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Old Collingwood

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Everything posted by Old Collingwood

  1. I have carried on with the armour for the 4inch gun bulwarks and managed to complete just one more plate, its kind of very taxing and hard work focusing under a magnifier, i find my eys go and i end up cross eyed, the wife keeps saying to me "who are you looking at when i am talking to you"... My plan as mad as it might seem is to finish off the four plates on the one side, then i will glue the paper strips down, to kind of trap the lips of the etching plates and fingers/toes and everything else you can cross, this will keep them in place as so far i have done without CA superglue, as i hate this stuff with a passion, i could tell you a story of a friend who glued his eyes shut - by accident with CA glue.... OC
  2. Despite the disaster with the hull (i am going to pretend a buch of drunken sailors painted it ) i decided to carry on with a bit of etch stuff, i am working on the armoured plating bulwarks around the 4inch guns, i cut this from the spru with a sharp knife and bended the bottom for support, i then laid a small pool of PVA glue and sat the section in it, this looks worse than it is as the PVA should dry up and mainly dissapear. Hers a pic. OC
  3. Hey there great work going on, the decking reminded me of what i had done with my wood planks on my other build, i used a self mixed solution of dropping a wire wool spongy type thing into an air tight container with vinegar, this was left for afew days, this was brushed over the wood planks and had the effect of bleaching just like holy stoning. Also with the hand rails would i be correct in thinking that they would be white metal work of uprights and middle/lower sections, and probably a wooden hand rail running the top length, i once traveled on a smaller pleasure liner and this had the same hand rail arrangement. OC
  4. I had another go at the hull today as more paint arrived in the shape of Vallejo German red brown, but after a few coats it was way way to brown and dark, and not smooth enough, so i binned that color and went over it with a more red ochre color from my Admiralty Colors range, this went on horrible full of patches and brush marks, Its no good folks i just cant brush paint the hull - i have wrecked it. Seems to be the hull and getting its Red RN color on it that is spoiling evrthing else, like i said to wife - i can do great maessing about making tiny improvements by building things, but it falls appart when i have to paint a large area I just dont use a sprayer never tried one and cant afford one to experiment with, i guess i need to see if i can get an Acrylic rattle can in the correct color :( OC
  5. Hi there, Thank you for following my build, painting by hand with a basil brush type device is all i am used to, i have never used or owned an air brush and only used a rattle can the once, on a plastic airliner and that went horribly wrong with overspray and runs galore, the hardest and most challenging section to paint is the lower hull Red area, but as i am going to paint this with a good primer that helps to self level and smooth out, at least that will be done and i will be able to concentrate on smaller masked areas on the rest of the upper hull where the two tones of grey for the camo are located. All the deck details should alos be easier to control with hand painting due to their size. Regards OC
  6. Oh, How do you get a ship in a bottle? tell the captain its got rum in it........ OC
  7. Just a quick update folks, i put a coat of Admiralty Dark Grey RN01, on the paper sections i had cut out to represent the metal deck areas that are to go under where the 4inch guns sit, this color is the standard RN color for metal deck areas, so i will contiue with it on the other sub deck sections. Oh, still waiting on my red surface primer and flat black for the boot line, i will be able to continue with the hull then OC.
  8. While i m waiting for my new paints to arrive i decised to have a look at the seperate deck sections, i have not decided yet when i can get some wood decking but i have decided to carry on as if i am getting it, so after a lot of researching different sites i have come to the conclusion that the raised plastic simulated planking would be better sanded off, also i have discovered that the areas around the 4inch guns - mid section had reinforced metal floors and painted dark sea grey, so i found a picture of the wood planking and also i did a scan of the plastic area from my model, and ended up with a few ideas. I marked out the metal area on my scanned part that was a 1:1 scale with the real plastic part, then i set about cutting this out with a sharp blade, i have done this for both sides and both are now awaiting a coat of dark sea grey, then the next stage will be to tidy up the bulwark area/shields that sit in front of the 4inch guns, and give them a couple of coats of paint before gluing the steel decking in place. Here is a pic showing what i mean. OC,
  9. Progress has stalled abit folks that first layer of my Admiralty Paints Red Ochre that i applied to the hull, started to come away it wasn't very hard even though i had left it over a whole day to dry I think i will have to try a different paint as it ju t doesn't seem solid enough, i have seen an Acrylic Vallejo surface primer in red, so possibly with a few drops of black it will do a better job? i need to search out a seller of it and purchase it before i continue with the water retention floaty type device we call a hull OC
  10. I started to mask off the boot line today with low tack blue tape, i had to cut this tape into small sections to fit in between the hull details, after completing this - that seem to take all day i let it sit then smoothed it down to get a good seal with a small sponge. I have now started hand painting the first layers of the hull red color, i have chosen to use my Red Ochre that i already had, this is close to Red Oxide and i believe quite close to RN Anti fouling paint, it looks a bit patchy at first folks but this shouls smooth and even out with more thin cooats and gentle sanding between coats - fingers crossed OC
  11. Great work their tim she is looking so authentic and true to scale, i am dreading doing all my small bits and pieces at 1/350 scale on my build, esp the 20mm orli's they are so tiny.... OC.
