ianmajor

Also boats were often towed. There was a swivel bolt in the wale under the mizen chain each side for attaching the boat painter to for this purpose.

Video for information: NAVIO SANTISIMA TRINIDAD model construction

Once again thanks for looking in on my build!
 
We are going away for some sun to escape the long continuing London winter so I shall complete the build when we return
 
Time to review the things I think could be improved
 
I definitely need to improve planning the rigging in advance with more fixings on yards hull and tops
 
I also think that it is possible to get a good approximation of ratlines and deadeyes which I shall try next time
 
I am happy with the materials used but would like to improve the precision of deck fittings
 
The tension in the rigging needs to be managed better and I would like to try getting more realistic sag on the lines
 
There should be less reliance on glue which has built up too much in some places and catches the light.
 
Matt

Thanks for the compliments.
 
Now to the rest of the doors:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Nico

Thanks John and Augie.  I think your right the slight distortion and the old look of the symbol do add to the overall look.  It's not the crisp clear look I'm used to but it works.  
 
Took some better photo's in the day light.  Thank you all again.  This has been a fun project.  It turned out great.  I think the "spanish lady" will highly enjoy it.  
 

 

 

 

 
 

Ian,
 
The main topsail sheet bitts were often a gallows bitt or sometimes a gallows was fitted just fwd of them. Spare topmasts and spars were stowed on these,the fwd ends resting on the aft edge of the forecastle. The largest boat would be stowed on top of these with possibly the smallest boat stowed upside down on it. There was not enough width to place boats side by side. If your capstan is aft of the mainmast it may be possible to stow a third boat on the deck underneath the others.
 
TBH,Lavery is a bit vague on all this giving lots of possibilities. As his book is 25+ years old maybe further research has turned up better info. Perhaps one of our knowledgeable members will be able to give you a better answer,I´m no expert    Stern and quarter davits were a late 18th century development on large ships and skid beams (Lavery calls them boat booms) across the waist from the gangways also late in appearing on frigates. Around 1800 according to Laverys´book.  
 
Hope this is of help to you.
 
Dave

Hi Ian,
 
I found this in Laverys´ Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War. " Probably the most important order was that of 1769 which regulated the boats issued to ships of 10 to 36 guns." 
 
Frigates of 28 to 36 guns had three boats each,a Longboat,a Pinnace and a Yawl. Ships of 28 guns had longboats 21 or 22 ft, Pinnaces of 28 ft and Yawls of 22 or 23 ft. That would seem to fit roughly with what you are looking for.  
 
Dave

Kind day
I will try to give more detailed process of manufacturing
A bit later
Anatoly

Good afternoon misters
I am sorry for my English пешу through the translator
I want to give you on court furniture for the big cabin
While only a table and chairs маштаб 1:48 and прцесс manufacturing
Material chairs самшыт
I will accept any criticism
Anatoly

Hi Ian,
 
I believe we corresponded on the old MSW site over the Unicorn. I completed mine just last year in the record time (I thought) of 15 years. You have out-paced me, so I have read from your build log.
 
I remember buying this kit because of the fact that it was a frigate. I learned early on that it was not an accurate model and the description given by Corel was way off. However, it was a frigate and I charged ahead. Reading what little research I did, I made some minor modifications regarding the smaller calibre guns on the quarterdeck, and re-arranging some of the deck furniture and fittings. I also fitted some proper pin racks at the bases of the masts. I used John MacKay's book on the Pandora to help me with some of the details. It was good fun and I enjoyed the build. You are certainly doing your homework and will have a much more accurate Unicorn than I have.
 
There are some completed model photos in the gallery if you care to take a look.
 
Good luck with your build and I'll be sure to check on your progress from time to time.
 
Cheers,
 
Peter

Thank you for your comments, Danny and Sjors.
To Danny:  No problem to explain how I create this or that. I usually take some pics (sometimes videos) from the process - it is better to understand the tutorial and description.
 
After two days of careful work i have finished the capstan - it is made according to plans from the book Anatomy of Royal Caroline.

I used wood (nut), card and self-adhesive foils (with wooden and gilded look - for the star on the top). The nail heads are created with thick colour ( gun metal + flat black - mini acrylic paint from Tamiya). For application I use a metal tip from micro-pencil (0,3mm).
 



 

Started one year ago. Make some alteration to come closer to the original. For the planking I use pear instead of walnut.

The children are fortunate to have such a good teacher.
 
Ian M.

BTW there is a good article by Eric Tilley in Articles/Downloads in the Ship Model Materials and Tools called Lathe Work 1.
    http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/materials_and_tools/LatheWork1.pdf
 
The first part is a does and don'ts advice. The second part is good summary of various lathes. Well worth a view if anyone is thinking of buying.
 
Ian M.

There are a couple more ways to do the coil around a belaying pin. One is to use the line that you have hitched around the pin. You make another flat coil with some more line and hang the coil around the hitched line. The picture below should tell you the story.

