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Old Collingwood

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  1. Old Collingwood
    Thank you hamilton, hope all is good with you and the little one, thank you for the compliment, i have looked into the correct gun port hight to cannon sizing and have done just as you suggested(great minds think alike lol) and the top of the darker strip represents the hight of the bottom edge of where the gun ports will be cut out to, and i will add a flat finishing wood rail supported on square section stubs that will go across the top of the gun ports. Whats your feeling about the correct scale thickness of the tops of the hull walls? i think about 12-15 inches or 3-4mm & 100 scale, if this is so it gives me scope to put in three thicknesses of planks - two outside(first and second planking) and an internal bulwark section, also what kind of hight would you construct both the poop deck and forecastle? i think about 6 feet. C.
  2. Old Collingwood
    I have been carrying on with my first planking and managed to bend the second level around the bow/bowsprit and continued my way up the poop deck area so i could cut away the bulkhead extrusions stopping me from planking the deck of the poop deck over its full width, as i want to do this with the deck away from the build, to aid test bleaching to get the correct weathered finish i am after. I just hope i am achieving the right look and shape of these attractive frigates? Here's some pics... C.
  3. Old Collingwood
    Hi hank, Great build a very interesting a mighty ship to build, have you also considered getting hold of a copy of Under Siege, as i believe that was filmed on NJ and should give some interesting viewpoints. C.
  4. Old Collingwood
    I have been carrying on with my first planking of the hull, with bending thinner strips one at a time(three in total) around the sharp angle of the bow, i have left them slightly thicker than the thickness of the normal first planking strips so i can sand them back to get a nice smooth equal profile, this has worked quite well as trying to bend the thicker planks around sutch a tight profile is tricky and the planks just kept bouncing back when set even with ca/strong gp and wood glue. I have cut a bearding line into the bowsprit now and this does help with holding the planks, so the desision now is - do i go with the normal thickness of first planking for the rest of the bow sections, or spend more time with thinner strips and as i have done just cut these back to the first buklhead, and join the normal planks thier?. Anyway its coming on ok i think, slow but methodical and going in the right direction.
  5. Old Collingwood
    I have started working on the top section of hull panking stage 1, so i decided to construct the bottom gun port rail first, i have had the most incredible head ache trying to bend this plank around the forward bulkheads to meet the bowsprite as i did not cut in a channel on the bowsprite to anchor the planks into at that stage. I remedied this by cutting back this piece of planking to the first b,h, then i am fitting 3 strips of deck planking as they are the same width, and with them stuck together they are about the same thickness as the original, it helps bending around the bow aswel being thinner. C.
  6. Old Collingwood
    Well i managed to get a nice wethered grey/aged look to a section of my forecastle decking, but it does seem too dark and almost like a battleship grey in shade, i have tried a rough sanding with a salt paste to try to lighten but not much has happened, does anyone have any ideas of anything i could use to almost bleach the deck lighter, to a light grey shade as wood goes naturaly with age and the elements. C.
  7. Old Collingwood
    I have continued my build by fitting the false main deck and checking for acurate line and shape, i think it has settled quite well apart from needing abit more shaping and sanding around the bulkheads, i have then started dry fitting both the forecastle deck and poop deck to check for alignment and camber, i have needed to take the hight down abit, as they were giving a scale hight from the bottom of the poop deck and forecastle deck to the main deck of about 9 feet, so i sanded the bulkhead tops down to a scale hight of about 6 feet. Next i decided to attack the rear cabin window frame work, by fitting a horizontal support roughly half way between decks, i have also added two small supports on the sides. I've also added the oar cutout framework for the horizontal lengths, i have worked on a scale gap of two feet, i imagine this would be about right allowing a two foot square oar opening. Here are the pics. C.
  8. Old Collingwood
    Here is a quick picture to show the first attempt on the forecastle deck with the weathering agent applied. C.
  9. Old Collingwood
    Well ive sorted out how to age planks and simulate the silver/grey color that wood goes when open to the elements, - firstly i purchsed a bottle of cooking vinegar and some metal washing up pan scourers, i found a container with a secure air tight lid and emptied the vinegar into it acompanied by the scourers and left for two days, then today i tested on my completed forward planking area that has been just left un treated, after letting it dry(with the aid of a hairdryer) i was amazed at the effect-its gone light-to mid silver grey just like old wood, i dare say with more applications it might lighten even more, but it depends on how light it should be? C.
  10. Old Collingwood
    ^^^Thank you very much for taking a look at my build and the references you posted, i have seen the pics of the museum model before, it is basicaly what i am building except i am extending the poop deck a little further to include the mizzan mast, and putting the steps on the edge instead of through the roof. C.
  11. Old Collingwood
    All the best hamilton to you and the family, an idea for blowing of dust/fluff - you could try one of those Rocket blowers for cameras, strong yet gentle, your build is coming on beautifuly it looks realy stunning mate. C.
  12. Old Collingwood
    I have been pushing a head with my build and have finaly finished planking the lower deck, i have added a small edge strip against the forward bh, and a similar strip further back although these wont be seen they have helped to strengthen things abit, i have decided after cleaning the deck down, to leave it un-treated as it will not be seen to a great degree. Here are the current pics... C.
  13. Old Collingwood
    Thanks hamilton, i will have a look, ive been off a day or two as i have had first a virus attack on my laptop(got that fixed) then a complete windows crash, that even booting could'nt fix so i had to have a new windows instalation. C.
