembly steps!
  9. First, let's take a good look at the cast metal pieces. These obviously have lead in them, so they will have to go. Luckily, I know where i can find replacements ;-)
  10. So here we go again with an older kit. Let's start with the kit contents. Here's one of the two plan sheets, the rigging package, and the instruction booklet. And here is the other plan sheet, along with the stick wood.
  11. So I have roughed out the bow and stern, taking off most of the knobs left from the hull carving process. big wood block screwed into the deck so I can hold the hull in a vise. Marked off the centerline, the width of the keel, and the station locations. Now comes the boring carve, fit, check, then repeat ad nauseum. After that, make the bulwarks, then it should get to be more fun.
  12. It seems the Red Jacket was launched with anti-fouling paint on her hull, but once in England, the British put on copper plates. I will do her "as launched" I think. I am also going to keep a time sheet, which is something I have never done before on a model. I'm also thinking of adding a few furled sails of silkspan.
  13. Finally, sheet 5 is the belaying points, and the cast fittings and resin lifeboats. My prediction is that it will take me about 1 1/2 years to finish.
  14. Sheet 4 is the mast and spar details, along with the photo etched brass, brass rod, laser cut wood, and flags. There's a lot of chainplates, about 1/3 of the photo etch sheet.
  15. Sheet 3 is the standing rigging. And here is the stick and sheet wood, along with 4 sheets of pre-glued decking.
  16. Sheet 2 is the running rigging plan, and here's the chain and rigging thread. There's a LOT of it!
  17. Time to start a new model. Made in Rockland, Maine in 1853, the Red Jacket was a clipper ship, one of the largest and fastest ever built. She was also the first ship of the White Star Line company. She was named after Sagoyewatha, a famous Seneca Indian chief, called "Red Jacket" by settlers.She was lost in a gale in 1885.On her first voyage, Red Jacket set the speed record for sailing ships crossing the Atlantic by traveling from New York to Liverpool in 13 days, 1 hour, 25 minutes, dock to dock. That record still stands today for commercial sailing vessels. The BlueJacket kit has 5 sheets of plans. Sheet 1 has the pre-carved hull laid on top of it. This is going to be a large model! (41" LOA)
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