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RMC
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RMC got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
Alan: this is just superb work.
Bob (rmc)
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RMC got a reaction from Canute in HMS Bellerophon 1786 by AON – scale 1:64 – 74-gun 3rd Rate Man of War - Arrogant-Class
Alan: this is just superb work.
Bob (rmc)
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RMC got a reaction from jwvolz in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
While doing my best to avoid tying ratlines I finished off the hand ropes on the bowsprit. I was concerned to get the same tension on both ropes and came up with the following solution. I'm sure it has occurred to others,but perhaps this may help.
First a loop was tied to the thread that would hang down from the fore stay.
Thread was then tied (two half hitches) to one of the hand ropes and threaded through the loop. It was then tied to the other rope. The hanging thread was then tied to the fore stay providing the appropriate tension to both the hand ropes. The loop enables the adjustment of the tension of the thread so that it is the same for both hand ropes.
On the painful subject of ratlines, here is progess on the fore topmast shrouds.
The top gallant shrouds shrouds are also in the works. I have fitted the shrouds to the fore top gallant mast (this was done off the model). I intend to drop them through the holes provided in the cross trees, and to finally make them off below the dead eyes on the tops. (The top gallant mast in the following photos is dry-fitted.)
Is there a better way of doing all of this? Suggestions very welcome.
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RMC got a reaction from dgbot in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
While doing my best to avoid tying ratlines I finished off the hand ropes on the bowsprit. I was concerned to get the same tension on both ropes and came up with the following solution. I'm sure it has occurred to others,but perhaps this may help.
First a loop was tied to the thread that would hang down from the fore stay.
Thread was then tied (two half hitches) to one of the hand ropes and threaded through the loop. It was then tied to the other rope. The hanging thread was then tied to the fore stay providing the appropriate tension to both the hand ropes. The loop enables the adjustment of the tension of the thread so that it is the same for both hand ropes.
On the painful subject of ratlines, here is progess on the fore topmast shrouds.
The top gallant shrouds shrouds are also in the works. I have fitted the shrouds to the fore top gallant mast (this was done off the model). I intend to drop them through the holes provided in the cross trees, and to finally make them off below the dead eyes on the tops. (The top gallant mast in the following photos is dry-fitted.)
Is there a better way of doing all of this? Suggestions very welcome.
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RMC got a reaction from WackoWolf in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
Do you mean parts 99, 100 and 101 - the forecastle capping rails? If so, they are on 1.5mm ply sheet 2412, the one with the stern facia for Elephant/ Bellerophon.
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RMC got a reaction from ccoyle in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
While doing my best to avoid tying ratlines I finished off the hand ropes on the bowsprit. I was concerned to get the same tension on both ropes and came up with the following solution. I'm sure it has occurred to others,but perhaps this may help.
First a loop was tied to the thread that would hang down from the fore stay.
Thread was then tied (two half hitches) to one of the hand ropes and threaded through the loop. It was then tied to the other rope. The hanging thread was then tied to the fore stay providing the appropriate tension to both the hand ropes. The loop enables the adjustment of the tension of the thread so that it is the same for both hand ropes.
On the painful subject of ratlines, here is progess on the fore topmast shrouds.
The top gallant shrouds shrouds are also in the works. I have fitted the shrouds to the fore top gallant mast (this was done off the model). I intend to drop them through the holes provided in the cross trees, and to finally make them off below the dead eyes on the tops. (The top gallant mast in the following photos is dry-fitted.)
Is there a better way of doing all of this? Suggestions very welcome.
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RMC got a reaction from mort stoll in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
While doing my best to avoid tying ratlines I finished off the hand ropes on the bowsprit. I was concerned to get the same tension on both ropes and came up with the following solution. I'm sure it has occurred to others,but perhaps this may help.
First a loop was tied to the thread that would hang down from the fore stay.
Thread was then tied (two half hitches) to one of the hand ropes and threaded through the loop. It was then tied to the other rope. The hanging thread was then tied to the fore stay providing the appropriate tension to both the hand ropes. The loop enables the adjustment of the tension of the thread so that it is the same for both hand ropes.