 
What I like to do is to make the coils ahead of time and store them until I need them. I use several different sizes. Below is one variation of what I showed earlier. It ends up looking a bit more like the photographs. I make a series of small loops on a board with brats and hook those through the coil. 
 
 
 This shows a couple just looped around a pin.
 
Keep in mind that the sailors had to be able to grab the line and know exactly how it is looped around the pin. They would have to do this blindly in the dark and heavy seas. Hence all lines were belayed the same way.

Jay,
 
Would the fellow you refer to be Hubert Sicard? He produced a nice video demonstrating his rope coiling device made from old CD covers. This can be seen at http://www.shipmodeling.ca/aa000099av.html.  
 
Ian M.

I use this jig to make my pin coils. Just some nails in an angled piece of wood. When the coils are made, I spray them with hair spray and let dry. The plastic push pins allow for easy removal. Has worked very good for me.

INTRODUCTION
 
 
This is the build log for Hr. Ms. O 19, one of only two submarines in her class of the Koninklijke Marine (Royal Navy).  Please forgive me for making this introduction very personal because she was part of my life and therefore holds a very special interest for me.  My father, Opperschipper (Adjudant) Petrus W. van Warmerdam, was with her from about one year before her launch September 22, 1938 till his promotion to Opperschipper in January 1941.   
At the time he was placed on the build he had the rank of Schipper, with the added function of Quality Control and Assurance Inspector and liaison between the Navy and the ship builder Wilton-Fijenoord in Rotterdam, the Netherlands. 
 
His second tour of tropical duty started right after his marriage to my mother in October 7, 1931, and they started a family while in Surabaya, the former Dutch East Indies.  My sister and I were born there, November 14, 1932 and April 15, 1934.  When his second six-year tour of tropical duty ended in the end of 1937 he had to return to the Netherlands.  Of course his family, my mother, sister and I, followed shortly after on the passenger liner M. S. Christiaan Huygens of the Stoomvaart Maatschappij Nederland, Amsterdam. 
 
When we arrived in the Netherlands we first stayed in Den Helder, the Royal Navy Base, but after hearing about the new class of submarines being build he immediately requested to be placed on them.  Because of his expert technical knowledge of submarines the Royal Navy agreed and he and his family moved to Vlaardingen Ambacht, Narcisplein 3 to be exact, a small town near Schiedam, in March of 1938.  Sjors and Anja know this area quite well.
 
The shipyard was located in Schiedam, the Netherlands and the boat he was assigned to happened to be the furthest along of the two in that class, mine laying submarines. 
 
The original design concept for a mine lying submarine was completed in December, 1934 and assigned numbers O 17 and O 18. (Reference pictures can be found in the DRAWINGS section)   However, the design was altered to a more squarish form amidships for better loading and discharging of the mines by engineer G. de Rooy.  (Reference pictures can be found in the DRAWINGS section)  Rumors have it that it is based on the design of the Polish submarine Orzel but cannot be confirmed.  The Orzel was also a mine-laying sub but I believe that the mine tubes were carried inside the main hull and not on the side as the O 19 class subs.  
 
The O 19 and O 20 were also the first subs equipped with “getrimd diesel system ,” where the boat could run on diesel power while submerged to charge the batteries and for ventilation.   This is commonly known as “Snorts,” or “Snorkels.”    Navigation was done via the navigation periscope.
 
The KM (short for Royal Navy in Dutch) used to classify submarines for domestic waters with O and those for the colonies with K (K stands for “Koloniën ” which means colonies).  They were originally assigned the numbers K XIX and K XX, which was changed to O 19 and O 20 sometime during their fabrication.  All subsequence submarines received the O designation till the end of WW II.  After the war all subs received names instead of numbers.
 
The O 19 was launched September 22, 1938 with my father onboard of course   and officially commissioned on July 3, 1939, my mother, sister and I were present for that event.  I was standing on extreme left of the photo, hidden behind the bow flag, next to my mother.  The ensuing trial runs were successfully conducted near de Scandinavian coast and the fiords where proof diving could be done more successfully.  Although the boat was designed for a maximum depth of 100 meters these proof dives were limited to 60 meters.
 
Special tests were to be conducted on the voyage to the Netherland’s East Indies to measure geological differences in the Earth’s crust when sailing over the continuation of a mountain range underwater as well as wave action while submerged.  She and her crew arrived safely and without any technical difficulties at the Navy Base in Soerabaja (old Dutch spelling) in September 1939.
 
My mother, sister and I followed in December of 1939 on the passenger liner M. S. “Johan van Oldenbarnevelt,” of the Stoomvaart Maatschappy Nederland.   Both the Christiaan Huygens and JVO served as troop transports during WW II.
 
