rvchima

A Question About Weathering
 
The photo of the completed model on the box shows rust surrounding every joint and opening on the deck. I've been Googling articles on how to paint a weathered finish and have seen two promising techniques.
1. Use artists' pastels ground to a powder and applied with a brush, followed with a matte finish.
2. Use  a dry brushing technique where rust-colored paint is applied sparingly with a nearly-dry brush.
 
Can anyone recommend other techniques or tutorials for making a weathered finish?

Lots of Brass Parts, 20 hours over 11 days
 

I repainted the superstructure gray since the brass deck is full of holes and the gray paint will get inside anyway. Then I glued all the photo-etched brass decking to the wooden superstructure using CA. I soldered the joints between the vertical sides and the horizontal deck.
 

I thought I was pretty good at soldering until I tried to join these edges. No matter how much I cleaned and fluxed the joints the solder just wouldn't go where I wanted it to. I ended up grinding and sanding off lots of surplus. I still have a little work to do with putty. Useful Italian word: "Stucco = putty."
 
Surprisingly, the kit did not include the brass tube for the cleats.
 

The photo-etched parts have beautiful detail.
 

The conning tower is resin with lots of little brass parts. Unfortunately the brass deck did not fit into the tower and the ladder rungs were wider than the holes in the tower, so I had to do a bit shaping and drilling.

Lots of Brass Parts, 20 hours over 11 days
 

I repainted the superstructure gray since the brass deck is full of holes and the gray paint will get inside anyway. Then I glued all the photo-etched brass decking to the wooden superstructure using CA. I soldered the joints between the vertical sides and the horizontal deck.
 

I thought I was pretty good at soldering until I tried to join these edges. No matter how much I cleaned and fluxed the joints the solder just wouldn't go where I wanted it to. I ended up grinding and sanding off lots of surplus. I still have a little work to do with putty. Useful Italian word: "Stucco = putty."
 
Surprisingly, the kit did not include the brass tube for the cleats.
 

The photo-etched parts have beautiful detail.
 

The conning tower is resin with lots of little brass parts. Unfortunately the brass deck did not fit into the tower and the ladder rungs were wider than the holes in the tower, so I had to do a bit shaping and drilling.

A Question About Weathering
 
The photo of the completed model on the box shows rust surrounding every joint and opening on the deck. I've been Googling articles on how to paint a weathered finish and have seen two promising techniques.
1. Use artists' pastels ground to a powder and applied with a brush, followed with a matte finish.
2. Use  a dry brushing technique where rust-colored paint is applied sparingly with a nearly-dry brush.
 
Can anyone recommend other techniques or tutorials for making a weathered finish?

Lots of Brass Parts, 20 hours over 11 days
 

I repainted the superstructure gray since the brass deck is full of holes and the gray paint will get inside anyway. Then I glued all the photo-etched brass decking to the wooden superstructure using CA. I soldered the joints between the vertical sides and the horizontal deck.
 

I thought I was pretty good at soldering until I tried to join these edges. No matter how much I cleaned and fluxed the joints the solder just wouldn't go where I wanted it to. I ended up grinding and sanding off lots of surplus. I still have a little work to do with putty. Useful Italian word: "Stucco = putty."
 
Surprisingly, the kit did not include the brass tube for the cleats.
 

The photo-etched parts have beautiful detail.
 

The conning tower is resin with lots of little brass parts. Unfortunately the brass deck did not fit into the tower and the ladder rungs were wider than the holes in the tower, so I had to do a bit shaping and drilling.

Lots of Brass Parts, 20 hours over 11 days
 

I repainted the superstructure gray since the brass deck is full of holes and the gray paint will get inside anyway. Then I glued all the photo-etched brass decking to the wooden superstructure using CA. I soldered the joints between the vertical sides and the horizontal deck.
 

I thought I was pretty good at soldering until I tried to join these edges. No matter how much I cleaned and fluxed the joints the solder just wouldn't go where I wanted it to. I ended up grinding and sanding off lots of surplus. I still have a little work to do with putty. Useful Italian word: "Stucco = putty."
 
Surprisingly, the kit did not include the brass tube for the cleats.
 

The photo-etched parts have beautiful detail.
 

The conning tower is resin with lots of little brass parts. Unfortunately the brass deck did not fit into the tower and the ladder rungs were wider than the holes in the tower, so I had to do a bit shaping and drilling.

A Little Progress, 7 hours over 7 days
 

I started by making a temporary stand from poplar. The kit came with nice brass pedestals. I found some bolts that fit them, drilled holes in the hull and epoxied nuts in place.
 