  12. While i am just starting out on my journey with my Warspite build i want to thank all those who h ave liked my build, and follow what i have done, i will try to keep it interesting and hopefully without to many lows . Thanks for watching OC.
  13. Hey - a great subject and in my fave old medium plastic A man walks into a Bar and goes "Ouch" it was a metal bar....... I too am trying to make plastic look like metal its a bit different from making wood look like "ermmmm" ...wood Anyway can i join in the watching please, i am rubbish in a group to shy, but if its ok i will sit i n the wings and watch. Oh yes nearly foregot - i used to build Accurate Armour resin 35scale tanks from Tiger to Warrior IFV. OC.
  14. Hi david good progress there, i can understand where you are coming from regarding the planks, i had a similar situation with a part works build, i have a build sitting in the cuboard HMS President i think? that has a surplus of planks. OC.
  15. Here is another picture from the diagram i have been worrking on it takes time because i am having to zoom into 600x and work in squares to fill in the details, i am cross referencing from different sorces at the same time, to try to get the most accurate 1944 representation of her. OC
  16. I achieved a bit more progress yesterday with the bow area, i am getting to the stage where i am quite pleased with the way it is turning out she is getting closer folks to being completed in the hull area anyway promis This morning i have also been continuing to work on my plan in Micro Paint, its coming on what do you think? OC.
  17. More primer arrived so i was able to continues with hull both forward and aft, after mixing the paint to a 50/50 mix with distilled water i came across a technique that has helped to level out the paint in a smoother manner, before applying the primer i heated up the section to be painted with a hairdryer first, and i found with a quick thin layer and the hairdryer, applied again after application, the paint was smoothing out nicely and drying quickly. I put on about 5 layers and have left it over night to harden before i give it a light sanding/wire wool keying, ready for more parimer. The idea is to get a smooth even layer that will be hard enough for me to gently improve some of the buried details with my knife, the hull will be ready then for the propper painting OC.
  18. Thanks Joe, lucklely none went on the sides just under the hull. OC
  19. Thanks Joe, i wondered if it was down to the layer of PVA i had painted over the hull? OC
  20. I foregot to mention - i have been working on a plan in Windows Paint, of how i want my build to look, here is the plan part finnished - OC
  21. Just a smal update folks - I decided to do a bit more sanding to blend those areas i had painted, well i have it back down now to near clear palstic minus the hull side bow plates they just didn't look right, yeterday i took delivery of some more Vallejo primer so i can do the - Prime/Sand/Prime/Sand dance . But what arrived that realy had my eyes popping out of my head where the turned metal barrals but - WOW are they tiny tiny little things, they are like the tinniest of baby pecsision metal work i have ever seen :o i will need a magnifying telescope to work with these as i was hoping to hold them with a pin or something down the barrals, while painting . They look superb though, oh and the 20mm Orli's i received aswell including the pe framework/shields I think my work will be cut out working on these folks - my appoligies for swearing in advance OC.
  22. More work today with a bit more sanding then smoothing with wire wool, i also decided to remove a few of the fairleads as firstly some got damaged by my heavy handed holding while sanding, and also because they are larger and set further inwards on the deck area on the real ship. Here are a few current shots that show the current status - one side is 95% primed and ready for its first camo layer minus a small amount of filling near the bow fairleads, and a small amount of primming where sanding has revealed the plastic. OC.
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