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Old Collingwood

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Everything posted by Old Collingwood

  1. I have been pushing a head with my build and have finaly finished planking the lower deck, i have added a small edge strip against the forward bh, and a similar strip further back although these wont be seen they have helped to strengthen things abit, i have decided after cleaning the deck down, to leave it un-treated as it will not be seen to a great degree. Here are the current pics... C.
  2. Thanks hamilton, i will have a look, ive been off a day or two as i have had first a virus attack on my laptop(got that fixed) then a complete windows crash, that even booting could'nt fix so i had to have a new windows instalation. C.
  3. I have started on setting some planking on the lower deck, i have done this by creating a template then transfering to card, this i have split in two equal sections to aid placing through the bh sections, i have planked one side of the lower deck and sanded, i have decided to leave the decking a natural wood color and just treat with a plain clear mat varnish/clear cote. When i plank the upper deck i would like to replicate the bleached effect as seen on real decks, due to years of salt water holy stoning, not sure how i can lighten the deck planks that come with the kit (any ideas folks)? C.
  4. I have just finished farring the hull bh frames, only took 10 hours of sanding - checking - sanding etc etc(talk about saw hands) anyway i think i have gotten away with out any frame fillers and all frames now look online and thier bottoms lign up with the bearding line and show a nice equal gap for the keel extension, i have also checked the reference points and sanded back the decks where they meet the frames, some small sections of the frame have a gap around the frame extrusions but these will be covered by the planking, i also achieved a nice even curve around the bow(the filler sections realy helped here). Next will be to remove the decks as they are only dry fitted, then when my paint arrives i will give the lower deck frame sections a lick of whitewash then start decking the lower deck area. C.
  5. Absolutly Stunning what you are and have achieved with your beautiful victory, i think the victory trust would be proud to have a model like yours representing thier fine ship. Fantastic C.
  6. Thanks for that hamilton, i see quite abit of work in the bh department, that is why i have tried to take 9/10 down as far as i can and correct the upper section more so, i have found a wondefull painting of frigates in 1720s era being built on the thames and it shows these ships had such a dramatic amount of sheer compared to alter period ships. Anyway i have continued onwards today with strengthening the hull, and helping to keep everything square and plumb by cutting and fitting lengths of balsa between the bh's, then to help with planking around the bow towards the bowspite i have fitted some strips of balsa that i will sand back to form a rounded shape. Here are the pics... C.
  7. Brilliant work....and to work with all them lines at this scale "gulp" "help" mind you better than the 700 scale modern warship im working on aswel.... C.
  8. I have finished bulkheading the frame and cutting out the under deck beams etc, i have done abit of a mod-con on the troubled bh's as spoken about by hamilton, my workflow here and idea was to start with the top of the keel where the bh cut outs are, my theory was to create a gentle slop towards the middle and produce a sheer, this would make correcting the 2 bh's a little less work, i also built up with a bit of balsa the difference in deck hight to keep a corresponing sheer. My next job after the keel/bh assembly is set will be to sand down and smooth edges abit, then i will give the bulkhead frames abit of shaping, then the next job on my list will be to give the inside deck sections a lick of white wash, then i will start panking the lower deck. C.
  9. Does anyone have any advice over correct paint colors for the 1719 light frigate ships, i am tempted by off white for interior bulkheads etc, red ocre for upper deck bulwarks & fitting against them etc, flat metal black for cannons and iron work, french blue for the hull detailing near to rails, a rich pine stain for hull above whale, whale same black as above, flat white for hull from waterline and below, and gold or brass for ornaments guilt figurehead etc. What do people think. C.
  10. I made some more progress today but also when backwards abit when i stumbled on a problem with the placing of the front bh's in relation to the the front area of the keel, there was to much keel showing with to much profile, so i took the keel off and cut back the false keel about 8mm, i also re shaped the front keel bringing it closer to the line of planking when i do it, i have also been continuing with my bh's again working from bow and stern towards the mid-ship area. Here are the pics... C.
  11. After having a day off due to my other hobby - cameras calling me i got the chance to play with my new nikon dslr that i use for my pics on here, anyway yesterday was on with the build, i have been working with the bulkheads from both bow and stern, as i am mindful of hamiltons problems with the two miss-aligned and shaped bh's, and as i am showing a wider lower deck with part deck floor beam and knees, i have been working on 1 bh at a time then fitting/glueing and dry testing the main gundeck against the line of the bh's. I have also found that by correcting for a slope or sheer over the quarterdeck of possibly 5-10mm this equates to a real sheer in full size terms of about 2-4ft over the same area, this will meen i can file out abit of the bh/frame slot and sit the bh's slightly lower, hopefully helping to correct abit of the problem hamilton disscovered, this should look ok as i know they would have had quite a deffined slope/sheer anyway. I will continue in this form and adjust as i go and fingers crossed end up with a hull shape that is not to bad, and if anything like hamiltons i will be extremely happy. C.