The laser-cut parts for the superstructure popped right out of the surrounding wood, but they didn't quite fit in the space atop the resin hull. I had to do some cutting and sanding to make them fit. The resin hull seems solid but it sands like Styrofoam and is very easy to shape.
 
And that is the end of the wood work on this model.
 

The superstructure will be covered with photo-etched parts with lots of holes, so I painted the interior black.
 

A Little Progress, 7 hours over 7 days
 

I started by making a temporary stand from poplar. The kit came with nice brass pedestals. I found some bolts that fit them, drilled holes in the hull and epoxied nuts in place.
 

The laser-cut parts for the superstructure popped right out of the surrounding wood, but they didn't quite fit in the space atop the resin hull. I had to do some cutting and sanding to make them fit. The resin hull seems solid but it sands like Styrofoam and is very easy to shape.
 
And that is the end of the wood work on this model.
 

The superstructure will be covered with photo-etched parts with lots of holes, so I painted the interior black.
 

A Little Progress, 7 hours over 7 days
 

I started by making a temporary stand from poplar. The kit came with nice brass pedestals. I found some bolts that fit them, drilled holes in the hull and epoxied nuts in place.
 

The laser-cut parts for the superstructure popped right out of the surrounding wood, but they didn't quite fit in the space atop the resin hull. I had to do some cutting and sanding to make them fit. The resin hull seems solid but it sands like Styrofoam and is very easy to shape.
 
And that is the end of the wood work on this model.
 

The superstructure will be covered with photo-etched parts with lots of holes, so I painted the interior black.
 

A Little Progress, 7 hours over 7 days
 

I started by making a temporary stand from poplar. The kit came with nice brass pedestals. I found some bolts that fit them, drilled holes in the hull and epoxied nuts in place.
 

The laser-cut parts for the superstructure popped right out of the surrounding wood, but they didn't quite fit in the space atop the resin hull. I had to do some cutting and sanding to make them fit. The resin hull seems solid but it sands like Styrofoam and is very easy to shape.
 
And that is the end of the wood work on this model.
 

The superstructure will be covered with photo-etched parts with lots of holes, so I painted the interior black.
 

A Little Progress, 7 hours over 7 days
 

I started by making a temporary stand from poplar. The kit came with nice brass pedestals. I found some bolts that fit them, drilled holes in the hull and epoxied nuts in place.
 

The laser-cut parts for the superstructure popped right out of the surrounding wood, but they didn't quite fit in the space atop the resin hull. I had to do some cutting and sanding to make them fit. The resin hull seems solid but it sands like Styrofoam and is very easy to shape.
 
And that is the end of the wood work on this model.
 

The superstructure will be covered with photo-etched parts with lots of holes, so I painted the interior black.
 

A Little Progress, 7 hours over 7 days
 

I started by making a temporary stand from poplar. The kit came with nice brass pedestals. I found some bolts that fit them, drilled holes in the hull and epoxied nuts in place.
 

The laser-cut parts for the superstructure popped right out of the surrounding wood, but they didn't quite fit in the space atop the resin hull. I had to do some cutting and sanding to make them fit. The resin hull seems solid but it sands like Styrofoam and is very easy to shape.
 
And that is the end of the wood work on this model.
 

The superstructure will be covered with photo-etched parts with lots of holes, so I painted the interior black.
 

Amati U-Boat 47 type VIIB

After building the Syren I didn't want any more rigging. After building the Arno XI Ferrari hydroplane I didn't want any more brass nails in the deck. After building the Anteo harbour tug I didn't want another double-planked hull. What to build next??? A submarine!
 
Amati offers an attractive kit of a German U-boat from 1939. You can get it for £225.00 from westbourne-model.co.uk, but I found one on eBay for much less. I've had the kit for 6 months and am finally getting started.
 
What's in the Box

The meter long box has two divided plastic bins on the sides and one large area in the center for flat materials. The bottom contains a cast resin hull of the submarine.
 

The full-sized plans are about 0.7m x 1 m, and are all in Italian. The hull seems to be two hollow pieces glued together, but I can't find obvious seams. Alas, there are no rivets, panel lines, or other details molded in the hull.
 

There is one sheet of laser-cut plywood parts used to build up the superstructure of the deck. There is also a heavy cardboard sheet, apparently used to identify the plywood parts.
 

There is also a large sheet of photo-etched brass parts used to make all the of the detail on the deck. It seems to be beautifully detailed.
 

One parts bin contains a resin cast conning tower, dive planes, and some miscellaneous small parts. The kit does contain two turned brass mounting pedestals but no wood base.
 

