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MrBlueJacket

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Everything posted by MrBlueJacket

  1. MrBlueJacket
    All the starboard side plates are in place, except for the waterline row. Notice two things: 1 - the upper edge of the plating is ragged. Don't worry, the waterline row will hide all of that. 2 - The aft end waterline row is starting to be applied.
  2. MrBlueJacket
    I made a diamond non-skid pattern by spraying black through a stretched screen over a gray base. I am happy with the look.
  3. MrBlueJacket
    So for the decking planks, I chose 1/32 x 1/4 basswood, and stained it using MinWax cherry. To get the lighter color, I only used the top liquid in the can, and did not stir up the bottom material. I'm pleased with the color.
  4. MrBlueJacket
    The kit had 1/16 balsa for the undersides, I substituted 1/16 plywood. I could have used 1/32, it would have been a little easier to bend around the bow.
  5. MrBlueJacket
    And more plates attached. Tedious work, but looks nice when done. Still following the rule of bottom to top, back to front for the plate overlaps.
  6. MrBlueJacket
    Here's another shot with more plates added, and also the tube of silicone gel for reference.
  7. MrBlueJacket
    Now to switch glues and start putting the flat plates on with silicone gel.
  8. MrBlueJacket
    Here's a shot of applying the CA glue And the edge of the keel is done.
  9. MrBlueJacket
    For gluing plates that have to be bent, like what you see so far, I like CA glue (thin). When I get to running plates that are flat rows, I prefer Silicone gel.
  10. MrBlueJacket
    Installed the bulkheads and deck. This old kit has no provisions for planking the deck, but I can be creative ;-)
  11. MrBlueJacket
    And with the rudder done, we can start on the hull.
  12. MrBlueJacket
    So after yet more sanding and primer, I was able to finally put a coat of flat black on the hull. The white stripe is vinyl tape to mark the waterline for coppering. And now to start coppering. Rudder first.The rule is bottom to top, back to front.
  13. MrBlueJacket
    Unfortunately, after sanding, there is still just one little area that needed filling.
  14. MrBlueJacket
    Hi Dan, I started a build of the BlueJacket Mary Taylor on June 6th, it's still not in the index. Also, I just started another one this past Wednesday of the Laughing Whale "Tourist" Can you please add these? Thanks, Nic
  15. MrBlueJacket
    You can also try Auto body putty. It is lacquer based and sands easily.
  16. MrBlueJacket
    First order of business is to assemble the keel. The brass tubes for rudder and propeller are roughed up with sandpaper, and CA'd to the lite ply pre-cut pieces.
  17. MrBlueJacket
    Let me start by saying the scale listed is just a guess - nowhere on the plans, box, or instructions is a scale given. The pilot house is 4" from the deck to the roof, so at 5/8" scale it would be 6"5". I'm calling it a reasonable guess! This kit is from the 1980's, and the owner wants to see it finished. This should be a fun build. I can see some extra detailing, especially the interior. Although designed to be R/C, it will be a static model. The balsa wood hull side will be replaced with basswood for starters. Here's the kit contents:
  18. MrBlueJacket
    Here's what the hull looks like after some aggressive sanding with 60 grit paper. No need to go any finer, the primer will fill the small sanding marks. Then another coat of primer, and more putty. much less needed this time. If I'm lucky, maybe I won't need to do this a third time?
  19. MrBlueJacket
    And after a quick shot of primer, comes time to get out the automotive putty and fill the cracks, dings, and unevenness. I'm probably going to have to do this a couple of times, at least!
  20. MrBlueJacket
    So now the hull comes off the work-board so the exterior can be finished. First problem is how do I mask off the scuppers so the spray paint doesn't get into them? The answer is to use 1/16" square balsa wood. It is soft and can be forced into the opening. The next step is to mask off the interior deck and bulwarks.
  21. MrBlueJacket
    The next step is to add the waterways (1/32 x 3/32") I decided to pre-paint them, that way the deck to waterway edge is really crisp and perfect, without having to mask it off!
  22. MrBlueJacket
    Here is the transom sanded to final shape.
  23. MrBlueJacket
    And a view from the side. Now all that needs to be done is trim things up.
  24. MrBlueJacket
    And here is the plywood cut and in place.
  25. MrBlueJacket
    OK, now the transom. I made a template so I could get a tight fit against the bulwarks. the bottom is a little long.

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