  12. Carrying on with dry-fitting stuff aswel as fitting the bulkheads, i have decided to widen the lower deck, this i started on bulkhead 4 and have cut it out to extend the planking area and also to include the floor beam knee's as shown, the other two pics show the general dry-run layout with the captain/leutenants door/window assembly(not sure if i will use this with a little re-work or make my own), and the other a general plan view showing how the quarter/forecastle/poop areas will look. I may even consider extending the decks even further down to include a hold(i know this wont be seen but it will be fun building and i will know its thier) abit like building a sub and fitting it out inside prior to sealing it up. Heres the pics... C.
  13. Great progress there she is looking mighty fine and very realistic looking, i understand what you meen about finding the time, i was in a similar situation some time ago, but since my dissability and the wifes we have more time on our hands, mine for boat building and photography and the wife with her knitting, also its appropriate my build where we live - its a 17th century cottage that saw action during the english civil war in 1640 so building such a ship seems to fit in, i think the house approves aswell.
  14. More progress yesterday, with the decks and adjusting the bulkheads as they do not lign up with the slots in the decks, i have also marked out and adjusted the new cut outs for the masts, as all three are in slightly different positions due to me moving the main deck about 5-6mm further back. I also fitted the next bulkhead from the bow section num 3, and the corresponding one at the stern to help me align the decks for the poop and the forecastle, these are not fitted as i have plenty to do to them and i will even plank them on the table then fit them prior to planking the walls of the bulwarks. C.
  15. Hi hamilton, im still toying with the idea about the forecastle, to square it off/or not to quare it off? i might if im lazy, make it an interpretation where it had all the other mods but kept a rounded forecastle, but i am deffinatly extending both the poop and forecastle areas, as shown in my pics, they show the flat areas minus the planking, i will do both these as seperate builds and plank them prior to fitting, then i will work on the bulwark/stud areas when i have fitted them. I would like to use abit of artistic licence here with my build, as i am sure there are no deffinatives regarding thier exact look, as we know alot depended on the captain at the time, especialy with smaller alterations - ladder situating etc. C.
  16. Thanks hamilton, I have started work on the rear section today and fitted the rearmost b-head 13, i then worked on the poop deck and forecastle, because i have decided to build her as HMS Lyme (with a little artistic licence-well alot), both these areas needed extending, so i went from the plan marked around extended, then added some ply the same thickness as the poop/forecastle deck, i have also fixed a template of paper underneath and secured with strong glue to aid strength, i also filled in the poop deck stairway port as i will fit two external ladders instead. Here are the pics showing these two areas and the frame plan showing the alterations i will make to the quarterdeck bulwarks, and others. C.
  17. I have been working on extending the rear section of the keel, and correcting the wrong angle of the rudder post. i added a small strip of balsa i had knocking around, i constructed it - 8mm wide down to nothing, this will meen the rear quarters/poop deck area wil be 8mm longer, but this might just help the quarter windows abit. C.
  18. And an old pic of the pilot boat i built for my old vic kit, i still have this boat but had to leave my quarter completed vic kit. C.
  19. Thanks hamilton, it will certainly be an interesting build, and hopefully my build experience both plastic and wood will come in useful. On with my build, after offering up forecastle b-head num 1, i soon discovered the slots on both the keel and b-heads where tight, so i opened both up slightly after checking the centre point of the slots, then a nice join was made, i then fitted brace 23s and offered up both number 24s, but as i did with my vic build i decided to fan out these two supports at 45deg angles, first i sanded the edges of both to meet at a point then glued both in place. I did this because i found it makes for a smoother more natural curve for the hull planking. Anyway heres the pics..... C.
  20. Does the kit come with extra materials or are they exact? just incase i decide to lengthen the forecastle area and plank it, this is what i would need to do to build the kit as HMS Lyme, also i would need to plank over the rear step upto the poop area as this would be acsessed via extarnal steps again if i build HMS Lyme. C.
  21. Hi dragzz, jeff and hamilton, Thank you for the replies, Im fairly well up there with farring i had to do this quite considerably with my vic build, also adding shaped timbers from formed wood strips(coffee stirers) and constant-Constant-COnstant sanding the bulk heads with different strengths of sanding material to get a good smooth planking shape, i had to go almost completely away from the de-agostini build instructs, as they where also not 100% acurate, mind you i started from the bottom up from the keel and even started to add some lower floors like the hold etc. This i will try to do with this kit, and after scouring the net for info on the 1720 20-24 gun man-of-war(frigate), it is possible with some mods to build any of the four mentioned, Lyme is perhaps the most interesting as she shows to have a slightly lengthened forecastle area and poop with the addition of a (poss 6pdr cannon) on the top of the poop deck, and and additional one rearward and on the same deck as the our cutouts. So lots of possibilities C.
  22. Well it arrived today in a nice tidy box well packaged and presented, i checked over all the contents and decide my build strategy, i first checked the keel for squareness and found that it was not sitting totally flat when on its side, so i gently flatened it aided by abit of friction/heat, next was to design/build a building frame so it was to the shed i ventured....i found a piece of 2"x1" soft wood, after cutting to length and shaping the ends, i fitted four pieces of balsa that where placed against the keel for aligning, then after gluing in place with some strong glue. Here is my first pic showing the above, but as i dont have a close up or wide lens just 55mm minimum on my dslr, i may struggle to show close/fine details.... C.
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