The other parts bin has a decal, and a nice cast sailor and anchor. The props and mounting hardware are, disappointingly,  plastic.
 


The instructions are 16 pages long and are written in Italian. But like Lego instructions they are mostly pictures, so I don't think they will be too hard to follow. The English translation is about 1.5 pages long.
 
I'll be starting on this after the holidays. Stay tuned for more.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A Little Progress, 7 hours over 7 days
 

I started by making a temporary stand from poplar. The kit came with nice brass pedestals. I found some bolts that fit them, drilled holes in the hull and epoxied nuts in place.
 

The laser-cut parts for the superstructure popped right out of the surrounding wood, but they didn't quite fit in the space atop the resin hull. I had to do some cutting and sanding to make them fit. The resin hull seems solid but it sands like Styrofoam and is very easy to shape.
 
And that is the end of the wood work on this model.
 

The superstructure will be covered with photo-etched parts with lots of holes, so I painted the interior black.
 

A Little Progress, 7 hours over 7 days
 

I started by making a temporary stand from poplar. The kit came with nice brass pedestals. I found some bolts that fit them, drilled holes in the hull and epoxied nuts in place.
 

The laser-cut parts for the superstructure popped right out of the surrounding wood, but they didn't quite fit in the space atop the resin hull. I had to do some cutting and sanding to make them fit. The resin hull seems solid but it sands like Styrofoam and is very easy to shape.
 
And that is the end of the wood work on this model.
 

The superstructure will be covered with photo-etched parts with lots of holes, so I painted the interior black.
 

A Little Progress, 7 hours over 7 days
 

I started by making a temporary stand from poplar. The kit came with nice brass pedestals. I found some bolts that fit them, drilled holes in the hull and epoxied nuts in place.
 

The laser-cut parts for the superstructure popped right out of the surrounding wood, but they didn't quite fit in the space atop the resin hull. I had to do some cutting and sanding to make them fit. The resin hull seems solid but it sands like Styrofoam and is very easy to shape.
 
And that is the end of the wood work on this model.
 

The superstructure will be covered with photo-etched parts with lots of holes, so I painted the interior black.
 

A Little Progress, 7 hours over 7 days
 

I started by making a temporary stand from poplar. The kit came with nice brass pedestals. I found some bolts that fit them, drilled holes in the hull and epoxied nuts in place.
 

The laser-cut parts for the superstructure popped right out of the surrounding wood, but they didn't quite fit in the space atop the resin hull. I had to do some cutting and sanding to make them fit. The resin hull seems solid but it sands like Styrofoam and is very easy to shape.
 
And that is the end of the wood work on this model.
 

The superstructure will be covered with photo-etched parts with lots of holes, so I painted the interior black.
 

A Little Progress, 7 hours over 7 days
 

I started by making a temporary stand from poplar. The kit came with nice brass pedestals. I found some bolts that fit them, drilled holes in the hull and epoxied nuts in place.
 

The laser-cut parts for the superstructure popped right out of the surrounding wood, but they didn't quite fit in the space atop the resin hull. I had to do some cutting and sanding to make them fit. The resin hull seems solid but it sands like Styrofoam and is very easy to shape.
 
And that is the end of the wood work on this model.
 

The superstructure will be covered with photo-etched parts with lots of holes, so I painted the interior black.
 

A Little Progress, 7 hours over 7 days
 

I started by making a temporary stand from poplar. The kit came with nice brass pedestals. I found some bolts that fit them, drilled holes in the hull and epoxied nuts in place.
 

The laser-cut parts for the superstructure popped right out of the surrounding wood, but they didn't quite fit in the space atop the resin hull. I had to do some cutting and sanding to make them fit. The resin hull seems solid but it sands like Styrofoam and is very easy to shape.
 
And that is the end of the wood work on this model.
 

The superstructure will be covered with photo-etched parts with lots of holes, so I painted the interior black.
 

Amati U-Boat 47 type VIIB

After building the Syren I didn't want any more rigging. After building the Arno XI Ferrari hydroplane I didn't want any more brass nails in the deck. After building the Anteo harbour tug I didn't want another double-planked hull. What to build next??? A submarine!
 
Amati offers an attractive kit of a German U-boat from 1939. You can get it for £225.00 from westbourne-model.co.uk, but I found one on eBay for much less. I've had the kit for 6 months and am finally getting started.
 
What's in the Box

The meter long box has two divided plastic bins on the sides and one large area in the center for flat materials. The bottom contains a cast resin hull of the submarine.
 