On the painful subject of ratlines, here is progess on the fore topmast shrouds.
The top gallant shrouds shrouds are also in the works. I have fitted the shrouds to the fore top gallant mast (this was done off the model). I intend to drop them through the holes provided in the cross trees, and to finally make them off below the dead eyes on the tops. (The top gallant mast in the following photos is dry-fitted.)
Is there a better way of doing all of this? Suggestions very welcome.
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RMC got a reaction from AON in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
While doing my best to avoid tying ratlines I finished off the hand ropes on the bowsprit. I was concerned to get the same tension on both ropes and came up with the following solution. I'm sure it has occurred to others,but perhaps this may help.
First a loop was tied to the thread that would hang down from the fore stay.
Thread was then tied (two half hitches) to one of the hand ropes and threaded through the loop. It was then tied to the other rope. The hanging thread was then tied to the fore stay providing the appropriate tension to both the hand ropes. The loop enables the adjustment of the tension of the thread so that it is the same for both hand ropes.
On the painful subject of ratlines, here is progess on the fore topmast shrouds.
The top gallant shrouds shrouds are also in the works. I have fitted the shrouds to the fore top gallant mast (this was done off the model). I intend to drop them through the holes provided in the cross trees, and to finally make them off below the dead eyes on the tops. (The top gallant mast in the following photos is dry-fitted.)
Is there a better way of doing all of this? Suggestions very welcome.
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RMC got a reaction from Jeff-E in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
Thanks very much Jeff - it solves the problem for me.
Alan: I looked at the illustration in Petersson but it isn't very clear - and I had some conflicting advice.
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RMC got a reaction from kier in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
Progress has been made on the topmast shrouds. I have gradually found a fairly easy way to space the dead eyes which had caused me quite a bit of trouble. The following may help others who have also found difficulty.
First, often when I inserted brass wire spacers through the upper holes in the dead eyes, the wire would fall out at the crucial time. It's very frustrating. Now I use plastic covering of copper electrical wire as a stopper. It fits perfectly and solves that problem.
Second, in making any adjustments, the deadeye tends to rotate, so that the holes are in the wrong position. A piece of wire bent so that it will go through the two lower holes enables you to twist the deadeye to the correct position. Once that is done I use a a pair of spring tweezers to pinch the two shrouds above the deadeye ready to knot them together.
Incidentally, the quality of many the deadeyes supplied is quite poor. The holes are all over the place: about a quarter are unusable: and about half are just adequate.
Here is a set ready to take the lanyards. (I have made slight adjustments to these since taking the photo.)
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RMC got a reaction from coxswain in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
The cross trees are now fitted. The photo shows the top gallant masts dry-fitted. The sheaves and the blocks are fitted to the top masts where necessary, and this was a mistake. The shrouds have to be fitted over the cross trees and the sheaves and the blocks already fitted make things difficult. Moreover the sheaves were fitted accurately according to the plans, which does not leave enough room to fit the shrouds and the stays. Had I shifted the sheaves up about 3mm (possible to do) there really wouldn't have been a problem.
This is progress to date. The more I see how large the it is, the more I have no idea what to do with the damn thing when (if) it's finished.
Below are a couple of the cross trees fitted with sheaves and blocks. The gap between the bottom of the sheaves and the cross trees is 3 or 4mm. Unfortunately six loops of shrouds (1mm thread is specified) have to fit there, as well as the stays. I am using fractionally thinner Syren thread (0.86mm but I am serving it - which will make it close enough to 1mm. I guess it will turn out in the end.
There is a bit of good news though - the ratlines for the lower masts are finished.
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RMC got a reaction from coxswain in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
I have made a fair amount of progress oveer the last week or two (the weather has been horrible - winter is finally here).
The topmasts have finally been fixed.
The hand ropes on the bowsprit have been attached. There was a slight trauma here as I had provided only two eyes for the bow timber heads. It seems I should have provided three - though I haven't found three anywhere on the plans. Despite appearances the ropes are not too taught.