  14. Old Collingwood
    I have started on setting some planking on the lower deck, i have done this by creating a template then transfering to card, this i have split in two equal sections to aid placing through the bh sections, i have planked one side of the lower deck and sanded, i have decided to leave the decking a natural wood color and just treat with a plain clear mat varnish/clear cote. When i plank the upper deck i would like to replicate the bleached effect as seen on real decks, due to years of salt water holy stoning, not sure how i can lighten the deck planks that come with the kit (any ideas folks)? C.
  15. Old Collingwood
    I have just finished farring the hull bh frames, only took 10 hours of sanding - checking - sanding etc etc(talk about saw hands) anyway i think i have gotten away with out any frame fillers and all frames now look online and thier bottoms lign up with the bearding line and show a nice equal gap for the keel extension, i have also checked the reference points and sanded back the decks where they meet the frames, some small sections of the frame have a gap around the frame extrusions but these will be covered by the planking, i also achieved a nice even curve around the bow(the filler sections realy helped here). Next will be to remove the decks as they are only dry fitted, then when my paint arrives i will give the lower deck frame sections a lick of whitewash then start decking the lower deck area. C.
  16. Old Collingwood
    Absolutly Stunning what you are and have achieved with your beautiful victory, i think the victory trust would be proud to have a model like yours representing thier fine ship. Fantastic C.
  17. Old Collingwood
    Thanks for that hamilton, i see quite abit of work in the bh department, that is why i have tried to take 9/10 down as far as i can and correct the upper section more so, i have found a wondefull painting of frigates in 1720s era being built on the thames and it shows these ships had such a dramatic amount of sheer compared to alter period ships. Anyway i have continued onwards today with strengthening the hull, and helping to keep everything square and plumb by cutting and fitting lengths of balsa between the bh's, then to help with planking around the bow towards the bowspite i have fitted some strips of balsa that i will sand back to form a rounded shape. Here are the pics... C.
  18. Old Collingwood
    Brilliant work....and to work with all them lines at this scale "gulp" "help" mind you better than the 700 scale modern warship im working on aswel.... C.
  19. Old Collingwood
    I have finished bulkheading the frame and cutting out the under deck beams etc, i have done abit of a mod-con on the troubled bh's as spoken about by hamilton, my workflow here and idea was to start with the top of the keel where the bh cut outs are, my theory was to create a gentle slop towards the middle and produce a sheer, this would make correcting the 2 bh's a little less work, i also built up with a bit of balsa the difference in deck hight to keep a corresponing sheer. My next job after the keel/bh assembly is set will be to sand down and smooth edges abit, then i will give the bulkhead frames abit of shaping, then the next job on my list will be to give the inside deck sections a lick of white wash, then i will start panking the lower deck. C.
  20. Old Collingwood
    Does anyone have any advice over correct paint colors for the 1719 light frigate ships, i am tempted by off white for interior bulkheads etc, red ocre for upper deck bulwarks & fitting against them etc, flat metal black for cannons and iron work, french blue for the hull detailing near to rails, a rich pine stain for hull above whale, whale same black as above, flat white for hull from waterline and below, and gold or brass for ornaments guilt figurehead etc. What do people think. C.
  21. Old Collingwood
    I made some more progress today but also when backwards abit when i stumbled on a problem with the placing of the front bh's in relation to the the front area of the keel, there was to much keel showing with to much profile, so i took the keel off and cut back the false keel about 8mm, i also re shaped the front keel bringing it closer to the line of planking when i do it, i have also been continuing with my bh's again working from bow and stern towards the mid-ship area. Here are the pics... C.
  22. Old Collingwood
    After having a day off due to my other hobby - cameras calling me i got the chance to play with my new nikon dslr that i use for my pics on here, anyway yesterday was on with the build, i have been working with the bulkheads from both bow and stern, as i am mindful of hamiltons problems with the two miss-aligned and shaped bh's, and as i am showing a wider lower deck with part deck floor beam and knees, i have been working on 1 bh at a time then fitting/glueing and dry testing the main gundeck against the line of the bh's. I have also found that by correcting for a slope or sheer over the quarterdeck of possibly 5-10mm this equates to a real sheer in full size terms of about 2-4ft over the same area, this will meen i can file out abit of the bh/frame slot and sit the bh's slightly lower, hopefully helping to correct abit of the problem hamilton disscovered, this should look ok as i know they would have had quite a deffined slope/sheer anyway. I will continue in this form and adjust as i go and fingers crossed end up with a hull shape that is not to bad, and if anything like hamiltons i will be extremely happy. C.
  23. Old Collingwood
    Carrying on with dry-fitting stuff aswel as fitting the bulkheads, i have decided to widen the lower deck, this i started on bulkhead 4 and have cut it out to extend the planking area and also to include the floor beam knee's as shown, the other two pics show the general dry-run layout with the captain/leutenants door/window assembly(not sure if i will use this with a little re-work or make my own), and the other a general plan view showing how the quarter/forecastle/poop areas will look. I may even consider extending the decks even further down to include a hold(i know this wont be seen but it will be fun building and i will know its thier) abit like building a sub and fitting it out inside prior to sealing it up. Heres the pics... C.
  24. Old Collingwood
    Thanks jim. C.
  25. Old Collingwood
    Not at all mark, thanks for following. C,

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