The full-sized plans are about 0.7m x 1 m, and are all in Italian. The hull seems to be two hollow pieces glued together, but I can't find obvious seams. Alas, there are no rivets, panel lines, or other details molded in the hull.
 

There is one sheet of laser-cut plywood parts used to build up the superstructure of the deck. There is also a heavy cardboard sheet, apparently used to identify the plywood parts.
 

There is also a large sheet of photo-etched brass parts used to make all the of the detail on the deck. It seems to be beautifully detailed.
 

One parts bin contains a resin cast conning tower, dive planes, and some miscellaneous small parts. The kit does contain two turned brass mounting pedestals but no wood base.
 

The other parts bin has a decal, and a nice cast sailor and anchor. The props and mounting hardware are, disappointingly,  plastic.
 


The instructions are 16 pages long and are written in Italian. But like Lego instructions they are mostly pictures, so I don't think they will be too hard to follow. The English translation is about 1.5 pages long.
 
I'll be starting on this after the holidays. Stay tuned for more.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Amati U-Boat 47 type VIIB

After building the Syren I didn't want any more rigging. After building the Arno XI Ferrari hydroplane I didn't want any more brass nails in the deck. After building the Anteo harbour tug I didn't want another double-planked hull. What to build next??? A submarine!
 
Amati offers an attractive kit of a German U-boat from 1939. You can get it for £225.00 from westbourne-model.co.uk, but I found one on eBay for much less. I've had the kit for 6 months and am finally getting started.
 
What's in the Box

The meter long box has two divided plastic bins on the sides and one large area in the center for flat materials. The bottom contains a cast resin hull of the submarine.
 

The full-sized plans are about 0.7m x 1 m, and are all in Italian. The hull seems to be two hollow pieces glued together, but I can't find obvious seams. Alas, there are no rivets, panel lines, or other details molded in the hull.
 

There is one sheet of laser-cut plywood parts used to build up the superstructure of the deck. There is also a heavy cardboard sheet, apparently used to identify the plywood parts.
 

There is also a large sheet of photo-etched brass parts used to make all the of the detail on the deck. It seems to be beautifully detailed.
 

One parts bin contains a resin cast conning tower, dive planes, and some miscellaneous small parts. The kit does contain two turned brass mounting pedestals but no wood base.
 

The other parts bin has a decal, and a nice cast sailor and anchor. The props and mounting hardware are, disappointingly,  plastic.
 


The instructions are 16 pages long and are written in Italian. But like Lego instructions they are mostly pictures, so I don't think they will be too hard to follow. The English translation is about 1.5 pages long.
 
I'll be starting on this after the holidays. Stay tuned for more.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Amati U-Boat 47 type VIIB

After building the Syren I didn't want any more rigging. After building the Arno XI Ferrari hydroplane I didn't want any more brass nails in the deck. After building the Anteo harbour tug I didn't want another double-planked hull. What to build next??? A submarine!
 
Amati offers an attractive kit of a German U-boat from 1939. You can get it for £225.00 from westbourne-model.co.uk, but I found one on eBay for much less. I've had the kit for 6 months and am finally getting started.
 
What's in the Box

The meter long box has two divided plastic bins on the sides and one large area in the center for flat materials. The bottom contains a cast resin hull of the submarine.
 

The full-sized plans are about 0.7m x 1 m, and are all in Italian. The hull seems to be two hollow pieces glued together, but I can't find obvious seams. Alas, there are no rivets, panel lines, or other details molded in the hull.
 

There is one sheet of laser-cut plywood parts used to build up the superstructure of the deck. There is also a heavy cardboard sheet, apparently used to identify the plywood parts.
 

There is also a large sheet of photo-etched brass parts used to make all the of the detail on the deck. It seems to be beautifully detailed.
 

One parts bin contains a resin cast conning tower, dive planes, and some miscellaneous small parts. The kit does contain two turned brass mounting pedestals but no wood base.
 

The other parts bin has a decal, and a nice cast sailor and anchor. The props and mounting hardware are, disappointingly,  plastic.
 


The instructions are 16 pages long and are written in Italian. But like Lego instructions they are mostly pictures, so I don't think they will be too hard to follow. The English translation is about 1.5 pages long.
 
I'll be starting on this after the holidays. Stay tuned for more.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Amati U-Boat 47 type VIIB

After building the Syren I didn't want any more rigging. After building the Arno XI Ferrari hydroplane I didn't want any more brass nails in the deck. After building the Anteo harbour tug I didn't want another double-planked hull. What to build next??? A submarine!
 