I then got a little carried away in fitting netting (the tulle used for the hammock netting was dyed black) to the safety railing on the tops. After all you can't have sailors suing the Admiralyy for failing to provide a safe working environment. It seemed like a good idea at the time. Once I had done one I thought I may as well do the remaining two, but I don't think it was all worth the effort. For those who are also into self-inflicted pain, here is the method I used.
A guide was drawn with the verticals spaced by the holes provided on the tops. I used a pair of dividers to obtain the spacing between the holes.
A piece of 3x1mm strip was inserted into the notches provided in the posts. The Tamiya tape shown makes the strip a little thicker and enables the strip to stay temporarily fixed in the notches.
This is the result for the fore top. Since the photos below, some touching up has been done and it has turned out fairly well.
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RMC got a reaction from Dubz in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
Progress has been made on the top mizzen shrouds. The dead eyes are quite small, and as a consequence the job has proven to be rather fiddly. The last set of lanyards refused to behave and it took me as long to tie them off as it did the other three sets combined. Once that was done, one of the other sets of shrouds became unacceptably limp and needed to be redone. I did not rejoice. Incidentally, the only way to make the Syren thread stay in place while tying the lanyards is to make it soaking wet.
Here are some of the steps towards completion.
This looks a bit like a dog's breakfast, but it does work.
I have finally tied off the lanyards and am waiting for the glue to dry on the knots.
While waiting, I decided to see if I could do anything to improve on the stun sail boom irons provided in the kit. Like Arthur (aew) I think they are not really satisfactory. Unlike Arthur, soldering is a completely alien concept to me. I bought a length of 2mm brass strip to play with. Here are the results. Nothing has yet been glued, so comments/suggestions are very welcome.
This is one of the irons from the kit. The hole for the boom appears to be far too large. (The yard has not yet been touched up.)
This is one of my experiments. I used a pair of round nosed pliers, a hand held vise, and a fairly fine file.
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RMC got a reaction from coxswain in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
The stun sail boom irons look as if they will come out surprisingly well. I have only done the irons for the main yard so far, but so far so good. (This is, of course, the kiss of death.) I have put dummy hinges on as Arthur suggested, following as best I can the illustration shown in Petersson.
I first blackened the brass then used gel CA to stick on the hinges for both irons (copper electrical wire (approx.0.75mm)) and for the inboard irons a clasp (a flat piece of brass strip recovered from waste from the kit's brass etchings). It wasn't possible to fit a clasp to the outboard irons.
In gluing the fittings to the irons it was best to cut off a piece of wire/strip longer than necessary - it makes it easier to position it. Then once the glue is set, cut off the surplus.
Here is how they turned out.
PS: I would be grateful for advice regarding the shrouds mentioned in my previous post.
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RMC got a reaction from Jeff-E in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
Help needed - top gallant shrouds.
I am having difficulty finding the appropriate way to attach the shrouds to the top gallant masts.
One source suggests they are tied on using clove hitches which seems odd - or are they attached in the same way as all the other shrouds?
An added problem is that the holes provided for the shrouds in the cross trees are too small for the required 0.5mm thread. I did not have the foresight to check before mounting the cross trees to the masts. The Syren thread I am using is supposed to be 0.45mm and that did not fit through either. All of this necessitated enlarging the holes to 0.6mm while perched up a small ladder so that I could see what I was doing. This is not recommended.
For those not at this stage - check the holes in the cross trees BEFORE you attach them to the masts!
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RMC got a reaction from Jeff-E in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
The stun sail boom irons look as if they will come out surprisingly well. I have only done the irons for the main yard so far, but so far so good. (This is, of course, the kiss of death.) I have put dummy hinges on as Arthur suggested, following as best I can the illustration shown in Petersson.
I first blackened the brass then used gel CA to stick on the hinges for both irons (copper electrical wire (approx.0.75mm)) and for the inboard irons a clasp (a flat piece of brass strip recovered from waste from the kit's brass etchings). It wasn't possible to fit a clasp to the outboard irons.
