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Old Collingwood
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Everything posted by Old Collingwood
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Folks I couln't resist so i took the model in the kitchen under good light and my glass, and carried on filling the port holes with undiluted acrylic(same colour as hull) till the whole of the port hole minus a slight indentation is full. It seems to be working but I will be able to tell when I drill through with a finer bit tomorrow. OC. -
Thanks for that, I am however attempting to rectify the situation without causing any damage to the paint work that I had finished minus the spray topcoat. OC.
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Welcome aboard my Warspite Fantasy World - get yourself a comfy chair, some popcorn and a drink OC.
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I was thinking similar but by filling with plastic filler then re drilling out after with a smaller drill bit. OC.
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I had a go at fixing the tiny tiny PE port hole frames tonight - But No way, they are just too small and even after getting one fixed in place over the port hole, trying to rotate it to get the eye brow at the top, was just to much work - so off it came. Plan number two was to fill the holes with brush tips of paint to fill the edges in a bit, then tomorrow when dry I will go through it with a fine drill bit(much smaller than the original hole. OC.
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Thanks for the help greg, would undiluted PVA work as an adhesive using the same method you described? it would be a lot cleaner and safer to the already painted sides. OC.
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Another job that has sprung itself at me - I have found some (about 40) PE port hole surrounds (open type) on my pontos fret - "umm - those port holes a bit too large from my drilling" thats what I am thinking, just trying to work out the easiest and cleanest way of attaching them without damaging the paintwork. These are them folks - the round disks with holes in the center. OC.
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Greg can i pick your brains please, re - port hole pontos surrounds, I have discoverd quite a few of my port holes have drilled slightly over scale, but tonight I have found about 40 or so in my pontos fret, what would be the best and tidyest way to attach some of these, would a pin work by sliding the surround onto the pin and dabbing a tiny bit of glue on the port hole, then by sliding the pin inside the port hole and sliding the surround into place, would that work do you think? OC.
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Hi Carl, I did both but started from the front then just a bit of front-back-front-back type of action just to clear up any bur on the back. OC.
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I got an hour or two on the bench this evening and started work on the rear side wall, I cut it from the kit fret, and sanded the edges abit, I then fashioned a piece of plastic strip that was lerking in the kit - but not needed, this was glued on the top edge with Revell Glue - then when set i sanded the face to get a smooth join, next I needed to reduce the hight with a sanding stick and micro flat file. Next will be a strip of PE to fill the gap between the wall and the turret. Oh - and i drilled out the port holes. Just the one pic of it folks. OC.
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Thanks greg, yep the old girl did have an unusual profile, I will still be some time I feel as I will be concentrating on each small section as a build in thier own. and painting small sub assemblies befor assembley, that way I should be able to get more detail on them - and in an easier fashion. OC.
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HEY! That was my idea well - an idea I also used to mark my Boot Line OC.
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Thanks Carl, its only taken me a year and a half to get to this stage so i guess give it another year and a half and she will be built and in a case. OC.
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A bit more progress folks including the pictures I promised, I have also fixed down the rear deck so as decks and hull go its all as one now OC.
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Imagin if they had covered the whole ship in ERA - she would have weighted about 60.000 tons but would have been as tough as old boots OC.
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A bit more progress today folks (I will post some pics tomorrow in the light) I found out a way to scribe some armor plate details - starting with the drop down deck (where the 6 inch casemates where) this had a quite destinct line along the edge about half way down, I made a guide for the line with a wooden block taped in position, and ran a needle attached to a handle along the top of the wood to gouge a narrow line, then i ran a pencil along the line to make it stand out a bit. It went well but will need a bit more tidying up as the pencil line is to wide, I did a similar thing in the mid ships area to the side hull, again with a wood block - same tech, and it turned out fine just about noticable, next i formed a box area by gauging/pencil to the extreme bow end near the flagstaff, I finnished it off by adding a couple of small holes in the area. OC.
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I think they were just placed there early years before the 20mm Orks where fitted to the tops of the turrets, It just got the idea that they may have done a similar thing to the rear hatches - like in my build. OC.
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