Amati offers an attractive kit of a German U-boat from 1939. You can get it for £225.00 from westbourne-model.co.uk, but I found one on eBay for much less. I've had the kit for 6 months and am finally getting started.
 
What's in the Box

The meter long box has two divided plastic bins on the sides and one large area in the center for flat materials. The bottom contains a cast resin hull of the submarine.
 

The full-sized plans are about 0.7m x 1 m, and are all in Italian. The hull seems to be two hollow pieces glued together, but I can't find obvious seams. Alas, there are no rivets, panel lines, or other details molded in the hull.
 

There is one sheet of laser-cut plywood parts used to build up the superstructure of the deck. There is also a heavy cardboard sheet, apparently used to identify the plywood parts.
 

There is also a large sheet of photo-etched brass parts used to make all the of the detail on the deck. It seems to be beautifully detailed.
 

One parts bin contains a resin cast conning tower, dive planes, and some miscellaneous small parts. The kit does contain two turned brass mounting pedestals but no wood base.
 

The other parts bin has a decal, and a nice cast sailor and anchor. The props and mounting hardware are, disappointingly,  plastic.
 


The instructions are 16 pages long and are written in Italian. But like Lego instructions they are mostly pictures, so I don't think they will be too hard to follow. The English translation is about 1.5 pages long.
 
I'll be starting on this after the holidays. Stay tuned for more.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Amati U-Boat 47 type VIIB

After building the Syren I didn't want any more rigging. After building the Arno XI Ferrari hydroplane I didn't want any more brass nails in the deck. After building the Anteo harbour tug I didn't want another double-planked hull. What to build next??? A submarine!
 
Amati offers an attractive kit of a German U-boat from 1939. You can get it for £225.00 from westbourne-model.co.uk, but I found one on eBay for much less. I've had the kit for 6 months and am finally getting started.
 
What's in the Box

The meter long box has two divided plastic bins on the sides and one large area in the center for flat materials. The bottom contains a cast resin hull of the submarine.
 

The full-sized plans are about 0.7m x 1 m, and are all in Italian. The hull seems to be two hollow pieces glued together, but I can't find obvious seams. Alas, there are no rivets, panel lines, or other details molded in the hull.
 

There is one sheet of laser-cut plywood parts used to build up the superstructure of the deck. There is also a heavy cardboard sheet, apparently used to identify the plywood parts.
 

There is also a large sheet of photo-etched brass parts used to make all the of the detail on the deck. It seems to be beautifully detailed.
 

One parts bin contains a resin cast conning tower, dive planes, and some miscellaneous small parts. The kit does contain two turned brass mounting pedestals but no wood base.
 

The other parts bin has a decal, and a nice cast sailor and anchor. The props and mounting hardware are, disappointingly,  plastic.
 


The instructions are 16 pages long and are written in Italian. But like Lego instructions they are mostly pictures, so I don't think they will be too hard to follow. The English translation is about 1.5 pages long.
 
I'll be starting on this after the holidays. Stay tuned for more.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Amati U-Boat 47 type VIIB

After building the Syren I didn't want any more rigging. After building the Arno XI Ferrari hydroplane I didn't want any more brass nails in the deck. After building the Anteo harbour tug I didn't want another double-planked hull. What to build next??? A submarine!
 
Amati offers an attractive kit of a German U-boat from 1939. You can get it for £225.00 from westbourne-model.co.uk, but I found one on eBay for much less. I've had the kit for 6 months and am finally getting started.
 
What's in the Box

The meter long box has two divided plastic bins on the sides and one large area in the center for flat materials. The bottom contains a cast resin hull of the submarine.
 

The full-sized plans are about 0.7m x 1 m, and are all in Italian. The hull seems to be two hollow pieces glued together, but I can't find obvious seams. Alas, there are no rivets, panel lines, or other details molded in the hull.
 

There is one sheet of laser-cut plywood parts used to build up the superstructure of the deck. There is also a heavy cardboard sheet, apparently used to identify the plywood parts.
 

There is also a large sheet of photo-etched brass parts used to make all the of the detail on the deck. It seems to be beautifully detailed.
 

One parts bin contains a resin cast conning tower, dive planes, and some miscellaneous small parts. The kit does contain two turned brass mounting pedestals but no wood base.
 

The other parts bin has a decal, and a nice cast sailor and anchor. The props and mounting hardware are, disappointingly,  plastic.
 


The instructions are 16 pages long and are written in Italian. But like Lego instructions they are mostly pictures, so I don't think they will be too hard to follow. The English translation is about 1.5 pages long.
 
I'll be starting on this after the holidays. Stay tuned for more.