On January 1, 1941, my father was promoted to Opperschipper (Adjudant) and had to be transferred to a surface ship of the KM, which was the light cruiser Hr. Ms. Java.   The reason for the transfer was dat that rank was not maintained on submarines.  That was the second time in my short life that I saw my father shed a tear.  He loved the submarine service that particular boat and the crew.   As all submariners know these small crews on the subs become like a family.  He hated the Java, that “old rust bucket,” as he called it and he was subsequently killed in action on that ship during the “Battle of the Java Sea,” 5 minutes before midnight on February 27, 1942.  A long-range Japanese torpedo hit the Java in the rear port side just where his battle station is.  Fortunately he never knew what hit him when the powder room exploded and 20 meters of that part of the ship just evaporated.
I have photographs of the wrecked stern section that lies 70 meters down on the sea floor and now have closure and sort of a “grave marker.”
 
Our lives changed dramatically shortly afterward when the Japanese successfully invaded the Dutch controlled Indonesian islands and made us “guests of the Emperor” of Japan, i.e. prisoners of war, and placed us into concentration camps for the duration of the war.  Yes, even women, and children, all non military people were classified as combatants and came under military rule and in charge of the Kempeitai.
 
Fellow ship model builders, something you may not know but the Japanese High Command gave orders in the beginning of 1945 to exterminate all POWs in September of 1945.  As terrible as the two atom bombs that destroyed Hiroshima and Nagasaki are, it saved millions of lives and is the reason I am alive today with two beautiful daughters and a grandson.  My wife too was a “guest of the Emperor” in a concentration camp in Semarang, Java.  It is also giving me the great pleasure counting all of you as my friends.
 
The O 19 served with distinction during the entire war and I am sure that my father would be proud of her and the crew.
 
Well then, this model is in memory of my father and I dedicate it to him and the crew he loved.  The boat is still with us today, albeit as a wreck on Ladd Reef in the South China Sea (19.93 Lat, 174.57 Long).  Due to a navigational error she ran right smack in the middle of that reef at low tide.  And yes, the crew survived and was rescued by the USS sub “ Cod,” which is moored permanently in Cleveland, Ohio, as a museum.   There are some interesting films on “YouTube” of the rescue 
 
My model will be at a scale of 1:50 which translates to 1.6 meter and only shows the exterior of the boat, except for the side-launch torpedo tube assembly.  This unit is mounted outside the main pressure hull, between the hull and the deck structure forward of the deck gun location. 
It will be plank on bulkhead, using poplar wood for the majority of the build.  For the deck structure I may use 1/32 inch plywood over a frame of poplar, covered with epoxy resin.  The simulated hull plating will be 150 lb hot pressed watercolor paper over 1.5 mm poplar planking and epoxy resin.   Other materials will be brass rod, brass and copper wire, plastics, cardboard material and whatever comes to mind to achieve the desired effect.
I’ll be using red Titebond glue, Elmer’s Carpenter’s WoodGlue Max, which is an interior/exterior glue and waterproof.  Of course CA will also be used when appropriate.
 
I am still doing research on the original paint scheme at the time of the commissioning but that point is still in the future.
 
The drawing section is to follow.
 
Cheers, 

Greetings,
 
My next step was to prepare the 1/32" x 1/16" Sheer Clamps.  After fitting and rounding the forward ends they are glued to the hull and the bottom of the Deck Edge Guards.
 
Cheers,
 
Tim
 







 

Thanks for an assessment of my work! It would be very good to have 10 people of assistants, then it would be possible to construct much more models  ! Unfortunately, it is necessary to use only own hands.

A tip that technology lecturer gave me related to using thin super liquid glues to fix metal to wood. The problem is the wood tends to rapidly draw the glue away from the joint by capillary action. His answer was to dampen the joint area of the wood with water, put the super glue on the metal surface then make the joint. It has worked well for me.
 
Ian M.

With the coil in place, and all lacquered up, I use an old paint brush handle to hold the coil in place to dry. It's best to leave a short tail which ensures the coil won't unravel while it's drying.
 
Here are some pic's showing the last of the process...
 

 
Push the coil towards the deck. If it is the right size, it won't have a tendancy to spring back to the horizontal.
 

 
The paint brush handle helps hold the coil in place.
 

 
Here, several coils are being done at once. Once you get going, it's best to do several at a time to keep the momentum!
 

 
I have kept some tails to these coils so they won't unravel.
 

 
And voila! All done! On to the next ones...
 
 
 
 
 
 

RC has already finished decoration on the bow bulkhead. All these sculptures come from my fantasy, cause there are no exact information about original design of these sculptures in the book Anatomy of the ship. So I designed my own...

I did a presentation on masts and spars for the club I belong to.  (Shameless plug for the The Nautical Research and Model Ship Society of Chicago.)  I've attached the presentation.  I use a small lathe made by Harbor Freight Tools, a digital caliper and a file.
 
Hope this helps!
 
 
 
Dan
Masts and Spars.pdf