In gluing the fittings to the irons it was best to cut off a piece of wire/strip longer than necessary - it makes it easier to position it. Then once the glue is set, cut off the surplus.
Here is how they turned out.
PS: I would be grateful for advice regarding the shrouds mentioned in my previous post.
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RMC got a reaction from Bettina in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
The stun sail boom irons look as if they will come out surprisingly well. I have only done the irons for the main yard so far, but so far so good. (This is, of course, the kiss of death.) I have put dummy hinges on as Arthur suggested, following as best I can the illustration shown in Petersson.
I first blackened the brass then used gel CA to stick on the hinges for both irons (copper electrical wire (approx.0.75mm)) and for the inboard irons a clasp (a flat piece of brass strip recovered from waste from the kit's brass etchings). It wasn't possible to fit a clasp to the outboard irons.
In gluing the fittings to the irons it was best to cut off a piece of wire/strip longer than necessary - it makes it easier to position it. Then once the glue is set, cut off the surplus.
Here is how they turned out.
PS: I would be grateful for advice regarding the shrouds mentioned in my previous post.
-
RMC got a reaction from Bettina in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
Help needed - top gallant shrouds.
I am having difficulty finding the appropriate way to attach the shrouds to the top gallant masts.
One source suggests they are tied on using clove hitches which seems odd - or are they attached in the same way as all the other shrouds?
An added problem is that the holes provided for the shrouds in the cross trees are too small for the required 0.5mm thread. I did not have the foresight to check before mounting the cross trees to the masts. The Syren thread I am using is supposed to be 0.45mm and that did not fit through either. All of this necessitated enlarging the holes to 0.6mm while perched up a small ladder so that I could see what I was doing. This is not recommended.
For those not at this stage - check the holes in the cross trees BEFORE you attach them to the masts!
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RMC got a reaction from Bettina in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
Progress has been made on the top mizzen shrouds. The dead eyes are quite small, and as a consequence the job has proven to be rather fiddly. The last set of lanyards refused to behave and it took me as long to tie them off as it did the other three sets combined. Once that was done, one of the other sets of shrouds became unacceptably limp and needed to be redone. I did not rejoice. Incidentally, the only way to make the Syren thread stay in place while tying the lanyards is to make it soaking wet.
Here are some of the steps towards completion.
This looks a bit like a dog's breakfast, but it does work.
I have finally tied off the lanyards and am waiting for the glue to dry on the knots.
While waiting, I decided to see if I could do anything to improve on the stun sail boom irons provided in the kit. Like Arthur (aew) I think they are not really satisfactory. Unlike Arthur, soldering is a completely alien concept to me. I bought a length of 2mm brass strip to play with. Here are the results. Nothing has yet been glued, so comments/suggestions are very welcome.
This is one of the irons from the kit. The hole for the boom appears to be far too large. (The yard has not yet been touched up.)
This is one of my experiments. I used a pair of round nosed pliers, a hand held vise, and a fairly fine file.
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RMC got a reaction from Bettina in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
The lanyards for the fore topmast deadeyes are now tied off. They have come out fairly well.
The shrouds for the main topmast are complete. I decided that I would cut off the thread for the ten lanyards all in one go. This was not a good idea. Somehow I stuffed up the measurement and cut them all off about 15mm too short. I still may be able to use them, but tying them off will not be easy at best. The extra 15mill would make all the difference. I am loath to discard the thread as I am running a little low on that particular Syren thread and getting some more will take 2 or 3 weeks.
Here are the main topmast shrouds in the works.
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RMC got a reaction from Bettina in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
The lanyards for the deadeyes on the fore topmast are now essentially done. I will not finally tie them off for a few days to let every thing settle down. As well,some adjustments may be needed once the shrouds for the main and mizzen topmasts are done. While quite time-consuming, the process has gone smoothly. The method described in my previous post has worked well, though in writing this of course, I'm asking for trouble.
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RMC got a reaction from coxswain in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
Progress has been made on the topmast shrouds. I have gradually found a fairly easy way to space the dead eyes which had caused me quite a bit of trouble. The following may help others who have also found difficulty.
First, often when I inserted brass wire spacers through the upper holes in the dead eyes, the wire would fall out at the crucial time. It's very frustrating. Now I use plastic covering of copper electrical wire as a stopper. It fits perfectly and solves that problem.
Second, in making any adjustments, the deadeye tends to rotate, so that the holes are in the wrong position. A piece of wire bent so that it will go through the two lower holes enables you to twist the deadeye to the correct position. Once that is done I use a a pair of spring tweezers to pinch the two shrouds above the deadeye ready to knot them together.
Incidentally, the quality of many the deadeyes supplied is quite poor. The holes are all over the place: about a quarter are unusable: and about half are just adequate.
Here is a set ready to take the lanyards. (I have made slight adjustments to these since taking the photo.)
-
RMC got a reaction from Bettina in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
The cross trees are now fitted. The photo shows the top gallant masts dry-fitted. The sheaves and the blocks are fitted to the top masts where necessary, and this was a mistake. The shrouds have to be fitted over the cross trees and the sheaves and the blocks already fitted make things difficult. Moreover the sheaves were fitted accurately according to the plans, which does not leave enough room to fit the shrouds and the stays. Had I shifted the sheaves up about 3mm (possible to do) there really wouldn't have been a problem.
This is progress to date. The more I see how large the it is, the more I have no idea what to do with the damn thing when (if) it's finished.
Below are a couple of the cross trees fitted with sheaves and blocks. The gap between the bottom of the sheaves and the cross trees is 3 or 4mm. Unfortunately six loops of shrouds (1mm thread is specified) have to fit there, as well as the stays. I am using fractionally thinner Syren thread (0.86mm but I am serving it - which will make it close enough to 1mm. I guess it will turn out in the end.
There is a bit of good news though - the ratlines for the lower masts are finished.
-
RMC got a reaction from Bettina in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
I have made a fair amount of progress oveer the last week or two (the weather has been horrible - winter is finally here).
The topmasts have finally been fixed.
The hand ropes on the bowsprit have been attached. There was a slight trauma here as I had provided only two eyes for the bow timber heads. It seems I should have provided three - though I haven't found three anywhere on the plans. Despite appearances the ropes are not too taught.
I then got a little carried away in fitting netting (the tulle used for the hammock netting was dyed black) to the safety railing on the tops. After all you can't have sailors suing the Admiralyy for failing to provide a safe working environment. It seemed like a good idea at the time. Once I had done one I thought I may as well do the remaining two, but I don't think it was all worth the effort. For those who are also into self-inflicted pain, here is the method I used.
A guide was drawn with the verticals spaced by the holes provided on the tops. I used a pair of dividers to obtain the spacing between the holes.
A piece of 3x1mm strip was inserted into the notches provided in the posts. The Tamiya tape shown makes the strip a little thicker and enables the strip to stay temporarily fixed in the notches.
This is the result for the fore top. Since the photos below, some touching up has been done and it has turned out fairly well.
-
RMC got a reaction from AON in HMS Vanguard by RMC - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models - scale 1:72
The stun sail boom irons look as if they will come out surprisingly well. I have only done the irons for the main yard so far, but so far so good. (This is, of course, the kiss of death.) I have put dummy hinges on as Arthur suggested, following as best I can the illustration shown in Petersson.
I first blackened the brass then used gel CA to stick on the hinges for both irons (copper electrical wire (approx.0.75mm)) and for the inboard irons a clasp (a flat piece of brass strip recovered from waste from the kit's brass etchings). It wasn't possible to fit a clasp to the outboard irons.
In gluing the fittings to the irons it was best to cut off a piece of wire/strip longer than necessary - it makes it easier to position it. Then once the glue is set, cut off the surplus.
Here is how they turned out.
PS: I would be grateful for advice regarding the shrouds mentioned in my previous post.
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